The 6-Minute Walk Test as a Predictor of Summit Success on Denali

Do cardiopulmonary exercise tests predict summit success and acute mountain sickness? A prospective observational field study at extreme altitude

OBJECTIVE

During a high-altitude expedition, the association of cardiopulmonary exercise testing (CPET) parameters with the risk of developing acute mountain sickness (AMS) and the chance of reaching the summit were investigated.

METHODS

Thirty-nine subjects underwent maximal CPET at lowlands and during ascent to Mount Himlung Himal (7126 m) at 4844 m, before and after 12 days of acclimatisation, and at 6022 m. Daily records of Lake-Louise-Score (LLS) determined AMS. Participants were categorised as AMS+ if moderate to severe AMS occurred.

RESULTS

Maximal oxygen uptake (V̇O_2max) decreased by 40.5%±13.7% at 6022 m and improved after acclimatisation (all p<0.001). Ventilation at maximal exercise (VE_max) was reduced at 6022 m, but higher VE_max was related to summit success (p=0.031). In the 23 AMS+ subjects (mean LLS 7.4±2.4), a pronounced exercise-induced oxygen desaturation (ΔSpO_2exercise) was found after arrival at 4844 m (p=0.005). ΔSpO_2exercise >-14.0% identified 74% of participants correctly with a sensitivity of 70% and specificity of 81% for predicting moderate to severe AMS. All 15 summiteers showed higher V̇O_2max (p<0.001), and a higher risk of AMS in non-summiteers was suggested but did not reach statistical significance (OR: 3.64 (95% CI: 0.78 to 17.58), p=0.057). V̇O_2max ≥49.0 mL/min/kg at lowlands and ≥35.0 mL/min/kg at 4844 m predicted summit success with a sensitivity of 46.7% and 53.3%, and specificity of 83.3% and 91.3%, respectively.

CONCLUSION

Summiteers were able to sustain higher VE_max throughout the expedition. Baseline V̇O_2max below 49.0 mL/min/kg was associated with a high chance of 83.3% for summit failure, when climbing without supplemental oxygen. A pronounced drop of SpO_2exercise at 4844 m may identify climbers at higher risk of AMS.

Older Age as a Predictive Risk Factor for Acute Mountain Sickness

BACKGROUND

Older populations are increasing and comprise a substantial portion of high-altitude travelers. Aging physiology may influence susceptibility to acute mountain sickness, though prior research remains inconclusive. The goal of this study was to investigate the relationship between increasing age and acute mountain sickness.

METHODS

This study was a pooled analysis of 5 prospective randomized controlled trials conducted at White Mountain, California from 2010, 2016-2019 with identical 4-hour rapid ascent from 1242 m to overnight sojourn at 3810 m. Acute mountain sickness was defined by the 2018 Lake Louise Questionnaire criteria.

RESULTS

There were 491 participants analyzed, 234 (48%) diagnosed with acute mountain sickness and 71 (14%) with moderate acute mountain sickness. Mean age was 37 years (±13). There was no significant correlation between Lake Louise Questionnaire severity and age (r = -0.02; 95% confidence interval [CI], -0.11-0.07, P = .7), 40-year-old dichotomy (t = -0.6; 95% CI, -0.53-0.28, P = .6), or decade of life (P = .4). Logistic regression found no increased odds of acute mountain sickness for increasing age by decade of life (odds ratio [OR] 1.0; 95% CI, 0.97-1.0) or 40-year-old dichotomy (OR 1.4; 95% CI, 0.97-2.1). A history of acute mountain sickness increased odds of acute mountain sickness (OR 3.2; 95% CI, 1.5-7.7).

CONCLUSIONS

Older age was not associated with incidence nor severity of acute mountain sickness. A history of altitude illness increased odds of acute mountain sickness and should be used for pre-ascent risk stratification.

Predictive Capacity of Pulmonary Function Tests for Acute Mountain Sickness

Small, Elan, Nicholas Juul, David Pomeranz, Patrick Burns, Caleb Phillips, Mary Cheffers, and Grant S. Lipman. Predictive capacity of pulmonary function tests for acute mountain sickness. High Alt Med Biol. 22: 193-200, 2021. Background: Pulmonary function as measured by spirometry has been investigated at altitude with heterogenous results, though data focused on spirometry and acute mountain sickness (AMS) are limited. The objective of this study was to investigate the capacity of pulmonary function tests (PFTs) to predict the development of AMS. Materials and Methods: This study was a blinded prospective observational study run during a randomized controlled trial comparing acetazolamide, budesonide, and placebo for AMS prevention on White Mountain, CA. Spirometry measurements of forced expiratory volume in one second (FEV₁), forced vital capacity (FVC), and peak expiratory flow were taken at a baseline altitude of 1,250 m, and the evening of and morning after ascent to 3,810 m. Measurements were assessed for correlation with AMS. Results: One hundred three participants were analyzed with well-matched baseline demographics and AMS incidence of 75 (73%) and severe AMS of 48 (47%). There were no statistically significant associations between changes in mean spirometry values on ascent to high altitude with incidence of AMS or severe AMS. Lake Louise Questionnaire scores were negatively correlated with FVC (r = -0.31) and FEV₁ (r = -0.29) the night of ascent. Baseline PFT had a predictive accuracy of 65%-73% for AMS, with a receiver operating characteristic of 0.51-0.65. Conclusions: Spirometry did not demonstrate statistically significant changes on ascent to high altitude, nor were there significant associations with incidence of AMS or severe AMS. Low-altitude spirometry did not accurately predict development of AMS, and it should not be recommended for risk stratification.