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Maisel-Campbell AL, Waldman A, Dave L, Poon E, Alam M. Why different types of patients seek cosmetic treatments. Arch Dermatol Res 2024; 316:84. [PMID: 38324187 DOI: 10.1007/s00403-023-02813-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/18/2023] [Revised: 05/18/2023] [Accepted: 12/27/2023] [Indexed: 02/08/2024]
Abstract
The extent to which demographics drive patients to pursue minimally invasive cosmetic procedures is not well-understood. The aim of this project was to better understand how patient demographics impact motivations for cosmetic procedures, irrespective of the procedure desired. Patient-level information from the Cosmetic Motivation Database was evaluated using linear regression analyses to determine whether geographic region, age, gender, race, and education independently influence patients to pursue any cosmetic treatment or consultation. Patients in the Midwest reported fewer motivations related to cosmetic appearance, mental/emotional health, physical health, social life, and school/work success than those in the South. Patients younger than 45 years reported more mental/emotional health and cost/convenience motives compared to older patients. Men noted fewer motives related to cosmetic appearance, mental/emotional health, and cost/convenience but more related to school/work success. Non-White patients reported more cost/convenience motives. Participants with up to a high school diploma cited more mental/emotional health, physical health, social life, and school/work success motivations than those with post-bachelor's education. College graduates cited more school/work success motives than those with graduate-level education. In summary, patient's gender, education, age, location, and race affect why they seek cosmetic treatments. Future research may study younger and less educated patients to improve their access to treatment.
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Valachová K, Hassan ME, Šoltés L. Hyaluronan: Sources, Structure, Features and Applications. Molecules 2024; 29:739. [PMID: 38338483 PMCID: PMC10856924 DOI: 10.3390/molecules29030739] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/06/2023] [Revised: 01/28/2024] [Accepted: 02/01/2024] [Indexed: 02/12/2024] Open
Abstract
Hyaluronan (HA) is a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan that is present in a variety of body tissues and organs. Hyaluronan has a wide range of biological activities that are frequently influenced by molar mass; however, they also depend greatly on the source, purity, and kind of impurities in hyaluronan. High-molar-mass HA has anti-inflammatory, immunosuppressive, and antiangiogenic properties, while low-molar-mass HA has opposite properties. A number of chemical modifications have been performed to enhance the stability of HA and its applications in medical practice. Hyaluronan is widely applied in medicine, such as viscosupplementation, ophthalmology, otolaryngology, wound healing, cosmetics, and drug delivery. In this review, we summarized several medical applications of polymers based on the hyaluronan backbone.
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García-Mesa JC, Morales-Benítez I, Montoro-Leal P, López Guerrero MM, Vereda Alonso EI. sp-ICP-MS and HR-CS-GFAAS as useful available techniques for the size characterization and speciation of ionic and nanoparticular zinc in cosmetic and pharmaceutical samples. Talanta 2024; 268:125360. [PMID: 37913598 DOI: 10.1016/j.talanta.2023.125360] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/01/2023] [Revised: 10/16/2023] [Accepted: 10/26/2023] [Indexed: 11/03/2023]
Abstract
The use of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry has been increased in recent years due to their good properties as solar radiation filters and antibacterial agent. According to the literature, the potential toxicity of these NPs could be size-dependent and the amount of solubilized metal. This work investigates new reliable and straightforward methodologies that enables the determination of ZnO NPs, discriminating them from ionic zinc in cosmetic samples. Two different techniques of analysis have been applied in this study: high-resolution continuum source graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry (HR-CS-GFAAS), and "single particle" inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (sp-ICP-MS). Triton X-100 has been used as a surfactant for the formation of homogeneous and stable slurries which allowed the determination of the concentration and sizes of ZnO NPs and Zn2+ in baby creams, eyeshadows, and lotions. A central composite design (CCD) was performed for the two techniques to optimize the concentration of Triton X-100 and sonication time. For validation purpose, the results of Zn2+ and ZnO NPs contents achieved by HR-CS-GFAAS were compared with the total Zn content obtained by acid digestion of the samples. A size comparison of the ZnO NPs was also carried out with the data obtained through the two methodologies and validated with transmission electron microscopy (TEM). In the case of TEM analysis, two different media were tried to study possible agglomerates and interactions between the particles and the matrix.
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Siqueira Andrade S, Faria AVDS, Augusto Sousa A, da Silva Ferreira R, Camargo NS, Corrêa Rodrigues M, Longo JPF. Hurdles in translating science from lab to market in delivery systems for Cosmetics: An industrial perspective. Adv Drug Deliv Rev 2024; 205:115156. [PMID: 38104897 DOI: 10.1016/j.addr.2023.115156] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/12/2023] [Revised: 12/01/2023] [Accepted: 12/09/2023] [Indexed: 12/19/2023]
Abstract
In recent decades, a sweeping technological wave has reshaped the global economic landscape. Fueled by the unceasing forces of digital innovation and venture capital investment, this transformative machine has left a significant mark across numerous economic sectors. More recently, the emergence of 'deep tech' start-ups, focusing on areas such as artificial intelligence, nanotechnology, and biotechnology, has infused a fresh wave of innovation into various sectors, including the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. This review explores the significance of innovation within the cosmetics sector, with a particular emphasis on delivery systems. It assesses the crucial process of bridging the gap between research and the market, particularly in the translation of nanotechnology into tangible real-world applications. With the rise of nanotechnology-based beauty ingredients, we can anticipate groundbreaking advancements that promise to surpass consumer expectations, ushering in a new era of unparalleled innovation in beauty products.
