Phytocosmeceutical formulation development, characterization and its in-vivo investigations

In vitro and split-faced placebo-controlled in vivo study on the skin rejuvenating effects of cream loaded with bioactive extract of Indigofera argentea Burm.f

The bioactive extracts of traditional medicinal plants are rich in polyphenols and help to rejuvenate skin. The study was designed to assess the skin rejuvenating effects of a stable cream enriched with 4% I. argentea (IaMe) extract. The quantity of polyphenols by spectrophotometric methods was TPC, 101.55 ± 0.03 mg GAE/g and total flavonoid content; 77.14 ± 0.13 mg QE/g, while HPLC-PDA revealed gallic acid; 4.91, chlorogenic acid 48.12, p-coumaric acid 0.43, and rutin 14.23 μg/g. The significant results of biological activities were observed as DPPH; 81.81% ± 0.05%, tyrosinase; 72% ± 0.23% compared to ascorbic acid (92.43% ± 0.03%), and kojic acid (78.80% ± 0.19%) respectively. Moreover, the promising sun protection effects Sun protection factor of extract (20.53) and formulation (10.59) were observed. The active cream formulation (w/o emulsion) was developed with liquid paraffin, beeswax, IaMe extract, and ABIL EM 90, which was stable for 90 days as shown by various stability parameters. The rheological results demonstrated the active formulation's non-Newtonian and pseudo-plastic characteristics and nearly spherical globules by SEM. The IaMe loaded cream was further investigated on human trial subjects for skin rejuvenating effects and visualized in 3D skin images. Herein, the results were significant compared to placebo. IaMe formulation causes a substantial drop in skin melanin from -1.70% (2 weeks) to -10.8% (12 weeks). Furthermore, it showed a significant increase in skin moisture and elasticity index from 7.7% to 39.15% and 2%-30%, respectively. According to the findings, Indigofera argentea extract has promising bioactivities and skin rejuvenating properties, rationalizing the traditional use and encouraging its exploitation for effective and economical cosmeceuticals.

The antibacterial activity of berberine against Cutibacterium acnes: its therapeutic potential in inflammatory acne

Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) is a major pathogen implicated in the evolution of acne inflammation. Inhibition of C. acnes-induced inflammation is a prospective acne therapy strategy. Berberine (BBR), a safe and effective natural ingredient, has been proven to exhibit powerful antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the antimicrobial effect of BBR against C. acnes and its role in C. acnes-mediated inflammatory acne have not been explored. The objective of this investigation was to assess the antibacterial activity of BBR against C. acnes and its inhibitory effect on the inflammatory response. The results of in vitro experiments showed that BBR exhibited significant inhibition zones against four C. acnes strains, with the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) in the range of 6.25-12.5 μg/mL and 12.5-25 μg/mL, respectively. On the bacterial growth curve, the BBR-treated C. acnes exhibited obvious growth inhibition. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) images indicated that BBR treatment resulted in significant morphological changes in C. acnes. High-content imaging analysis further confirmed that BBR could effectively inhibit the proliferation of C. acnes. The disruption of cell wall and cell membrane structure by BBR treatment was preliminary confirmed according to the leakage of cellular contents such as potassium (K+), magnesium (Mg2+), and alkaline phosphatase (AKP). Furthermore, we found that BBR could reduce the transcript levels of genes associated with peptidoglycan synthesis (murC, murD, mraY, and murG). Meanwhile, we investigated the modulatory ability of BBR on C. acnes-induced skin inflammation in mice. The results showed that BBR effectively reduced the number of C. acnes colonized in mice's ears, thereby alleviating ear swelling and erythema and significantly decreasing ear thickness and weight. In addition, BBR significantly decreased the levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6, IL-1β, and TNF-α in auricular tissues. These results suggest that BBR has the potential to treat inflammatory acne induced by C. acnes.

Assessment of Brassica oleraceae L. (Brassicaceae) extract loaded ethosomal gel as a versatile vesicular carrier system for dermocosmetic application: A noninvasive split-faced study

BACKGROUND

Plant extracts with rich ascorbic acid contents have greater antioxidant capability; extensively employed in skin beautifying products and protect skin from detrimental photodamaging environmental effects. Brassica oleraceae is having a substantial prospective toward cosmeceuticals owed by its profound activity against oxidation.

