Analysis of Interannual and Seasonal Nearshore Bar Behaviour Observed from Decadal Optical Satellite Data in the Curonian Spit, Baltic Sea

Long-term observations of nearshore bar behaviour are a vital component of coastal monitoring, management, and prediction. Optical satellite remote sensing enables the possibility of such observations over large spatial areas, but its full potential remains unexploited. This study assessed alongshore variability in cross-shore nearshore bar behaviour on a wave-dominated multi-bar coast of the Curonian Spit (south-eastern Baltic Sea) between 2011 and 2021, using satellite-derived bar data. Nearshore bars were extracted from a time series of PlanetScope and RapidEye satellite images with an automated GIS-based algorithm, previously proposed by the study authors. The cross-shore behaviour of a multiple bar system was analysed by adapting traditional bathymetry-based analysis techniques to satellite-derived data that included bar crestlines and images of multi-scale Relative Bathymetric Position Index (RBPI). The analysis was performed on 1071 shore-perpendicular transects. Multi-bar onshore and offshore migration rates were quantified on interannual and seasonal timescales. The results show that, on an interannual timescale, bars migrated offshore at rates up to 9.7 m/month, while the rates of onshore migration reached up to 11 m/month. During the months of low wave energy, bars moved offshore at rates up to 6.2 m/month, and during the months of high wave energy, up to 12.9 m/month. However onshore migration rates, during the months of low and high wave energy, reached up to 7.0 and 13.4 m/month, respectively. A complex empirical orthogonal function (CEOF) analysis was performed on RBPI-derived cross-shore profiles, and cyclic offshore directed bar behaviour was examined. For the first time, the net offshore migration (NOM) cycle with bar cycle return periods of 1.8 to 13.5 years was investigated on the south-eastern Baltic Sea coast. Bar cycle return periods increased and rates of bar cross-shore migration decreased from north to south along the Curonian Spit. Similar nearshore bar behaviour regions were identified using clustering analysis based on quantified temporal and morphological characteristics of the bars. Factors controlling alongshore variability in bar cross-shore behaviour were determined. The study results suggest that small alongshore variations in nearshore hydrodynamics, caused by the local wave climate and its interplay with the shoreline orientation, determine the morphological and temporal variability of the multi-bar system in the Curonian Spit.

A Novel GIS-Based Approach for Automated Detection of Nearshore Sandbar Morphological Characteristics in Optical Satellite Imagery

Satellite remote sensing is a valuable tool for coastal management, enabling the possibility to repeatedly observe nearshore sandbars. However, a lack of methodological approaches for sandbar detection prevents the wider use of satellite data in sandbar studies. In this paper, a novel fully automated approach to extract nearshore sandbars in high–medium-resolution satellite imagery using a GIS-based algorithm is proposed. The method is composed of a multi-step workflow providing a wide range of data with morphological nearshore characteristics, which include nearshore local relief, extracted sandbars, their crests and shoreline. The proposed processing chain involves a combination of spectral indices, ISODATA unsupervised classification, multi-scale Relative Bathymetric Position Index (RBPI), criteria-based selection operations, spatial statistics and filtering. The algorithm has been tested with 145 dates of PlanetScope and RapidEye imagery using a case study of the complex multiple sandbar system on the Curonian Spit coast, Baltic Sea. The comparison of results against 4 years of in situ bathymetric surveys shows a strong agreement between measured and derived sandbar crest positions (R2 = 0.999 and 0.997) with an average RMSE of 5.8 and 7 m for PlanetScope and RapidEye sensors, respectively. The accuracy of the proposed approach implies its feasibility to study inter-annual and seasonal sandbar behaviour and short-term changes related to high-impact events. Algorithm-provided outputs enable the possibility to evaluate a range of sandbar characteristics such as distance from shoreline, length, width, count or shape at a relevant spatiotemporal scale. The design of the method determines its compatibility with most sandbar morphologies and suitability to other sandy nearshores. Tests of the described technique with Sentinel-2 MSI and Landsat-8 OLI data show that it can be applied to publicly available medium resolution satellite imagery of other sensors.