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Barbosa PA, Semenzim TB, Marques LM, Serpa ALDO, Yoshimine E, Tobo P. NEOS: An odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024; 46:51-61. [PMID: 37594727 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12894] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/15/2023] [Revised: 08/09/2023] [Accepted: 08/14/2023] [Indexed: 08/19/2023]
Abstract
This work proposes an odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry that relies on the approach that produced the UniGEOS, a universal odour-related emotional scale from the Swiss Center for Affective Sciences. The Natura Emotion and Odor Scale (NEOS) was built on experiments conducted with a larger set of participants (491) and a set of 35 scents that combine seven commercial perfumes from Natura & Co cosmetic company with 28 odours from different olfactory classes important for the cosmetic industry. The results showed the stability of 60 Emotion-Related terms in Brazilian Portuguese split into five emotion-related dimensions: Romance, Attention, Energy, Well-being and Negative feelings. The association of the scents evoking these five dimensions has direct implications in the design of new products.
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81
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Raggetti L. Stolen Horses and Scented Garments: Vegetal and Mineral Yellow in Arabic Technical Literature. AMBIX 2024; 71:35-72. [PMID: 38426270 PMCID: PMC11062290 DOI: 10.1080/00026980.2024.2311465] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 03/02/2024]
Abstract
Mediaeval Arabic technical literature shows a keen interest in yellow dyes, paints, varnishes, inks, and even perfumes. Recipes reveal that yellow was viewed as just one step away from gold, with preparations for these two colours often sharing ingredients and techniques. In the unfolding of procedures and applications to different materials, from skin to textiles, Arabic sources also offer a glimpse into daily life and shared tastes, presenting luxury objects along with their imitations. This paper traces the role played by yellow and gold in inks, cosmetic dyes, and coloured, scented fabrics, exploring the textual dimension of these recipes, their technical features, and their social role between the court and the street. It also presents translations of several important recipes for yellow and gold dyes, which illustrate their diversity of applications, while also addressing such material problems as durability and substitution.
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Vergnaud H, Charton Z, Blumenthal D, Couturaud V, Le Fur M, Loescher E, Caisey L, Gazano G. Lip color diversity: An intricate study. Skin Res Technol 2024; 30:e13583. [PMID: 38284291 PMCID: PMC10823443 DOI: 10.1111/srt.13583] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/29/2023] [Accepted: 12/04/2023] [Indexed: 01/30/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Lip investigations and characterizations in the literature are less prevalent than for skin, particularly on the topic of color diversity. However, as the consumer demand increases for a nude lip makeup result, that is, shades close to the bare lip color, the identification and modification of lip color is essential for the cosmetic industry. OBJECTIVE The objective was to highlight lip color diversity among three ethnicities (Caucasian, African and Hispanic), through the use of a spectral color measurement device especially adapted to the lip area, and to consider lip color ethnic specificities and overlaps. MATERIALS AND METHODS The inferior natural lip color was measured with a full-face hyperspectral imaging system, SpectraFace (Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France), on 410 healthy women aged 19 to 68 (Caucasian French, Caucasian American, African American, and Hispanic American women). A hierarchical ascending classification, was deployed to determine clusters based on the lip colorimetric parameters along two strategies to identify the best statistical analysis to preserve the lip color diversity. RESULTS Lip color is a continuous color space, with great intra-ethnic and inter-ethnic diversity, especially for African American women in terms of chroma and lightness. Among the two strategies of data analysis, our two-step statistical clustering analysis yielded 11 groups (i.e., 11 lip tones), revealing an accurate representation of the scope of diversity, but also of the overlaps. CONCLUSION The 11 lip tones/colors could potentially serve as target shades for the development of a more diverse and inclusive range of lip cosmetics, such as nude lipsticks.
