Phytosphingosine Increases Biosynthesis of Phytoceramide by Uniquely Stimulating the Expression of Dihydroceramide C4-desaturase (DES2) in Cultured Human Keratinocytes

Skin hydration modulatory activities of Ficus deltoidea extract

Ficus deltoidea was known for its potent antioxidant, anti-melanogenic and photoprotective skin barrier activities. These properties are contributed by its biomarkers which are vitexin and isovitexin. This study aims to optimize the yield of methanolic extraction of Ficus deltoidea leaves (EFD) and evaluate their effects on skin barrier function and hydration. For optimization, Box-Behnken design was utilized to investigate the effects of methanol concentration, sonication time, and solvent-to-sample ratio on the yields of vitexin and isovitexin in EFD. The optimal yields obtained were 32.29 mg/g for vitexin and 35.87 mg/g for isovitexin. The optimum extraction conditions were 77.66% methanol concentration, 20.03 min sonication time, and 19.88 mL/g solvent-to-sample ratio. The quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction was utilized to measure variant marker genes of transglutaminase-1, caspase 14, ceramide synthase 3, involucrin, and filaggrin of EFD-induced keratinocyte differentiation by in vitro study. Exposure to EFD has elevated the mRNA levels of all tested marker genes by 0.7-9.2 folds. Then, in vivo efficacy study was conducted on 20 female subjects for 14 days to evaluate skin biophysical assessment of hydration. EFD topical formulation treatment successfully increased skin hydration on day 7 (43.74%) and day 14 (47.23%). In silico study by molecular docking was performed to identify intermolecular binding interactions of vitexin and isovitexin with the interested proteins of tested marker genes. The result of molecular docking to the interested proteins revealed a similar trend with real-time PCR data. In conclusion, EFD potentially enhanced the skin barrier function and hydration of human skin cells.

Ceramide NPs Derived from Natural Oils of Korean Traditional Plants Enhance Skin Barrier Functions and Stimulate Expressions of Genes for Epidermal Homeostasis

BACKGROUND

New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine(PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids AIMS: To investigate signaling bioactivities of HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin.

METHODS

The expressions of genes related with epidermal differentiation was analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect of TEWL and SC cohesion.

RESULTS

The HP-C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14 and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil-derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18-CER NP had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP-C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18-CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP was also observed.

CONCLUSION

Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP-C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP and other oil-derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier.

The noncanonical chronicles: Emerging roles of sphingolipid structural variants

Sphingolipids (SPs) are structurally diverse and represent one of the most quantitatively abundant classes of lipids in mammalian cells. In addition to their structural roles, many SP species are known to be bioactive mediators of essential cellular processes. Historically, studies have focused on SP species that contain the canonical 18‑carbon, mono-unsaturated sphingoid backbone. However, increasingly sensitive analytical technologies, driven by advances in mass spectrometry, have facilitated the identification of previously under-appreciated, molecularly distinct SP species. Many of these less abundant species contain noncanonical backbones. Interestingly, a growing number of studies have identified clinical associations between these noncanonical SPs and disease, suggesting that there is functional significance to the alteration of SP backbone structure. For example, associations have been found between SP chain length and cardiovascular disease, pain, diabetes, and dementia. This review will provide an overview of the processes that are known to regulate noncanonical SP accumulation, describe the clinical correlations reported for these molecules, and review the experimental evidence for the potential functional implications of their dysregulation. It is likely that further scrutiny of noncanonical SPs may provide new insight into pathophysiological processes, serve as useful biomarkers for disease, and lead to the design of novel therapeutic strategies.

Contribution of Palmitic Acid to Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

The outermost barrier layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. Biosynthesis of barrier lipids occurs de novo in the epidermis or is performed with externally derived lipids. Hence, in vitro developed human skin equivalents (HSEs) are developed with culture medium that is supplemented with free fatty acids (FFAs). Nevertheless, the lipid barrier formation in HSEs remains altered compared to native human skin (NHS). The aim of this study is to decipher the role of medium supplemented saturated FFA palmitic acid (PA) on morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, HSEs were developed with 100% (25 μM), 10%, or 1% PA. In HSEs supplemented with reduced PA level, the early differentiation was delayed and epidermal activation was increased. Nevertheless, a similar SC lipid composition in all HSEs was detected. Additionally, the lipid organization was comparable for lamellar and lateral organization, irrespective of PA concentration. As compared to NHS, the level of monounsaturated lipids was increased and the FFA to ceramide ratio was drastically reduced in HSEs. This study describes the crucial role of PA in epidermal morphogenesis and elucidates the role of PA in lipid barrier formation of HSEs.

Biosynthesis of long chain base in sphingolipids in animals, plants and fungi

Long chain base (LCB) is a unique building block found in sphingolipids. The initial step of LCB biosynthesis stems from serine:palmitoyl-CoA transferase enzyme, producing 3-ketodihydrosphingosine with multiple regulatory proteins including small subunit SPT a/b and orosomucoid-like protein1-3. 3-Ketodihydrosphingosine reductase and sphingolipid Δ4-desaturase, both of them poorly characterized mammalian enzymes, play key roles for neurological homeostasis based on their pathogenic mutation in humans. Ceramide synthase in mammals has six isoforms with distinct phenotype in each knockout mouse. In plants and fungi, sphingolipids also contain phytosphingosine due to sphingolipid C4-hydroxylase. In contrast to previous notion that dietary intake might be its major route in animals, emerging evidences suggested that phytosphingosine biosynthesis does occur in some tissues such as the skin by mammalian C4-hydroxylase activity of the DEGS2 gene. This short review summarizes LCB biosynthesis with their associating metabolic pathways in animals, plants and fungi.

Sphingolipid is a group of lipids that contains a unique building block known as long chain base (LCB). LCB is susceptible to various biosynthetic reactions such as unsaturation, hydroxylation and methylation. A failure of these enzymatic reactions leads to the pathogenesis in humans with an elevation of LCB-derived specific biomarkers. Herein, we summarized emerging evidences in mammalian LCB biosynthesis in sphingolipids. Some unique metabolic pathways in plants and fungi were also discussed.