New insights into the nature of the wool fibre surface

Development of novel parameters for characterising scale morphology of wool fibre and its correlation with dye diffusion coefficient of acid dye

This paper reports the development of novel surface parameters which can be used to characterise the scale structure of wool fibres obtained from different breeds. Scanning electron microscopy and subsequent image analysis technique were used to study wool fibres from Leicester, Dartmoor, Ryeland and Herdwick breeds of sheep. Novel scale parameters related to wool fibre's effective chemical diffusion pathway were developed. Namely, the total scale perimeter per 100 µm fibre length and scale perimeter index, which is the total scale perimeter per 100 µm length divided by the fibre diameter. Wool fibres obtained from different breeds showed significant differences in their scale pattern with the change in fibre diameter. The scale perimeter per 100 µm length increased with the fibre diameter and showed a polynomial correlation. It was also demonstrated that an increase in the diameter of the wool fibre resulted in an increase in the apparent dye diffusion coefficient, which contrasts the established theory that finer fibres are associated with a higher dyeing rate. The increase in effective diffusion pathway (total scale perimeter per 100 µm) for the wool fibres (among different breeds) resulted in a higher dye diffusion rate at the initial phase of dyeing (liquor to surface).

Cuticle - Designed by Nature for the Sake of the Hair

OBJECTIVE

The cuticle of human hair has been examined, via a range of analytical methods, in order to reveal previously unknown information about its structure and to deepen understanding of its contribution to fibre properties.

METHODS

Cross sections of hair fibre have been examined with X-ray microdiffraction oriented perpendicular to the surface of the cross-sections. AFM investigations were carried out for further investigating and deciphering the structure of the cuticle. Moisture sorption analytics of cuticle separated from fibre, and mechanical tests of decuticled fibres against virgin fibres, were used for understanding the role of the cuticle in the economy of hair fibre.

RESULTS

Previously unknown swelling behaviour of the hair cuticle during moisture sorption has been revealed, as has an increased significance of the cuticle's role in moisture management at higher values of relative humidity. Through AFM investigation, the reaction of hair cuticles with chlorine water has further strengthened the idea that the Allwörden membrane does not exist, and is actually an artefact of the delamination of the A-layer and exocuticle from the underlying endocuticle. Using decuticled fibres for stress-strain tests, and by comparing the results with those of virgin fibres, the effect of the cuticle on the post-yield area of the hair fibre stress-strain diagram has also been demonstrated. Finally, X-ray microdiffraction and AFM investigations suggest that the cuticle possesses a small-scale ordered structure, based on possibly not fully crystalline and irregularly arranged α-helices oriented almost perpendicular to the growth axis of the fibre and enhancing the general description of cuticle as the protective layer of the fibre.

CONCLUSION

The role of the cuticle for the hair fibre is more complex than previously thought. The cuticle is demonstrated not only to possess a hidden rod-matrix structure, that supports its protective nature, but also to play specific roles in the fibre's response to moisture, and in fibre mechanical behaviour.

Physicochemical Aspects of the Performance of Hair-Conditioning Formulations

Most of the currently used products for repairing and conditioning hair rely on the deposition of complex formulations, based on mixtures involving macromolecules and surfactants, onto the surface of hair fibers. This leads to the partial covering of the damaged areas appearing in the outermost region of capillary fibers, which enables the decrease of the friction between fibers, improving their manageability and hydration. The optimization of shampoo and conditioner formulations necessitates a careful examination of the different physicochemical parameters related to the conditioning mechanism, e.g., the thickness of the deposits, its water content, topography or frictional properties. This review discusses different physicochemical aspects which impact the understanding of the most fundamental bases of the conditioning process.

Nanodiamond Fabrication of Superhydrophilic Wool Fabrics

Nanodiamonds (ND) have been gaining impetus in fields such as medicine and electronics. ND has been widely used to modify polymer surfaces and composites for improved functionality. However, there have been limited research on ND application in regard to textile substrates. In this study, we presented a sustainable coating method, adapted to functionalized ND particles that would be coated onto wool fabric surfaces to enhance hydrophilicity. The application of an ND coating was found to increase wool hydrophilicity because of the presence of additional polar groups, shown by Fourier transform infrared spectrometry, which increased surface energy and fiber roughness. Scanning electron microscopy images revealed that the polar ND-coated wool scales demonstrated improved fiber hydrophilicity. Water absorbency, wicking, and contact angle results for coated fabrics confirmed significant improvement in hydrophilicity, which was directly related to the concentration of ND particles. The optimal concentration of ND was therefore selected to coat the wool fabric. Furthermore, tensile strength and abrasion resistance of the coated fabrics were increased due to the exceptional mechanical properties of ND.

