Susceptibility of cosmeceutical peptides to proteases activity: Development of dermal stability test by LC-MS/MS analysis

Noninvasive Monitoring of Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 in Human Skin Layers: Mechanical Interaction with Skin Components and Its Potential Skincare Benefits

Self-assembling peptides (SAPs) represent a rich source of building blocks that interact with biological structures. For instance, cosmetic SAPs like Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 have gained increasing interest for their anti-aging properties. However, their short-term impact on the skin composition and mechanics remains unclear. In this study, a battery of label-free techniques is exploited to objectively monitor the effects of Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 on human skin. Orbital trapping secondary ion mass spectrometry (OrbiSIMS) is used to discern between Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 sol and gel forms, tracking its self-assembly and penetration within full-thickness human skin. Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 is shown to permeate both stratum corneum and epidermal layers, initiating gel formation by harnessing endogenous ions. Hence, the ability of the peptide to strengthen and repair the skin barrier after delipidation is also demonstrated through a high-throughput mechanical characterization and stimulated Raman scattering (SRS). Finally, the co-assembling properties of Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 with native skin molecules are shown via in vitro tests and ex vivo histology. This study establishes a methodological benchmark for measuring the effects of cosmetic peptides on skin mechanics and hydration, introducing a platform to design SAPs capable of harnessing native skin molecules to create "biocooperative" structures with cosmetic benefits.

Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Senescence: A Review

One class of cosmetic compounds that have raised interest of many experts is peptides. The search for ingredients with good biocompatibility and bioactivity has led to the use of peptides in cosmetic products. Peptides are novel active ingredients that improve collagen synthesis, enhance skin cell proliferation, or decrease inflammation. Based on their mechanism of action, they can be classified into signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. This review focuses on the main types of peptides and their application in the cosmetic field, underlining their main limitations. One of the most significant drawbacks of cosmetic peptides is their poor permeability through membranes, which limits their delivery and effectiveness. As a result, this review follows the methods used for improving permeability through the stratum corneum. Increasing peptide bioavailability and stability for enhanced delivery to the desired site of action and visible effects have become central points for the latest research due to their promising features. For this purpose, several methods have been identified and described. Physical techniques include thermal ablation (radiofrequency and laser), electrical methods (electroporation, iontophoresis), mechanical approach (microneedles), and ultrasounds. As an alternative, innovative formulations have been developed in nano-systems such as liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, nanoemulsions, and other nanomaterials to reduce skin irritation and improve product effectiveness. The purpose of this review is to provide the latest information regarding these noteworthy molecules and the reasoning behind their use in cosmetic formulations.

Bioactive oligopeptides and the application in skin regeneration and rejuvenation

Oligopeptides, composed of 2-10 amino acid residues, are protein fragments with unique structural characteristics, including small molecular size, high biocompatibility, and modifiable functional groups. These features endow oligopeptides with excellent permeability, safety, and versatile biological activities, making them widely applicable in disease treatment, drug delivery, and skincare. In particular, oligopeptides have emerged as advanced ingredients in skincare, offering anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, and whitening effects by regulating key biological processes such as collagen synthesis, antioxidant defense, and melanin production. This review comprehensively discusses the structural properties, functional mechanisms, and diverse applications of oligopeptides and their derivatives, highlighting their potential in skin regeneration, rejuvenation, and anti-aging medicine. By providing insights into the latest advancements, this review aims to serve as a valuable reference for future research and development in oligopeptide-based therapeutics and skincare innovations.

Retro-Inverso Collagen Modulator Peptide Derived from Serpin A1 with Enhanced Stability and Activity In Vitro

The rising demand for novel cosmeceutical ingredients has highlighted peptides as a significant category. Based on the collagen turnover modulation properties of SA1-III, a decapeptide derived from a serine protease inhibitor (serpin A1), this study focused on designing shorter, second-generation peptides endowed with improved properties. A tetrapeptide candidate was further modified employing the retro-inverso approach that uses d-amino acids aiming to enhance peptide stability against dermal enzymes. Surprisingly, the modified peptide AAT11RI displayed notably high activity in vitro, as compared to its precursors, and suggested a mode of action based on the inhibition of collagen degradation. It is worth noting that AAT11RI showcases stability against dermal enzymes contained in human skin homogenates due to its rationally designed structure that hampers recognition by most proteases. The rational approach we embraced in this study underscored the added value of substantiated claims in the design of new cosmeceutical ingredients, representing a rarity in the field.

Triazole-Modified Peptidomimetics: An Opportunity for Drug Discovery and Development

Peptidomimetics play a fundamental role in drug design due to their preferential properties regarding natural peptides. In particular, compounds possessing nitrogen-containing heterocycles have been intensively studied in recent years. The triazolyl moiety incorporation decreases the molecule susceptibility to enzymatic degradation, reduction, hydrolysis, and oxidation. In fact, peptides containing triazole rings are a typical example of peptidomimetics. They have all the advantages over classic peptides. Both efficient synthetic methods and biological activity make these systems an interesting and promising object of research. Peptide triazole derivatives display a diversity of biological properties and can be obtained via numerous synthetic strategies. In this review, we have highlighted the importance of the triazole-modified peptidomimetics in the field of drug design. We present an overview on new achievements in triazolyl-containing peptidomimetics synthesis and their biological activity as inhibitors of enzymes or against cancer, viruses, bacteria, or fungi. The relevance of above-mentioned compounds was confirmed by their comparison with unmodified peptides.

Argireline: Needle-Free Botox as Analytical Challenge

Argireline-containing cosmetics attract public interest due to their confirmed reduction of facial wrinkles. Argireline is a peptide that works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters in the neuromuscular junction, producing a botox-like effect. Therefore, it is used as a safe needle-free alternative to botox treatment. In this work we investigated the presence of Argireline in cosmetic creams and sera by application of reversed phase liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry (RP-HPLC/MS and MS/MS). The analysis revealed the presence of argireline and its oxidized form in several different cosmetics. The methionine residue in Argireline sequence was indicated as oxidation point according to neutral loss MS studies. The developed sample preparation strategy minimizes and monitors methionine oxidation, bringing to our attention the question of impact of ingredients on the stability of cosmetic product.