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Wen J, Duan L, Wang B, Dong Q, Liu Y, Chen C, Huang J, Yu G. In-sewer stability assessment of 140 pharmaceuticals, personal care products, pesticides and their metabolites: Implications for wastewater-based epidemiology biomarker screening. ENVIRONMENT INTERNATIONAL 2024; 184:108465. [PMID: 38324926 DOI: 10.1016/j.envint.2024.108465] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/30/2023] [Revised: 01/27/2024] [Accepted: 01/29/2024] [Indexed: 02/09/2024]
Abstract
The monitoring of pharmaceuticals, personal care products (PCPs), pesticides, and their metabolites through wastewater-based epidemiology (WBE) provides timely information on pharmaceutical consumption patterns, chronic disease treatment rates, antibiotic usage, and exposure to harmful chemicals. However, before applying them for quantitative WBE back-estimation, it is necessary to understand their stability in the sewer system to screen suitable WBE biomarkers thereby reducing research uncertainty. This study investigated the in-sewer stability of 140 typical pharmaceuticals, PCPs, pesticides, and their metabolites across 15 subcategories, using a series of laboratory sewer sediment and biofilm reactors. For the first time, stability results for 89 of these compounds were reported. Among the 140 target compounds, 61 biomarkers demonstrated high stability in all sewer reactors, while 41 biomarkers were significantly removed merely by sediment processes. For biomarkers exhibiting notable attenuation, the influence of sediment processes was generally more pronounced than biofilm, due to its stronger microbial activities and more pronounced diffusion or adsorption processes. Adsorption emerged as the predominant factor causing biomarker removal compared to biodegradation and diffusion. Significantly different organic carbon-water partitioning coefficient (Koc) and distribution coefficient at pH = 7 (logD) values were observed between highly stable and unstable biomarkers, with most hydrophobic substances (Koc > 100 or logD > 2) displaying instability. In light of these findings, we introduced a primary biomarker screening process to efficiently exclude inappropriate candidates, achieving a commendable 77 % accuracy. Overall, this study represents the first comprehensive report on the in-sewer stability of 89 pharmaceuticals, PCPs, pesticides, and their metabolites, and provided crucial reference points for understanding the intricate sewer sediment processes.
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84
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Weiss V, Gobec M, Jakopin Ž. Halogenation of common phenolic household and personal care product ingredients enhances their AhR-modulating capacity. CHEMOSPHERE 2024; 350:141116. [PMID: 38182088 DOI: 10.1016/j.chemosphere.2024.141116] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/04/2023] [Revised: 12/14/2023] [Accepted: 01/02/2024] [Indexed: 01/07/2024]
Abstract
The Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR), a ligand-activated transcription factor, orchestrates responses to numerous structurally diverse endogenous and exogenous ligands. In addition to binding various xenobiotics, AhR also recognizes endocrine disruptors, particularly those featuring chlorinated or brominated aromatic structures. There is limited data available on the impact of common household and personal care product ingredients let alone their halogenated transformation products. Herein we bridge this knowledge gap by preparing a library of chlorinated and brominated parabens, bisphenols, UV filters, and nonylphenols. An evaluation of total of 125 compounds for agonistic and antagonistic activity on AhR unveiled a low micromolar agonist, Cl2BPAF with an EC50 of 13 μM. Moreover, our study identified several AhR antagonists, with BrBzP emerging as the most potent with an IC50 of 8.9 μM. To further investigate the functional implications of these compounds, we subjected the most potent agonist and antagonist to a functional assay involving cytokine secretion from peripheral blood mononuclear cells and compared their activity with the commercially available AhR agonist and antagonist. Cl2BPAF exhibited an overall immunosuppressive effect by reducing the secretion of proinflammatory cytokines, including IL-6, IFN-γ, and TNF-α, while BrBzP displayed opposite effects, leading to an increase of those cytokines. Notably, the immunomodulatory effects of Cl2BPAF surpassed those of ITE, a bona fide AhR agonist, while the impact of BrBzP exceeded that of CH223191, a bona fide AhR antagonist. In summary, our study underscores the potential influence of halogenated transformation products on the AhR pathway and, consequently, their role in shaping the immune responses.
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Goldberg M, Chang CJ, Ogunsina K, O’Brien KM, Taylor KW, White AJ, Sandler DP. Personal Care Product Use during Puberty and Incident Breast Cancer among Black, Hispanic/Latina, and White Women in a Prospective US-Wide Cohort. ENVIRONMENTAL HEALTH PERSPECTIVES 2024; 132:27001. [PMID: 38306193 PMCID: PMC10836586 DOI: 10.1289/ehp13882] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/25/2023] [Revised: 12/27/2023] [Accepted: 01/04/2024] [Indexed: 02/04/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Some personal care products (PCPs) contain endocrine-disrupting chemicals that may affect breast cancer (BC) risk. Patterns of use vary by race and ethnicity. Use often starts in adolescence, when rapidly developing breast tissue may be more susceptible to environmental carcinogens. Few studies have examined associations of BC with PCP use during this susceptible window. OBJECTIVES We characterized race and ethnicity-specific patterns of PCP use at 10-13 years of age and estimated associations of use with incident BC. METHODS At enrollment (2003-2009), Sister Study participants (n = 4,049 Black, 2,104 Latina, and 39,312 White women) 35-74 years of age reported use of 37 "everyday" PCPs during the ages of 10-13 y (did not use, sometimes, or frequently used). We conducted race and ethnicity-specific latent class analyses to separately identify groups of women with similar patterns of beauty, hair, and skincare/hygiene product use. We estimated hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) for associations of identified PCP classes and single products with incident BC using Cox proportional hazards regression. RESULTS During a mean follow-up time of 10.8 y, 280 Black, 128 Latina, and 3,137 White women were diagnosed with BC. Classes of adolescent PCP use were not clearly associated with BC diagnosis among Black, Latina, or White women. HRs were elevated but imprecise for frequent nail product and perfume use in Black women (HR = 1.34; 95% CI: 0.85, 2.12) and greater hair product use in Black (HR = 1.28; 95% CI: 0.91, 1.80) and Latina (HR = 1.42; 95% CI: 0.81, 2.48) women compared with lighter use. In single-product models, we observed higher BC incidence associated with frequent use of lipstick, nail products, pomade, perfume, makeup remover, and acne/blemish products in at least one group. DISCUSSION This work provides some support for the hypothesis that PCP use during puberty is associated with BC risk. More research is needed to confirm these novel findings. https://doi.org/10.1289/EHP13882.
