Cosmeceuticals: Practical Applications

Stability Profile and Clinical Evaluation of an Innovative Hydrogel Containing Polymeric Micelles as Drug Delivery Systems with Oregano Essential Oil against Fibroepithelial Polyps

Skin tags, also known as fibroepithelial polyps (FPs) or acrochordons, are soft, pigmented excrescences, with a prevalence of 50-60% in the population, occurring especially in the fourth decade of life. To date, FPs have been efficiently eliminated using minimum invasive methods such as surgical removal, cauterization, laser irradiation, and cryosurgery. Over-the-counter treatments are also of interest for patients due to their non-invasive character, but their clinical efficiency has not been clearly demonstrated. This study was designed in order to evaluate the efficacy of a modern-pharmaceutical-formulation-type poloxamer-based binary hydrogel, having Origanum vulgare L. essential oil (OEO-PbH) as an active ingredient in the management of FPs. The formulation has been shown to possess good qualities in terms of stability and sterility. Non-invasive measurements revealed changes in some physiological skin parameters. An increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index was noted, while skin surface water content (SWC) decreased during eight weeks of treatment. The macroscopic evaluation revealed that the FPs dried and shrunk after topical treatment with OEO-PbH. Clinically, patients presented a lowering of the number of lesions on the treated area of 20-30% after one month of treatment and around 50% after the second month. Histopathological examination suggests that topical treatment with OEO-PbH may induce histological changes in the epidermis, dermis, and fibrovascular cores of FPs, including a loss of thickness, reduced size and number of blood vessels, and low cellularity. These changes may contribute to the observed reduction in size of FPs after treatment with OEO-PbH.

Predicting phytochemical diversity of medicinal and aromatic plants (MAPs) across eco-climatic zones and elevation in Uttarakhand using Generalized Additive Model

The present study uses a systematic approach to explore the phytochemical composition of medicinal plants from Uttarakhand, Western Himalaya. The phytochemical composition of medicinal plants was analyzed based on (i) the presence of different chemical groups and (ii) bioactive compounds. The Generalized Additive Model (GAM) analysis was used to predict the occurrence of chemical groups and active compounds across different eco-climatic zones and the elevation in Uttarakhand. A total of 789 medicinal plants represented by 144 taxonomic families were screened to explore the phytochemical diversity of the medicinal plants of Uttarakhand. These medicinal plant species are signified in different life forms such as herbs (58.86%), shrubs (18.24%), trees (17.48%), ferns (2.38%), and climbers (2.13%). The probability of occurrence of the chemical groups found in tropical, sub-tropical, and warm temperate eco-climatic zones, whereas active compounds have a high Probability towards alpine, sub-alpine, and cool temperate zones. The GAM predicted that the occurrence of species with active compounds was declining significantly (p < 0.01), while total active compounds increased across elevation (1000 m). While the occurrence of species with the chemical group increased, total chemical groups were indicated to decline with increasing elevation from 1000 m (p < 0.000). The current study is overwhelmed to predict the distribution of phytochemicals in different eco-climatic zones and elevations using secondary information, which offers to discover bioactive compounds of the species occurring in the different eco-climatic habitats of the region and setting the priority of conservation concerns. However, the study encourages the various commercial sectors, such as pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, chemical, food, and cosmetics, to utilize unexplored species. In addition, the study suggests that prioritizing eco-climatic zones and elevation based on phytochemical diversity should be a factor of concern in the Himalayan region, especially under the climate change scenario.

Fractional CO₂ Laser Pretreatment Facilitates Transdermal Delivery of Two Vitamin C Derivatives

BACKGROUND

Topical vitamin C derivatives have been used to treat melasma and used as a skin whitener. The aim of this study was to compare skin histology and permeation of l-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate sesquimagnesium salt (MAP-1) and magnesium l-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (MAP-2) after fractional CO₂ laser pretreatment.

METHODS

The effect of fractional laser treatment on porcine skin was examined by scanning electron microscopy and confocal laser scanning electron microscopy. The effect of fractional CO₂ laser treatment of different fluencies and pass numbers on transdermal flux of the two vitamin C derivatives through porcine skin was examined in vitro using a Franz diffusion chamber.

RESULTS

Fluxes of MAP-1 and MAP-2 across fractional CO₂ laser-treated (5 W) skin were eight- to 13-fold, and 20- to 22-fold higher, respectively, than the fluxes of these compounds across intact skin. Fluxes of MAP-1 and MAP-2 across fractional CO₂ laser-treated (9 W) skin were 14- to 19-fold, and 30- to 42-fold higher, respectively, than their fluxes across intact skin.

