Unplanned absorption of sunscreen ingredients: Impact of formulation and evaluation methods

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Effect of Receptor Solution in Studies of In Vitro Permeation Test (IVPT)

In Vitro Permeation Test (IVPT) is commonly used to evaluate skin penetration of chemicals and performance of dermatological products. For a permeant with low aqueous solubility, an additive that is expected not to alter the skin barrier can be used in the receptor solution to improve permeant solubility. The objective of this study was to (a) evaluate the effects of these additives in IVPT receptor solution on skin permeability of model permeants and skin electrical resistance and (b) determine the solubility of the permeants in these receptor solutions. Bovine serum albumin (BSA), 2-hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HPCD), ethanol, nonionic surfactant Brij-98, and propylene glycol were the additives, and phosphate buffered saline (PBS) was the control. Steady-state skin permeability coefficients and resistances were determined. The receptor solutions examined in this study did not cause a significant increase in skin permeability or decrease in resistance (less than 40 % changes) except 25 % ethanol. The receptor solution containing 25 % ethanol induced an approximately twofold average increase in skin permeability and reduced skin electrical resistance by approximately threefold. The receptor solution of 2.5 % HPCD provided the highest levels of solubility for the model lipophilic permeants, while 0.2 % Brij-98 and 5 % ethanol showed the lowest solubility enhancement from those in PBS.

Green-Engineered Barrier Creams with Montmorillonite-Chlorophyll Clays as Adsorbents for Benzene, Toluene, and Xylene

Dermal exposures to hazardous environmental chemicals in water can significantly affect the morphology and integrity of skin structure, leading to enhanced and deeper penetration. Organic solvents, such as benzene, toluene, and xylene (BTX), have been detected in humans following skin exposure. In this study, novel barrier cream formulations (EVB™) engineered with either montmorillonite (CM and SM) or chlorophyll-amended montmorillonite (CMCH and SMCH) clays were tested for their binding efficacy for BTX mixtures in water. The physicochemical properties of all sorbents and barrier creams were characterized and were shown to be suitable for topical application. In vitro adsorption results indicated that EVB-SMCH was the most effective and favorable barrier for BTX, as supported by the high binding percentage (29-59% at 0.05 g and 0.1 g), stable binding at equilibrium, low desorption rates, and high binding affinity. Pseudo-second-order and the Freundlich models best fit the adsorption kinetics and isotherms, and the adsorption was an exothermic reaction. Ecotoxicological models using L. minor and H. vulgaris that were submersed in aqueous culture media showed that the inclusion of 0.05% and 0.2% EVB-SMCH reduced BTX concentration. This result was further supported by the significant and dose-dependent increase in multiple growth endpoints, including plant frond number, surface area, chlorophyll content, growth rate, inhibition rate, and hydra morphology. The in vitro adsorption results and in vivo plant and animal models indicated that green-engineered EVB-SMCH can be used as an effective barrier to bind BTX mixtures and interrupt their diffusion and dermal contact.

Enhanced intradermal delivery of Dragon's blood in biocompatible nanosuspensions hydrogel patch for skin photoprotective effect

Dragon's Blood is a member of the Chinese medicinal herb, having anti-oxygen and anti-inflammatory activity for the photoprotective effect. However, the poor water solubility of raw Dragon's Blood powder has limited its intradermal delivery process. In this study, we evaluated nanosuspensions to enhance intradermal delivery of Dragon's Blood exerting a photoprotective effect. The prepared nanosuspension was added to a composite hydrogel patch matrix for better skin application. In the present research, we used biocompatible materials hyaluronic acid and amino acid surfactants as nanosuspension stabilizers and agar/gelatin/sodium polyacrylate as hydrogel patch matrix. The prepared Dragon's Blood nanosuspension had a particle size of 447.0 ± 48.6 nm. The micro-structures morphology and viscoelasticity characteristics by SEM and rheological testing confirmed a sufficient crosslinked hydrogel network. The skin retention amount of Dragon's Blood nanosuspension was 1.48 times of raw Dragon's Blood powder water suspension, and the skin penetration amount of Dragon's Blood nanosuspension was only about 1/3 of Dragon's Blood DMSO solution. In the UVB-irradiated HaCaT cell phototoxicity model, Dragon's Blood nanosuspension also significantly increased cell viability by about 1 time of the model group and decreased the production of reactive oxygen species about 1/2 times of model group. In vivo safety and efficiency evaluation experiment illustrated that DB-NS hydrogel patch processes have favorable safety and photoprotective effect with no skin irritancy and phototoxicity. Furthermore, DB-NS and DB-NS hydrogel patches could protect skin from UVA and UVB irritating skin reactions. Overall, our study of the combined use of biocompatible and biodegradable materials as excipients of nanosuspension and hydrogel patch could be used as an effective additive of Intradermal delivery and skin photoprotection.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

