Tactile friction of topical creams and emulsions: Friction measurements on excised skin and VitroSkin® using ForceBoard™

Topical pickering emulsion versus classical excipients: A study of the residual film on the human skin

The interest in Pickering emulsions is based on the possibility of replacing classical emulsifiers with solid particles. These emulsions are very attractive in the pharmaceutical field for their stability virtues and as a vehicle to deliver active ingredients. The study aimed to analyze the properties of the residual film of the Pickering emulsions on the human skin compared to conventional systems. For this project, three types of solid particles were used: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide. All of them are capable of stabilizing the oil/water interface and thus forming totally emulsified systems. To create an emulsion of reference, a classical surfactant was used as an excipient. Complementary systems containing both particles and the emulsifier were also analyzed. Then, a combined approach between physicochemical and biometrological in vivo analysis was employed. The study proved that Pickering emulsions stabilized by the metal oxides were distinct from the reference emulsion in terms of droplet sizes and organization, rheological and textural responses. Consequently, it impacted the properties of the residual film once the product was applied to the skin. The particle-stabilized emulsions formed a hydrophobic film counter to conventional excipients. Also, the Friction parameter (or the roughness of the film) was directly linked to the quantity of the particles used in the formulation and their perception on the skin surface. The use of the particles blurs the glossy effect of the oil phase. Finally, it was observed that the appearance of the residual film was impacted by the type of the particle, namely TiO2 and ZnO particles.

Skin quality sensor to evaluate vibration and friction generated when sliding over skins

OBJECTIVE

The mechanical condition and tactile evaluation of skin are essential for the development of skin care products. Most of the existing commercial instruments and studies aim to evaluate the skin surface by pressing it for hardness or by using imaging sensors, but there have been few instrumental measurements employing rubbing motion. Here, we have developed a sensor specialized for tactile sensation and the contact phenomenon during skin rubbing.

METHODS

The developed sensor has three features: It can measure body parts including cheeks and arms, automate the rubbing motion of the probe and measure vibration and friction simultaneously. It is hand-held, with metal probes that rub the skin surface while rotating under a motor drive; it has an accelerometer and a force sensor beneath the probe measuring vibration and friction forces. To evaluate the validity of the sensor's measurements, artificial skin models were measured using the developed sensor and commercially available sensors and the results were compared. The relationship between the sensor output, surface roughness measurement and sensory evaluation was also investigated. Additionally, we evaluated the inter-rater reliability when measuring actual skin.

RESULTS

The measurements of five artificial skin models with different surface shapes showed a high correlation (r = 0.99) between the vibration intensity values evaluated by the developed sensor and those measured by a tri-axial acceleration sensor attached to a fingernail. The correlation coefficient between the vibration intensity values and surface roughness was r = 0.91, and the correlation with the sensory evaluation score of roughness was r = 0.99. The friction coefficients measured by the developed sensor and the force plate had r = 0.93, based on measurements of five artificial skin models with different friction conditions. The inter-rater correlation coefficients between the three participants of the developed sensor were as high as 0.92 and 0.94 for the vibration and friction measurements respectively.

CONCLUSION

The vibration intensities and friction coefficients from the sensor were highly correlated with those of the conventional sensor. The inter-rater reliability was also high. The developed sensor can be useful for tactile evaluation in skin-care product development.

Unconventional and conventional Pickering emulsions: Perspectives and challenges in skin applications

Pickering emulsions are free from molecular and classical surfactants and are stabilized by solid particles, creating long-term stability against emulsion coalescence. Additionally, these emulsions are both environmentally and skin-friendly, creating new and unexplored sensorial perceptions. Although the literature mostly describes conventional emulsions (oil-in-water), there are unconventional emulsions (multiple, oil-in-oil and water-in-water) with excellent prospects and challenges in skin application as oil-free systems, permeation enhancers and topical drug delivery agents, with various possibilities in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, up to now, these conventional and unconventional Pickering emulsions are not yet available as commercial products. This review brings to the discussion some important aspects such as the use of phases, particles, rheological and sensorial perception, as well as current trends in the development of these emulsions.

Influence of wall slip, thixotropy, and lubrication regime on the instrumental sensory evaluation of topical formulations

OBJECTIVE

Drawing parallels from rheo-tribology can be used to develop a robust instrumental protocol for non-subjective characterization, product development and design of topical dosage forms with desired sensory attributes. However, instrumental characterization of cosmetic products can be influenced by the measurement protocol, thixotropy, flow anomalies like shear banding or wall slip and nature of the film formed on the skin surface. In this study, we evaluated the influence of above parameters on the instrumental sensory evaluation of twelve topical formulations of different galenic forms.

METHODS

Oscillatory strain sweep measurements (SAOS and LAOS) were performed to investigate the influence of frequency and wall slip on the material parameters. The textural attributes at different consumer touch points were evaluated by accounting time dependent simulation of visco-elastic flow. Further, the influence of film thickness and sample drying on the tactile properties of the topical formulations were studied on a non-biological skin model using a sliding probe tribometer.

RESULTS

The study shows that the flow properties of the semi-solid formulations depend on the time scale of the problem. A few formulations exhibited wall slip to varying degrees in the linear visco-elastic regime where the behaviour was found not to be characteristic of a particular topical dosage form. The material functions obtained from the Lissajous plots suggest that the non-linear flow behavior of different galenic forms is least influenced by the boundary conditions imposed by the measurement geometry. The results were statistically analyzed using principal component analysis where the attributes used for discriminating skin creams during pick-up and rub out are found to be closely associated with non-linear rheology. The friction coefficient exhibited speed dependence where it formed different parametric group with rheological data depending on the lubrication regime.

CONCLUSION

The study highlights that correlations are possible among rheological, tribological, and instrumental textural analysis data, which can act an impetus for the development of models to predict attributes that drive perception at different consumer touch points. However, the choice of instrumental settings, anomalies associated with rheological measurements and friction dependence on a number of parameters can influence the model prediction.