AIM

To develop an effective topical ethosomal gel loaded with Brassica oleraceae leaves extract with significant antioxidant activity.

METHODOLOGY

Valuation of antioxidant capability of plant leaves extract by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and quantification of ascorbic acid was done through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Ethosomes were prepared by cold method. Optimized suspension containing extract was incorporated in 2% Carbopol gel (test) along with extract solution (control). Noninvasive in vivo studies were performed for final product to assess its effects on skin by measuring melanin and erythema, sebum level, elasticity, moistness level, facial pores count and their area, skin wrinkling, and smoothness.

RESULTS

Brassica oleraceae (red cabbage) leaves extract exhibited significant antioxidant potential (85.64 ± 1.28%) with 14.22 μg/g of ascorbic acid; expressed prominent cosmetic effects in terms of skin melanin, erythema, sebum, elasticity, hydration, facial pores, wrinkles, and smoothness when incorporated in ethosomes. ANOVA test also exhibited positive significant (p ≤ 0.05) effects on skin.

CONCLUSION

Brassica oleraceae extract is a strong antioxidant with remarkable dermocosmetic benefits for skin.

Effects of a grapeseed oil (Vitis vinifera L.) loaded dermocosmetic nanoemulgel on biophysical parameters of facial skin: A split-face, blinded, placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Worldwide, grapes (Vitis vinifera L.; family: Vitaceae) are one of the most important fruits. Grapeseed oil is rich in bioactive constituents that could be beneficial to the health and aesthetic features of human skin.

OBJECTIVE

This study was conducted to evaluate the effects of a novel grapeseed oil-loaded dermocosmetic nanoemulgel on biophysical parameters of facial skin.

METHODS

This was a split-face, blinded, placebo-controlled study. A novel grapeseed oil-loaded dermocosmetic nanoemulgel was developed, and its effects on the biophysical parameters of the facial skin were evaluated and compared to those of a placebo formulation on the cheeks of 15 healthy volunteers. Melanin, erythema, sebum production, fine and large facial pores, moisture, and elasticity levels were measured using Mexameter®, Corneometer®, Sebumeter®, Cutometer®, and VisioFace®. Measurements were made on weekly basis for 12 weeks.

RESULTS

Compared to the placebo, the novel grapeseed oil-loaded dermocosmetic nanoemulgel received significantly higher sensory scores with regard to appearance, color, odor, consistency, adhesion, sensation, cohesiveness, and spreadability (p-value < 0.05). Additionally, the novel nanoemulgel continuously and significantly reduced skin melanin, erythema, sebum production, and fine and large pores (p-value < 0.05). On the contrary, the novel nanoemulgel continuously and significantly increased skin moisture contents and elasticity (p-value < 0.05).

CONCLUSION

The novel grapeseed oil-loaded dermocosmetic nanoemulgel had attractive cosmetic attributes that could be useful for improving imperfections of the human skin. Future studies are still needed to test and evaluate the benefits of this novel grapeseed oil-loaded dermocosmetic nanoemulgel in disease conditions.

Plant polyphenols as green sunscreen ingredients: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation has harmful effects on human skin. At present, synthetic and mineral types of sunscreens used to protect against these harmful damages have been reported to cause negative health and environmental effects. The studies involving characterization and isolation of phytoconstituents from natural botanical sources are important to discover their potential beneficial effects on sunscreen development AIM: This systematic review provides specific and compiled information on the photoprotective properties of natural botanical sources for sunscreen development. The efforts in research and innovation are essential to ensure the safety and sustainability of plant-based sunscreen products.

METHODS

In this review, a total of 35 articles were selected using the Scopus database based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria RESULT: The significant correlation between total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, antioxidant activities, and sun protection factor were shown in these studies which confirmed the potential benefits of natural plants in sunscreen development.

CONCLUSIONS

In addition, natural botanical sources also exhibit excellent anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, the biological activities of plants were dependent on the solvents used for extraction.