Co-Encapsulation of Drugs for Topical Application-A Review

Achieving the best possible outcome for the therapy is the main goal of a medicine. Therefore, nanocarriers and co-delivery strategies were invented to meet this need, as they can benefit many diseases. This approach was applied specifically for cancer treatment, with some success. However, these strategies may benefit many other clinical issues. Skin is the largest and most exposed organ of the human body, with physiological and psychological properties. Due to its exposition and importance, it is not difficult to understand how many skin diseases may impact on patients' lives, representing an important burden for society. Thus, this review aims to summarize the state of the art in research concerning nanocarriers and co-delivery strategies for topical agents' applications targeting skin diseases. The challenge for the medicine of the future is to deliver the drug with spatial and temporal control. Therefore, the co-encapsulation of drugs and the appropriate form of administration for them are so important and remain as unmet needs.

Advanced harmonization techniques result in accurate establishment of in vitro-in vivo correlations for oxybenzone from four complex dermal formulations with reapplication

Due to high variability during clinical pharmacokinetic (PK) evaluation, the prediction of in vivo exposure from in vitro absorption testing of topical semisolid and liquid dermal products has historically proven difficult. Since absorption from unoccluded formulations can be influenced by environmental factors such as temperature and humidity, maximal effort must be placed on the harmonization of experimental parameters between in vitro and in vivo testing conditions to establish accurate in vitro/in vivo correlations (IVIVC). Using four different sunscreen formulations as a model, we performed in vitro permeation testing (IVPT) studies with excised human skin and maintained strict harmonization techniques to control application time, occlusion, temperature, and humidity during in vivo human serum PK evaluation. The goal was to investigate if increased control over experimental parameters would result in decreased inter-subject variability of common topical formulations leading to acceptable IVIVC establishment. Using a deconvolution-based approach, excellent point-to-point (Level A correlation) IVIVC for the entire 12-h study duration was achieved for all four sunscreen formulations with < 10% prediction error of both area under the curve (AUC) and peak concentration (C_max) estimation. The low variability of in vivo absorption data presents a proof-of-concept protocol design for testing of complex semisolid and liquid topical formulations applied over a large surface area with reapplication in a reliable manner. This work also presents the opportunity for expanded development of testing for the impact of altered temperature and humidity conditions on product absorption in vivo with a high degree of precision.

Revealing the relationship between molecular weight of lignin and its color, UV-protecting property

Lignin has great potential as a natural, green, and sustainable broad-spectrum sunscreen active ingredient. However, the coexistence of dark color and sunscreen properties hinders its application in cosmetics. In this study, we focus on the effects of the molecular weight of lignin on tis UV-protecting property and color in order to prepare lignin-based sunscreen with high performance. A prepared sunscreen containing low molecular weight lignin (F5, <1000 g/mol) exhibits good UV-protecting property (sun protection factor (SPF) = 7.14) and light color advantages (ΔE = 46.2). Moreover, a strong synergistic effect on UV-protecting property exists between low molecular weight lignin and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), resulting in high SPF of F5@EHMC-based sunscreen (55.56). Additionally, added TiO2 can efficiently mitigate the dark color of lignin-based sunscreens due to prominent covering power of TiO2. Moreover, lignin-based sunscreens have good biocompatibility with HaCaT cells. This work is useful for understanding the mechanism of the UV-protecting property and dark color of lignin, and for designing an efficient and safe lignin-based sunscreen.

