Self-assembled organogelators as artificial stratum corneum models: Key-role parameters for skin permeation prediction

In vivo β-carotene skin permeation modulated by Nanostructured Lipid Carriers

Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLC) were investigated with the purpose of promoting skin permeation of the highly lipophilic β-carotene (BC) across the stratum corneum (SC) barrier so that it may perform its antioxidant properties in photo-aging and epithelial skin cancer prevention. Two differently sized NLC samples were developed using stearic acid and squalene as lipid matrix and evaluated in comparison with Microstructured Lipid Carriers (MLC). The carriers were characterized for morphology, size, Z-potential, BC loading and release as well as physical state by means of DSC and XRPD analyses. In vivo penetration of the carriers was assessed on humans by determining BC concentrations within the SC stratum disjunctum and stratum compactum layers removed by means of the tape stripping test in comparison with pure BC. Unlike MLC and pure BC that were mostly retained within the outermost layers of the SC, the NLC sample having the smallest size (about 200 nm) has proved to penetrate more deeply into the SC barrier. Accordingly, the goal of providing β-carotene actions against oxidative damages within the looser skin viable tissues could be envisaged.