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Sürgün E, Boyvat A. Increased rates of contact allergy to selected preservatives in patients with allergic contact dermatitis in Turkey. Contact Dermatitis 2024; 90:110-115. [PMID: 37840032 DOI: 10.1111/cod.14435] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/12/2023] [Revised: 08/28/2023] [Accepted: 09/29/2023] [Indexed: 10/17/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Preservatives are a frequent cause of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) and have caused numerous epidemics. OBJECTIVES The objective of this study is to determine the prevalence of preservative sensitivity, assess the change in the frequency of sensitivity, identify new preservatives with increased sensitivity rates, and evaluate the situation in Turkey by comparing our findings with current literature. METHODS A total of 201 patients diagnosed with ACD between 2018 and 2020, were patch tested with the European baseline series and additional seven preservative haptens. The change in the prevalence of sensitivity to each preservative hapten was investigated by comparing the data from the study conducted in our department between 2000 and 2004. RESULTS Results showed that 17.4% (n = 35) of the patients were positive to preservatives. Comparison with previous data from 2000 to 2004 revealed an increase in the frequency of sensitization. The most prevalent allergen was methyldibromo glutaronitrile (9.5%), followed by methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (6.5%), and methylisothiazolinone (5%). CONCLUSION The increase in preservative sensitivity in Turkey is the most remarkable finding. Although MDBGN was prohibited in cosmetic products, MCI/MI and MI are still widely used. Our findings suggest that awareness of preservative sensitivity should be increased and additional precautions should be taken, also in Turkey, regarding the use of preservatives.
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87
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Sergent JA, Nolde J, Weber K, Schuster TB, Moise V, Keller W, Franklin J. Comment on Balwierz et al. Potential Carcinogens in Makeup Cosmetics. Int. J. Environ. Res. Public Health 2023, 20, 4780. INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH AND PUBLIC HEALTH 2024; 21:160. [PMID: 38397651 PMCID: PMC10887717 DOI: 10.3390/ijerph21020160] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/20/2023] [Revised: 08/18/2023] [Accepted: 09/26/2023] [Indexed: 02/25/2024]
Abstract
The article by Balwierz et al [...].
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88
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Balwierz R, Biernat P, Jasińska-Balwierz A, Siodłak D, Kusakiewicz-Dawid A, Kurek-Górecka A, Olczyk P, Ochędzan-Siodłak W. Reply to Sergent et al. Comment on "Balwierz et al. Potential Carcinogens in Makeup Cosmetics. Int. J. Environ. Res. Public Health 2023, 20, 4780". INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH AND PUBLIC HEALTH 2024; 21:161. [PMID: 38397652 PMCID: PMC10887592 DOI: 10.3390/ijerph21020161] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/09/2023] [Revised: 08/24/2023] [Accepted: 09/26/2023] [Indexed: 02/25/2024]
Abstract
Comments by Sergent et al. (2023) [...].
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Abualhasan M, Naffa L, Alarda R, Zahi B, Amireh A, Al-Atrash M. Heavy metal and microbial testing of selected cosmetic products in the Palestinian market. JOURNAL OF ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE AND HEALTH. PART C, TOXICOLOGY AND CARCINOGENESIS 2024; 42:1-15. [PMID: 38060279 DOI: 10.1080/26896583.2023.2281199] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/08/2023]
Abstract
Excessive and continuous use of cosmetic products containing heavy metals can lead to harmful effects. International regulations mandate limited quantities of heavy metals contamination in cosmetic preparations to ensure consumer safety. This research aims to evaluate heavy metal and microbial contamination levels in selected cosmetic products available in the Palestinian market. We collected 35 samples randomly from 23 companies, representing four product types, and analyzed them for the presence of seven heavy metals: zinc (Zn), cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb), chromium (Cr), iron (Fe), copper (Cu), and arsenic (As) using an atomic absorption spectrometer. We also interviewed pharmacists who sold these cosmetics to assess their knowledge of allowed limits and toxic effects associated with increased heavy metal content in cosmetics. The results indicated that all tested products exceeded the allowed limit for Cd (9.5 ± 2.3 ppm), Cu (33.8 ± 9.2 ppm), and Zn (151.0 ± 7.4 ppm). However, none of the tested samples showed microbial contamination. These findings underscore the significant heavy metal contamination of cosmetics present in the Palestinian market. Thus, there is a pressing need to register and quality-test all cosmetic products sold in the Palestinian market and to raise the pharmacists' awareness and knowledge regarding heavy metals in cosmetics.
