Formulation and Evaluation of Moisturizer Containing Herbal Extracts for the Management of Dry Skin

Fingerprint of Nature—Skin Penetration Analysis of a Stinging Nettle PlantCrystals Formulation

Background: PlantCrystals are a new concept to produce plant-based formulations. Their principle is based on the diminution of parts of or whole plants. In this study, the effect of a surfactant on stinging nettle leaf PlantCrystals was investigated. Secondly, the contents of bulk material and the PlantCrystals formulation were compared. In addition, for the very first time, the skin penetration of PlantCrystals was investigated. Methods: Stinging nettle leaves were milled with high-pressure homogenization. Sizes were analyzed via light microscopy and static light scattering. To investigate the effect of the milling, the flavonoid and total carotenoid content were determined, and the antioxidant capacity of the formulation was measured via total polyphenol content and DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) assay. Finally, the impact on skin penetration was investigated. Results: Size analysis showed a stabilizing effect of the surfactant, and the chemical analysis revealed higher flavonoid and polyphenol contents for PlantCrystals. The penetration of the formulation into the stratum corneum was shown to be promising; PlantCrystals possessed a visually perceived higher fluorescence and homogeneity compared to the bulk material. Conclusion: The concept of PlantCrystals improved the availability of valuable constituents and the penetration efficacy. The utilization of the natural chlorophyll fluorescence for skin penetration analysis of plant-based formulations proved itself highly effective.

Optimization of Ultrasound-Assisted Emulsification of Emollient Nanoemulsions of Seed Oil of Passiflora edulis var. edulis

Passiflora edulis var. edulis is a plant of commercial interest because of it fruits. The seeds, a by-product in the food industry, can be a source of oil for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries. The aims of this work were to optimize the ultrasonic-assisted emulsification conditions for o/w nanoemulsions and to evaluate the emollient activity of the seed oil. The optimum emulsification conditions were established, using the response surface methodology with a Box-Behnken design (BBD). The emollient activity of seed oil of P. edulis var. edulis was evaluated with healthy volunteers using a cutometer for skin moisture and viscoelasticity measurements. The optimal formulation variables (85.34 W of ultrasonic power, 5.96 irradiation time, 70.65% water and a 5:4 oil:surfactant ratio), resulted in considerable improvement in the properties of the ultrasonically formulated nanoemulsions. Finally, the seed oil of P. edulis var. edulis and the nanoemulsion generated by ultrasound presented emollient activity.

Assessment of non-invasive techniques and herbal-based products on dermatological physiology and intercellular lipid properties

Skin is the largest external organ of the human body. It acts as a barrier to protect the human body from environmental pollution, mechanical stress, and excessive water loss. The defensive function resides primarily on top of the epidermis layer commonly known as stratum corneum (SC). Human SC consists of three major lipids, namely ceramide, free fatty acid, and cholesterol that comprise approximately 50%, 25%, and 25% of the total lipid mass, respectively. The optimal composition of SC lipids is the vital epidermal barrier function of the skin. On the other hand, skin barrier serves to limit passive water loss from the body, reduces chemical absorption from the environment, and prevents microbial infection. In contrast, epidermal lipids are important to maintain the cell structure, growth and differentiation, cohesion and desquamation as well as formation of a permeability barrier. Multiple non-invasive in vivo approaches were implemented on a regular basis to monitor skin physiological and intercellular lipid properties. The measurement of different parameters such as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration level, skin elasticity, collagen intensity, melanin content, sebum, pH, and tape stripping is essential to evaluate the epidermal barrier function. Novel non-invasive techniques such as tape stripping, ultrasound imaging, and laser confocal microscopy offer higher possibility of accurate and detailed characterisation of skin barrier. To date, these techniques have also been widely used to determine the effects of herbal plants in dermatology. Herbal plants have been traditionally used for ages to treat a variety of skin diseases, as reported by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Their availability, lower cost, and minimal or no side effects have created awareness among society, thus increase the demand for natural sources as the remedy to treat various skin diseases. This paper reviews several non-invasive techniques and evaluations of herbal-based product in dermatology.

Skin care and rejuvenation by cosmeceutical facial mask

Skin health is an important aspect of aesthetics. Dermatologists and scientists try to develop novel methods and materials to fulfill this aim. Facial cosmetics keep skin moist and remove sebum from the skin to maintain proper skin health. The use of suitable cosmetics according to the facial skin type results in healthy skin. Facial masks are the most prevalent cosmetic products utilized for skin rejuvenation. Facial masks are divided into four groups: (a) sheet masks; (b) peel-off masks; (c) rinse-off masks; and (d) hydrogels. Each of these has some advantages for specific skin types based on the ingredients used. The following article presents the available information about the facial mask. Also, we have focused on the facial masks available in the market. Despite several developments in this field, extensive research is required for performing successful and precise clinical trials in the future. Further improvements would enable the researchers to develop new products in this field. In this review, we present the most recent breakthroughs in the field of skin care and rejuvenation by cosmeceutical facial mask. This information is valuable to get the picture of the latest trends and also helpful for clinicians and related manufacturing companies.