Skin penetration and antioxidant effect of cosmeto-textiles with gallic acid

Synthesis of a pH/temperature bi-response gallic acid magnetic imprinted polymer for extracting natural product from Galla chinensis

A pH/temperature bi-responsive gallic acid magnetic imprinted polymer (PTBG-MIP) was synthesized on a Fe3O4@SiO2@KH570 carrier using methacrylic acid (MAA), p-Vinylphenylboronic acid (p-VPBA), and N-isopropyl-acrylamide (NIPAAm) as complex functional monomers. The density functional theory (DFT) was employed to optimize the molar ratio of multi-functional monomers-template complex, which proved to be an effective tool for predicting complex configuration based on electrostatic potential (ESP) analysis and the lowest binding energy. DFT calculation and analysis determined the optimized molar ratio of 2:1:1:1 for GA-MAA-NIPAAm-p-VPBA, which showed good agreement with experimental results. The PTBG-MIP-4 obtained under the optimized conditions exhibited high pH- and temperature- dependence in rebinding the template, displaying a maximum adsorption capacity (Qe) of 62.26 mg g-1 and a highest selection factor (α) of 5.217. Additionally, the PTBG-MIP-4 exhibited exceptional physicochemical properties encompassing magnetization characteristics, morphology, surface sites distribution, and adsorption performance. The application efficiency of this imprinted composite in the extraction and purification of gallic acid from Galla chinensis was remarkably demonstrated.

Comparison of Anti-Inflammatory and Antibacterial Properties of Raphanus sativus L. Leaf and Root Kombucha-Fermented Extracts

In the cosmetics industry, the extract from Raphanus sativus L. is fermented using specific starter cultures. These cosmetic ingredients act as preservatives and skin conditioners. Kombucha is traditionally made by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria and yeast and is used in cosmetic products. The aim of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of radish leaf and root extract fermented with the SCOBY. Both unfermented water extracts and extracts after 7, 14, and 21 days of fermentation were evaluated. The analysis of secondary plant metabolites by UPLC-MS showed higher values for ferments than for extracts. A similar relationship was noted when examining the antioxidant properties using DPPH and ABTS radicals and the protective effect against H2O2-induced oxidative stress in fibroblasts and keratinocytes using the fluorogenic dye H2DCFDA. The results also showed no cytotoxicity to skin cells using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability of the samples to inhibit IL-1β and COX-2 activity in LPS-treated fibroblasts was also demonstrated using ELISA assays. The influence of extracts and ferments on bacterial strains involved in inflammatory processes of skin diseases was also assessed. Additionally, application tests were carried out, which showed a positive effect of extracts and ferments on TEWL and skin hydration using a TEWAmeter and corneometer probe. The results obtained depended on the concentration used and the fermentation time.

Antioxidant Hydrogels: Antioxidant Mechanisms, Design Strategies, and Applications in the Treatment of Oxidative Stress-Related Diseases

Oxidative stress is a biochemical process that disrupts the redox balance due to an excess of oxidized substances within the cell. Oxidative stress is closely associated with a multitude of diseases and health issues, including cancer, diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, neurodegenerative disorders, inflammatory conditions, and aging. Therefore, the developing of antioxidant treatment strategies has emerged as a pivotal area of medical research. Hydrogels have garnered considerable attention due to their exceptional biocompatibility, adjustable physicochemical properties, and capabilities for drug delivery. Numerous antioxidant hydrogels have been developed and proven effective in alleviating oxidative stress. In the pursuit of more effective treatments for oxidative stress-related diseases, there is an urgent need for advanced strategies for the fabrication of multifunctional antioxidant hydrogels. Consequently, the authors' focus will be on hydrogels that possess exceptional reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species scavenging capabilities, and their role in oxidative stress therapy will be evaluated. Herein, the antioxidant mechanisms and the design strategies of antioxidant hydrogels and their applications in oxidative stress-related diseases are discussed systematically in order to provide critical insights for further advancements in the field.

