Photodecomposition and phototoxicity of natural retinoids

Synergistic Anti-Aging Effects of Adipose-Derived Stem Cell Extracellular Vesicles Loaded With Natural Compounds

BACKGROUND

Small extracellular vesicles from adipose-derived stem cells (ASC-sEVs) are gaining attentions rapidly for inherent therapeutic values in skin care and cosmetics. However, the optimal combinations of ASC-sEVs and certain natural compounds for synergistic anti-aging effects have not been systematically studied.

METHODS

Human ASC-sEVs were purified from culture supernatant of ASCs and multi-omics datasets of miRNAs, proteins and lipids of ASC-sEVs were analyzed for pathways regulating skin homeostasis. ASC-sEVs were then loaded with nicotinamide riboside (NR), resveratrol (RES), vitamin C (VITC), retinol (RET) and arbutin (ARB) at different concentrations by the sonication-incubation method. Their anti-oxidant, anti-wrinkle and anti-melanogenic effects were tested in vitro using the human keratinocyte HaCaT cells exposed to UVB radiation and human melanocyte B16F10 cells.

RESULTS

Multi-omics data analysis of ASC-sEVs identified key bioactive molecules regulating collagen formation, pigmentation, oxidative stress and inflammation. In the in vitro screenings for anti-aging effects, the compound-loaded ASC-sEVs outperformed the sEV- and compound-only treatments. Specifically in UVB-exposed HaCaT cells, 2 μg/mL sEVs loaded with 20 μg/mL NR, 2 μg/mL RES, 5 μg/mL VITC reduced reactive oxygen species level by 22.0%; while combination of sEVs and 2 μg/mL RES, 2.8 μg/mL RET significantly reduced MMP3 and upregulated PLOD1 expressions. B16F10 cells incubated with 2 μg/mL sEVs loaded with 2 μg/mL RES, 0.5 mM ARB had intracellular and extracellular melanin content lowered by 21.4% and 22.4% respectively. All the combinations caused no cytotoxicity.

CONCLUSION

Our study demonstrated the superiority of ASC-sEVs to deliver both endogenous biocargos and exogenous compounds to achieve synergistic skin anti-aging effects.

A microparticle delivery system for extended release of all-trans retinoic acid and its impact on macrophage insulin-like growth factor 1 release and myotube formation

Muscle atrophy secondary to disuse, aging, or illness increases the risk of injury, prolonged recovery, and permanent disability. The recovery process involves macrophages and their secretions, such as insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), which direct muscle to regenerate and grow. Retinoic acid receptor (RAR) activation in macrophages increases IGF-1 expression and can be achieved with all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA). However, poor bioavailability limits its clinical application. Thus, we encapsulated ATRA into poly(lactide-co-glycolide) microparticles (ATRA-PLG) to maintain bioactivity and achieve extended release. ATRA-PLG induces IGF-1 release by RAW 264.7 macrophages, and conditioned media from these cells enhances C2C12 myotube formation through IGF-1. Additionally, ATRA released from ATRA-PLG enhances myotube formation in the absence of macrophages. Toward clinical translation, we envision that ATRA-PLG will be injected in the vicinity of debilitated muscle where it can be taken up by macrophages and induce IGF-1 release over a predetermined therapeutic window. Along these lines, we demonstrate that ATRA-PLG microparticles are readily taken up by bone marrow-derived macrophages and reside within the cytosol for at least 12 days with no toxicity. Interestingly, ATRA-PLG induced IGF-1 secretion by thioglycolate-elicited macrophages, but not bone marrow derived macrophages. We found that the RAR isoforms present in lysate differed between the macrophages studied, which could explain the different IGF-1 responses to ATRA. Given that ATRA-PLG enhances myotube formation directly (through ATRA) and indirectly (through macrophage IGF-1) this study supports the further testing of this promising pharmaceutical using rodent models of muscle regeneration and growth.

Topical retinoids: Novel derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, and combinations to improve chemical instability and skin irritation

BACKGROUND

Retinoids, defined as synthetic or natural derivatives of vitamin A, have been extensively studied as anti-aging molecules that are widely applied in cosmetics. However, due to their physicochemical property, retinoids are highly unstable and extremely sensitive to light, oxygen, and temperature. Moreover, topical application of retinoids often leads to cutaneous irritation. These instabilities and irritant properties of retinoids limit their application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

AIM

Our study aimed to provide a systematic review to summarize the mechanisms underlying the instability and irritant properties of retinoids, as well as recent developments in addressing these challenges.

METHODS

A comprehensive PubMed search was conducted using the following keywords: retinoids, chemical instability, skin irritation, retinoid derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, liposomes, penetration-enhancer vesicles, ethosomes, niosomes, nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, vitamins, soothing and hydrating agents, antioxidants and metal chelator and retinol combinations. Relevant researches published between 1968 and 2023 and studies related to these reports were reviewed.

RESULTS

The development of new retinoid derivatives, the utilization of new delivery systems like nano lipid-based carriers and the combination with other compounds like vitamins, soothing agents, antioxidants and metal chelator have been explored to improve the stability, bioavailability, and toxicity of the retinoid family.

CONCLUSIONS

Through advancements in formulation techniques, structure modification of retinoid derivatives and development of novel nano lipid-based carriers, the chemical instability and skin irritation of retinoids has been mitigated, ensuring their efficacy and potency over extended periods.

The quantum mechanics of skincare: A context for the biochemistry curriculum

Designing a relevant and engaging curriculum for biochemistry undergraduates can be challenging for topics which are at the periphery of the subject. We have used the framework of context-based learning as a means of assessing understanding of quantum theory in a group of students in their junior year. Our context, the role of retinol in skincare, provides a basis for the simple application of quantum mechanical principles to a biological context in an adaptation of the polyene in a box concept. As part of the learner journey, they gain experience of practical computational chemistry, which provided an in silico alternative to traditional laboratory work during the SARS-CoV-19 pandemic. Student feedback was overwhelmingly positive, and this approach is now firmly embedded in the undergraduate curriculum.

