Structural Hierarchy of Trichocyte Keratin Intermediate Filaments

Convergent Evolution of Cysteine-Rich Keratins in Horny Teeth of Jawless Vertebrates and in Cornified Skin Appendages of Amniotes

Cornified skin appendages, such as claws and hair, of amniotes consist of keratins with high numbers of cysteine residues, which serve as sites of protein cross-linking through disulfide bonds. Here, we show by proteomic analysis that cysteine-rich keratins are also components of the horny teeth of the sea lamprey (Petromyzon marinus), a jawless vertebrate. The cysteine-rich keratins of the lamprey are conserved in hagfish, which diverged from lampreys around 460 million years ago. Phylogenetic analysis confirmed the orthology of the cysteine-rich keratins of lampreys and hagfish (cyclostomes) and showed that cysteine-rich keratins of amniotes belong to different clades of keratins. We conclude that keratins with elevated cysteine content evolved not only in amniotes but also, and much earlier, in jawless vertebrates. The convergent evolution of a high abundance of cysteine residues is in line with a critical role of intermolecular disulfide bonds in hard epithelial structures of vertebrates.

Nanomaterials in hair care and treatment

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment.

Keratin intermediate filament chains in the European common wall lizard (Podarcis muralis) and a potential keratin filament crosslinker

On the basis of sequence homology with mammalian α-keratins, and on the criteria that the coiled-coil segments and central linker in the rod domain of these molecules must have conserved lengths if they are to assemble into viable intermediate filaments, a total of 28 Type I and Type II keratin intermediate filament chains (KIF) have been identified from the genome of the European common wall lizard (Podarcis muralis). Using the same criteria this number may be compared to 33 found here in the green anole lizard (Anole carolinensis) and 25 in the tuatara (Sphenodon punctatus). The Type I and Type II KIF genes in the wall lizard fall in clusters on chromosomes 13 and 2 respectively. Although some differences occur in the terminal domains in the KIF chains of the two lizards and tuatara, the similarities between key indicator residues - cysteine, glycine and proline - are significant. The terminal domains of the KIF chains in the wall lizard also contain sequence repeats commonly based on glycine and large apolar residues and would permit the fine tuning of physical properties when incorporated within the intermediate filaments. The H1 domain in the Type II chain is conserved across the lizards, tuatara and mammals, and has been related to its role in assembly at the 2-4 molecule level. A KIF-like chain (K80) with an extensive tail domain comprised of multiple tandem repeats has been identified as having a potential filament-crosslinking role.

Vertebrate keratinization evolved into cornification mainly due to transglutaminase and sulfhydryl oxidase activities on epidermal proteins: An immunohistochemical survey

The epidermis of vertebrates forms an extended organ to protect and exchange gas, water, and organic molecules with aquatic and terrestrial environments. Herein, the processes of keratinization and cornification in aquatic and terrestrial vertebrates were compared using immunohistochemistry. Keratins with low cysteine and glycine contents form the main bulk of proteins in the anamniote epidermis, which undergoes keratinization. In contrast, specialized keratins rich in cysteine-glycine and keratin associated corneous proteins rich in cysteine, glycine, and tyrosine form the bulk of proteins of amniote soft cornification in the epidermis and hard cornification in scales, claws, beak, feathers, hairs, and horns. Transglutaminase (TGase) and sulfhydryl oxidase (SOXase) are the main enzymes involved in cornification. Their evolution was fundamental for the terrestrial adaptation of vertebrates. Immunohistochemistry results revealed that TGase and SOXase were low to absent in fish and amphibian epidermis, while they increased in the epidermis of amniotes with the evolution of the stratum corneum and skin appendages. TGase aids the formation of isopeptide bonds, while SOXase forms disulfide bonds that generate numerous cross-links between keratins and associated corneous proteins, likely increasing the mechanical resistance and durability of the amniote epidermis and its appendages. TGase is low to absent in the beta-corneous layers of sauropsids but is detected in the softer but pliable alpha-layers of sauropsids, mammalian epidermis, medulla, and inner root sheath of hairs. SOXase is present in hard and soft corneous appendages of reptiles, birds, and mammals, and determines cross-linking among corneous proteins of scales, claws, beaks, hairs, and feathers.