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90
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Du XN, He Y, Chen YW, Liu Q, Sun L, Sun HM, Wu XF, Lu Y. Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology. Molecules 2024; 29:411. [PMID: 38257324 PMCID: PMC10818968 DOI: 10.3390/molecules29020411] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/05/2023] [Revised: 01/08/2024] [Accepted: 01/13/2024] [Indexed: 01/24/2024] Open
Abstract
Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.
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Huang K, Si Y, Wu H, Chen Y, Zhang S, Shi S, Guo C, Hu J. Electrosprayed Environment-Friendly Dry Triode-Like Facial Masks for Skincare. ACS APPLIED MATERIALS & INTERFACES 2024; 16:1899-1910. [PMID: 38146149 DOI: 10.1021/acsami.3c15815] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/27/2023]
Abstract
The cosmetics industry has a worrying impact on the environment, including the plastics used in products and packaging and environmentally unfriendly additives. In this study, we present an environment-friendly triode-like facial mask (TFM) that utilizes only green and degradable raw materials, nontoxic and harmless solvents, and electric energy to achieve distinct switchable directional water transport properties, avoids a wet storage environment, and reduces excessive packaging. The TFM demonstrates droplet stability when not in contact with the skin while facilitating rapid liquid transfer (15 μL) within durations of 2.8 s (dry skin) and 1.9 s (moist skin) upon contact. We elucidate the underlying mechanism behind this triode-like behavior, emphasizing the synergistic interaction of the wettability gradient, Gibbs pinning, and additional circumferential capillary force. Moreover, the TFM exhibits a reduction in the proportion of aging cells, decreasing from 44.33 to 13.75%, while simultaneously providing antibacterial and skin-beautifying effects. The TFM brings a novel experience while also holding the potential to reduce environmental pollution in the production, packaging, use, and recycling of cosmetics products.
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92
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Yue L, Song L, Zhu S, Fu X, Li X, He C, Li J. Machine learning assisted rational design of antimicrobial peptides based on human endogenous proteins and their applications for cosmetic preservative system optimization. Sci Rep 2024; 14:947. [PMID: 38200054 PMCID: PMC10781772 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-023-50832-8] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/25/2023] [Accepted: 12/26/2023] [Indexed: 01/12/2024] Open
Abstract
Preservatives are essential components in cosmetic products, but their safety issues have attracted widespread attention. There is an urgent need for safe and effective alternatives. Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) are part of the innate immune system and have potent antimicrobial properties. Using machine learning-assisted rational design, we obtained a novel antibacterial peptide, IK-16-1, with significant antibacterial activity and maintaining safety based on β-defensins. IK-16-1 has broad-spectrum antimicrobial properties against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans, and has no haemolytic activity. The use of IK-16-1 holds promise in the cosmetics industry, since it can serve as a preservative synergist to reduce the amount of other preservatives in cosmetics. This study verified the feasibility of combining computational design with artificial intelligence prediction to design AMPs, achieving rapid screening and reducing development costs.
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HU B, LI L, DING X, LIU H, HUANG W, LÜ W, LI X. [Rapid determination of 87 prohibited ingredients in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry]. Se Pu 2024; 42:38-51. [PMID: 38197205 PMCID: PMC10782276 DOI: 10.3724/sp.j.1123.2023.04012] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/12/2023] [Indexed: 01/11/2024] Open
Abstract
The methods of detecting numerous prohibited components are not included in the Technical Specifications for Cosmetic Safety (2015 Edition). Recently, owing to its high speed, sensitivity, and anti-interference properties, ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) became the preferred method of detecting banned substances in cosmetics. In this study, a UPLC-MS/MS method was developed for use in determining 87 prohibited ingredients in cosmetics, including 33 sex hormones, 20 anti-infective drugs, 15 antihistamines, 7 coumarins, 4 sedative-hypnotic drugs, 4 antipyretic and analgesic drugs, 2 allergenic fragrances, and 2 drugs with vasoconstriction effects. The main factors affecting the response, recovery, and sensitivity of the method, such as the type of extraction solvent, extraction time, ratio of the mobile phases, and MS conditions, were optimized during sample pretreatment and instrumental analysis. Accordingly, approximately 0.2 g of the toner or cream sample was dispersed in 2 mL acetonitrile in a 10 mL colorimetric tube. After diluting to 10 mL with 50% acetonitrile aqueous solution, the sample was ultrasonically extracted for 20 min and centrifuged, and the mixture was then filtered through a 0.22 μm membrane. Approximately 0.2 g of the oil sample was dispersed in 2 mL n-hexane in a 15 mL polypropylene centrifuge tube and extracted twice with 3 mL 70% acetonitrile aqueous solution. The extracts were transferred into a 10 mL colorimetric tube and diluted to 10 mL with 50% acetonitrile aqueous solution, and the mixture was then filtered through a 0.22 μm membrane. The samples were separated using a CORTECS C18 column (150 mm×2.1 mm, 2.7 μm), employing a gradient elution program with acetonitrile and 0.1% formic acid aqueous solution as the mobile phases. The flow rate, column temperature, and injection volume were respectively set at 0.3 mL/min, 40 ℃, and 2 μL. The 87 compounds were monitored in multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode with electrospray ionization (ESI) under positive and negative conditions. Matrix-matched external standard calibration was used for quantification, and the analysis was completed within 33 min. The prohibited compounds exhibited good linear relationships, with r values of >0.99, and the limits of detection (LODs) and quantification (LOQs) for the 87 compounds were 0.07-0.38 and 0.21-1.15 μg/g, respectively. Three types of cosmetic matrices were selected to verify the recovery and precision of the method at LOQ, 2 LOQ, and 10 LOQ levels. The average recoveries of the 87 prohibited compounds were in the range of 81.7%-115.4%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=6) were 0.4%-9.9%. The reliability of the developed method was demonstrated by applying it to 349 commercial cosmetics obtained from the market, and 8 positive samples were identified. The positive components included trimethoprim, terbinafine, naphazoline, 7-methoxycoumarin, and 7-methylcoumarin. The established method displays the advantages of simple operation and rapidness and a high sensitivity and good recovery. And, this method provides technical support for rapid risk screening and the revision of national standards for cosmetics.