Current insights and future perspectives of ultraviolet radiation (UV) exposure: Friends and foes to the skin and beyond the skin

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in the environment, which has been classified as an established human carcinogen. As the largest and outermost organ of the body, direct exposure of skin to sunlight or UV radiation can result in sunburn, inflammation, photo-immunosuppression, photoaging and even skin cancers. To date, there are tactics to protect the skin by preventing UV radiation and reducing the amount of UV radiation to the skin. Nevertheless, deciphering the essential regulatory mechanisms may pave the way for therapeutic interventions against UV-induced skin disorders. Additionally, UV light is considered beneficial for specific skin-related conditions in medical UV therapy. Recent evidence indicates that the biological effects of UV exposure extend beyond the skin and include the treatment of inflammatory diseases, solid tumors and certain abnormal behaviors. This review mainly focuses on the effects of UV on the skin. Moreover, novel findings of the biological effects of UV in other organs and systems are also summarized. Nevertheless, the mechanisms through which UV affects the human organism remain to be fully elucidated to achieve a more comprehensive understanding of its biological effects.

Unraveling the mystery of ocular retinoid turnover: Insights from albino mice and the role of STRA6

A delicate balance between photon absorption for vision and the protection of photoreceptors from light damage is pivotal for ocular health. This equilibrium is governed by the light-absorbing 11-cis-retinylidene chromophore of visual pigments, which, upon bleaching, transforms into all-trans-retinal and undergoes regeneration through an enzymatic pathway, named the visual cycle. Chemical side reactions of retinaldehyde during the recycling process can generate by-products that may result in a depletion of retinoids. In our study, we have clarified the crucial roles played by melanin pigmentation and the retinoid transporter STRA6 in preventing this loss and preserving the integrity of the visual cycle. Our experiments initially confirmed that consecutive green and blue light bleaching of isolated bovine rhodopsin produced 9-cis and 13-cis retinal. The same unusual retinoids were found in the retinas of mice exposed to intense light, with elevated concentrations observed in albino mice. Examining the metabolic fate of these visual cycle byproducts revealed that 9-cis-retinal, but not 13-cis-retinal, was recycled back to all-trans-retinal through an intermediate called isorhodopsin. However, investigations in Stra6 knockout mice unveiled that the generation of these visual cycle byproducts correlated with a light-induced loss of ocular retinoids and visual impairment. Collectively, our findings uncover important novel aspects of visual cycle dynamics, with implications for ocular health and photoreceptor integrity.

Two-photon excitation fluorescence in ophthalmology: safety and improved imaging for functional diagnostics

Two-photon excitation fluorescence (TPEF) is emerging as a powerful imaging technique with superior penetration power in scattering media, allowing for functional imaging of biological tissues at a subcellular level. TPEF is commonly used in cancer diagnostics, as it enables the direct observation of metabolism within living cells. The technique is now widely used in various medical fields, including ophthalmology. The eye is a complex and delicate organ with multiple layers of different cell types and tissues. Although this structure is ideal for visual perception, it generates aberrations in TPEF eye imaging. However, adaptive optics can now compensate for these aberrations, allowing for improved imaging of the eyes of animal models for human diseases. The eye is naturally built to filter out harmful wavelengths, but these wavelengths can be mimicked and thereby utilized in diagnostics via two-photon (2Ph) excitation. Recent advances in laser-source manufacturing have made it possible to minimize the exposure of in vivo measurements within safety, while achieving sufficient signals to detect for functional images, making TPEF a viable option for human application. This review explores recent advances in wavefront-distortion correction in animal models and the safety of use of TPEF on human subjects, both of which make TPEF a potentially powerful tool for ophthalmological diagnostics.

Fabrication of polycaprolactone electrospun fibres with retinyl acetate for antioxidant delivery in a ROS-mimicking environment

Background: Increased cancer rates denote that one in two people will be diagnosed with cancer in their lifetime. Over 60% of cancer patients receive radiotherapy, either as a stand-alone treatment or in combination with other treatments such as chemotherapy and surgery. Whilst radiotherapy is effective in destroying cancer cells, it also causes subsequent damage to healthy cells and surrounding tissue due to alterations in the tumor microenvironment and an increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS). This can cause extensive damage that impairs tissue function, and the likelihood of tissue regeneration and restoration of function is significantly reduced as new healthy cells cannot survive in the damaged environment. In the treatment of head and neck cancers, radiotherapy can cause salivary gland dysfunction. This significantly impairs the patient's quality of life and there is currently no cure, only palliative treatment options. Tissue engineering approaches are used to mimic the microenvironment of the tissue and can mediate the damaged microenvironment via bioactive compounds, to support the delivery, survival, and proliferation of new, healthy cells into the damaged environment. Methods: In this study, retinyl acetate, a derivative of vitamin A, was successfully incorporated into electrospun polycaprolactone fibres. Results: SEM images and characterization analyses showed that all scaffolds produced had similar characteristics, including fiber morphology and scaffold wettability. The vitamin scaffolds were shown to exert an antioxidant effect through scavenging activity of both DPPH and hydroxyl radicals in vitro. Critically, the antioxidant scaffolds supported the growth of human submandibular gland cells and significantly upregulated the expression of GPx1, an antioxidant enzyme, when cultured under both normal conditions and under a simulated oxidative stress environment. Discussion: These results suggest that incorporation of retinyl acetate into electrospun fibres has may mediate the damaged microenvironment post cancer radiation therapy.

The Health Literacy of Retinol Cream Usage Among Female Students in the Faculty of Artificial Intelligence at Al-Balqa Applied University

INTRODUCTION

Considering people's tendency to self-treatment, efforts to address the broad aspects of health literacy are extremely important. The study aimed to find out the level of health literacy related to the use of retinol creams among female undergraduate students of the Faculty of Artificial Intelligence at Al-Balqa Applied University.

METHODS

This study adopted an analytical descriptive research methodology by designing and applying a questionnaire tool. The questionnaire consisted, after arbitration and testing its validity and stability, of 15 items. Each item represents one of the indicators for measuring the level of health literacy about the use of retinol creams. The sample of the study was a random sample of female students in the Faculty of Artificial Intelligence at Al-Balqa Applied University.

RESULTS

A total of 221 undergraduate female students were enrolled in the study. The most important results were that the arithmetic mean for estimating the level of health culture among female students in the study on the use of retinol creams was 3.117 out of 5, with a relative weight percentage of 62.3% and an average total score on the general level of indicators of total health culture.

CONCLUSION

This study provided insights into the health literacy related to the use of retinol creams among female students. While the students demonstrated a high level of health education in some aspects, there were areas where their knowledge and practices could be improved. These findings can contribute to the development of educational programs and interventions aimed at promoting the safe and informed use of retinol creams among university students.

