Morphology and side-chain dynamics in hydrated hard α-keratin fibres by 1H solid-state NMR

Learning from hair moisture sorption and hysteresis

OBJECTIVE

The process of moisture sorption and desorption by human hair was analysed for extracting hints on the hair structure.

METHODS

The isotherms of moisture sorption and desorption by hair were recorded for untreated and chemically treated (permed and bleached) hair. Data of swelling were also considered.

RESULTS

By examining the swelling and moisture sorption of keratin fibres, it is possible to conclude that hysteresis is quite improbably caused by capillary condensation. The mobility of the protein chains and the strength of the bonds binding water molecules to the active sites inside the matrix are proposed as causes instead. The concept of "breaking symmetry", derived from moisture sorption-desorption data, and the method of evaluating this parameter, is proposed as a way of characterizing the chemical treatment of hair. The results show that bleaching produces a larger breaking of symmetry than perming, and this is suggested to be due to new hydrogen bonds, created as a result of the chemical treatment, replacing the original disulfide bonds, which are of different strength compared to the bonds of untreated hair. The quantitative sorption data matched well to the model of grains of matrix enveloped in layers of water molecules at increasing relative humidity, up to 100 %. The analysis suggested that, aside from the glass transition event occurring at around 60-70 % relative humidity, there is another, less examined, transition occurring at around 30 % relative humidity, assigned to the opening of the hair inner structure, and accommodation of more water molecules. Both transitions are reflected by corresponding changes in the fibre mechanical behaviour.

CONCLUSION

The moisture sorption-desorption by hair was shown not only to allow a quantitative differentiation among various cosmetic treatments of the hair, but also to provide valuable information on the structure of the fibre.

Wanted, dead and alive: Why a multidisciplinary approach is needed to unlock hair treatment potential

Human recorded history is littered with attempts to improve the perceived appearance of scalp hair. Throughout history, treatments have included both biological and chemical interventions. Hair "quality" or "perceived appearance" is regulated by multiple biological intervention opportunities: adding more hairs by flipping follicles from telogen to anagen, or delaying anagen follicles transiting into catagen; altering hair "apparent amount" by modulating shaft diameter or shape; or, in principle, altering shaft physical properties changing its synthesis. By far the most common biological intervention strategy today is to increase the number of hairs, but to date this has proven difficult and has yielded minimal benefits. Chemical intervention primarily consists of active material surface deposition to improve shaft shine, fibre-fibre interactions and strength. Real, perceptible benefits will best be achieved by combining opportunity areas across the three primary sciences: biology, chemistry and physics. Shaft biogenesis begins with biology: proliferation in the germinative matrix, then crossing "Auber's Critical Line" and ceasing proliferation to synthesize shaft components. Biogenesis then shifts to oxidative chemistry, where previously synthesized components are organized and cross-linked into a shaft. We herein term the crossing point from biology to chemistry as "The Orwin Threshold." Historically, hair biology and chemistry have been conducted in different fields, with biological manipulation residing in biomedical communities and hair shaft chemistry and physics within the consumer care industry, with minimal cross-fertilization. Detailed understanding of hair shaft biogenesis should enable identification of factors necessary for optimum hair shaft production and new intervention opportunities.

The structure of the "amorphous" matrix of keratins

Various keratin fibers, particularly human hairs, were investigated by transmission electron microscopy, TEM, solid-state ¹H NMR and Transient Electro-Thermal Technique, TET. The results converge to suggest that the matrix of keratin fiber cortex, far from being amorphous, has a well-defined nano-scale grainy structure, the size of these grains being around 2-4nm. The size of the grains appears to strongly depend on the chemical treatment of the fiber, on the temperature and on the relative humidity of the environment, as well as on the physiological factors at the level of fiber production in follicle. By suggesting an organization at the nano-scale of the protein chains in these grains, likely to be Keratin Associated Proteins, the results challenge the view of matrix as a homogeneous glassy material. Moreover, they indicate the potential of further investigating the purpose of this structure that appears to reflect not only chemical treatments of keratins but also biological processes at the level of the follicle.

The physical mechanism of "inhomogeneous" magnetization transfer MRI

Inhomogeneous MT (ihMT) is a new magnetic resonance imaging technique that shows promise for myelin selectivity. Materials with a high proportion of lipids, such as white matter tissue, show a reduced intensity in magnetic resonance images acquired with selective prepulses at positive and negative offsets simultaneously compared to images with a single positive or negative offset prepulse of the same power. This effect was initially explained on the basis of hole-burning in inhomogeneously broadened lines of the lipid proton spin system. Our results contradict this explanation. ihMT in lipids can be understood with a simple spin-1 model of a coupled methylene proton pair. More generally, Provotorov theory can be used to consider the evolution of dipolar order in the non-aqueous spins during the prepulses. We show that the flip-angle dependence of the proton spectrum of a model lipid system (Prolipid-161) following dipolar order generation is in quantitative agreement with the model. In addition, we directly observe dipolar order and ihMT signals in the non-aqueous components of Prolipid-161 and homogeneously-broadened systems (hair, wood, and tendon) following ihMT prepulses. The observation of ihMT signals in tendon suggests that the technique may not be as specific to myelin as previously thought. Our work shows that ihMT occurs because of dipolar couplings alone, not from a specific type of spectral line broadening as its name suggests.

Surface active complexes formed between keratin polypeptides and ionic surfactants

Keratins are a group of important proteins in skin and hair and as biomaterials they can provide desirable properties such as strength, biocompatibility, and moisture regaining and retaining. The aim of this work is to develop water-soluble keratin polypeptides from sheep wool and then explore how their surface adsorption behaves with and without surfactants. Successful preparation of keratin samples was demonstrated by identification of the key components from gel electrophoresis and the reproducible production of gram scale samples with and without SDS (sodium dodecylsulphate) during wool fibre dissolution. SDS micelles could reduce the formation of disulphide bonds between keratins during extraction, reducing inter-molecular crosslinking and improving keratin polypeptide solubility. However, Zeta potential measurements of the two polypeptide batches demonstrated almost identical pH dependent surface charge distributions with isoelectric points around pH 3.5, showing complete removal of SDS during purification by dialysis. In spite of different solubility from the two batches of keratin samples prepared, very similar adsorption and aggregation behavior was revealed from surface tension measurements and dynamic light scattering. Mixing of keratin polypeptides with SDS and C₁₂TAB (dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide) led to the formation of keratin-surfactant complexes that were substantially more effective at reducing surface tension than the polypeptides alone, showing great promise in the delivery of keratin polypeptides via the surface active complexes. Neutron reflection measurements revealed the coexistence of surfactant and keratin polypeptides at the interface, thus providing the structural support to the observed surface tension changes associated with the formation of the surface active complexes.