[UV Filters. State of the art]

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

[Modern light protection from the view of occupational dermatology]

UV-light induced skin cancer is being more and more accepted in Germany as an occupational disease for several jobs with increased UV-light exposure. Over the past 100 years sunscreens with filters against UVB- and UVA-light have been developed. Another development is the use of antioxidants such as vitamin E, vitamin C and herbal agents for additional photoprotection. The evidence supporting these products in their topical and systemic formulation is very variable. The recent changes in the recognition of UV-induced skin cancers as occupational diseases increases the need for preventive strategies which are supported by appropriate clinical studies.

[Skin aging]

Like the entire human organism, the skin is subject to an intrinsic unpreventable aging process. But exogenous factors also influence skin aging. Ultraviolet radiation in particular results in premature skin aging, also referred to as extrinsic skin aging or photo aging, causing in large part aging-associated changes in sun-exposed areas. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging share several molecular similarities despite morphological and pathophysiological differences. The formation of reactive oxygen species and the induction of metalloproteinases reflect central aspects of skin aging. Accumulation of fragmented collagen fibrils prevents neocollagenesis and accounts for further degradation of extracellular matrix by means of positive feedback regulation. The importance of extrinsic factors in skin aging and the detection of its mechanisms has given rise to development of various therapeutic and preventive strategies.