Efficacy of Hydroponically Cultivated Saffron in the Preservation of Retinal Pigment Epithelium

Saffron treatment is a broad-spectrum therapy used for several retinal diseases, and its effectiveness depends on a particular molecular composition (REPRON^® saffron). Its production requires specific crops and procedures that, together with low yields, make this spice expensive. To reduce costs, the use of hydroponic crops is gradually increasing. In this study, we tested the protective properties of a hydroponic saffron (sH) batch in models of retinal pigmented epithelium (RPE) degeneration. ARPE-19 cells were pretreated with 40 µg/mL saffron and exposed to different types of damage: excess light and retinol (LE + RET) or oxidative stress (H₂O₂). After analyzing the composition of all saffron types with spectroscopy, we performed cell viability and immunofluorescence analysis for both protocols. We compared the sH results with those of a validated batch of saffron REPRON^® (sR) and those of a saffron non-REPRON^® (sNR) batch. sH and sR, which we found had the same chemical composition, were more effective than sNR in increasing cell survival and attenuating the morphological changes related to apoptosis. In conclusion, hydroponic culturing is a suitable strategy to produce high-quality saffron to reduce costs and increase the accessibility of this promising treatment for retinal degeneration.

Retinyl Ester Analysis by Orbitrap Mass Spectrometry

Retinoids are light-sensitive molecules that are normally detected by UV absorption techniques. Here we describe the identification and quantification of retinyl ester species by high-resolution mass spectrometry. Retinyl esters are extracted by the method of Bligh and Dyer and subsequently separated by HPLC in runs of 40 min. The retinyl esters are identified and quantified by mass spectrometry analysis. This procedure enables the highly sensitive detection and characterization of retinyl esters in biological samples such as hepatic stellate cells.

UV and visible light exposure to hair leads to widespread changes in the hair lipidome

OBJECTIVE

Scalp hair is among the most exposed parts of the human body, yet the impact of visible and UV light on hair lipids, an important structural component of hair, is poorly researched. We have used lipidomics, a broad-based approach to measure lipids in samples, which has hitherto not been applied to UV-exposed hair in the published literature, and could allow for a wider understanding of how UV light impacts on specific hair lipids.

METHODS

Mixed blonde Caucasian hair switches were divided into two groups of five, with half of the hair switches exposed to UV and visible light mimicking normal daytime exposure and half left unexposed. LC-MS lipidomics was used to profile the lipids in the hair samples.

RESULTS

A total of 791 lipids and 32 lipid classes with tentative identifications were detected in the hair samples. Nineteen lipid classes and 397 lipids differed between UV-treated and non-treated hair. The main lipid classes that differed were vitamin A fatty acid esters, sterol esters, several ceramides, mono-, di- and triglycerides, phosphatidylethanolamines (all decreased in UV-exposed hair) and bismonoacylglycerolphosphates, acylcarnitines and acylglycines (all increased in UV-exposed hair). Most detected lipids were decreased in UV-exposed hair, supporting earlier work that has found that UV exposure causes oxidation of lipids which would result in a decrease in most lipid classes.

CONCLUSION

Light exposure to hair has a widespread impact on the hair lipidome. This study also adds to the emerging literature on the hair lipidome, broadening the range of lipid classes reported in hair.

All-trans retinoic acid enhances the anti-tumour effects of fimaporfin-based photodynamic therapy

The vitamin A metabolite all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA; tretinoin) has anticancer potential. However, lack of clinical success has prevented its approval for solid tumours. Herein, we propose combining short-term low-dose ATRA with fimaporfin-based photodynamic therapy (ATRA+PDT) for the improved treatment of solid cancers. Compared to monotherapies, ATRA+PDT induced synergistic cytotoxic responses including promotion of apoptosis in colon and breast carcinoma cell lines. Neither enhanced activity of alkaline phosphatase (ALP) nor increased expression of CD133 was detected after ATRA treatment indicating that the improved therapeutic effect of ATRA+PDT is independent of the differentiation state of the cancer cells. In the human colorectal adenocarcinoma cell line HT-29, the effect of ATRA+PDT on gene expression was evaluated by RNA sequencing (RNA-seq). We identified 1129 differentially expressed genes (DEGs) after ATRA+PDT compared to PDT. Ingenuity Pathway Analysis (IPA) predicted the unfolded protein response (UPR), interferon (IFN) signaling and retinoic acid-mediated apoptosis signaling as strongly activated canonical pathways after ATRA+PDT compared to PDT. A validation of the RNA-sec data by RT-qPCR revealed that ATRA+PDT elevated mRNA expression of early growth response 1 (EGR1) and strongly the stress-induced activating transcription factor 3 (ATF3), of which was confirmed on the protein level. In addition, ATRA+PDT abolished mRNA expression of regenerating islet-derived protein 4 (REG4). During the first 20 days post-ATRA+PDT, we obtained significant anti-tumour responses in HT-29 xenografts, including complete responses in 2/5 mice. In conclusion, ATRA+PDT represent a novel combination therapy for solid tumours that should be further tested in immunocompetent preclinical models.

Managing Skin Ageing as a Modifiable Disorder—The Clinical Application of Nourella® Dual Approach Comprising a Nano-Encapsulated Retinoid, Retilex-A® and a Skin Proteoglycan Replacement Therapy, Vercilex®

Skin ageing is a progressive, but modifiable, multi-factorial disorder that involves all the skin’s tissues. Due to its wide range of physiological and psychosocial complications, skin ageing requires rigorous clinical attention. In this review, we aim to encourage clinicians to consider skin ageing as a disorder and suggest a novel, dual approach to its clinical treatment. Topical retinoids and per-oral proteoglycans are promising, non-invasive, therapeutic modalities. To overcome the low bioavailability of conventional free retinoids, Nourella® cream with Retilex-A® (Pharma Medico, Aarhus, Denmark) was developed using a proprietary nano-encapsulation technology. The nano-encapsulation is a sophisticated ‘permeation/penetration enhancer’ that optimises topical drug delivery by increasing the surface availability and net absorption ratio. Treatment adherence is also improved by minimising skin irritation. Interventional evidence suggests the greater efficacy of Retilex-A® in improving skin thickness and elasticity compared with conventional free forms. It is also reported that the rejuvenating efficacy of Retilex-A® and tretinoin are comparable. Another skin anti-ageing approach is proteoglycan replacement therapy (PRT) with Vercilex®. Vercilex® in Nourella® tablet form has the potential to ameliorate proteoglycan dysmetabolism in aged skin by activating skin cells and improving collagen/elastin turnover. Replicated clinical trials evidenced that PRT can significantly enhance the density, elasticity and thickness of both intrinsically aged and photoaged skin. Evidently, Vercilex® and Retilex-A® share a range of bioactivities that underlie their synergistic activity, as observed in a clinical trial. Dual therapy with Nourella® tablets and cream produced greater effects on skin characteristics than monotherapy with each of the two treatments. In conclusion, Nourella® cream and tablets are safe and effective treatments for skin ageing; however, combining the two in a ‘dual skin rejuvenation system’ significantly improves treatment outcomes.