16 years of topographic surveys of rip-channelled high-energy meso-macrotidal sandy beach

Sandy beaches are highly dynamic environments buffering shores from storm waves and providing outstanding recreational services. Long-term beach monitoring programs are critical to test and improve shoreline, beach morphodynamics and storm impact models. However, these programs are relatively rare and mostly restricted to microtidal alongshore-uniform beaches. The present 16-year dataset contains 326 digital elevation models and their over 1.635 × 10⁶ individual sand level measurements at the high-energy meso-macrotidal rip-channelled Truc Vert beach, southwest France. Monthly to bimonthly topographic surveys, which coverage progressively extended from 300 m to over 2000 m to describe the alongshore-variable changes, are completed by daily topographic surveys acquired during a 5-week field campaign. The dataset captures daily beach response at the scale of a storm to three large cycles of interannual variability, through the impact of the most energetic winter since at least 75 years and prominent seasonal erosion/recovery cycles. The data set is supplemented with high-frequency time series of offshore wave and astronomical tide data to facilitate its future use in beach research.

Measurement(s)	Topography
Technology Type(s)	GPS navigation system
Factor Type(s)	temporal interval
Sample Characteristic - Environment	sandy beach
Sample Characteristic - Location	Aquitaine Region

Machine-accessible metadata file describing the reported data: 10.6084/m9.figshare.13070153

Long-Term Observations of Beach Variability at Hasaki, Japan

Long-term beach observation data for several decades are essential to validate beach morphodynamic models that are used to predict coastal responses to sea-level rise and wave climate changes. At the Hasaki coast, Japan, the beach profile has been measured for 34 years at a daily to weekly time interval. This beach morphological dataset is one of the longest and most high-frequency measurements of the beach morphological change worldwide. The profile data, with more than 6800 records, reflect short- to long-term beach morphological change, showing coastal dune development, foreshore morphological change and longshore bar movement. We investigated the temporal beach variability from the decadal and monthly variations in elevation. Extremely high waves and tidal anomalies from an extratropical cyclone caused a significant change in the long-term bar behavior and foreshore slope. The berm and bar variability were also affected by seasonal wave and water level variations. The variabilities identified here from the long-term observations contribute to our understanding of various coastal phenomena.

Numerical Simulation of Volume Change of the Backshore Induced by Cross-Shore Aeolian Sediment Transport

Predicting the morphological changes of the backshore is vital for appropriate beach management because the backshore plays a significant role in the ecosystem and disaster prevention. In this study, a one-dimensional model was developed and applied to the Hasaki Coast in Japan to predict changes in backshore volume. The volume change was estimated from the difference between the aeolian sediment transport rates at the seaward and landward boundaries of the investigation area, considering the wind velocity and direction, sediment size, precipitation, and vegetation in the process. The model was calibrated and validated using the first and second halves of beach profile data obtained weekly at the Hasaki Coast over a 28-year period from 1987 to 2014. The validation suggests that the model can reasonably reproduce the cumulative volume change, which is the amount of volume change from the initial value, but it underestimates the time-varying fluctuations of the weekly averaged volume-change rate. This can be attributed to the presence of small-scale features, such as dense vegetation and wrack, which are not taken into account in the model. Although the model performance for the cumulative volume change was good, it overpredicted the values in the second half of the validation process. This can be attributed to the fact that the model is not able to predict reductions in the aeolian sediment transport rate caused by an increase in beach steepness.

