Investigations of the historic textiles excavated from Ancient Ainos (Enez – Turkey) by multiple analytical techniques

Non-invasive identification of historical textiles and leather by means of external reflection FTIR spectroscopy

Identifying the fibres in historical textiles presents a complex challenge due to the wide variety of plant, animal and early synthetic materials that have been used. Traditionally, this identification process involves sampling followed by either microscopic examination or ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. However, there are instances when sampling is restricted due to the good condition or significant value of the object under analysis. Additionally, the presence of leather components alongside textiles can further complicate the identification. This paper proposes a novel non-invasive method for fibre identification based on External Reflection (ER) FTIR spectroscopy, which has been rarely applied to textiles or leather. The current research demonstrates that ER-FTIR spectrum is a viable tool for fibre identification on both recent and historical textiles. The non-invasiveness of the analytical approach enables a comprehensive investigation without compromising the number or position of samples. Respect to ATR-FTIR spectra, the ER-FTIR spectra frequently exhibit an amplification of certain diagnostic bands, facilitating the identification of the various fibres examined in this study (cotton, hemp, viscose, silk, wool, leather, polyamide, acrylic, polyester). The extended spectral range (7500-375 cm-1) which is provided by ER-FTIR spectrometry also contains extra bands in the near infrared region, which can provide key information for the discrimination due to the lack of distortion phenomena. The technique was applied to the characterisation of textile materials coming from a collection of 10 traditional Japanese samurai armours spanning from the 16th to the 20th century (Museo delle Culture, Lugano, Switzerland). For the first time, the results provided a comprehensive overview of the textiles utilized in Japanese armours across various historical periods. Overall, the appearance of materials in samurai armours reflects the evolution of armour-making techniques and the influence of socio-cultural factors throughout Japanese history. Synthetic and semi-synthetic materials were easily detected, revealing the occurrence of a past conservation treatment or the early adoption of modern man-made materials in the manufacturing of traditional armours. The approach outlined in this case study can be applied to textile collections of various kinds, offering a reliable mean to discern the yarn composition and detect non-original components. The method also appears as a valuable prescreening tool for designing a less intrusive yet more informative sampling strategy, should additional details about fibre type and dyeing be necessary.

Effect of cocooning conditions on the structure, carbon and nitrogen isotope ratios of silks

The stable isotope technique provides the possibility to trace ancient textiles because the technique is associated with advantages such as trace indication, fast detection, and accurate results. Since different cocooning conditions may impact cocoons even under identical habitats, it is important to investigate the effects of different cocooning temperatures and humidity on the isotope incorporation values in the cocoons. In this study, silk fibers were reeled under different conditions of temperature and humidity, followed by analysis of the secondary structure of cocoon proteins and isotope incorporation patterns. We found that the deviations in carbon isotope values of silk under different cocooning conditions could reach up to 0.76‰, while the deviation in carbon isotope values at different locations of a single silk was 2.75‰. Further, during the cocooning process, depletion of the 13C-isotope at different locations of the silk fibers was observed, reducing the δ13C values. We proposed that the changes in carbon isotopes in silk were related to the content of sericin and silk fibroin in silk. Finally, we did not observe a significant difference in isotope ratios in degummed cocoons. In summary, the 13C isotope was enriched in sericin, whereas 15N was enriched in fibroin, and these findings provide basic information for tracing the provenance of silks.

Historical Silk: A Novel Method to Evaluate Degumming with Non-Invasive Infrared Spectroscopy and Spectral Deconvolution

To correctly manage a collection of historical silks, it is important to detect if the yarn has been originally subjected to degumming. This process is generally applied to eliminate sericin; the obtained fiber is named soft silk, in contrast with hard silk which is unprocessed. The distinction between hard and soft silk gives both historical information and useful indications for informed conservation. With this aim, 32 samples of silk textiles from traditional Japanese samurai armors (15th-20th century) were characterized in a non-invasive way. ATR-FTIR spectroscopy has been previously used to detect hard silk, but data interpretation is challenging. To overcome this difficulty, an innovative analytical protocol based on external reflection FTIR (ER-FTIR) spectroscopy was employed, coupled with spectral deconvolution and multivariate data analysis. The ER-FTIR technique is rapid, portable, and widely employed in the cultural heritage field, but rarely applied to the study of textiles. The ER-FTIR band assignment for silk was discussed for the first time. Then, the evaluation of the OH stretching signals allowed for a reliable distinction between hard and soft silk. Such an innovative point of view, which exploits a "weakness" of FTIR spectroscopy-the strong absorption from water molecules-to indirectly obtain the results, can have industrial applications too.

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

A multi-tool analytical practice was used for the characterisation of a 16th century carpet manufactured in Cairo. A mild extraction method with hydrofluoric acid has been evaluated in order to isolate intact flavonoids and their glycosides, anthraquinones, tannins, and indigoids from fibre samples. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled to spectroscopic and mass spectrometric detectors was used for the identification of possible marker compounds with special attention paid to natural dyes present in the historical samples. Weld, young fustic, and soluble redwood dye were identified as the dye sources in yellow thread samples. Based on the developed method, it was possible to establish that red fibres were coloured with lac dye, whereas green fibre shades were obtained with indigo and weld. Tannin-containing plant material in combination with indigo and weld were used to obtain the brown hue of the thread. Hyphenation of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (QTOF MS) and triple-quadrupole mass spectrometry (QqQ MS) enabled us to recognise four uncommon and thus-far unknown dye components that were also found in the historical samples. These compounds probably represent a unique fingerprint of dyed threads manufactured in a Turkish workshop. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used for the identification and characterisation of substrates and mordants present in the historical carpet. Carbon and oxygen were detected in large quantities as a part of the wool protein. The presence of aluminium, iron, and calcium indicated their usage as mordants. Trace amounts of copper, silica, and magnesium might originate from the contaminants. FT-IR analysis showed bands characteristic for woollen fibres and SEM micrographs defined the structure of the wool.