Therapeutic and Nutraceutical Effects of Polyphenolics from Natural Sources

The prevalence of cardiovascular disease, oxidative stress-related complications, and chronic age-related illnesses is gradually increasing worldwide. Several causes include the ineffectiveness of medicinal treatment therapies, their toxicity, their inability to provide radical solutions in some diseases, and the necessity of multiple drug therapy in certain chronic diseases. It is therefore necessary for alternative treatment methods to be sought. In this review, polyphenols were identified and classified according to their chemical structure, and the sources of these polyphenol molecules are indicated. The cardioprotective, ROS scavenging, anti-aging, anticancer properties of polyphenolic compounds have been demonstrated by the results of many studies, and these natural antioxidant molecules are potential alternative therapeutic agents.

Development of Phytocosmeceutical Microemulgel Containing Flaxseed Extract and Its In Vitro and In Vivo Characterization

Antioxidants from natural sources are extensively attaining consideration to avert the skin from damage and aging caused by free radicals. Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.), a natural therapeutic agent, was meant to be explored cosmeceutical by quantifying its potential phytoconstituents and to be incorporated into a microemulgel for topical use. Hydroalcoholic fractions (both methanolic and ethanolic; 80%) flaxseed extracts were subjected to phytochemical screening by quantifying total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and high-performance liquid chromatography-ultraviolet (HPLC-UV), and for biological activities through 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, and sun protection factor (SPF). Ethanolic fraction was selected for further study by TPC (18.75 mg gallic acid equivalent/g) and TFC (1.34 mg quercetin equivalent/g). HPLC-UV analysis showed the existence of benzoic, quercetin, caffeic, vanillic, p-coumaric, gallic, cinnamic, syringic, and sinapic acids. Biological activities showed 87.00%, 72.00%, and 21.75 values for DPPH assay, tyrosinase inhibition, and SPF assays, respectively. An oil-in-water (OW) microemulsion containing the flaxseed extract, with 99.20 nm Zeta size, −19.3 Zeta potential and 0.434 polydispersity index was developed and incorporated in Carbopol-940 gel matrix to formulate an active microemulgel with 59.15% release in in vitro studies. The successfully formulated stable active microemulgel produced statistically significant effects (p < 0.05), in comparison to a placebo, on skin erythema, melanin, sebum, moisture, and elasticity, in a noninvasive in vivo study performed on 13 healthy human female volunteers. Other cosmeceutical products can also be formulated from flaxseed, making it a considerable candidate for further utilization in the pharmaceutical industry.

Development of Niacinamide/Ferulic Acid-Loaded Multiple Emulsion and Its In Vitro/In Vivo Investigation as a Cosmeceutical Product

Objective

Multiple emulsions have the ability to incorporate both lipophilic and hydrophilic actives in the same preparation and facilitate permeation of active ingredients through skin. The current study was aimed at formulating niacinamide/ferulic acid-loaded stable multiple emulsion (MNF) and its in vitro/in vivo characterization as a cosmeceutical product.

Methods

Both the compounds were evaluated for their radical scavenging potential by the DPPH method and FTIR analysis. Then, placebo and active formulations were prepared using a double emulsification method and were investigated for stability testing (changes in color, odor, and liquefaction on centrifugation, pH, and globule size) for a period of three months. Afterwards, MNF was investigated for in vitro sun protection factor, rheological studies, entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, zeta size, and ex vivo permeation. Moreover, after ensuring the hypoallergenicity and safety, it was also checked for its cosmeceutical effects on human skin using noninvasive biophysical probes in comparison with placebo.

Results

Results demonstrated that MNF showed a non-Newtonian behavior rheologically and both MNF and placebo were stable at different storage conditions. Entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, and zeta size were 93.3%, -5.88 mV, and 0.173 μm, respectively. Moreover, melanin, sebum, and skin erythema were significantly reduced while skin elasticity and hydration were improved.

Conclusion

It is evident that niacinamide and ferulic acid can be successfully incorporated in a stable multiple emulsion which has potent cosmeceutical effects on human skin.