Automatic Shoreline Position and Intertidal Foreshore Slope Detection from X-Band Radar Images using Modified Temporal Waterline Method with Corrected Wave Run-up

Automatic and accurate shoreline position and intertidal foreshore slope detection are challenging and significantly important for coastal dynamics. In the present study, a time series shoreline position and intertidal foreshore slope have been automatically detected using modified Temporal Waterline Method (mTWM) from time-averaged X-band radar images captured throughout the course of two-week tidal cycle variation over an area spanning 5.6 km on the Hasaki coast between 12 April 2005 and 31 December 2008. The methodology is based on the correlation map between the pixel intensity variation of the time-averaged X-band radar images and the binary signal of the tide level ranging from −0.8 m to 0.8 m. In order to ensure the binary signal represented each of the water levels in the intertidal shore profile, determining the water level direction-wise bottom elevation is considered as the modification. Random gaps were detected in the captured images owing to the unclear or oversaturation of the waterline signal. A horizontal shift in the detected shoreline positions was observed compared to the survey data previously collected at Hasaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS). This horizontal shift can be attributed to wave breaking and high wave conditions. Wave set-up and run-up are the effects of wave breaking and high wave conditions, respectively. The correction of the wave set-up and run-up is considered to allow the upward shift of the water level position, as well as shoreline position, to the landward direction. The findings indicate that the shoreline positions derived by mTWM with the corrected wave run-up reasonably agree with the survey data. The mean absolute bias (MAB) between the survey data and the shoreline positions detected using mTWM with the corrected wave run-up is approximately 5.9 m, which is theoretically smaller than the spatial resolution of the radar measurements. The random gaps in the mTWM-derived shoreline positions are filled by Garcia’s data filling algorithm which is a Penalized Least Squares regression method by means of the Discrete Cosine Transform (PLS-DCT). The MAB between survey data and the gap filled shoreline positions detected using TWM with corrected wave run-up is approximately 5.9 m. The obtained results indicate the accuracy of the mTWM with corrected wave run-up integrated with Garcia’s method compared to the survey observations. The executed approach in this study is considered as an efficient and robust tool to automatically detect shoreline positions and intertidal foreshore slopes extracted from X-band radar images with the consideration of wave run-up correction.

A multi-decade dataset of monthly beach profile surveys and inshore wave forcing at Narrabeen, Australia

Long-term observational datasets that record and quantify variability, changes and trends in beach morphology at sandy coastlines together with the accompanying wave climate are rare. A monthly beach profile survey program commenced in April 1976 at Narrabeen located on Sydney’s Northern Beaches in southeast Australia is one of just a handful of sites worldwide where on-going and uninterrupted beach monitoring now spans multiple decades. With the Narrabeen survey program reaching its 40-year milestone in April 2016, it is timely that free and unrestricted use of these data be facilitated to support the next advances in beach erosion-recovery modelling. The archived dataset detailed here includes the monthly subaerial profiles, available bathymetry for each survey transect extending seawards to 20 m water depth, and time-series of ocean astronomical tide and inshore wave forcing at 10 m water depths, the latter corresponding to the location of individual survey transects. In addition, on-going access to the results of the continuing monthly survey program is described.

Disturbance of shallow marine soft-bottom environments and megabenthos assemblages by a huge tsunami induced by the 2011 M9.0 Tohoku-Oki earthquake

Huge tsunami waves associated with megathrust earthquakes have a severe impact on shallow marine ecosystems. We investigated the impact of a tsunami generated by the 2011 M9.0 Tohoku-Oki earthquake on the seafloor and large benthic animals in muddy and sandy ria coasts (Otsuchi and Funakoshi bays) in northeastern Japan. We conducted underwater field surveys using scuba equipment in water depths of <20 m before the tsunami (September 2010) and after the tsunami (September 2011 and September 2012). During the study period, episodic changes in topography and grain-size composition occurred on the seafloor of the study area. Megabenthos sampling revealed a distinct pattern of distribution succession for each benthic species. For example, the protobranch bivalve Yoldia notabilis (Bivalvia: Nuculanidae) and the heterodont bivalve Felaniella usta (Bivalvia: Ungulinidae) disappeared after the tsunami event, whereas the distribution of the venus clam Gomphina melanaegis (Bivalvia: Veneridae) remained unchanged. In addition, the patterns of succession for a single species, such as the giant button top shell Umbonium costatum (Gastropoda: Trochidae) and the heart urchin Echinocardium cordatum (Echinoidea: Loveniidae), varied between the two bays studied. Our data also show that reestablishment of some benthic animal populations began within 18 months of the tsunami disturbance.