Optimized silicate nanozymes with atomically incorporated iron and manganese for intratumoral coordination-enhanced once-for-all catalytic therapy

Although plant-derived cancer therapeutic products possess great promise in clinical translations, they still suffer from quick degradation and low targeting rates. Herein, based on the oxygen vacancy (OV)-immobilization strategy, an OV-enriched biodegradable silicate nanoplatform with atomically dispersed Fe/Mn active species and polyethylene glycol modification was innovated for loading gallic acid (GA) (noted as FMMPG) for intratumoral coordination-enhanced multicatalytic cancer therapy. The OV-enriched FMMPG nanozymes with a narrow band gap (1.74 eV) can be excited by a 650 nm laser to generate reactive oxygen species. Benefiting from the Mn-O bond in response to the tumor microenvironment (TME), the silicate skeleton in FMMPG collapses and completely degrades after 24 h. The degraded metal M (M = Fe, Mn) ions and released GA can in situ produce a stable M-GA nanocomplex at tumor sites. Importantly, the formed M-GA with strong reductive ability can transform H2O2 into the fatal hydroxyl radical, causing serious oxidative damage to the tumor. The released Fe3+ and Mn2+ can serve as enhanced contrast agents for magnetic resonance imaging, which can track the chemodynamic and photodynamic therapy processes. The work offers a reasonable strategy for a TME-responsive degradation and intratumoral coordination-enhanced multicatalytic therapy founded on bimetallic silicate nanozymes to achieve desirable tumor theranostic outcomes.

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

Stability and Antioxidant Activity of Pouteria macrophylla Fruit Extract, a Natural Source of Gallic Acid

Pouteria macrophylla (cutite) fruits are rich in phenolic acids, resulting in antioxidant and skin depigmenting activity. The aim of this study, then, is to evaluate the cutite extract stability under three variations of light, time, and temperature using a Box-Behnken experimental design to analyze through the surface response the variations of the total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activity (AA), and gallic acid content (GA). A colorimetric assay was also performed, and a decrease in the darkening index was noticed due to the high phenolic coloration in the presence of light, indicating less degradation to extract stability. The experimental planning showed variations in all responses, and second-order polynomial models were calculated and considered predictable, as well as the effects were significant. The TPC exhibited a variation in less concentrated samples (0.5% p/v) at higher temperatures (90 °C). In contrast, the temperature was the only influential variable for AA, where only higher temperatures (60-90 °C) were able to destabilize the fruit extract. Differently, GA showed only the concentration as the influential variable, exhibiting that neither temperature nor time of exposure could affect the gallic acid content stability of P. macrophylla extract. For this, P. macrophylla extract was shown to be highly stable, providing a great perspective on cosmetic application.

Assessing Alternative Pre-Treatment Methods to Promote Essential Oil Fixation into Cotton and Polyethylene Terephthalate Fiber: A Comparative Study

This study aims to develop a new refreshing feeling, ecological, and antimicrobial fabrics for medicinal applications. The geranium essential oils (GEO) are incorporated into polyester and cotton fabrics by different methods, such as ultrasound, diffusion, and padding. The effect of solvent, nature of fibers, and treatment processes were evaluated via the thermal properties, the color strength, the odor intensity, the wash fastness, and the antibacterial activities of the fabrics. It was found that the ultrasound method was the most efficient process for incorporation of GEO. Ultrasound produced a great effect on the color strength of the treated fabrics, suggesting the absorption of geranium oil in fiber surface. The color strength (K/S) increased from 0.22 for the original fabric to 0.91 for the modified counterpart. In addition, the treated fibers showed appreciable antibacterial capacity against Gram-positive (Staphylococcus epidermidis) and Gram-negative (Escherichia coli) bacteria strains. Moreover, the ultrasound process can effectively guarantee the stability of geranium oil in fabrics without decreasing the significant odor intensity and antibacterial character. Based on the interesting properties like ecofriendliness, reusability, antibacterial, and a refreshing feeling, it was suggested that textile impregnated with geranium essential oil might be used as a potential material in cosmetic applications.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Evaluation of a multiple microemulsion from Trichilia catigua extract and the percutaneous penetration through skin by Phase-Resolved photoacoustic spectroscopy