Adsorption of polyelectrolytes and polyelectrolytes-surfactant mixtures at surfaces: a physico-chemical approach to a cosmetic challenge

The use of polymer and polymer - surfactant mixtures for designing and developing textile and personal care cosmetic formulations is associated with various physico-chemical aspects, e.g. detergency and conditioning in the case of hair or wool, that determine their correct performances in preserving and improving the appearance and properties of the surface where they are applied. In this work, special attention is paid to the systems combining polycations and negatively charged surfactants. The paper introduces the hair surface and presents a comprehensive review of the adsorption properties of these systems at solid-water interfaces mimicking the negative charge and surface energy of hair. These model surfaces include mixtures of thiols that confer various charge densities to the surface. The kinetics and factors that govern the adsorption are discussed from the angle of those used in shampoos and conditioners developed by the cosmetic industry. Finally, systems able to adsorb onto negatively charged surfaces regardless of the anionic character are presented, opening new ways of depositing conditioning polymers onto keratin substrates such as hair.

Distribution and localization of hydrophobic and ionic chemical groups at the surface of bleached human hair fibers

A chemical mapping with high lateral resolution using an atomic force microscope in the pulsed force mode with chemically modified tips, introduced as "dynamic chemical force microscopy" (dCFM), was carried out to investigate the chemical properties of the cuticle of human hair and its changes following an oxidative treatment. Chemically modified atomic force microscopy (AFM) tips, CH3- and NH2-terminated, were applied to achieve a defined chemical contrast (hydrophobic and ionic) in aqueous medium. A comparative Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy-attenuated total reflection identified the dominant chemical groups of the surface vicinity of the hair fiber resulting from the bleaching process. The combined experimental results lead to the conclusion that the hydrophobic top layer is partially removed after bleaching, resulting mostly in hydrophilic SO3(-) end groups at the top of the surface of the hair, with a mean surface density "δ(mean)" of negatively charged groups of approximately 2.2 molecules/nm(2), corresponding to ∼600 μg/m(2) cysteic acid. This indicates that thioester bonds are disrupted and fatty acids are removed as a result of cysteine oxidation. At the molecular level, our results indicate a clustered "self-assembled monolayer" alignment of cysteic acid with a crystal-like structuring, reminiscent of the "fluid mosaic model of cell membranes", with a surface energy of approximately 0.04 N/m. Despite previous extensive works of AFM on human hair, this is, to our knowledge, the first time that the hydrophobic and ionic sites at the top surface of hair have been imaged at the nanoscale with dCFM.

Overcoming interfacial affinity issues in natural fiber reinforced polylactide biocomposites by surface adsorption of amphiphilic block copolymers

This work demonstrates that the interfacial properties in a natural fiber reinforced polylactide bio-composite can be tailored through surface adsorption of amphiphilic and biodegradable poly (ethylene glycol)-b-poly(l-lactide) (PEG-PLLA) block copolymers. The deposition from solvent solution of PEG-PLLA copolymers onto the fibrous substrate induced distinct mechanisms of molecular organization at the cellulosic interface, which are correlated to the hydrophobic/hydrophilic ratios and the type of solvent used. The findings of the study evidenced that the performance of the corresponding biocomposites with polylactide were effectively enhanced by using these copolymers as interfacial coupling agents. During the fabrication stage, diffusion of the polylactide in the melt induced a change in the environment surrounding block copolymers which became hydrophobic. It is proposed that molecular reorganization of the block copolymers at the interface occurred, which favored the interactions with both the hydrophilic fibers and hydrophobic polylactide matrix. The strong interactions such as intra- and intermolecular hydrogen bonds formed across the fiber-matrix interface can be accounted for the enhancement in properties displayed by the biocomposites. Although the results reported here are confined, this concept is unique as it shows that by tuning the amphiphilicity and the type of building blocks, it is possible to control the surface properties of the substrate by self-assembly and disassembly of the amphiphiles for functional materials.

