Anionic clays for sunscreen agent safe use: Photoprotection, photostability and prevention of their skin penetration

Bellis perennis extract mitigates UVA-induced keratinocyte damage: Photoprotective and immunomodulatory effects

A need exists for further research elucidating the benefits of environmentally safe photoprotective agents against ultraviolet (UV) exposure, and plant extracts represent a human-friendly alternative formulation. This study was designed to evaluate the potential use of Bellis perennis extract (BPE), from the Asteraceae family, known as the common daisy or the English daisy, in cosmeceuticals as a photoprotective factor, using an in vitro model of UVA-induced keratinocyte damage. Human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT cell line) were incubated with BPE at 0.01, 0.1, or 1% in Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium (DMEM), and after 15 min they were submitted to UVA radiation at 5, 10, and 15 J/cm² doses, respectively. For comparative purposes, Polypodium leucotomos extract (PLE), known as the fern, was used as a positive control in assessing the photoprotective effect. After 24 h of UVA exposure, cell viability (MTT and LDH assays), levels of cleaved caspase-3, cyclooxygenase-2, IL-6, reactive oxygen species (ROS) and antioxidant enzyme (catalase, SOD, and glutathione peroxidase) activity were determined. UVA radiation at 5, 10, and 15 J/cm² doses reduced cell viability to 63%, 43%, and 23%, respectively; we selected 10 J/cm² for our purposes. After 24 h of UVA exposure, treatment with 1% BPE and 1% PLE significantly recovered cell viability (p < 0.05). Furthermore, treatment was associated with lower cleaved caspase-3 and ROS levels, higher catalase activity, and lower IL-6 levels in the treated UVA keratinocytes compared with the untreated UVA group (p < 0.01). Our results demonstrate photoprotective and immunomodulatory effects of BPE in skin keratinocytes and support its use as a bioactive agent in cosmetic formulations to prevent skin damage caused by exposure to the UV light.

Swelling layered minerals applications: A solid state NMR overview

Swelling layered clay minerals form an important sub-group of the phyllosilicate family. They are characterized by their ability to expand or contract in the presence or absence of water. This property makes them useful for a variety of applications, ranging from environmental technologies to heterogeneous catalysis, and including pharmaceutical and industrial applications. Solid State Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (SS-NMR) has been extensively applied in the characterization of these materials, providing useful information on their dynamics and structure that is inaccessible using other characterization methods such as X-ray diffraction. In this review, we present the key contributions of SS-NMR to the understanding of the mechanisms that govern some of the main applications associated to swelling clay minerals. The article is divided in two parts. The first part presents SS-NMR conventional applications to layered clay minerals, while the second part comprises an in-depth review of the information that SS-NMR can provide about the different properties of swelling layered clay minerals.

A short review of alternative ingredients and technologies of inorganic UV filters

BACKGROUND

The growing need to use sunscreens is a concrete reality, and it is associated with the increase in the population's awareness of the ultraviolet (UV) radiation damage. Inorganic UV filters promote the formation of particles/pigments film over the skin surface, reflecting, dispersing, and absorbing the radiation. Investigations of this class of filters demonstrate the emergence of alternative ingredients and new technologies.

AIMS AND METHODS

In this review, we presented potential candidates for alternative UV inorganic filters, such as hydroxyapatite, cerium dioxide, and hydrotalcite.

RESULTS

Specialized literature identified hydroxyapatite and cerium dioxide as actives with good performances, with a broad spectrum of absorption against UV radiation. Both of them were considered safe against degradation and skin erythema formation. Inorganic compounds as an alternative to circumvent degradation problems of organic UV filters containing PABA were also analyzed, with hydrotalcite having a good performance in improving the performance of classic ingredients, bypassing photoinstability, and improving safety, in addition to preventing skin irritability.

CONCLUSION

Further investigations of these ingredients and interactions with sunscreen formulations are necessary to overall explore their safety and efficacy, encouraging future researches for more inorganic UV filters.

Polymeric Bioadhesive Patch Based on Ketoprofen-Hydrotalcite Hybrid for Local Treatments

Ketoprofen (KET) represents one of the most common drugs used in the topical treatment of pain and inflammations. However, its potential is rather limited due to the very low solubility and photochemical instability. The local administration of KET by conventional products, such as gels, emulgels, creams, and foams, does not guarantee an efficacious and safe treatment because of its low absorption (due to low solubility) and its sensitivity to UV rays. The photodegradation of KET makes many photoproducts responsible for different adverse effects. In the present work, KET was intercalated into the lamellar anionic clay ZnAl-hydrotalcite (ZnAl-HTlc), obtaining the hybrid ZnAl-KET with improved stability to UV rays and water solubility in comparison to the crystalline form (not intercalated KET). The hybrid was then formulated in autoadhesive patches for local pain treatment. The patches were prepared by casting method starting from a hydrogel based on the biocompatible and bioadhesive polymer NaCMC (Sodium carboxymethycellulose) and glycerol as a plasticizing agent. The introduction of ZnAl-KET in the patch composition demonstrated the improvement in the mechanical properties of the formulation. Moreover, a sustained and complete KET release was obtained within 8 h. This allowed reducing the frequency of anti-inflammatory administration, compared to the conventional formulations.