Emulsion systems have been a breakthrough in cosmetic products, providing performance and effectiveness of products that use this technological strategy for drug delivery systems. In this sense, the microemulsion of the multiple emulsion W/O/W type containing a standardized extract of Trichilia catigua with high levels of polyphenols and antioxidants has great potential for cosmetic use. The aim of this study was to evaluate the formulations safety through the analysis of toxicity, comedogenicity, and histopathology in rabbits and apply the Phase-Resolved Photoacoustic Spectroscopy method to determine the formulation percutaneous penetration through the skin. The ex vivo experiments were performed in the ears of albino New Zealand rabbits treated twice a day for 14 days. The results of histological, hematological, and blood chemistry showed that the formulations are safe. Histopathological analysis showed no tissue reaction in any of the analyzed organs (liver and kidneys), confirming the absence of toxicity. Histological analysis showed that the formulations with extract of T. catigua demonstrated mild-moderately comedogenic and acanthosis compared to the control group. Inflammatory reactions, erythema, and desquamation were not observed in treated and controls animals. The phase-resolved photoacoustic spectroscopy method showed the penetration of the developed formulations throughout the rabbit's skin, identifying their absorption bands at the dermal side of the skin. In conclusion, the results of this study provide a step towards the application of the developed natural antioxidant encapsulated in a multiple microemulsion for skincare, concerned with the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the formulation.

Stability and Applicability of Retinyl Palmitate Loaded Beeswax Microcapsules for Cosmetic Use : Material properties and stability of microencapsulated actives

In our previous study, retinyl palmitate was successfully encapsulated by melt dispersion using waxes as shell materials. Herein, the objective of the present research is to evaluate the shelf life and kinetic release of the developed microcapsules. The study was conducted by measuring actual loading capacity over a period of time using spectroscopic analysis. The transfer percentage of particles from nonwoven facial wipes to skin-like surfaces was also investigated by simulating the rubbing mechanism with a robotic transfer replicator. Although particles stored as powder form under room temperature showed only eight days of shelf-life, particles stored as a dispersion in a refrigerator maintained 60% of the theoretical loading capacity after one month. The kinetic release profile of the particles in ethanol with shaking at 100 rpm and 37±2°C showed an initial burst in the first half an hour, followed by a sustained release. It also showed that 98% of the retinyl palmitate content released within 4 h. Particles incorporated into wet nonwoven wipes gave approximately 22% transfer to skin-like fabric. Thus, the study shows potentials of delivering skincare properties by means of retinyl palmitate capsule loaded textile substrates.

Layer-By-Layer Self-Assembled Dip Coating for Antifouling Functionalized Finishing of Cotton Textile

The fouling of surfaces such as textiles is a major health challenge, and there is a continuous effort to develop materials and processes to overcome it. In consideration of this, this study regards the development of antifouling functional nanoencapsulated finishing for the cotton textile fabric by employing a layer-by-layer dip coating technique. Antifouling textile finishing was formulated by inducing the nanoencapsulation of the antifouling functional group inside the hydrophobic polymeric shell. Cotton fabric was taken as a substrate to incorporate antibacterial functionality by alternatively fabricating multilayers of antifouling polymeric formulation (APF) and polyelectrolyte solution. The surface morphology of nanoencapsulated finished textile fabric was characterized through scanning electron microscopy to confirm the uniform distribution of nanoparticles on the cotton textile fabric. Optical profilometry and atomic force microscopy studies indicated increased surface roughness in the coated textile substrate as compared to the uncoated textile. The surface thickness of the fabricated textile increased with the number of deposited bilayers on the textile substrate. Surface hydrophobicity increased with number of coating bilayers with θ values of x for single layer, up to y for 20 bilayers. The antibacterial activity of the uncoated and layer-by-layer coated finished textile was also evaluated. It was significant and exhibited a significant zone of inhibition against microbial strains Gram-positive S. aureus and Gram-negative E. coli. The bilayer coating exhibited water repellency, hydrophobicity, and antibacterial activity. Thus, the fabricated textile could be highly useful for many industrial and biomedical applications.

Antioxidant Power on Dermal Cells by Textiles Dyed with an Onion (Allium cepa L.) Skin Extract

In this study, the phenol loading and antioxidant activity of wool yarn prepared with the aqueous extract of onion (Allium cepa L.) skin was enhanced by implementing the dyeing process with the use of alum as a mordant. Spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods were applied for the characterization of polyphenolic substances loaded on the wool yarn. The antioxidant/anti-inflammatory properties were evaluated by determining the level of intra- and extra-cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts pre-treated with lipopolysaccharide put in contact with artificial sweat. An elevated dye uptake on wool was observed for the pre-mordanted sample, as demonstrated by high absorbance values in the UV-Visible spectral range. Chromatographic results showed that protocatechuic acid and its glucoside were the main phenolic acid released in artificial sweat by the wool yarns, while quercetin-4′-glucoside and its aglycone quercetin were more retained. The extract released from the textile immersed in artificial sweat showed a significant reducing effect on the intra-and extracellular ROS levels in the two cell lines considered. Cytofluorimetric analyses demonstrated that the selected mordant was safe at the concentration used in the dyeing procedure. Therefore, alum pre-mordanted textiles dyed with onion-skin extracts may represent an interesting tool against skin diseases.