Evaluation of antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive activities of Marcetia macrophylla extract: potential for formulation of sunscreens

The antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive Marcetia macrophylla active extract was investigated as an active ingredient in a sunscreen cream formulation. Thus, the M. macrophylla extract showed IC50 of 3.43 mg/ml of the antioxidant (DPPH∙ scavenging test) and Sun Protection Factor of 20.25 (SPF/UV-B, at 250 µg/ml) and UV-A of 78.09% (photobleaching trans-resveratrol test). The antinociceptive activity was superior to all standards tested using the in vivo acetic acid-induced writhing test (99.14% at the dose of 200 mg/kg) and the high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and mass spectroscopy multi-stage (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS) enabled the structural characterization of the quercetin-3-O-hexoside, quercetin-3-O-pentoside and quercetin-3-O-desoxihexoside. The pharmaceutical formulation containing the Marcetia macrophylla crude active extract was prepared and the physicochemical tests (organoleptic characteristics, pH analysis and centrifugation), the in vitro UVB (sun protection factor, SPF) and UVA (β-carotene) using the spectroscopic method were investigated. The formulation showed satisfactory results concerning the physicochemical parameters evaluated and active against the UV test. Thus, M. macrophylla showed biological activities with potential use in pharmaceutical preparations.

Development and cosmeceutical evaluation of topical emulgel containing Albizia lebbeck bark extract

BACKGROUND

Antioxidants are widely used in cosmetic products as they have beneficial effects on skin and prevent skin from harmful effects of environment. Albizia lebbeck has a significant potential to be used in cosmeceuticals due to its antioxidant activity.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to formulate a stable and effective o/w emulsion-based emulgel containing Albizia lebbeck bark extract, which have considerable antioxidant activity.

METHODOLOGY

Antioxidant activity of Albizia lebbeck bark extract was determined by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method. Emulgel containing 3% extract was developed by mixing o/w emulsion in Carbopol gel along with a placebo emulgel without extract (base). In vitro evaluation of these emulgels, that is, liquefaction, color, phase separation, centrifugation, and pH change were carried out for a period of 8 weeks at different storage conditions, that is, 8ºC, 25ºC, 40ºC, and 40ºC & 75% relative humidity (RH). In vivo evaluation of emulgels was carried out on 13 healthy female volunteers by measuring various parameters of skin, that is, melanin level, erythema level, moisture content, sebum content, and elasticity at regular time intervals after applying emulgel (both base and test formulation) for 8 weeks.

RESULTS

Antioxidant activity of Albizia lebbeck bark extract was 84.7%. Both emulgels (base and test formulation) were stable at all storage conditions. Statistical analysis showed that test formulation produced significant effects (p < 0.05) on melanin, erythema level, moisture content, sebum level, and elasticity of skin.

CONCLUSION

It can be concluded that a stable topical emulgel containing 3% Albizia lebbeck bark extract has significant antioxidant effects on human skin.

Antioxidants in Plants: A Valorization Potential Emphasizing the Need for the Conservation of Plant Biodiversity in Cuba

Plants are phytochemical hubs containing antioxidants, essential for normal plant functioning and adaptation to environmental cues and delivering beneficial properties for human health. Therefore, knowledge on the antioxidant potential of different plant species and their nutraceutical and pharmaceutical properties is of utmost importance. Exploring this scientific research field provides fundamental clues on (1) plant stress responses and their adaptive evolution to harsh environmental conditions and (2) (new) natural antioxidants with a functional versatility to prevent and treat human pathologies. These natural antioxidants can be valorized via plant-derived foods and products. Cuba contains an enormously rich plant biodiversity harboring a great antioxidant potential. Besides opening new avenues for the implementation of sustainable agroecological practices in crop production, it will also contribute to new strategies to preserve plant biodiversity and simultaneously improve nature management policies in Cuba. This review provides an overview on the beneficial properties of antioxidants for plant protection and human health and is directed to the valorization of these plant antioxidants, emphasizing the need for biodiversity conservation.

