Cosmetopoeia

Comparative Analysis of Various Plant-Growth-Regulator Treatments on Biomass Accumulation, Bioactive Phytochemical Production, and Biological Activity of Solanum virginianum L. Callus Culture Extracts

Solanum virginianum L. (Solanum xanthocarpum) is an important therapeutic plant due to the presence of medicinally useful plant-derived compounds. S. virginianum has been shown to have anticancer, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiaging, and anti-inflammatory properties. This plant is becoming endangered due to overexploitation and the loss of its native habitat. The purpose of this research is to develop an ideal technique for the maximum biomass and phytochemical accumulation in S. virginianum leaf-induced in vitro cultures, as well as to evaluate their potential antiaging, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant abilities. Leaf explants were grown on media (Murashige and Skoog (MS)) that were supplemented with various concentrations and combinations of plant hormones (TDZ, BAP, NAA, and TDZ + NAA) for this purpose. When compared with the other hormones, TDZ demonstrated the best response for callus induction, biomass accumulation, phytochemical synthesis, and biological activities. However, with 5 mg/L of TDZ, the optimal biomass production (FW: 251.48 g/L and DW: 13.59 g/L) was estimated. The highest total phenolic level (10.22 ± 0.44 mg/g DW) was found in 5 mg/L of TDZ, whereas the highest flavonoid contents (1.65 ± 0.11 mg/g DW) were found in 10 mg/L of TDZ. The results of the HPLC revealed that the highest production of coumarins (scopoletin: 4.34 ± 0.20 mg/g DW and esculetin: 0.87 ± 0.040 mg/g DW) was determined for 10 mg/L of TDZ, whereas the highest accumulations of caffeic acid (0.56 ± 0.021 mg/g DW) and methyl caffeate (18.62 ± 0.60 mg/g DW) were shown by 5 mg/L of TDZ. The determination of these phytochemicals (phenolics and coumarins) estimates that the results of our study on biological assays, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiaging assays, are useful for future cosmetic applications.

Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells

Hair loss is becoming increasingly prevalent as dietary and living habits change. The search for natural products to limit hair loss has led to tapping into traditional cosmetic knowledge. We studied three plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia, Bidens pilosa, Calophyllum inophyllum and Fagraea berteroana, to determine their ability to promote hair growth. Their chemical content was characterized by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Their proliferative activity on dermal papilla cells (DPCs) was assessed via MTT assay and molecular targets were evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis of seven factors involved in the modulation of the hair cycle, CCND1, LEF1, DKK1, WNT5A PPARD, TGFΒ1, PPARD and RSPO2. Our results show that our extracts significantly increased proliferation of dermal papilla cells. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed a diversity of molecules, flavonoids, iridoids and organic acids, some known for hair-inducing properties. Finally, specific extracts and fractions of all three plants either upregulated CCND1, LEF1 and PPARD involved in stimulating hair follicle proliferation and/or lowered the gene expression levels of hair growth inhibiting factors, DKK1 and TGFB1. Our findings suggest that extracts from B. pilosa, C. inophyllum and F. berteroana are interesting candidates to stimulate hair growth.