Classifications of hair color

The Trotter collection: A review of Mildred Trotter's hair research and an update for studies of human variation

OBJECTIVES

Mildred Trotter was an anatomist and physical anthropologist whose studies on hair morphology, growth, somatic distribution, and trait relationships to age and ethnogeographic population were foundational to the field of microscopical hair analysis. The collection of human hair samples she assembled for her research has been an underutilized resource for studies on human hair variation. We applied updated methods and reviewed Trotter's original data to reassess the relationship hair traits have to diverse population labels.

METHODS

Hair form and pigmentation patterns were measured from a subset of the hair samples accumulated by Trotter and we compared our data to Trotter's original results. Variability in hair traits were tested within individuals, within populations, and among ethnogeographic groups.

RESULTS

Measured hair cross-section dimensions and melanosome density and distribution revealed substantial variability within individuals and ethnogeographic populations. Hair traits were found to not be distinctly separable by ancestry but instead showed continuous variation across human populations. Trotter's measurements were precise and the dataset she compiled remains valid, though the conclusions should be reviewed in light of our current understanding of human variation.

DISCUSSION

Our findings support moving away from categorical ancestry classifications and eliminating the use of outdated racial typologies in favor of more descriptive trait analysis. Detailed analysis of trait pattern distributions are presented that may be useful for future research on human variation. We point to the need for additional research on human variation and hair trait relationships with reference to known population affinity.

Brightness and hue judgment of dyed hair color

This study aims to investigate human hair color perception through two empirical studies in the context of colored hair. The preliminary study was intended to establish a numerical representation of perceptually meaningful brightness levels. It identified that the brightness level was proportional to the power of 0.766 of L*. In the visual assessment, participants (N = 47) categorized 246 hair color samples into eight color hue groups aligned with the Munsell system. Hue judgment was conducted by visually comparing dyed hair tresses with natural black hair. Based on the L*, a*, and b* values of hair tresses and visual assessments thereof, we observed the ranges of hue categories for hair color alongside the brightness levels. Additionally, the differences between the Munsell hue names and the assessment results were compared. Predominantly influenced by the dark brown hair color, the neutral orientation was shifted to the first quadrant of the a*-b* plane. The study contributes to an understanding of human hair color perception and provides insights into color categorization and labeling, especially when the context is confined.