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.

In vivo imaging of the human eye using a two-photon excited fluorescence scanning laser ophthalmoscope

BACKGROUND

Noninvasive assessment of metabolic processes that sustain regeneration of human retinal visual pigments (visual cycle) is essential to improve ophthalmic diagnostics and to accelerate development of new treatments to counter retinal diseases. Fluorescent vitamin A derivatives, which are the chemical intermediates of these processes, are highly sensitive to UV light; thus, safe analyses of these processes in humans are currently beyond the reach of even the most modern ocular imaging modalities.

METHODS

We present a compact fluorescence scanning laser ophthalmoscope (TPEF-SLO) and spectrally resolved images of the human retina based on two-photon excitation (TPE) with near-infrared (IR) light. A custom Er:fiber laser with integrated pulse selection, along with intelligent post-processing of data, enables excitation with low laser power and precise measurement of weak signals.

RESULTS

We demonstrate spectrally resolved TPE fundus images of human subjects. Comparison of TPE data between human and mouse models of retinal diseases revealed similarity with mouse models that rapidly accumulate bisretinoid condensation products. Thus, visual cycle intermediates and toxic byproducts of this metabolic pathway can be measured and quantified by TPE imaging.

CONCLUSION

Our work establishes a TPE instrument and measurement method for noninvasive metabolic assessment of the human retina. This approach opens the possibility for monitoring eye diseases in the earliest stages before structural damage to the retina occurs.

FUNDING

NIH, Research to Prevent Blindness, Foundation for Polish Science, European Regional Development Fund, Polish National Agency for Academic Exchange and Polish Ministry of Science and Higher Education.

Photodegradation of Bexarotene and Its Implication for Cytotoxicity

A detailed understanding of the stability of an active pharmaceutical ingredient and a pharmaceutical dosage form is essential for the drug-development process and for safe and effective use of medicines. Photostability testing as an inherent part of stability studies provides valuable knowledge on degradation pathways and structures of products generated under UV irradiation. Photostability is particularly important for topically administered drugs, as they are more exposed to UV radiation. Bexarotene is a more recent third-generation retinoid approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and the European Medicines Agency as a topically applied anticancer agent. The present study aimed to assess bexarotene photostability, including the presence of UV filters, which have been permitted to be used in cosmetic products in Europe and the USA. The bexarotene photostability testing was performed in ethanol solutions and in formulations applied on PMMA plates. The UPLC-MS/MS technique was used to determine the tested substance. The presence of photocatalysts such as TiO₂ or ZnO, as well as the organic UV filters avobenzone, benzophenone-3, meradimate, and homosalate, could contribute to degradation of bexarotene under UV irradiation. Four photocatalytic degradation products of bexarotene were identified for the first time. The antiproliferative properties of the degradation products of bexarotene were assessed by MTT assay on a panel of human adherent cancer cells, and concentration-dependent growth inhibition was evidenced on all tested cell lines. The cytotoxicity of the formed products after 4 h of UV irradiation was significantly higher than that of the parent compound (p < 0.05). Furthermore non-cancerous murine fibroblasts exhibited marked concentration-dependent inhibition by bexarotene, while the degradation products elicited more pronounced antiproliferative action only at the highest applied concentration.

Quality Control of Vitamins A and E and Coenzyme Q10 in Commercial Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Products

Vitamins A and E and coenzyme Q10 are common ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetic products. Within this study, we evaluated the quality of commercial cosmetics with vitamin A (35 products), vitamin E (49 products), and coenzyme Q10 (27 products) by using validated HPLC–UV methods. Vitamin A was determined as retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, β carotene, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate in concentrations ranging from 950 ng/g to 19 mg/g. Total vitamin A contents, expressed with retinol equivalents, ranged from 160 ng/g to 19 mg/g, and were above the maximum concentration recommended by the SCCS in six of the 35 tested cosmetics. The content-related quality control of 10 cosmetics with specified vitamin A content revealed significant deviations (between 0% and 400%) of the label claim. Vitamin E was determined as both tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate in concentrations between 8.5 µg/g and 16 mg/g. Coenzyme Q10 was determined as ubiquinone in 24 tested cosmetics, which labelled it, in concentrations between 4.2 µg/g and 100 µg/g. Labelling irregularities were observed in all three active compound groups, resulting in a significant share (42%) of improperly labelled cosmetic products. The results of this study reveal the need for stricter cosmetics regulation and highlight the importance of their quality control, especially by evaluating the contents of the active compounds, in their efficacy and safety assurance.

Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products

BACKGROUND

Retinoids as dermatological agents are effective against acne, psoriasis, skin aging, and other skin conditions. However, their susceptibility to degradation is a limiting factor for their widespread use.

OBJECTIVES

Within this study, we aimed to provide comprehensive and evidence-based information on retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetics, focusing on different factors affecting their stability.

METHODS

A validated HPLC-UV methodology was utilized for determination of the most common retinoids in cosmetics (retinol, retinyl palmitate, β-carotene) and a newer promising retinoid (hydroxypinacolone retinoate). The stability of 16 retinoid derivatives in 12 commercial cosmetics was evaluated within 6 months of long-term and accelerated stability testing in addition to a one-week photostability study. Retinoid degradation in the tested formulations followed first-order kinetics, which was further applied to shelf-life prediction.

RESULTS

Long-term and accelerated stability testing revealed retinoid instabilities in almost all products, resulting in a 0%-80% decline after 6 months at 25°C and a 40%-100% decline at 40°C, which were kinetically evaluated. Light degradation was more pronounced than temperature-induced degradation. Among the studied retinoids, the stability of the newer hydroxypinacolone retinoate was the most prominent. This study also identifies correlations between retinoid concentrations, price, formulation, and their stability in cosmetics.

CONCLUSIONS

Retinoid instabilities were formulation-dependent and associated with lower contents than declared in some cosmetics. Retinoid chemical stability and physical stability in topical formulations need to be evaluated by real-time stability studies, instead of the more frequently used accelerated stability studies.