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SUN H, ZHANG B, CUI D, DONG B, WANG H, HU G. [Determination of 145 pharmaceuticals and personal care products in eleven categories in water by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole mass spectrometry]. Se Pu 2024; 42:24-37. [PMID: 38197204 PMCID: PMC10782274 DOI: 10.3724/sp.j.1123.2023.04004] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/05/2023] [Indexed: 01/11/2024] Open
Abstract
Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are emerging contaminants frequently detected in aquatic environments at trace levels. These chemicals have diverse structures and physicochemical properties and includes pharmaceuticals like antibiotics, antihypertensive drugs, antiviral drugs, and psychotropic drugs that are widely used in large quantities worldwide. Considering the large number of pharmaceuticals currently in usage, it is crucial to establish a priority list of PPCPs that should be monitored and/or treated first. An accurate understanding of the occurrence and levels of PPCPs in aquatic environments is essential for providing objective materials for monitoring these emerging contaminants. Therefore, accurate, efficient, sensitive, and high-throughput screening techniques need to be established for determining and quantifying PPCPs. This study developed a method for the determination of 145 PPCPs (grouped into eleven categories: antibiotics, antihypertensive drugs, antidiabetic drugs, antiviral drugs, β-receptor agonists, nitroimidazoles, H2 receptor antagonists, psychotropic drugs, hypolipidemic drugs, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, and others) in water. The method was based on large volume direct injection without sample enrichment and cleanup and used ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/MS). Water samples were collected and filtered through a 0.22-μm regenerated cellulose (RC) filter membrane. Subsequently, Na2EDTA was added to the samples to adjust their pH to 6.0-8.0. Internal standards were mixed with the solutions, and because of the addition of Na2EDTA, the interference of metal ions could be eliminated in the determination of compounds, especially for tetracycline and quinolone antibiotics. Among the six filter membranes tested in this study (PES, PFTE-Q, PFTE, MCE, GHP, and RC), RC filter membranes were screened for water sample filtration. The UHPLC-MS/MS parameters were optimized by comparing the results of various mobile phases, as well as by establishing the best instrumental conditions. The 145 PPCPs were separated using an Phenomenex Kinetex C18 column (50 mm×3 mm, 2.6 μm) via gradient elution. The mobile phases were 0.1% (v/v) formic acid aqueous solution containing 5 mmol/L ammonium formate and acetonitrile for positive ion modes, 5 mmol/L aqueous solutions of ammonium formate and acetonitrile for negative ion modes. The samples were quantified using the scheduled multiple reaction monitoring (scheduled-MRM) mode with electrospray ionization in positive and negative ion modes. A standard internal calibration procedure was used to calculate contents of sample. The established method was systematically verified, and it demonstrated a good linear relationship. The average recoveries of the 145 PPCPs at the three spiked levels were in the range of 80.4%-128% with relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=6) of 0.6%-15.6%. The method detection limits (MDLs) ranged from 0.015 to 5.515 ng/L. Finally, the optimization method was applied to analyze the 145 PPCPs in 11 surface water samples and 6 drinking water samples. Overall, 93 (64%) out of the 145 analytes were detected. The total contents of the PPCPs in surface water samples ranged from 276.9 to 2705.7 ng/L. The detection frequencies of antidiabetic, antiviral, and psychotropic drugs were 100%. The total contents of the PPCPs in drinking water samples ranged from 140.5 to 211.5 ng/L, and antibiotics, antidiabetic drugs, and antiviral drugs comprised the largest proportion of analytes (by mass concentration) in drinking water samples. Our method exhibited high analytical speed and high sensitivity. It is thus suitable for the trace analysis and determination of the 145 PPCPs in environmental water and showed improved detection efficiency for PPCPs in water, indicating that it has a high potential for practical applications. This study can extend technical support for further pollution-level analysis of PPCPs in water and provide an objective basis for environmental management.