Uncovering Streptomyces-Derived Compounds as Cosmeceuticals for the Development of Improved Skin Photoprotection Products: An In Silico Approach to Explore Multi-Targeted Agents

The search for novel photoprotective substances has become a challenge in cosmeceutical research. Streptomyces-derived compounds can serve as a promising source of photoprotective agents to formulate skin photoprotection products, such as sunscreens. This study aimed to identify specialized metabolites with the potential to modulate UV-induced cellular damage in the skin by identifying potential multi-target-directed ligands. Using a combination of ligand- and target-based virtual screening approaches, a public compound library comprising 6524 Streptomyces-derived specialized metabolites was studied for their photoprotective capability. The compounds were initially filtered by safety features and then examined for their ability to interact with key targets in the photodamage pathway by molecular docking. A set of 50 commercially available UV filters was used as the benchmark. The protein–ligand stability of selected Streptomyces-derived compounds was also studied by molecular dynamics (MD) simulations. From the compound library, 1981 compounds were found to meet the safety criteria for topically applied products, such as low skin permeability and low or non-toxicity-alerting substructures. A total of 34 compounds had promising binding scores against crucial targets involved in UV-induced photodamage, such as serotonin-receptor subtype 5-HT2A, platelet-activating factor receptor, IL-1 receptor type 1, epidermal growth factor receptor, and cyclooxygenase-2. Among these compounds, aspergilazine A and phaeochromycin F showed the highest ranked interactions with four of the five targets and triggered complex stabilization over time. Additionally, the predicted UV-absorbing profiles also suggest a UV-filtering effect. Streptomyces is an encouraging biological source of compounds for developing topical products. After in silico protein–ligand interactions, binding mode and stabilization of aspergilazine A and phaeochromycin F led to the discovery of potential candidates as photodamage multi-target inhibitors. Therefore, they can be further explored for the formulation of skin photoprotection products.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, “how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?”. BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

Inclusion of Montmorillonite Clays in Environmental Barrier Formulations to Reduce Skin Exposure to Water-Soluble Chemicals from Polluted Water

Dermal exposures to environmental chemicals can significantly affect the morphology and integrity of skin structure, leading to enhanced and deeper penetration of toxic chemicals. This problem can be magnified during disasters where hazardous water-soluble chemicals are readily mobilized and redistributed in the environment, threatening the health of vulnerable populations at the impacted sites. To address this issue, barrier emulsion formulations (EVB) have been developed consisting of materials that are generally recognized as safe, with the inclusion of medical grade carbon or calcium and sodium montmorillonite clays (CM and SM). In this study, the adsorption efficacy of five highly toxic and commonly occurring contaminants of concern, including important hydrophilic pesticides (glyphosate, acrolein, and paraquat) and per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances were characterized. EVB showed properties such as high stability, spreadability, low rupture strength, and neutral pH that were suitable for topical application on the skin. The in vitro adsorption results indicated that EVB and EVB-SM were effective, economically feasible, and favorable barrier formulations for hazardous chemical adsorption, as supported by high binding percentage, low desorption rates for an extended period of time, and high binding affinity. A pseudo-second-order kinetic model was best fitted for the adsorption process and the Freundlich model fit the adsorption isotherms with negative enthalpy values indicating spontaneous reactions that involve physisorption. The study, with varying temperatures and pH, showed that the adsorption reaction was exothermic and persistent. The results indicated that EVB and EVB-SM can be used as effective barriers to block dermal contact from water-soluble toxic pollutants during disasters.

Sunscreen Enhancement of Octyl Methoxycinnamate Microcapsules by Using Two Biopolymers as Wall Materials

Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is widely used as a chemical sunscreen in sunscreen cosmetics. However, its direct contact with the skin would bring certain risks, such as skin photosensitive reaction. How to improve the effect of skin photodamage protection has become a current research hotspot. Encapsulating ultraviolet (UV) filters into microcapsules is an interesting method to increase the photostability of filters. In this study, sodium caseinate (SC) and arabic gum (GA) are chosen as wall materials to prepare synergistic sunscreen microcapsules by complex coacervation technology. A series of experiments are conducted to investigate the effects of pH, wall material concentration, and wall/core ratio on the formation of OMC microcapsules. The morphology, composition, and stability of OMC microcapsules are characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The OMC microcapsule is uniform in size distribution, smooth in surface morphology, and has good thermal stability. The results show that the ultraviolet absorption of the OMC microcapsules is better than that of the uncoated OMC for the ultraviolet-B (280–320 nm). Moreover, the OMC microcapsule released 40% in 12 h, while OMC released 65%, but the sun protection factor (SPF) of the OMC microcapsule sunscreen is 18.75% higher than that of OMC. This phenomenon may be attributed to the hydrophobic interaction between SC and OMC and the electrostatic interaction between SC and GA.