Environmental Toxicity (Q)SARs for Polymers as an Emerging Class of Materials in Regulatory Frameworks, with a Focus on Challenges and Possibilities Regarding Cationic Polymers

Environmental hazard of cationic polymers relevant in personal and consumer care products: A critical review

Historically, polymers have been excluded from registration and evaluation under the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) program, the European chemical management program. Recently, interest has increased to include polymers. A tiered registration system has been envisioned and would begin with classes of polymers of greater interest based on certain properties. Cationic polymers are one such class. There is a pressing need to understand the quality and limitations of historical cationic polymer studies and to identify key sources of uncertainty in environmental hazard assessments so we can move toward scientifically robust analyses. To that end, we performed a critical review of the existing cationic polymer environmental effects literature to evaluate polymer characterization and test methodologies to understand how these parameters may affect test interpretation. The relationship between physicochemical parameters, acute and chronic toxicity, and relative trophic level sensitivity were explored. To advance our understanding of the environmental hazard and subsequent risk characterization of cationic polymers, there is a clear need for a consistent testing approach as many polymers are characterized as difficult-to-test substances. Experimental parameters such as dissolved organic carbon and solution renewal approaches can alter cationic polymer bioavailability and toxicity. It is recommended that OECD TG 23 "Aqueous-Phase Aquatic Toxicity Testing of Difficult Test Substances" testing considerations be applied when conducting environmental toxicity assays with cationic polymers. Integr Environ Assess Manag 2023;19:312-325. © 2021 SETAC.

Understanding Ecotoxicological Responses of Fish Embryos and Gill Cells to Cationic Polymers

Cationic polymers are considered by the scientific and regulatory communities as a group of greater interest amongst the polymers in commerce. As a category, relatively little hazard information is available in the public literature. Very few examples exist of published, high-quality polymer characterization and quantification of exposure. In the present study we describe a series of fish embryo toxicity (FET) and fish gill cytotoxicity assays used to establish a baseline understanding of several representative polyquaternium categories (PQ-6, PQ-10, PQ-16) in animal alternative models, accompanied by high-quality analytical characterization. Materials were chosen to encompass a range of molecular weights and charge densities to determine the influence of test material characteristics on toxicity. Both chorionated and dechorionated FET assays were generally similar to published acute fish toxicity data. Toxicity was correlated with cationic polymer charge density, and not with molecular weight, and was a combination of physical effects and likely toxicity at the site of action. Toxicity could be ameliorated by humic acid in a dose-dependent manner. Fish gill cytotoxicity results were orders of magnitude less sensitive than FET test responses. Environ Toxicol Chem 2022;41:2259-2272. © 2022 SETAC.

A plea for the integration of Green Toxicology in sustainable bioeconomy strategies - Biosurfactants and microgel-based pesticide release systems as examples

A key aspect of the transformation of the economic sector towards a sustainable bioeconomy is the development of environmentally friendly alternatives for hitherto used chemicals, which have negative impacts on environmental health. However, the implementation of an ecotoxicological hazard assessment at early steps of product development to elaborate the most promising candidates of lowest harm is scarce in industry practice. The present article introduces the interdisciplinary proof-of-concept project GreenToxiConomy, which shows the successful application of a Green Toxicology strategy for biosurfactants and a novel microgel-based pesticide release system. Both groups are promising candidates for industrial and agricultural applications and the ecotoxicological characterization is yet missing important information. An iterative substance- and application-oriented bioassay battery for acute and mechanism-specific toxicity within aquatic and terrestrial model species is introduced for both potentially hazardous materials getting into contact with humans and ending up in the environment. By applying in silico QSAR-based models on genotoxicity, endocrine disruption, skin sensitization and acute toxicity to algae, daphnids and fish, individual biosurfactants resulted in deviating toxicity, suggesting a pre-ranking of the compounds. Experimental toxicity assessment will further complement the predicted toxicity to elaborate the most promising candidates in an efficient pre-screening of new substances.

Surface science of cosmetic substrates, cleansing actives and formulations

The development of shampoo and cleansing formulations in cosmetics is at a crossroads due to consumer demands for better performing, more natural products and also the strong commitment of cosmetic companies to improve the sustainability of cosmetic products. In order to go beyond traditional formulations, it is of great importance to clearly establish the science behind cleansing technologies and appreciate the specificity of cleansing biological surfaces such as hair and skin. In this review, we present recent advances in our knowledge of the physicochemical properties of the hair surface from both an experimental and a theoretical point of view. We discuss the opportunities and challenges that newer, sustainable formulations bring compared to petroleum-based ingredients. The inevitable evolution towards more bio-based, eco-friendly ingredients and sustainable formulations requires a complete rethink of many well-known physicochemical principles. The pivotal role of digital sciences and modelling in the understanding and conception of new ingredients and formulations is discussed. We describe recent numerical approaches that take into account the specificities of the hair surface in terms of structuration, different methods that study the adsorption of formulation ingredients and finally the success of new data-driven approaches. We conclude with practical examples on current formulation efforts incorporating bio-surfactants, controlling foaming and searching for new rheological properties.