[Investigations on the mechanism of the activity of urea upon the epidermis (author's transl)]

Mode of action of urea

Urea is a major component of many daily skincare products which is widely used. Its role in the treatment of, for example atopic skin, atopic eczema, psoriasis and ichthyosis, is undisputed. However, the mode of action of urea is partly still elusive and goes far beyond its assumed passive role. This article shall elucidate biophysical characteristics and properties of molecular biology that explain how urea affects healthy skin and exerts efficacy in various skin diseases. Knowledge about the mode of action of urea enables physicians to better understandthe appropriate use of urea in clinical routine.

Clinical evidences of urea at high concentration on skin and annexes

The antiproliferative, keratolytic, moisturizing and emollient properties of urea are already known. Clinical evidences of urea at high concentration indicate its important role in the presence of hyperkeratosis that, if severe or localized in specific body areas, may cause discomfort to the patient and may interfere with absorption of topical drugs, delaying response to treatment. Other important uses of urea at high concentration are on the scalp and on nail plate. The keratolytic effect of urea is well-tolerated and virtually free from side effects. Compliance with topical therapy is directly related to the aesthetic and sensory acceptability of a topical agent that may considerably vary in odour, spreadability and post-application residue.

Non-invasive assessment of urea efficacy: A review

Urea is an emollient widely used in clinical dermatology to moisturise and protect the skin. Non-invasive techniques can be useful in evaluating and quantifying the moisturising and hydrating properties of topically applied urea. Amongst these, transepidermal water loss, skin conductance and capacitance are the most widely used. Dynamic tests and mapping of skin moisturisation are additional features that can be used to evaluate the dynamics of water into the stratum corneum. Ultrasound and mechanical properties can be used to investigate the effects on skin smoothness and tone. In conclusion, urea is a fundamental ingredient of cosmetic and dermatological formulations and can have several positive effects on skin function. These can be easily investigated and monitored using non-invasive techniques measuring the stratum corneum function.

Emollients, moisturizers, and keratolytic agents in psoriasis

Emollients, moisturizers, and keratolytic agents are essential in the topical treatment of psoriasis. They are adjuvants for classic treatments and help to reduce the scale load of individual patients. The major role for emollients and moisturizers is the supportive role in normalizing hyperproliferation, differentiation, and apoptosis; furthermore, they exert anti-inflammatory effects, for example, through physiologic lipids. Subsequently, an improved barrier function and stratum corneum hydration makes the epidermis more resistant to external stressors and reduces the induction of Koebner phenomena. Most of the emollients are lipid-rich (sometimes oily). The keratolytic agents, especially salicylic acid, and higher concentration of urea should be used in the initial keratolytic phase, whereas moisturizing products and emollients are especially suitable in the intermediate phase and the chronic/remission phase of psoriasis. They should be combined with bath oils.

Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders

Emollients and moisturizing creams are used to break the dry skin cycle and to maintain the smoothness of the skin. The term 'moisturizer' is often used synonymously with emollient, but moisturizers often contain humectants in order to hydrate the stratum corneum. Dryness is frequently linked to an impaired barrier function observed, for example, in atopic skin, psoriasis, ichthyosis, and contact dermatitis. Dryness and skin barrier disorders are not a single entity, but are characterized by differences in chemistry and morphology in the epidermis. Large differences also exist between moisturizing creams. Moisturizers have multiple functions apart from moistening the skin. Similar to other actives, the efficacy is likely to depend on the dosage, where compliance is a great challenge faced in the management of skin diseases. Strong odor from ingredients and greasy compositions may be disagreeable to the patients. Furthermore, low pH and sensory reactions, from lactic acid and urea for example, may reduce patient acceptance. Once applied to the skin, the ingredients can stay on the surface, be absorbed into the skin, be metabolized, or disappear from the surface by evaporation, sloughing off, or by contact with other materials. In addition to substances considered as actives, e.g. fats and humectants, moisturizers contain substances conventionally considered as excipients (e.g. emulsifiers, antioxidants, preservatives). Recent findings indicate that actives and excipients may have more pronounced effects in the skin than previously considered. Some formulations may deteriorate the skin condition, whereas others improve the clinical appearance and skin barrier function. For example, emulsifiers may weaken the barrier. On the other hand, petrolatum has an immediate barrier-repairing effect in delipidized stratum corneum. Moreover, one ceramide-dominant lipid mixture improved atopic dermatitis and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in an open-label study in children. In double-blind studies moisturizers with urea have been shown to reduce TEWL in atopic and ichthyotic patients. Urea also makes normal and atopic skin less susceptible against irritation to sodium laurilsulfate. Treatments improving the barrier function may reduce the likelihood of further aggravation of the disease. In order to have optimum effect it is conceivable that moisturizers should be tailored with respect to the epidermal abnormality. New biochemical approaches and non-invasive instruments will increase our understanding of skin barrier disorders and facilitate optimum treatments. The chemistry and function of dry skin and moisturizers is a challenging subject for the practicing dermatologist, as well as for the chemist developing these agents in the pharmaceutical/cosmetic industry.