Materials Science Challenges in Skin UV Protection: A Review

UV radiation is one of the critical environmental stress factors for human skin, which can trigger various problems such as pruritus, burning, erythema, premature skin aging and skin cancer. Hence, UV protection has become an indispensable daily routine and the use of topical sunscreen products is rapidly increasing. However, there are emerging concerns over the efficiency and safety of existing chemical and physical UV filters used in consumer products. Furthermore, there is no universally approved method for assessing sun protection efficiency regardless of the immediate end user need to develop safer sunscreen products that afford broad-spectrum photoprotection. It is evident that the current organic and inorganic UV filters have significant unfavorable impacts on human, environmental, and marine safety. Therefore, effective alternative UV filters should be established. This article comprehensively reviews the properties, safety, health and ecological concerns of various UV filters including TiO₂ and ZnO nanoparticles as well as the limitations of the testing protocols and guidelines provided by major regulatory bodies. The photoreactivity of UV filters used in sunscreen remains a major challenge, and it is crucial to develop new sunscreen ingredients, which not only protect the consumer, but also the environment.

Hair Care Cosmetics: From Traditional Shampoo to Solid Clay and Herbal Shampoo, A Review

Hair is an important part of the body appeal and its look is a health indicator. Accordingly, recent advances in hair science and hair care technologies have been reported in literature claiming innovations and strategies for hair treatments and cosmetic products. The treatment of hair and scalp, primarily, involved the use of shampoo for an effective, but gentle cleansing; however, for years, the shampoo is considered not only as a cosmetic product having the purifying purpose, but it is also responsible for maintaining the health and the beauty of hair, imparting gloss and improving manageability. For meeting the needs of a multitasking formulation, following also the recent marketing-trend addressed to the "natural world", new challenges for cosmetic technology are aimed towards the research of natural ingredients, as well as new techniques for shampoo formulation. Regarding the recent development of solid shampoos, little information is available about their use, formulation and advantages. This review is largely focused on the description of solid shampoos, mainly based on the use of clays, herbs or flours as washing bases alternative to the traditional ones, consisting of a combination of synthetic surfactants, together with other usual ingredients expected in a shampoo formulation.

Recent advances in layered double hydroxides applied to photoprotection

Layered double hydroxides have received more attention from researchers due to their range of applications, ease of synthesis and low cost of production. With broader knowledge about solar radiation effects on the body, the use of sunscreens has become even more important. The ability of some nanostructures, such as layered double hydroxides, to act as matrices has made it possible to obtain improvements in photoprotective formulations, with solutions to problems caused by radiation and sunscreens. This review article brings together the most recent advances of these clays, the layered double hydroxides, applied to photoprotection.

Chloride binding capacity of LDHs with various divalent cations and divalent to trivalent cation ratios in different solutions

Chlorides were bonded by LDHs due to ion exchange and surface adsorption. Carbonation resulted in the debonding of the chloride bond by ion exchange, however, surface adsorption was not affected by carbonation.

A novel antimicrobial composite: ZnAl-hydrotalcite with p-hydroxybenzoic acid intercalation and its possible application as a food packaging material

p-Hydroxybenzoic acid was intercalated into LDHs (Zn/Al ratio = 4 : 1). The former possesses anti-fungal activity and the latter shows the best antibacterial effect.

On the Rehydration of Organic Layered Double Hydroxides to form Low-Ordered Carbon/LDH Nanocomposites

Low-ordered carbon/layered double hydroxide (LDH) nanocomposites were prepared by rehydration of the oxides produced by calcination of an organic LDH. While the memory effect is a widely recognized effect on oxides produced by inorganic LDH, it is unprecedented from the calcination/rehydration of organic ones. Different temperatures (400, 600, and 1100 °C) were tested on the basis of thermogravimetric data. Water, instead of a carbonate solution, was used for the rehydration, with CO2 available from water itself and/or air to induce a slower process with an easier and better intercalation of the carbonaceous species. The samples were characterized by X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD), infrared in reflection mode (IR), and Raman spectroscopies and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). XRPD indicated the presence of carbonate LDH, and of residuals of unreacted oxides. IR confirmed that the prevailing anion is carbonate, coming from the water used for the rehydration and/or air. Raman data indicated the presence of low-ordered carbonaceous species moieties and SEM and XRPD the absence of separated bulky graphitic sheets, suggesting an intimate mixing of the low ordered carbonaceous phase with reconstructed LDH. Organic LDH gave better memory effect after calcination at 400 °C. Conversely, the carbonaceous species are observed after rehydration of the sample calcined at 600 °C with a reduced memory effect, demonstrating the interference of the carbonaceous phase with LDH reconstruction and the bonding with LDH layers to form a low-ordered carbon/LDH nanocomposite.

