A Measurement and Modeling Study of Hair Partition of Neutral, Cationic, and Anionic Chemicals

pH-equilibration of human hair: Kinetics and pH-dependence of the partition ratios for H − and OH -ions based on a Freundlich isotherm

Hair is an insoluble, fibrous, α-keratinous, protein composite material, providing outer coverage, e.g., for mammals. In the context of a wider study on the effects of pH on human hair properties, we investigated the time-dependence of pH-equilibration study across the acid and the basic pH-range, using appropriate pure solutions of hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide. The results show that pH-equilibration follows essentially equal 1^st-order kinetics across the pH-range. The characteristic process time does not change significantly and is in the range of 2.5-5 h. The analysis enables to determine the equilibrium uptakes of H⁺- and OH^- -ions. These follow the expected U-shaped path across the pH-range. For both acidic and alkaline conditions, data are well described by two very similar sorption isotherms of the Freundlich-type. In consequence, partition ratios for both ions are highest near neutrality (pH 7: >6000) and drop off strongly towards low and high pHs (<50). Hair is thus a very strong 'sink' for H⁺ and OH^-. This observation fundamentally challenges traditional views of limited ion uptake, namely, in the mid-pH-range due to hindered diffusion. It also does not support considerations on special roles of certain pHs, specific groups of amino acids, or morphological components. Our analysis thus suggests that established views of the interaction of hair and pH need to be reconsidered, The Freundlich isotherm approach appears to provide a versatile tool to refine our understanding of the interactions of hair and possibly other keratinous materials (horn, nail, feathers) with acids and bases.

Strategies for improved hair binding: Keratin fractions and the impact of cationic substructures

Keratin extracts and hydrolysates from varying sources, their chemical modifications and compositions thereof have shown potential in the restoration of hair properties. Within this study on reactivity of thiol groups and the shielding effect of anionic charges the binding of keratin-associated proteins (KAP) and α-keratins (Ker) extracted from human hair to natural and permed hair fibers was evaluated. Selectively extracted KAP and Ker were preactivated with 6-mercaptonicotinamide in a quantity of 194 ± 21 μmol/g for KAP and 169 ± 27 μmol/g for Ker resulting in 1.9- and 1.4-fold enhanced binding to natural hair, respectively. The amount of accumulated Ker on hair fibers was furthermore increased by 1.7-fold in presence of 25 mM L-arginine. Perming of hair impaired binding characteristics of Ker with negligible effects for preactivation, whereas unmodified and preactivated KAP showed results comparable to natural hair. Strongly enhanced penetrability after perming was reflected by the mean penetration depth for fluorescein of 25 μm compared to 5 μm for natural fibers.