Characterization of Retinol Stabilized in Phosphatidylcholine Vesicles with and without Antioxidants

Retinol stability has been reported to be improved by encapsulation in liposomes, both with and without cholesterol. However, this improvement is limited because of lipid peroxidation. In this study, we compare the stability of retinol in phosphatidylcholine liposomes under ultraviolet (UV) light or standard room air, with and without the addition of antioxidants. Both butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and a proprietary mix (StoppOx) improved the shelf stability from <10 to over 30 d. The addition of cholesterol had no effect. Fluorescence imaging showed a heterogeneous distribution of retinol within the vesicles, including within the aqueous layer. Fluorescence lifetimes were equally heterogeneous. Under UV irradiation, StoppOx protected retinol for significantly longer than BHT and via different mechanisms. This suggests that natural antioxidants work well to improve the retinol stability, but that further work to determine the optimal vesicle structure remains to be performed.

Modulating electrophysiology of motor neural networks via optogenetic stimulation during neurogenesis and synaptogenesis

Control of electrical activity in neural circuits through network training is a grand challenge for biomedicine and engineering applications. Past efforts have not considered evoking long-term changes in firing patterns of in-vitro networks by introducing training regimens with respect to stages of neural development. Here, we used Channelrhodopsin-2 (ChR2) transfected mouse embryonic stem cell (mESC) derived motor neurons to explore short and long-term programming of neural networks by using optical stimulation implemented during neurogenesis and synaptogenesis. Not only did we see a subsequent increase of neurite extensions and synaptophysin clustering, but by using electrophysiological recording with micro electrode arrays (MEA) we also observed changes in signal frequency spectra, increase of network synchrony, coordinated firing of actions potentials, and enhanced evoked response to stimulation during network formation. Our results demonstrate that optogenetic stimulation during neural differentiation can result in permanent changes that extended to the genetic expression of neurons as demonstrated by RNA Sequencing. To our knowledge, this is the first time that a correlation between training regimens during neurogenesis and synaptogenesis and the resulting plastic responses has been shown in-vitro and traced back to changes in gene expression. This work demonstrates new approaches for training of neural circuits whose electrical activity can be modulated and enhanced, which could lead to improvements in neurodegenerative disease research and engineering of in-vitro multi-cellular living systems.

Cereal bran protects vitamin A from degradation during simmering and storage

Food supplementation with vitamin A is an efficient strategy to combat vitamin A deficiency. The stability of vitamin A during cooking and storage is, however, low. We here show that cereal bran protects retinyl palmitate (RP) during simmering and storage. Native wheat bran stabilized RP the most during simmering. About 75% RP was recovered after 120 min of cooking, while all RP was lost after 80 min in the absence of bran. Heat-treated rice bran protected RP the best during forced storage, with a 35% recovery after 8 weeks. RP was degraded entirely in the absence of bran in less than one week. Results suggested that the physical entrapment of oil within the large wheat bran particles protects RP from the action of water and pro-oxidants during simmering. During storage, the high amount and diversity of lipid components present in rice bran are presumably responsible for its protective effect.

Light-induced stress as a primary evolutionary driver of eye origins

Eyes are quintessential complex traits and our understanding of their evolution guides models of trait evolution in general. A long-standing account of eye evolution argues natural selection favors morphological variations that allow increased functionality for sensing light. While certainly true in part, this focus on visual performance does not entirely explain why diffuse photosensitivity persists even after eyes evolve, or why eyes evolved many times, each time using similar building blocks. Here, we briefly review a vast literature indicating most genetic components of eyes historically responded to stress caused directly by light, including ultraviolet damage of DNA, oxidative stress, and production of aldehydes. We propose light-induced stress had a direct and prominent role in the evolution of eyes by bringing together genes to repair and prevent damage from light-stress, both before and during the evolution of eyes themselves. Stress-repair and stress-prevention genes were perhaps originally deployed as plastic responses to light and/or as beneficial mutations genetically driving expression where light was prominent. These stress-response genes sense, shield, and refract light but only as reactions to ongoing light stress. Once under regulatory-genetic control, they could be expressed before light stress appeared, evolve as a module, and be influenced by natural selection to increase functionality for sensing light, ultimately leading to complex eyes and behaviors. Recognizing the potentially prominent role of stress in eye evolution invites discussions of plasticity and assimilation and provides a hypothesis for why similar genes are repeatedly used in convergent eyes. Broadening the drivers of eye evolution encourages consideration of multi-faceted mechanisms of plasticity/assimilation and mutation/selection for complex novelties and innovations in general.

Role of supramolecular policosanol oleogels in the protection of retinyl palmitate against photodegradation

Exposure of retinyl palmitate (RP) to ultraviolet radiation can lead to its photo-degradation and loss of biological activity.

Photostability of Topical Agents Applied to the Skin: A Review

Topical treatment modalities have multiple advantages starting with the convenient application and non-invasive treatment and ending with the reduction of the risk of the systemic side effects. Active pharmaceutical substances must reach the desired concentration at the target site in order to produce a particular therapeutic effect. In contrast to other dosage forms topical agents applied to the skin may also be susceptible to photodegradation after application. That is why the knowledge of the susceptibility of these topical drugs to UV irradiation, which may contribute to their degradation or changes in chemical structure, is very important. Active pharmaceutical substances used in dermatology may differ both in chemical structure and photostability. Furthermore, various factors-such as light intensity and wavelength, pH, temperature, concentration-can influence the photodegradation process, which is reflected in particular in kinetics of photodegradation of active pharmaceutical substances as well as both the quantitative and qualitative composition of by-products. The aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the photostability of dermatological drugs, as well as of other substances commonly applied topically. The photostability of glucocorticosteroids, retinoids, and antifungal drugs as well as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs applied topically and selected UV-filters have been discussed. Furthermore, the impact of photoinstability on the effectiveness of pharmacotherapy and some photostabilization strategies have been also included.

Modulation of cardiac optogenetics by vitamin A

Cardiac optogenetics is an emergent research area and refers to the delivery of light-activated proteins to excitable heart tissue and the subsequent use of light for controlling the electrical function with high spatial and temporal resolution. Channelrhodopsin-2 (ChR2) is a light-sensitive ion channel with the chromophore, all trans retinal, derived from vitamin A (all-trans-retinol; retinol). In this study, we explored whether exogenous vitamin A can be a limiting factor in the light responsiveness of cardiomyocytes-expressing ChR2. We showed that in cardiomyocytes virally transduced with ChR2 (H134R)-enhanced yellow fluorescent protein, vitamin A supplements lower than 10 μM significantly increased ChR2 expression. Adding 1 μM vitamin A changed light-induced transmembrane potential difference significantly, whereas 5 μM dramatically induced membrane depolarization and triggered intracellular calcium elevation. We concluded that vitamin A supplementation can modulate the efficiency of ChR2 and provide a complementary strategy for improving the performance of optogenetic tools.