Development and Evaluation of a Human Skin Equivalent in a Semiautomatic Microfluidic Diffusion Chamber

There is an increasing demand for transdermal transport measurements to optimize topical drug formulations and to achieve proper penetration profile of cosmetic ingredients. Reflecting ethical concerns the use of both human and animal tissues is becoming more restricted. Therefore, the focus of dermal research is shifting towards in vitro assays. In the current proof-of-concept study a three-layer skin equivalent using human HaCaT keratinocytes, an electrospun polycaprolactone mesh and a collagen-I gel was compared to human excised skin samples. We measured the permeability of the samples for 2% caffeine cream using a miniaturized dynamic diffusion cell (“skin-on-a-chip” microfluidic device). Caffeine delivery exhibits similar transport kinetics through the artificial skin and the human tissue: after a rapid rise, a long-lasting high concentration steady state develops. This is markedly distinct from the kinetics measured when using cell-free constructs, where a shorter release was observable. These results imply that both the established skin equivalent and the microfluidic diffusion chamber can serve as a suitable base for further development of more complex tissue substitutes.

The Role of β-Cyclodextrin in the Textile Industry-Review

β-Cyclodextrin (β-CD) is an oligosaccharide composed of seven units of D-(+)-glucopyranose joined by α-1,4 bonds, which is obtained from starch. Its singular trunk conical shape organization, with a well-defined cavity, provides an adequate environment for several types of molecules to be included. Complexation changes the properties of the guest molecules and can increase their stability and bioavailability, protecting against degradation, and reducing their volatility. Thanks to its versatility, biocompatibility, and biodegradability, β-CD is widespread in many research and industrial applications. In this review, we summarize the role of β-CD and its derivatives in the textile industry. First, we present some general physicochemical characteristics, followed by its application in the areas of dyeing, finishing, and wastewater treatment. The review covers the role of β-CD as an auxiliary agent in dyeing, and as a matrix for dye adsorption until chemical modifications are applied as a finishing agent. Finally, new perspectives about its use in textiles, such as in smart materials for microbial control, are presented.

New Perspectives on the Efficacy of Gallic Acid in Cosmetics & Nanocosmeceuticals

BACKGROUND

Gallic acid (GA-3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid), a phenolic phytochemical, is a ubiquitous secondary metabolite found in most plants, with appreciable concentrations in grapes seed, rose flowers, sumac, oak and witch hazel. GA often results from the hydrolysis of terpenes and the polyphenol tannic acid.

APPLICATIONS

It exhibits powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and anti-cancer activities. Most intriguing benefit has been reported to be on the skin. Due to these beneficial properties, GA and its derivatives (e.g. lipid-soluble phenols such as synthetic gallic esters aka gallates) have been extensively used as an adjuvant in a number of therapeutic formulations, as a substitute of hydrocortisone in children with atopic dermatitis (AD) and other skin conditions (hyperpigmentation, wound healing), and as a cosmetic ingredient. GA has a USFDA GRAS status (generally recognized as safe), exhibiting fairly low systemic toxicity and associated mortality at acute doses in many experimental models. Despite anti-skin aging benefits obtained with relatively safe GA formulations, few cases of gallate-induced skin allergic have been reported in humans. Therefore, approaches to improve the bioavailability and biodegradability of this poor-water soluble and non-biodegradable phenolic compound are warranted.

PURPOSE

This review has focused on the recently reported biological activities pertaining to the skin as well as the pharmacological properties of GA and its derivatives with special emphasis on its use in (nano-) cosmetic formulations. Since this is an evolving area of research, an adequate emphasis has been placed upon advantages and disadvantages of various nanoformulations.