Homotype-Targeted Biogenic Nanoparticles to Kill Multidrug-Resistant Cancer Cells

“Off-targeting” and receptor density expressed at the target sites always compromise the efficacy of the nanoparticle-based drug delivery systems. In this study, we isolated different cell membranes and constructed cell membrane-cloaked biogenic nanoparticles for co-delivery of antitumor paclitaxel (PTX) and multidrug resistance (MDR)-modulator disulfiram (DSF). Consequently, MDR cancer cell membrane (A549/T)-coated hybrid nanoparticles (A549/T CM-HNPs) selectively recognized the source cells and increased the uptake by ninefold via the homotypic binding mechanism. Moreover, the A549/T CM-HNPs sensitized MDR cells to PTX by suppressing P-glycoprotein (P-gp) activity by 3.2-fold and induced effective apoptosis (70%) in homologous A549/T cells. Cell-membrane coating based on the “homotypic binding” is promising in terms of promoting the accumulation of chemotherapeutics in MDR cells and killing them.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Prosopis Plant Chemical Composition and Pharmacological Attributes: Targeting Clinical Studies from Preclinical Evidence

Members of the Prosopis genus are native to America, Africa and Asia, and have long been used in traditional medicine. The Prosopis species most commonly used for medicinal purposes are P. africana, P. alba, P. cineraria, P. farcta, P. glandulosa, P. juliflora, P. nigra, P. ruscifolia and P. spicigera, which are highly effective in asthma, birth/postpartum pains, callouses, conjunctivitis, diabetes, diarrhea, expectorant, fever, flu, lactation, liver infection, malaria, otitis, pains, pediculosis, rheumatism, scabies, skin inflammations, spasm, stomach ache, bladder and pancreas stone removal. Flour, syrup, and beverages from Prosopis pods have also been potentially used for foods and food supplement formulation in many regions of the world. In addition, various in vitro and in vivo studies have revealed interesting antiplasmodial, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, antidiabetic and wound healing effects. The phytochemical composition of Prosopis plants, namely their content of C-glycosyl flavones (such as schaftoside, isoschaftoside, vicenin II, vitexin and isovitexin) has been increasingly correlated with the observed biological effects. Thus, given the literature reports, Prosopis plants have positive impact on the human diet and general health. In this sense, the present review provides an in-depth overview of the literature data regarding Prosopis plants' chemical composition, pharmacological and food applications, covering from pre-clinical data to upcoming clinical studies.

Assessment of changes in biophysical parameters by dermocosmetic emulgel loaded with Cinnamomum tamala extract: A split-faced and placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Phenolic and flavonoid compounds found in plants alleviate the photo-damaging skin conditions by playing a major role in skin rejuvenation.

AIMS

The aim of the study was to explore the cosmeceutical effects of Cinnamomum tamala extract.

OBJECTIVE

Recent research was aimed to quantify phenols and flavonoids in the natural extract of C tamala leaves, to develop its phyto-cosmetic emulgel and to assess effects of emulgel on healthy human skin.

METHOD

Phenols and flavonoids in C tamala (CT) extract were quantified by using ELISA assay. Emulgel formulation loaded with 4% C tamala (CT emulgel) was developed, and its cosmetic effects were evaluated on the cheeks of 13 healthy female test volunteers by comparing with placebo (base). Facial parameters including melanin, erythema, sebum, and visible facial pores (size and area) were studied by using Mexameter^® , Sebumeter^® , and VisioFace^® at regular interval for 90 days.

RESULTS

Total phenolic content and total flavonoids content of C tamala leaves extract were found to be 73.08 ± 0.0078 mg GAE/g and 52.63 ± 0.0060 mg QE/g CT extract respectively. As compared to placebo (base), CT emulgel was found to be significantly (P ≤ .05) effective in minimizing skin photo-damaging effects by reducing the levels of melanin, erythema, and sebum and size and count of both fine and large facial pores.

CONCLUSION

Cinnamomum tamala leaves extract, being a rich source of phenols and flavonoids minimized the photo-damaging effects by reducing skin melanin, erythema, and excess sebum; improving the skin imperfections by reducing facial pore count and area as assessed by advanced imaging and bioengineering techniques.