Pinto JR, Monteiro E Silva SA, Holsback VDSS, Leonardi GR. Skin occlusive performance: sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations.
J Cosmet Dermatol 2022;
21:4775-4780. [PMID:
35038372 DOI:
10.1111/jocd.14782]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/03/2021] [Revised: 12/31/2021] [Accepted: 01/10/2022] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND
The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients.
AIM
This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential.
METHOD
The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 minutes, 2 and 6 hours of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent.
RESULTS
The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.
CONCLUSION
Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 minutes post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.
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