Preparation and Characterization of PMMA Particles Incorporating a Chemical Sunscreen Agent for Improvement of UV Protection Ability

UV protection ability is an important concern in the application of sunscreen. Modifying well-known UV filters is one of the most important ways to develop sunscreens. In this study, poly(methyl methacrylate)–ethylhexyl salicylate (PMMA-EHS) particles were prepared via miniemulsion polymerization using a redox initiator at low temperature. Compared with free EHS, the sun protection factor (SPF) value of PMMA-EHS particles was increased by ~40 %, which indicated a significant improvement in UV protection ability from encapsulating EHS in PMMA. Prepared PMMA-EHS particles proved non-leaky in application and can greatly reduce skin irritation by preventing direct contact of EHS with skin.

Rationalization of liquid assisted grinding intercalation yields of organic molecules into layered double hydroxides by multivariate analysis

PCA, coupled to molecular descriptors, proved to be an effective tool to rationalize the mechanochemical intercalation yields of layered materials.

Acetyl salicylic acid–ZnAl layered double hydroxide functional nanohybrid for skin care application

In this study, a pharmaceutically active ingredient, acetyl salicylic acid (ASA), was intercalated into ZnAl layered double hydroxide (LDH). The ASA–LDH-based cream showed its high prospects in curing skin disorders like razor bumps in a short span of time.

Structural Characterisation of Complex Layered Double Hydroxides and TGA-GC-MS Study on Thermal Response and Carbonate Contamination in Nitrate- and Organic-Exchanged Hydrotalcites

Layered double hydroxides (LDHs) are versatile materials used for intercalating bioactive molecules in the fields of pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals and cosmetics, with the purpose of protecting them from degradation, enhancing their water solubility to increase bioavailability and improving their pharmacokinetic properties and formulation stability. Moreover, LDHs are used in various technological applications to improve stability and processability. The crystal chemistry of hydrotalcite-like compounds was investigated by X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD), automated electron diffraction tomography (ADT) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA)-GC-MS to shed light on the mechanisms involved in ion exchange and absorption of contaminants, mainly carbonate anions. For the first time, ADT allowed a structural model of LDH_NO3 to be obtained from experiment, shedding light on the conformation of nitrate inside LDH and on the loss of crystallinity due to the layer morphology. The ADT analysis of a hybrid LDH sample (LDH_EUS) clearly revealed an increase in defectivity in this material. XRPD demonstrated that the presence of carbonate can influence the intercalation of organic molecules into LDH, since CO3 -contaminated samples tend to adopt d spacings that are approximate multiples of the d spacing of LDH_CO3 . TGA-GC-MS allowed intercalated and surface- adsorbed organic molecules to be distinguished and quantified, the presence and amount of carbonate to be confirmed, especially at low concentrations (<2 wt %), and the different types and strengths of adsorption to be classified with respect to the temperature of elimination.

Layered double hydroxides as drug carriers and for controlled release of non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs (NSAIDs): a review

Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs constitute one of the groups most widely currently used, but show several problems for administration due to low solubility and delivery control. For this reason, several matrices have been tested to support them in order to overcome these drawbacks. Among them, layered double hydroxides have been used in recent years. The aim of this review is to update the current knowledge and findings on this hybrid system, namely, layered double hydroxides intercalated with different NSAIDs. The basic nature of the matrix introduces an additional advantage, i.e., to decrease ulceration damages. We have focused our review mostly on the preparation procedures, as these control, define and determine the performance of the systems in vitro and also in living organisms.

Synthesis of (cinnamate-zinc layered hydroxide) intercalation compound for sunscreen application

Background

Zinc layered hydroxide (ZLH) intercalated with cinnamate, an anionic form of cinnamic acid (CA), an efficient UVA and UVB absorber, have been synthesized by direct method using zinc oxide (ZnO) and cinnamic acid as the precursor.

Results

The resulting obtained intercalation compound, ZCA, showed a basal spacing of 23.9 Å as a result of cinnamate intercalated in a bilayer arrangement between the interlayer spaces of ZLH with estimated percentage loading of cinnamate of about 40.4 % w/w. The UV–vis absorption spectrum of the intercalation compound showed excellent UVA and UVB absorption ability. Retention of cinnamate in ZLH interlayers was tested against media usually came across with sunscreen usage to show low release over an extended period of time. MTT assay of the intercalation compound on human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells showed cytotoxicity of ZCA to be concentration dependent and is overall less toxic than its precursor, ZnO.