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HAN W, LIU T, WANG L, HOU X, CAO J. [Determination of 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry]. Se Pu 2024; 42:75-83. [PMID: 38197208 PMCID: PMC10782272 DOI: 10.3724/sp.j.1123.2023.04010] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/13/2023] [Indexed: 01/11/2024] Open
Abstract
Most preservatives are irritating and can easily induce skin sensitivities. Therefore, both domestic and international regulations impose clear restrictions on the use of preservatives in cosmetics. Herein, gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was employed to simultaneously analyze the levels of 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. Further, a precise identification approach based on a two-column retention index and mass spectrometry matching degree was developed. Cosmetic samples were extracted via acetonitrile vortex ultrasound extraction and then dehydrated with anhydrous MgSO4. The preservative allergens were separated on two columns, namely, DB-5MS and DB-WAX. Targets were identified using electron impact ionization (EI) source and the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode and characterized using a retention index calibrated by a series of n-alkane standards. Following two tests, the LODs for the 15 preservative allergens on the DB-5MS column were in the range of 0.02-0.2 mg/kg, while those for 12 preservative allergens on the DB-WAX column were in the range of 0.01-20 mg/kg. The preservative allergens on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns demonstrated strong correlations, with all correlation coefficients exceeding 0.99. The recoveries for the 15 preservative allergens were in the range of 70.1%-129.8% at low, medium, and high levels, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) were all below 15% (n=6) when using water, lotion, facial mask, and cream as the representative matrix. Next, 80 batches of genuine samples were tested using the established method. Isopropyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, a prohibited preservative, was detected in two sample batches using the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns. Additionally, 11 and 10 restricted preservative allergens were identified on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns, respectively. The test results indicate that the double-column system approach offers excellent accuracy, effectively preventing false-positive and false-negative results, and can detect the 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. The use of the retention index for the qualitative detection of these preservative allergens offers valuable options for non-targeted screening and meeting regulatory criteria.
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Udayanga L, Subashini N, Udugama M, Silva P, Ranathunge T. Knowledge, perceptions, and consumption behaviour of cosmetics among undergraduates of Sri Lanka: a descriptive cross-sectional study. Front Public Health 2024; 11:1184398. [PMID: 38288434 PMCID: PMC10824240 DOI: 10.3389/fpubh.2023.1184398] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/11/2023] [Accepted: 12/13/2023] [Indexed: 01/31/2024] Open
Abstract
Background Despite the increasing usage of personal care products among young adolescents in Sri Lanka, limited studies have been conducted to understand the behaviour of cosmetic users and associated health complications. Therefore, the current study was conducted to evaluate the cosmetic consumption related behaviour of the undergraduate community in Sri Lanka and to identify the driving factors behind the incidences of cosmetic related adverse health effects. Method An analytical cross-sectional study was conducted by recruiting 421 undergraduates from five state universities in Sri Lanka through stratified random sampling, as the study population. Information on socio-demographic factors and cosmetic consumption behaviour of the participants were acquired through a self-administrated structured questionnaire, along with Knowledge, Attitudes and Practices (KAP) relevant for cosmetic usage. The Binary Logistic Regression model was used to determine the significant socio-demographic driving factors on cosmetic usage among the undergraduate community in Sri Lanka at a confidence level of 95%. Results Around 96.4% of the study population used one or more cosmetic products (77%) out of which, 75.3% experienced cosmetic related adverse health effects. Skin dryness (24%), acne (21%), allergies (20.5%) and rashes (19.8%), were identified as the most dominant adverse health effects, related to cosmetic usage. Perfumes (65.6%), face cream (63.2%) and body lotion/hand cream (60.6%), were the mostly used cosmetic products. Even though half of the study population exhibited higher levels of good practices during purchase (54.9%) and application (52%) of cosmetics, around 47.5% were characterized with a low level of knowledge on cosmetics. Gender, academic year, knowledge on cosmetics, monthly expenditure on cosmetics, source of recommendation for cosmetics, practices related to purchase and consumption of cosmetics and preference to receive medical care in case of cosmetic related emergency were recognized as significant risk factors (p < 0.05) associated with the incidence of cosmetic related adverse health effects among undergraduate students. Conclusion Given the high prevalence of cosmetic related adverse health effects, the health authorities of Sri Lanka should pay more attention towards the wellbeing and responsible cosmetic usage among undergraduates. Designing of effective tools and regulations to monitor the cosmetic market and improving the knowledge on cosmetics are recommended to ensure safe cosmetic usage within the country in general and of adolescent users in particular.