Application of anisotropic silver nanoparticles: multifunctionalization of wool fabric

Anisotropic silver nanoparticles (NPs) were successfully employed to color the wool fabrics in this study. The modified wool fabrics exhibited brilliant colors due to the localized surface plasmon resonance (LSPR) properties of silver NPs. The colors of wool fabrics altered with the morphologies of silver NPs. These modified wool fabrics were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS). The results indicated that anisotropic silver NPs were effectively assembled on the surface of wool fibers when the solution pH and temperature was about 4 and 40°C, respectively. This assembling of silver NPs on the wool fibers was realized by the electrostatic interaction between wool fibers and silver NPs. This technique was also applied to gold NPs. The fabrics treated with anisotropic silver NPs showed high antibacterial activity against the bacteria of Escherichia coli. This study opens a new approach to color and functionalize conventional textile materials.

Fabricating superhydrophilic wool fabrics

A simple method for fabricating environmentally stable superhydrophilic wool fabrics is reported here. An ultrathin silica layer coated on the wool altered both the surface roughness and the surface energy of the fiber and endowed the wool fabrics with excellent water absorption. The process of coating silica sols was dependent on an acid solution of low pH, which influenced the electrostatic interactions between nanoparticles and wool fibers. The morphology and composition of silica-sol-coated wool fabrics were characterized by a combination of SEM, TEM, EDX, FTIR, and XPS measurements. The possible mechanism and size effect of silica nanoparticles on the hydrophilic property of wool fabric were discussed. The washing fastness of the superhydrophilic wool fabrics in perchlorethylene and water was also evaluated. This study shows that wool fabrics modified by optical transparence, chemical stability, and nontoxic silica sols are promising in constructing smart textiles.

Adsorption and lubricating properties of poly(l-lysine)-graft-poly(ethylene glycol) on human-hair surfaces

We have characterized the adsorption and lubricating properties of the polycation-PEG graft copolymer poly(l-lysine)-graft-poly(ethylene glycol) (PLL-g-PEG) on human-hair surfaces by means of X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), fluorescence microscopy, and atomic force microscopy (AFM). XPS measurements indicated that PLL-g-PEG copolymers spontaneously adsorbed onto the surface of bleached-hair samples (a good model of a weathered, damaged hair surface for cosmetic care applications) from an aqueous solution. Further treatment with cationic surfactants present in common shampoo formulations removed the adsorbed PLL-g-PEG from the hair samples. Fluorescence microscopy showed that the adsorption of PLL-g-PEG onto the hair samples from an aqueous polymer solution occurred inhomogeneously. Nanotribological studies with AFM (friction vs load plots) revealed that the relationship between load and friction was approximately linear for all hair samples, while the slopes of the plots varied considerably along the hair sample surface. Under ambient, "dry" conditions, the frictional properties of the bleached, bleached + PLL-g-PEG-treated, and bleached + PLL-g-PEG-treated and subsequently surfactant-treated hair samples did not reveal a clear difference. In distilled water, however, the bleached + PLL-g-PEG-treated hair samples showed statistically lower frictional properties than simply bleached or bleached + PLL-g-PEG-treated and subsequently surfactant-treated hair samples. Overall, the three instrumental techniques have consistently shown that the adsorption of PLL-g-PEG onto the hair sample surface occurs unevenly, which can be ascribed to the intrinsically heterogeneous properties of the human-hair surface. A control experiment, involving an injection of concentrated PLL-g-PEG solution into a liquid cell where an AFM tip was already scanning over a specific area (line scan mode), revealed an immediate and apparent reduction in the frictional force. Despite the inhomogeneity of the hair surface, the adsorption of the polymer seems to be extremely effective in promoting lubrication of the fiber. This suggests that the adsorbed graft copolymers act as a boundary lubricant on the hair surface. The presence of a more organized, brushlike layer of polymers contrasts with the usual random adsorption of chains that is believed to be present in the case of linear polyelectrolytes that are nowadays applied for shampoos and conditioners in the cosmetic or textile industries.