CONCLUSION

Fractional CO₂ laser treatment is an effective way of delivering vitamin C derivatives into the skin.

Critical review of Ayurvedic Varṇya herbs and their tyrosinase inhibition effect

INTRODUCTION

The aspiration for light skin (fair complexion) is becoming pronounced in a greater number of people in the present times with natural products being more in demand than their synthetic counterparts. Research in the area of skin-lightening agents is an expanding field with the knowledge being updated regularly. In Ayurveda, varṇya, raktaprasādana, tvacya are few terms specifying skin lightening with respect to its modern counterpart i.e., Tyrosinase inhibition, the most commonly reported method of skin lightening.

AIM

The present review is undertaken for screening twenty herbs from Varṇya Mahākaṣāya, Lodhrādi varṇya gaṇa, Elādi varṇa prasādana gaṇa and few varṇya formulations to evaluate their probable modes of action through which the skin lightening is effected as per both Ayurveda and biomedical concepts.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Critical review of herbs to show varṇya property is compiled from various Ayurvedic texts as well as from multiple articles on the internet to justify their skin lightening property on the basis of data collected.

RESULT AND CONCLUSION

All the twenty herbs reviewed are found to act as varṇya directly (citation as varṇya) or indirectly (alleviation of pitta and rakta) as per Ayurveda and to interfere in melanogenesis pathway through tyrosinase inhibition as per biomedicine. This shows their potential to act as good skin whitening agents. Śuṇṭhi being a part of many varṇya formulations, is the only herb among all reviewed in the present study found to exhibit tyrosinase inhibition without any Ayurvedic citation of varṇya property.

Dermal Stability and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Collagen Pentapeptides (KTTKS and palmitoyl-KTTKS)

Collagen pentapeptide (Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, KTTKS) and its palmitoylated derivative (pal-KTTKS) have received a great deal of attention as cosmeceutical ingredients for their anti-wrinkle effects. The objective of this study was to evaluate stability and permeability of KTTKS and pal-KTTKS in hairless mouse skin. In this study, a liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometric method was developed for the quantification of pal-KTTKS, and used for stability and permeability studies. Stability studies were performed using skin extracts and homogenates. Both KTTKS and pal-KTTKS were rapidly degraded, but pal-KTTKS was more stable than KTTKS. When protease inhibitors were added, the stability of both compounds (KTTKS and pal-KTTKS) improved significantly. In the skin permeation study, neither KTTKS nor pal-KTTKS was detected in the receptor solution, which indicates that neither compound could permeate through the full-thickness hairless mouse skin in the experimental conditions of this study. While KTTKS was not detected in any of the skin layers (the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis), pal-KTTKS was observed in all skin layers: 4.2 ± 0.7 μg/cm(2) in the stratum corneum, 2.8 ± 0.5 μg/cm(2) in the epidermis, and 0.3 ± 0.1 μg/cm(2) in the dermis. In conclusion, this study indicated that pal-KTTKS had greater stability and permeability than that of un-modified KTTKS, and may be a useful anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmeceutical agent.

Transdermal delivery of three vitamin C derivatives by Er:YAG and carbon dioxide laser pretreatment

The objective of this study was to investigate the effects of two lasers (Er:YAG and CO2) in enhancing skin permeation of three vitamin C derivatives, L-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate sesquimagnesium salt (MAP-1), magnesium L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (MAP-2), and 2-phospho-L-ascorbic acid trisodium salt (SAP). Dorsal skin of 1-week-old pathogen-free pigs was used for this in vitro study. Changes in permeation in laser-treated skin treated by the lasers were examined by confocal scanning electron microscopy. Transdermal flux of vitamin C derivatives was examined with a Franz diffusion cell. Fluxes of MAP-1, MAP-2, and SAP across Er:YAG laser-treated skin were 15-27-fold, 48-123-fold, and 22-56-fold higher, respectively, than their fluxes across intact skin. The fluxes of MAP-1, MAP-2, and SAP across CO2 laser-treated skin were 28-36-fold, 116-156-fold, and 79-102-fold higher, respectively, than their fluxes across intact skin. Optimal fluency for the Er:YAG laser was 3.8 J/cm(2) for MAP-1 and 5 J/cm(2) for MAP-2 and SAP. Optimal fluency for the CO2 laser was 5 W for all three derivatives. In conclusion, optimal fluency for all derivatives was 5 W for the CO2 laser and 3.8 to 5 J/cm(2) for the Er:YAG laser.