Epithelial retinoic acid receptor β regulates serum amyloid A expression and vitamin A-dependent intestinal immunity

Vitamin A is a nutrient that is essential for the development of intestinal immunity. It is absorbed by gut epithelial cells, which convert it to retinol and retinoic acid. Here we show that the transcription factor retinoic acid receptor β (RARβ) allows epithelial cells to sense vitamin A in the diet and regulate vitamin A-dependent immunity in the intestine. We find that epithelial RARβ regulates several intestinal immune responses, including production of the immunomodulatory protein serum amyloid A, T-cell homing to the intestine, and B-cell production of immunoglobulin A. Our findings provide insight into how epithelial cells sense vitamin A to regulate intestinal immunity, and highlight why vitamin A is so important for immunity to infection.

Vitamin A is a dietary component that is essential for the development of intestinal immunity. Vitamin A is absorbed and converted to its bioactive derivatives retinol and retinoic acid by the intestinal epithelium, yet little is known about how epithelial cells regulate vitamin A-dependent intestinal immunity. Here we show that epithelial cell expression of the transcription factor retinoic acid receptor β (RARβ) is essential for vitamin A-dependent intestinal immunity. Epithelial RARβ activated vitamin A-dependent expression of serum amyloid A (SAA) proteins by binding directly to Saa promoters. In accordance with the known role of SAAs in regulating Th17 cell effector function, epithelial RARβ promoted IL-17 production by intestinal Th17 cells. More broadly, epithelial RARβ was required for the development of key vitamin A-dependent adaptive immune responses, including CD4⁺ T-cell homing to the intestine and the development of IgA-producing intestinal B cells. Our findings provide insight into how the intestinal epithelium senses dietary vitamin A status to regulate adaptive immunity, and highlight the role of epithelial cells in regulating intestinal immunity in response to diet.

Ketoprofen-induced photoallergic dermatitis

Drug-induced photosensitivity reactions are significant adverse effects. Ketoprofen is one of the most common drugs that can cause skin rash in sun-exposed areas. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), such as ketoprofen, are often used for a variety of symptoms, including pain and fever. An understanding of the presentation and clinical course of ketoprofen-induced photosensitivity is necessary to correctly diagnose and manage this condition. Ketoprofen-induced photosensitivity reactions usually present as photoallergic dermatitis, which is a cell-mediated immune process. The benzophenone moiety in ketoprofen plays a major role in ketoprofen's ability to act as a photosensitizer. Several agents, such as fenofibrate and octocrylene have been found to be associated with aggravation of ketoprofen-induced photoallergic dermatitis or cross-photosensitization, and these reactions result from structural similarities with ketoprofen. Treatment of ketoprofen-induced photoallergic dermatitis includes discontinuation of ketoprofen, topical or systemic corticosteroids and avoidance of sun exposure and agents known to exacerbate dermatitis. In conclusion, photoallergic dermatitis is a significant adverse effect of ketoprofen. Some agents known to worsen dermatitis may be found in sun protection products (notably, octocrylene in sunscreen). Educating the patient to avoid these products is critical to treatment. Since NSAIDs, such as ketoprofen, are used commonly for a variety of illnesses, drug-induced photoallergic dermatitis should be high on the differential in individuals using these medications who present with acute onset of a rash in sun-exposed areas.

Fully-biobased UV-absorbing nanoparticles from ethyl cellulose and zein for environmentally friendly photoprotection

Effective photoprotection is a vital consumer issue. However, there are many concerns regarding the adverse environmental and health impacts associated with current organic and inorganic UV filters. Here, we prepare fully-biobased UV-absorbing nanoparticles from ethyl cellulose (ECNPs) and zein (ZNPs) with encapsulated biobased photoprotectants obtainable from plants and foods (quercetin, retinol, and p-coumaric acid), which have the potential to satisfy both environmental and health issues in photoprotection. We show the ability of ECNPs and ZNPs to be easily tuned compositionally to obtain uniform, broadband UV spectrum absorbance profiles, and prepare transparent UV-absorbing coatings from the ECNPs. We find that the maximum loadings for retinol, quercetin, and p-coumaric acid into the ECNPs are 31 wt%, 14 wt%, and 13 wt% respectively. The ECNP size remains constant (except for the largest loading of retinol, 31 wt%) and the absolute zeta potential increases upon increasing the loading of quercetin and retinol, whereas increasing the loading of p-coumaric acid results in increasing the particle size and a lower absolute zeta potential. We find that quercetin and retinol are effectively retained inside the ECNPs at 64–70% after 72 hours. These results have significant implications for the development of novel photoprotection technologies and functional nanoparticles.

UV-absorbing nanoparticles are prepared with an entirely biobased composition, as a novel environmentally-friendly photoprotection technology.

Singlet Oxygen and Free Radical Reactions of Retinoids and Carotenoids-A Review

We report on studies of reactions of singlet oxygen with carotenoids and retinoids and a range of free radical studies on carotenoids and retinoids with emphasis on recent work, dietary carotenoids and the role of oxygen in biological processes. Many previous reviews are cited and updated together with new data not previously reviewed. The review does not deal with computational studies but the emphasis is on laboratory-based results. We contrast the ease of study of both singlet oxygen and polyene radical cations compared to neutral radicals. Of particular interest is the switch from anti- to pro-oxidant behavior of a carotenoid with change of oxygen concentration: results for lycopene in a cellular model system show total protection of the human cells studied at zero oxygen concentration, but zero protection at 100% oxygen concentration.

Technical brief: Pump-probe paradigm in an integrating cavity to study photodecomposition processes

PURPOSE

Assaying photodecomposition is challenging because light must be used to initiate the photodamage and light must be used to monitor the photodecomposition. The experimental requirements are as follows: 1) During exposure of the actinic beam, continuously monitor the spectral characteristics of the sample, 2) uniformly expose the reactants to the actinic source, 3) obtain informative spectra in the presence of light scatter, and 4) achieve sufficient sensitivity for dilute reactants. Traditional spectrophotometers cannot address these issues due to sample turbidity, the inability to uniformly expose the cuvette contents to the incident beam, the inability to simultaneously perform spectral scans, and inherent low sensitivity. Here, we describe a system that meets these challenges in a practical way.

