[When sunscreens do not help: allergic contact dermatitis to UV filters]

Multiple Bioactivities of Manihot esculenta Leaves: UV Filter, Anti-Oxidation, Anti-Melanogenesis, Collagen Synthesis Enhancement, and Anti-Adipogenesis

The cassava root is an important global agro-industrial crop that yields cassava leaf as a left-over co-product of interest for further development as a sustainable resource of health and cosmeceutical active compounds. This work aimed to investigate the cosmeceutical potential and chemical composition of an ethanolic cassava leaf extract (BM). rutin, apigenin, and kaempferol were found to be major constituents via HPLC-DAD UV analysis. Interestingly, the multiple beneficial bioactivities of BM for cosmeceutical applications were manifested in a dose-dependent manner, including anti-oxidation in a 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay, anti-melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, collagen synthesis enhancement in human fibroblasts, and anti-adipogenesis in 3T3-L1 adipocytes. Furthermore, the potential of the collagen synthesis enhancement of BM and rutin was significant when compared to ascorbic acid. Additionally, a UV filter property comparable to BEMT with characteristics of board spectral absorption and constant high absorptivity throughout all UV wavelength ranges was exhibited by UV-visible spectrophotometric analysis. In conclusion, the cassava leaf was found to be a potential natural cosmeceutical active agent with multiple cosmeceutical-related bioactivities with respect to a substantial composition of bioactive flavonols. These obtained data will support and encourage the further study and development of cassava leaves as potential economic and sustainable sources of bioactive agents for health and cosmeceutical applications.

Phycocosmetics and Other Marine Cosmetics, Specific Cosmetics Formulated Using Marine Resources

Marine resources exist in vast numbers and show enormous diversity. As a result, there are likely many possible applications for marine molecules of interest in the cosmetic industry, whether as excipients or additives, but especially as active substances. It is possible to obtain extracts from active substances; for example, quite a few algae species can be used in moisturizing or anti-ageing products. In the field of topical photoprotection, mycosporine-like amino acids and gadusol are important lines of enquiry that should not be overlooked. In the field of additives, the demonstration that certain seaweed (algae) extracts have antimicrobial properties suggests that they could provide alternatives to currently authorized preservatives. These promising leads must be explored, but it should be kept in mind that it is a long process to bring ingredients to market that are both effective and safe to use.