Conclusions

(Cinnamate-zinc layered hydroxide) intercalation compound is suitable to be used as a safe and effective sunscreen with long UV protection effect.

Photoprotective effects of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane

A new sunscreen ingredient, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane (MCP-PSQ), which contains an UV-absorbing p-methoxycinnamoyl group, has been developed synthetically and evaluated using in vitro and in vivo approaches. Previous studies revealed that MCP-PSQ has a raising or boosting effect on the sun protection factor (SPF) of other sunscreen agents. In this study, we demonstrated that MCP-PSQ, an organic/inorganic hybrid compound, has photoprotective effects for human fibroblasts, and for hairless mouse and human skin. MCP-PSQ increases cell viability and suppresses the expression of p53 protein in fibroblasts after UV exposure. In addition, the numbers of sunburn cells and mast cells are reduced by topical application of MCP-PSQ on hairless mouse skin after UV irradiation. A 10% MCP-PSQ cream has higher and similar effects on SPF values for human skin compared to 5% titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) and 5% ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), respectively. The SPF value obtained using the MCP-PSQ cream did not drop after UV irradiation of the cream itself. However, higher dose of UV irradiation is required to guarantee the stability or photostability of the formulation. Further, there were no side effects such as erythema, edema, itch or tingling, suggesting that MCP-PSQ is a good sunscreen agent.

Intercalation of anionic organic ultraviolet ray absorbers into layered zinc hydroxide nitrate

Layered zinc hydroxide nitrate (ZHN) was synthesized and nitrate ions were topotactically exchanged with three different anionic species of commercial organic ultraviolet (UV) ray absorbers: 2-mercaptobenzoic acid, 2-aminobenzoic acid, and 4-aminobenzoic acid. The exchange reactions were confirmed by X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy, and thermal analysis (thermogravimetry, TGA, and differential thermal analysis, DTA). In all the anionic exchanged products, evidence of grafting of the organic species onto the inorganic matrix was obtained. In general, after intercalation/grafting, the UV absorption ability was improved in relation to the use of the parent organic material, showing that layered hydroxide salts (LHS) can be good alternative matrixes for the immobilization of organic species with UV-blocking properties in cosmetic products.

Recent progress in the synthesis and application of organically modified hydrotalcites

This review is focused on the preparation and potential applications of hydrotalcite like compounds organically modified by ion-exchange procedure and the data reviewed have been supplemented with unpublished results. It is divided in two Parts. Part I deals with intercalation of biologically active species such as amino-acids, anti-inflammatory and antibiotic drugs, UV-absorbers to produce nano-hybrids with versatile application as biomolecule reservoir and in the pharmaceutical and personal care fields. Part II deals with the intercalation of several anions with either hydrophobic or hydrophilic properties in order to make the inorganic sheets compatible with different polymers. Moreover, if the guest is an active molecular anion such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, antibiotic or anti-inflammatory, the polymer can acquire the peculiar properties of the guest opening novel interesting application fields.

New polymeric composites based on poly(-caprolactone) and layered double hydroxides containing antimicrobial species

Benzoate (Bz), 2,4-dichlorobenzoate (BzDC), and p- and o-hydroxybenzoate (p- and o-BzOH) anions with antimicrobial activity have been intercalated into [Zn(0.65)Al(0.35)(OH)(2)](NO(3))(0.35).0.6H(2)O, layered double hydroxide (LDH), via anion-exchange reactions. The composition of the obtained intercalation compounds, determined by chemical, thermogravimetric, and ion chromatographic analyses, indicates that benzoate and benzoate derivative anions replace the nitrate counteranions, almost completely. Information on the interactions of the intercalated anions with the inorganic layer have been obtained from Fourier transform IR absorption spectroscopy and powder X-ray diffraction of the samples. It has been found that both the nature and the position of the aromatic ring substituents affect the value of the basal distance and the host-guest hydrogen bond network. Knowledge of the chemical composition, basal distance, and van der Waals dimensions of the guests has finally allowed the proposal of structural models of the intercalation compounds that have been used as fillers of poly(caprolactone), a biodegradable polymer. Films of polymeric composites were obtained by hot-pressing the powders of polymer and filler previously milled by a high-energy ball milling procedure. X-ray diffraction analysis and optical and scanning electron microscopy of the composites indicate that the LDH samples containing BzDC anions are delaminated into the polymeric matrix, whereas those containing p-BzOH anions maintain for the most part the crystal packing and give rise to microcomposites. Intermediate behavior was found for LDH modified with Bz and o-BzOH anions because exfoliated and partly intercalated composites were obtained. Preliminary antimicrobial tests indicate that the composites are able to inhibit the Saccharomyces cerevisiae growth of 40% in comparison with the growth in a pure culture medium. The composites can be studied as the model for "active packaging" systems because of the antimicrobial properties of the anions anchored to the LDH layer.