Bio-Functional Textiles: Combining Pharmaceutical Nanocarriers with Fibrous Materials for Innovative Dermatological Therapies

In the field of pharmaceutical technology, significant attention has been paid on exploiting skin as a drug administration route. Considering the structural and chemical complexity of the skin barrier, many research works focused on developing an innovative way to enhance skin drug permeation. In this context, a new class of materials called bio-functional textiles has been developed. Such materials consist of the combination of advanced pharmaceutical carriers with textile materials. Therefore, they own the possibility of providing a wearable platform for continuous and controlled drug release. Notwithstanding the great potential of these materials, their large-scale application still faces some challenges. The present review provides a state-of-the-art perspective on the bio-functional textile technology analyzing the several issues involved. Firstly, the skin physiology, together with the dermatological delivery strategy, is keenly described in order to provide an overview of the problems tackled by bio-functional textiles technology. Secondly, an overview of the main dermatological nanocarriers is provided; thereafter the application of these nanomaterial to textiles is presented. Finally, the bio-functional textile technology is framed in the context of the different dermatological administration strategies; a comparative analysis that also considers how pharmaceutical regulation is conducted.

Essential Oil Microcapsules Immobilized on Textiles and Certain Induced Effects

In order to obtain textile materials with potential utility in the development of cosmetic textiles, this study examined the deposition by padding of rose and sage microcapsules on woven textile structures, with different fiber compositions (100% cotton and 50% cotton/50% polyester). Cationization of the textile materials was performed to enhance the degree of uptake the pf the microcapsules on the fabrics’ surface. A commercially acrylate-based binder was used to fix the microcapsules to the textile substrate and to improve the durability against external factors. The finished textile materials were characterized in terms of their physical-mechanical characteristics. The distribution of microcapsules on the fabrics surface before and after five washing cycles and 1000 abrasion cycles was investigated by scanning electron microscopy. The biocompatibility in terms of cell viability, cell membrane integrity and inflammation status of the functionalized fabrics was evaluated on CCD-1070Sk normal human dermal fibroblasts. The cell morphology was evaluated by F-actin staining using fluorescence microscopy and no significant changes were noticed after the incubation in the presence of fabrics compared with control. The in vitro biocompatibility evaluation on human skin cells confirmed the absence of cytotoxicity after the short-term exposure, supporting further in vivo use of these innovative textiles with improved properties.

In-Situ Direct Synthesis of HKUST-1 in Wool Fabric for the Improvement of Antibacterial Properties

The use of Metal-Organic Frameworks (MOF) such as HKUST-1 in textiles is an alternative with regard to the development of technologies that are increasingly seeking for functionalities, mainly in the fields of health and hygiene, named biofunctional fabrics. However, the application of the MOF under the surface of the wool fiber can lead to a low durability finish due to its low fixation. Thus, this project aims to perform the direct synthesis of HKUST in the wool fiber, so that a product with good washing durability can be obtained. The purpose of this study was to incorporate metal-organic frameworks, composed of copper and trimesic acid, into woolen fabrics, to improve the antibacterial properties. The synthesis was performed directly in the wool fabric, at time intervals of 24 and 48 h. The resulting fabrics were characterized by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy (EDS), X-Ray Diffractometry (XRD), Fourier Transform Spectroscopy Infrared-Attenuated Total Reflectance (FTIR-ATR), and colorimetric analysis (CIElab), and the Antimicrobial Activity Test (American Association of Textile Chemist and Colourists - AATCC Test Method 61-2007-2A) was performed. The results suggested that the application produced textiles with antibacterial properties, showing activity against Escherichia coli.

Onion (Allium cepa L.) Skin: A Rich Resource of Biomolecules for the Sustainable Production of Colored Biofunctional Textiles

The aqueous extract of dry onion skin waste from the 'Dorata di Parma' cultivar was tested as a new source of biomolecules for the production of colored and biofunctional wool yarns, through environmentally friendly dyeing procedures. Specific attention was paid to the antioxidant and UV protection properties of the resulting textiles. On the basis of spectrophotometric and mass spectrometry analyses, the obtained deep red-brown color was assigned to quercetin and its glycoside derivatives. The Folin⁻Ciocalteu method revealed good phenol uptakes on the wool fiber (higher than 27% for the textile after the first dyeing cycle), with respect to the original total content estimated in the water extract (78.50 ± 2.49 mg equivalent gallic acid/g onion skin). The manufactured materials showed remarkable antioxidant activity and ability to protect human skin against lipid peroxidation following UV radiation: 7.65 ± 1.43 (FRAP assay) and 13.60 (ORAC assay) mg equivalent trolox/g textile; lipid peroxidation inhibition up to 89.37%. This photoprotective and antioxidant activity were therefore ascribed to the polyphenol pool contained in the outer dried gold skins of onion. It is worth noting that citofluorimetric analysis demonstrated that the aqueous extract does not have a significative influence on cell viability, neither is capable of inducing a proapoptotic effect.