Broad specificity alkaline proteases efficiently reduce the visual scaling associated with soap-induced xerosis

An overview of the use of proteolytic enzymes as exfoliating agents

BACKGROUND

Proteolytic enzymes are biological catalysts that can compose cosmetic formulations: These enzymes are capable of mimicking the desquamation process of the skin, acting as exfoliants. Although enzymatic exfoliation is not new and commercial products were easily found, there is a lack of scientific literature about this topic.

METHODS

A search was carried out until 2021 in different scientific databases (Web of Science, Scopus, Scielo, PubMed, etc.). In vitro and in vivo studies that evaluated the application of enzymes aiming to exfoliate the skin or with a similar cosmetic or dermatological application were selected.

RESULTS

Only 11 articles were found, and, among them, few studies applied enzymes as exfoliants in clinical trials. Nevertheless, the results demonstrate that the enzymes can exfoliate the skin and improve some desired characteristics of the organ. Papain, bromelain, keratinases, and microbial proteases are some enzymes already applied as exfoliants. The study of pH, temperature, and stabilization of the enzymes in cosmetic formulations were also demonstrated to be important aspects to be evaluated, principally in preventing loss of enzyme activity and possible allergens/irritations on the skin.

CONCLUSION

This literature review showed the main aspects that should be evaluated before considering producing or applying proteolytic enzymes in exfoliation products/procedures. The use of enzymatic exfoliation has potential in the cosmetic industry. Hence, further robust in vivo studies are needed before the enzymatic exfoliation can be recommended with safety as a treatment modality in the current conditions.

Chymotrypsin with sialendoscopy-assisted surgery for the treatment of chronic obstructive parotitis

Chronic obstructive parotitis (COP) is a common disease of the parotid gland. A total of 104 patients with COP were identified and randomized into a treatment group (52 cases) and a control group (52 cases). All patients underwent sialography and salivary gland scintigraphy (SGS) examinations before surgery. The patients in the treatment group received chymotrypsin combined with gentamicin via interventional sialendoscopy to irrigate the duct, and the control group received gentamicin alone. All patients were asked to record their pain on a visual analogue scale (VAS) before treatment and at 1 week, 2 weeks, 1 month, 3 months, and 6 months after surgery. The VAS score for pain intensity was decreased at 1 week post-treatment in both groups (P<0.05). Compared to the control group, the VAS score was lower in the treatment group at 1 week, 2 weeks, and 1 month post-treatment (P<0.05). The 6-month postoperative SGS results showed improved uptake and excretion in both groups (P<0.05). The treatment group exhibited higher scores for postoperative SGS excretion than the control group (P<0.05). The administration of chymotrypsin combined with gentamicin by sialendoscopy is effective for the treatment of non-stone-related COP and specifically improves the excretion function of the parotid gland.

Molecular basis for stratum corneum maturation and moisturization

This themed edition of BJD is dedicated to the work of Professor Ronald Marks for his untiring work on the understanding of stratum corneum (SC) structure and function. He and his coworkers, in my opinion, had the right focus for cosmetic dermatology issues. Namely, consumers experience the wonderful properties of the SC through sight, touch and the somatosensory system. They do not experience, for example, transepidermal water loss and skin conductance or capacitance! Marks understood this and set about developing the methodologies to examine the changes in SC architecture and function when desquamation goes haywire. More importantly, he understood that moisturizers do far more than simply hydrate the SC, as exemplified in the paper by Tree and Marks, 'An explanation for the placebo effect of bland ointment bases.' Moisturizing ingredients influence the properties of the SC in many ways with the sole purpose of overcoming the signs and symptoms of dry skin. Marks demonstrated the decrease in SC cohesion following use of hydrating agents, which led to the mechanistic work on the effects of a simple molecule like glycerol on the desquamatory process. In further exploiting forced desquamation and use of abrasion, he showed that improvements in exfoliation contribute to the mitigation of the signs of photodamaged skin, which can explain part of the antiageing effect of simple moisturizers. It is here that I should point out that at least this particular author in 1988 was 'standing on the shoulders of' a great corneologist whose work influenced his research directions. So this paper will provide an update on the latest developments for the molecular basis of SC maturation and moisturization, while highlighting the contributions of Professor Marks in the different areas.

Comparative study of the stability of free and modified papain incorporated in topical formulations

Papain is an enzyme used in topical formulations as a proteolytic debriding agent for the treatment of open, extensive wounds and burnings. It is also employed as an enhancer for cutaneous permeation of active compounds, chemical peeling and as a progressive depilatory agent. The stability of formulations containing enzymes is not easy. In this research, papain was modified with polyethylene glycol in order to increase the stability of the formulations. The comparative Normal Stability Testing of the topical formulations containing unmodified and modified papain showed that the modified variety presented with a differentiated profile under the adopted temperature conditions (5.0 ± 1.0 °C; 22.0 ± 2.0 °C; 40.0 ± 2.0 °C). The most suitable condition for non-modified papain were 5.0 ± 1.0 °C and, for modified papain, they were 22.0 ± 2.0 °C. These results confirmed the higher stability of modified papain compared to free papain, as well as its potential to be applied in topical formulations.

Do moisturizers work?

Moisturizers are used on large body surfaces to maintain the smoothness of the skin and to break the dry-skin cycle. Many healthcare professionals and patients overlook the importance of moisturizers and do not consider them to be 'active' treatments. However, evidence from clinical and experimental studies shows that moisturizers enhance both the smoothness and hydration of skin. Different moisturizers have different ingredients, and each may have a different mode of action. Some smooth the skin, others affect barrier function. Some enhance barrier function in both diseased and normal skin. Others impair barrier function in both diseased and normal skin. Defective barrier function may trigger the development of eczema. The composition of a particular moisturizer should reflect its desired therapeutic effect, i.e. a moisturizer to diminish dryness may need different ingredients from those required to improve barrier function. The content of excipients, such as emulsifiers, chelating agents and antioxidants, may have greater impact than is commonly believed. Greater tailoring of moisturizers will improve their efficacy. Confidence in the therapeutic effects of moisturizers will be enhanced by well-designed randomized controlled trials.