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Gangane P, Sharma V, Selokar M, Vidhate D, Pawar K, Mahajan N. A Review of Anti-Inflammatory Phytoconstituents Used in Herbal Cosmeceuticals for the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis. Curr Drug Deliv 2024; 21:312-325. [PMID: 37183468 DOI: 10.2174/1567201820666230512110344] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/07/2022] [Revised: 11/09/2022] [Accepted: 12/06/2022] [Indexed: 05/16/2023]
Abstract
Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis affect babies, children, and adults and are characterized by red skin/spots, severe itching that appears on the face, head, legs, neck, and hands, and various causes of illness caused by various external and internal factors. AD is a type IIgE-mediated hypersensitivity reaction. Herbal preparations treat various dermatological diseases like dry skin, melasma, acne, and eczema. Cosmeceuticals are the connection between cosmetics and medicine, one of the world's most used forms of medicine. Cosmeceuticals products are beneficial in treating AD. Herbal cosmetics play a major role in curing various skin diseases. Today, various herbs used in cosmeceuticals have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antiseptic effects. Compared to synthetic preparations, herbal preparations have fewer side effects. This review paper introduces Atopic dermatitis, cosmeceutical, and various phytoconstituents like gallic acid, ferulic acid, boswellic acid, quercetin, and naringenin tetra hydroxyl flavanol glycoside, glycyrrhizic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, etc., used in atopic dermatitis.
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Couteau C, Philippe A, Galharret JM, Metay E, Coiffard L. UV filters in everyday cosmetic products, a comparative study. ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE AND POLLUTION RESEARCH INTERNATIONAL 2024; 31:2976-2986. [PMID: 38079041 DOI: 10.1007/s11356-023-31330-w] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/05/2023] [Accepted: 11/28/2023] [Indexed: 01/18/2024]
Abstract
Today, UV filters are found as contaminants in a variety of biological fluids and environment, e.g. in vegetable crops and surface water. This is because UV filters are widely used in everyday products. In this context, we focused this study on cosmetic products, in order to assess the importance of this source of contamination. The study of 742 cosmetic products, excluding actual sunscreen products, but including hygiene, personal care and make-up products and perfumes revealed that the most common UV filters present are butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (90 products or 12.1% of products tested), octyl methoxycinnamate (75 products or 10.1% of products tested), octocrylene (62 products or 8.3% of products tested), octyl salicylate (43 products or 5.8% of products tested) and titanium dioxide (33 products or 4.4% of products tested). Very few UV filters are found in the hygiene products (only in 12 shampoos/conditioners and in 2 shower gels) and deodorants and toothpastes are completely free of them. Conversely, make-up and perfumes are frequently formulated with at least one UV filter. Seventy-five of the two hundred and forty-four (or 30.7%) skincare products studied contained at least one UV filter. 49.1 of the makeup products studied and 74.3% of perfumes contained it.
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Arora R, Kaur R, Babbar R, Dhingra S, Dhingra AK, Grewal AS. Evolving Advances in the Cosmetic use of Probiotics and Postbiotics: Health, Regulatory and Marketing Aspects. Curr Pharm Biotechnol 2024; 25:1349-1361. [PMID: 37403398 DOI: 10.2174/1389201024666230703115732] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/27/2023] [Revised: 05/03/2023] [Accepted: 05/26/2023] [Indexed: 07/06/2023]
Abstract
Ongoing development in cosmetics is increasingly making use of probiotics, which are defined as "live microorganisms with health-enhancing properties mediated through ingestion or topical application to the host". The observation that several bacterial strains augment normal processes of healthy tissue maintenance, particularly for the skin, has opened up new avenues for the use of bacterial strains in cosmetics. A principal feature of such "cosmeceuticals" is an application of increasing insight into the biochemical nature of the skin's normal microbial flora, also called its microbiome. The opportunity of manipulating the skin microbiome to address various skin disorders has revealed novel routes for treatment. The skin microbiome manipulation approaches to address various skin disorders include skin microbiome transplantation, skin bacteriotherapy, and prebiotic stimulation. Research in this field has revealed that medical outcome-targeted manipulation of skin microbiome bacterial strain makeup may significantly increase skin health and appearance. Commercial availability of probiotic skincare products is rapidly expanding worldwide due to satisfactory laboratory results and public perception of probiotics as being intrinsically more wholesome than other bioactive substances, such as synthetics. Major outcomes of probiotic use include a significant reduction in skin wrinkling, acne and other conditions adversely affecting skin appearance and healthy function. Moreover, probiotics may additionally promote normal skin hydration, resulting in a vibrant and lustrous appearance. Nevertheless, significant technical challenges remain for the full optimization of probiotics in cosmetic products. This article summarizes the evolving nature of this field and explores current probiotic research initiatives, along with regulatory aspects and significant challenges in the manufacturing of cosmetics in the context of market expansion for these products.
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Landau M, Landau SB. Hacking the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients List- How to Read Ingredients in Cosmetic Products and What Is Important for a Dermatologist to Know? Dermatol Clin 2024; 42:7-11. [PMID: 37977687 DOI: 10.1016/j.det.2023.06.006] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/19/2023]
Abstract
Skin specialists and practitioners are commonly requested to recommend on cosmetic products to improve skin appearance and address certain "non-medical" concerns. During residency and further education, dermatologists rarely expand their knowledge regarding cosmetic ingredients, except if they are a cause of medical condition or disease, such as contact dermatitis. This review provides guidelines to the INCI list structure, together with basic principles of cosmetic products formulation.
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