METHODS

Light access to a 8.6 ml quartz integrating sphere containing 10 µM all-trans retinol in PBS was provided by three ports at right angles allowing for the following: 1) actinic light delivery from light-emitting diodes (LEDs) firing at 100 pulses/sec, 2) entry of a separate scanning beam at 100 scans/sec (10,000 µsec scan time) via an OLIS RSM 1000 ultraviolet/visual (UV/Vis) rapid-scanning spectrophotometer (RSM), and 3) light exit to the detector photomultiplier. The RSM spectral intermediate slit was partially covered to allow for a "dark" period of 2,000 µsec when no scanning light was admitted to the cuvette. During that interval, the LED was flashed, and the photomultiplier was temporarily blocked by a perforated spinning shutter disk. The absorbance per centimeter, which is increased due to the internal reflectance of the integrating sphere compared to a standard 1 cm rectangular cuvette, was calculated according to Fry et al. (2010) Applied Optics 49:575. Retinoid photodecomposition was confirmed with high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

RESULTS

Using the RSM to trigger the LED flash and photomultiplier shutter closure during the "dark" period allowed actinic flashes to be placed between scans. Exposure of the all-trans retinol to 366 nm flashes resulted in marked reduction in absorbance and a blue shift of the λmax. A white LED, despite its higher photon output, did not support all-trans retinol photolysis. Singular value decomposition (SVD) analysis revealed three spectral intermediates with mechanism, I -> II -> III. HPLC analysis of the reactants at the beginning and the conclusion of the light exposure confirmed the retinol photodecomposition.

CONCLUSIONS

The highly reflecting cavity acts as a multipass cuvette that markedly increased the light path length and, thus, sensitivity. Triggering the LED during a dark period within the scan time allowed the actinic flashes to be interleafed between scans in a pump-probe paradigm. Furthermore, the entire sample was exposed to scan beam and actinic flashes, which is not possible in traditional spectrophotometers. Finally, the integrating cavity cuvette allowed use of turbid samples. SVD was useful for resolving spectral intermediates. Although the identity of the intermediates was not determined here, the ability to define molecular intermediates during photodecomposition reactions will allow future studies to isolate and identify the degradation products and determine the mechanism of light-induced retinoid degradation and that of retinoid-binding protein-mediated photoprotection.

Interphotoreceptor retinoid-binding protein protects retinoids from photodegradation

Retinol degrades rapidly in light into a variety of photoproducts. It is remarkable that visual cycle retinoids can evade photodegradation as they are exchanged between the photoreceptors, retinal pigment epithelium and Müller glia. Within the interphotoreceptor matrix, all-trans retinol, 11-cis retinol and retinal are bound by interphotoreceptor retinoid-binding protein (IRBP). Apart from its role in retinoid trafficking and targeting, could IRBP have a photoprotective function? HPLC was used to evaluate the ability of IRBP to protect all-trans and 11-cis retinols from photodegradation when exposed to incandescent light (0 to 8842 μW cm(-2)); time periods of 0-60 min, and bIRBP: retinol molar ratios of 1:1 to 1:5. bIRBP afforded a significant prevention of both all-trans and 11-cis retinol to rapid photodegradation. The effect was significant over the entire light intensity range tested, and extended to the bIRBP: retinol ratio 1:5. In view of the continual exposure of the retina to light, and the high oxidative stress in the outer retina, our results suggest IRBP may have an important protective role in the visual cycle by reducing photodegradation of all-trans and 11-cis retinols. This role of IRBP is particularly relevant in the high flux conditions of the cone visual cycle.

Pectin Micro- and Nano-capsules of Retinyl Palmitate as Cosmeceutical Carriers for Stabilized Skin Transport

Retinyl palmitate (RP)-loaded pectinate micro- and nano-particles (PMP and PNP) were designed for stabilization of RP that is widely used as an anti-wrinkle agent in anti-aging cosmeceuticals. PMP/PNP were prepared with an ionotropic gelation method, and anti-oxidative activity of the particles was measured with a DPPH assay. The stability of RP in the particles along with pectin gel and ethanolic solution was then evaluated. In vitro release and skin permeation studies were performed using Franz diffusion cells. Distribution of RP in each skin tissue (stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis) was also determined. PMP and PNP could be prepared with mean particle size diameters of 593~843 μm (PMP) and 530 nm (i.e., 0.53 μm, PNP). Anti-oxidative activity of PNP was greater than PMP due largely to larger surface area available for PNP. The stability of RP in PMP and PNP was similar but much greater than RP in pectin bulk gels and ethanolic solution. PMP and PNP showed the abilities to constantly release RP and it could be permeated across the model artificial membrane and rat whole skin. RP was serially deposited throughout the skin layers. This study implies RP loaded PMP and PNP are expected to be advantageous for improved anti-wrinkle effects.

Oxidative stress in dry age-related macular degeneration and exfoliation syndrome

Oxidative stress refers to cellular or molecular damage caused by reactive oxygen species, which especially occurs in age-related conditions as a result of an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species and the antioxidant defense response. Dry age-related macular degeneration (AMD) and exfoliation syndrome (XFS) are two common and complex age-related conditions that can cause irreversible vision loss. Two subtypes of AMD, which is the leading cause of blindness in the Western world, exist: the most prevalent dry type and the most severe wet type. Early dry AMD is characterized by formation of drusen, which are sub-retinal deposits, in the macular area and may progress to geographic atrophy with more dramatic manifestation. XFS is a systemic disorder of the extracellular matrix characterized by the accumulation of elastic fibrils that leads, in most cases, to glaucoma development with progressive and irreversible vision loss. Due to the aging population, the prevalence of these already-widespread conditions is increasing and is resulting in significant economic and psychological costs for individuals and for society. The exact composition of the abnormal drusen and XFS material as well as the mechanisms responsible for their production and accumulation still remain elusive, and consequently treatment for both diseases is lacking. However, recent epidemiologic, genetic and molecular studies support a major role for oxidative stress in both dry AMD and XFS development. Understanding the early molecular events in their pathogenesis and the exact role of oxidative stress may provide novel opportunities for therapeutic intervention for the prevention of progression to advanced disease.

Electron spin resonance spectroscopy for the study of nanomaterial-mediated generation of reactive oxygen species

Many of the biological applications and effects of nanomaterials are attributed to their ability to facilitate the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy is a direct and reliable method to identify and quantify free radicals in both chemical and biological environments. In this review, we discuss the use of ESR spectroscopy to study ROS generation mediated by nanomaterials, which have various applications in biological, chemical, and materials science. In addition to introducing the theory of ESR, we present some modifications of the method such as spin trapping and spin labeling, which ultimately aid in the detection of short-lived free radicals. The capability of metal nanoparticles in mediating ROS generation and the related mechanisms are also presented.