Structures of the ß-Keratin Filaments and Keratin Intermediate Filaments in the Epidermal Appendages of Birds and Reptiles (Sauropsids)

The epidermal appendages of birds and reptiles (the sauropsids) include claws, scales, and feathers. Each has specialized physical properties that facilitate movement, thermal insulation, defence mechanisms, and/or the catching of prey. The mechanical attributes of each of these appendages originate from its fibril-matrix texture, where the two filamentous structures present, i.e., the corneous ß-proteins (CBP or ß-keratins) that form 3.4 nm diameter filaments and the α-fibrous molecules that form the 7-10 nm diameter keratin intermediate filaments (KIF), provide much of the required tensile properties. The matrix, which is composed of the terminal domains of the KIF molecules and the proteins of the epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) (and which include the terminal domains of the CBP), provides the appendages, with their ability to resist compression and torsion. Only by knowing the detailed structures of the individual components and the manner in which they interact with one another will a full understanding be gained of the physical properties of the tissues as a whole. Towards that end, newly-derived aspects of the detailed conformations of the two filamentous structures will be discussed and then placed in the context of former knowledge.

Convergent Evolution of Cysteine-Rich Keratins in Hard Skin Appendages of Terrestrial Vertebrates

Terrestrial vertebrates have evolved hard skin appendages, such as scales, claws, feathers, and hair that play crucial roles in defense, predation, locomotion, and thermal insulation. The mechanical properties of these skin appendages are largely determined by cornified epithelial components. So-called "hair keratins," cysteine-rich intermediate filament proteins that undergo covalent cross-linking via disulfide bonds, are the crucial structural proteins of hair and claws in mammals and hair keratin orthologs are also present in lizard claws, indicating an evolutionary origin in a hairless common ancestor of amniotes. Here, we show that reptiles and birds have also other cysteine-rich keratins which lack cysteine-rich orthologs in mammals. In addition to hard acidic (type I) sauropsid-specific (HAS) keratins, we identified hard basic (type II) sauropsid-specific (HBS) keratins which are conserved in lepidosaurs, turtles, crocodilians, and birds. Immunohistochemical analysis with a newly made antibody revealed expression of chicken HBS1 keratin in the cornifying epithelial cells of feathers. Molecular phylogenetics suggested that the high cysteine contents of HAS and HBS keratins evolved independently from the cysteine-rich sequences of hair keratin orthologs, thus representing products of convergent evolution. In conclusion, we propose an evolutionary model in which HAS and HBS keratins evolved as structural proteins in epithelial cornification of reptiles and at least one HBS keratin was co-opted as a component of feathers after the evolutionary divergence of birds from reptiles. Thus, cytoskeletal proteins of hair and feathers are products of convergent evolution and evolutionary co-option to similar biomechanical functions in clade-specific hard skin appendages.

Keratin intermediate filament chains in tuatara (Sphenodon punctatus): A comparison of tuatara and human sequences

Determination of the sequences of the keratin intermediate filament chains in tuatara has shown that these are closely akin to the α-keratins in human and other vertebrates, especially in the central, coiled-coil rod region. The domain lengths within the rod are preserved exactly, both Type I and Type II chains have been recognised, and sequence identity/homology exists between their respective chains. Nonetheless, there are characteristic differences in amino acid composition and sequence between their respective head (N-terminal) domains and their tail (C-terminal) domains, though some similarities are retained. Further, there is evidence of tandem repeats of a variety of lengths in the tuatara heads and tails indicative of sequence duplication events. These are not evident in human α-keratins and would therefore have implications for the physical attributes of the tissues in the two species. Multiple families of keratin-associated proteins that are ultra-high cysteine-rich or glycine + tyrosine-rich in human and other species do not have direct equivalents in the tuatara. Although high-sulphur proteins are present in tuatara the cysteine residue contents are significantly lower than in human. Further, no sequence homologies between the HS proteins in the two species have been found, thereby casting considerable doubt as to whether any matrix-forming high-sulphur proteins exist in tuatara. These observations may be correlated with the numerous cysteine-rich β-keratins (corneous β-proteins) that are present in tuatara, but which are conspicuously absent in mammals.

The what, why and how of curly hair: a review

An attempt to understand and explain a peculiarity that was observed for curly fibres during experimentation revealed disparate literature reporting on several key issues. The phenotypical nature of curly fibres is only accurately understood within the larger scope of hair fibres, which are highly complex biological structures. A brief literature search produced thousands of research items. Besides the large amount of information on the topic, there was also great variability in research focus. From our review, it appeared that the complexity of hair biology, combined with the variety of research subtopics, often results in uncertainty when relating different aspects of investigation. During the literature investigation, we systematically categorized elements of curly hair research into three basic topics: essentially asking why fibres curl, what the curly fibre looks like and how the curly fibre behaves. These categories were subsequently formalized into a curvature fibre model that is composed of successive but distinctive tiers comprising the elements in curly hair research. The purpose of this paper is twofold: namely to present (i) a literature review that explores the different aspects of curly human scalp hair and (ii) the curvature fibre model as a systemized approach to investigating curly hair.