Phototoxicity of herbal plants and herbal products

Plants are used by humans in daily life in many different ways, including as food, herbal medicines, and cosmetics. Unfortunately, many natural plants and their chemical constituents are photocytotoxic and photogenotoxic, and these phototoxic phytochemicals are widely present in many different plant families. To date, information concerning the phototoxicity and photogenotoxicity of many plants and their chemical constituents is limited. In this review, we discuss phototoxic plants and their major phototoxic constituents; routes of human exposure; phototoxicity of these plants and their constituents; general mechanisms of phototoxicity of plants and phototoxic components; and several representative phototoxic plants and their photoactive chemical constituents.

Retinal photodamage by endogenous and xenobiotic agents

The human eye is constantly exposed to sunlight and artificial lighting. Light transmission through the eye is fundamental to its unique biological functions of directing vision and circadian rhythm and therefore light absorbed by the eye must be benign. However, exposure to the very intense ambient radiation can pose a hazard particularly if the recipient is over 40 years of age. There are age-related changes in the endogenous (natural) chromophores (lipofuscin, A2E and all-trans-retinal derivatives) in the human retina that makes it more susceptible to visible light damage. Intense visible light sources that do not filter short blue visible light (400-440 nm) used for phototherapy of circadian imbalance (i.e. seasonal affective disorder) increase the risk for age-related light damage to the retina. Moreover, many drugs, dietary supplements, nanoparticles and diagnostic dyes (xenobiotics) absorb ocular light and have the potential to induce photodamage to the retina, leading to transient or permanent blinding disorders. This article will review the underlying reasons why visible light in general and short blue visible light in particular dramatically raises the risk of photodamage to the human retina.

A comparative evaluation of photo-toxic effect of fractionated melanin and chlorpromazine hydrochloride on human (dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes) and mouse cell line/s (fibroblast Balb/c 3T3)

Fractionated melanin (Mel-HEV), a bleached version of natural melanin, offers protection against the high energy visible (HEV/UVA) and ultraviolet (specifically UVA) irradiation making it a potential compound to be added to skin care and sunscreen formulations and other cosmetic and personal care products. Chlorpromazine (CPZ) has been shown to exhibit photosensitivity and phototoxicity reaction in vitro and in vivo. Comparative evaluation of chemotoxicity and phototoxicity using Mel-HEV and CPZ (as positive control) was performed on mouse fibroblast cell line 'Balb/c 3T3'. This is the recommended method for evaluating the phototoxic potential of compounds under the European Center of Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM) guidelines (OECD, 2004). This study was expanded from a mouse cell line - Balb 3T3/c to two human cell lines - HDF and HEKn for two reasons: to compare the difference between the sensitivity and behavior of two fibroblast cell lines (Balb/c 3T3 vs. HDF) and to compare the differences between two fibroblast cell lines with the keratinocyte cell line (HDF & Balb/c 3T3 vs. HEKn). It was found that Balb/c 3T3 and HEKn were both sensitive to the phototoxic potential of CPZ. However, HDF showed insensitivity to phototoxic evaluation. The test compound, Mel-HEV, was found to be non-phototoxic. The mean toxic concentration (MTC) for CPZ during HEV and UVA exposure conditions was found to be similar using Balb/c 3T3 (36.25 μg/ml) and HEKn (39.99 μg/ml) showing that cells exhibit similar responses at HEV/UVA- conditions. However, Balb/c 3T3 showed more sensitivity to CPZ at HEV/UVA+ condition (MTC=0.87 μg/ml; mean PIF=55.33; MPE=0.395) than HEKn (MTC=5.35 μg/ml; PIF=7.61; MPE=0.276) making it the preferred cell line for phototoxicity evaluations.

Influence of the photostabilizer in the photoprotective effects of a formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

Comparison of A2E cytotoxicity and phototoxicity with all-trans-retinal in human retinal pigment epithelial cells

All-trans-retinal is the precursor of A2E, a fluorophore within lipofuscin, which accumulates in human retinal pigment epithelial (hRPE) cells and contributes to age-related macular degeneration. Here we have compared the in vitro dark cytotoxicity and visible-light-mediated photoreactivity of all-trans-retinal and A2E in hRPE cells. All-trans-retinal caused distinct cytotoxicity in hRPE cells measured with cell metabolic activity (MTS) and lactate dehydrogenase release assays. Significant increases in intracellular oxidized glutathione (GSSG), extracellular GSH and GSSG levels and lipid hydroperoxide production were observed in cells incubated in the dark with 25 and 50 microM all-trans-retinal. Light modified all-trans-retinal's harmful action and decreased extracellular glutathione and hydroperoxide levels. A2E (<25 microM) did not affect cell metabolism or cytoplasmic membrane integrity in the dark or when irradiated. 25 microM A2E raised the intracellular GSSG level in hRPE cells to a much smaller extent than 25 microM all-trans-retinal. A2E did not induce glutathione efflux or hydroperoxide generation in the dark or after irradiation. These studies support our previous conclusions that although A2E may be harmful at high concentrations or when oxidized, its phototoxic properties are insignificant compared to those of all-trans-retinal. The endogenous production of A2E may serve as a protective mechanism to prevent damage to the retina by free all-trans-retinal.

α-Tocopherol increases caspase-3 up-regulation and apoptosis by β-carotene cleavage products in human neutrophils

It has been found that beta-carotene cleavage products (CarCP), besides having mutagenic and toxic effects on mitochondria due to their prooxidative properties, also initiate spontaneous apoptosis of human neutrophils. Therefore, it was expected that antioxidants such as alpha-tocopherol would inhibit the stimulation of apoptosis and caspase-3 activity by CarCP. However, we found that alpha-tocopherol increases caspase-3 up-regulation and stimulation of apoptosis of human neutrophils by CarCP. Ascorbic acid does not alter this caspase-3 up-regulating and proapoptotic effect exerted by alpha-tocopherol. Both alpha-tocopherol and ascorbic acid, in the absence of CarCP, decrease intracellular caspase-3 activity and spontaneous apoptosis of neutrophils. Uric acid alone or in combination with CarCP does not exert apparent effects on caspase-3 activity and apoptosis. Up-regulating effect of alpha-tocopherol is not observed in the presence of retinol that markedly stimulates apoptosis by itself, whereas increase of caspase-3 activity is induced by concomitant addition of alpha-tocopherol and beta-ionone, a cyclohexenyl degradation product of beta-carotene with shorter aliphatic chain.