Climate change and coastal morphodynamics: Interactions on regional scales

Climate change and its impacts, combined with unchecked human activities, intensify pressures on coastal environments, resulting in modification of the coastal morphodynamics. Coastal zones are intricate and constantly changing areas, making the monitoring and interpretation of data a challenging task, especially in remote beaches and regions with limited historical data. Traditionally, remote sensing and numerical methods have played a vital role in analysing earth observation data and supporting the monitoring and modelling of complex coastal ecosystems. However, the emergence of artificial intelligence-based techniques has shown promising results, offering the additional advantage of filling data gaps, predicting data in data-scarce regions, and analysing multidimensional datasets collected over extended periods of time and larger spatial scales. The main objective of this study is to provide a comprehensive review of the existing literature, discussing both traditional methods and various emerging artificial intelligence-based approaches used in studying the coastal dynamics, shoreline change analysis, and coastal monitoring. Ultimately, the study proposes a climate resilience framework to enhance coastal zone management practices and policies, fostering resilience among coastal communities. The outcome of this study aligns with and supports particularly SDG 13 of the UN (Climate Action) and advances it by identifying relevant methods in coastal erosion studies and proposing integrated management plans informed by real-time data collection and analysis/modelling using physics-based models.

Shoaling Wave Shape Estimates from Field Observations and Derived Bedload Sediment Rates

The shoaling transformation from generally linear deep-water waves to asymmetric shallow-water waves modifies wave shapes and causes near-bed orbital velocities to become asymmetrical, contributing to net sediment transport. In this work, we used two methods to estimate the asymmetric wave shape from data at three sites. The first method converted wave measurements made at the surface to idealized near-bottom wave-orbital velocities using a set of empirical equations: the “parameterized” waveforms. The second method involved direct measurements of velocities and pressure made near the seabed: the “direct” waveforms. Estimates from the two methods were well correlated at all three sites (Pearson’s correlation coefficient greater than 0.85). Both methods were used to drive bedload-transport calculations that accounted for asymmetric waves, and the results were compared with a traditional excess-stress formulation and field estimates of bedload transport derived from ripple migration rates based on sonar imagery. The cumulative bedload transport from the parameterized waveform was 25% greater than the direct waveform, mainly because the parameterized waveform did not account for negative skewness. Calculated transport rates were comparable to rates estimated from ripple migration except during the largest event, when calculated rates were as much as 100 times greater, which occurred during high period waves.

Wave Dissipation and Sediment Transport Patterns during Shoreface Nourishment towards Equilibrium

Implementing shoreface nourishment is an effective method to protect sandy beaches. A better understanding of the equilibrium mechanism of shoreface nourishments is necessary for coastal engineering designs and constructions. Two experiments on the beach profile equilibrium of the shoreface nourishment are carried out under mild wave conditions on the reflective and intermediate beach. It is observed that the shoreface nourishment increases local wave height and strengthens wave nonlinearity by its shallow water depth. The most intense wave breaking dissipation has been found on the crest of the shoreface nourishment, and the distribution of wave energy dissipation rate is more uniform on the quasi-equilibrium profile than that on the initial profile. A process-based numerical model is used to reproduce bed profile evolution successfully. On that basis, it is found that onshore bedload transport is the primary cause for the onshore migration of the shoreface nourishment. The magnitude of bedload transport decreases during the evolution of the shoreface nourishment towards equilibrium. The most intense sediment transport rate occurs over the shoreface nourishment or in front of the shoreline, depending on the ’lee effect’ of the nourishment. Furthermore, the effects of incident wave height, wave period, and sea-level rise on the equilibrium profile of the shoreface nourishment under mild wave conditions are analyzed.

Influence of Wave Climate on Intra and Inter-Annual Nearshore Bar Dynamics for a Sandy Beach

The study investigates cross-shore outer sand bar dynamics in an open-coast non-tidal beach at the Bulgarian Black Sea due to wave climate. On seasonal to short-term (1–2 years) time scale, monthly field measurements of the outer bar profiles were related to respective modeled nearshore wave data. Hereby, seaward-shoreward bar migration was examined depending on the wave forcing, wave non-linearity, wave transformation scenarios, storms and direction of wave incidence. Analysis revealed that intra-annually highly non-linear waves were responsible for outer bar displacement, while the direction of migration depended on wave period, duration of conditions with wave steepness >0.04, angle of approach and total duration of storms. Short-term bar evolution was mainly governed by wave height and storms’ parameters as the angle of approach and duration. The correlation between the outer bar location and wave height annual variations initiated the first for the explored Black Sea region examination of possible connection between wave height’s temporal fluctuations and the variability of climatic indices the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), the Atlantic Multi-decadal Oscillation (AMO), the East Atlantic Oscillation (EA), the Arctic Oscillation (AO), the East Atlantic-Western Russia (EA/WR) and the Scandinavian (SCAND) patterns. According to the results the inter-annual outer bar location may vary depending on periods of maximum annual wave fluctuations, which in turn predominantly depend on indices the EA (4–5, 10–11, 20–30 years), the EA/WR (2–4, 9–13 years) and the NAO (15 years).

Observations of Cross-Shore Chenier Dynamics in Demak, Indonesia

Cheniers are important for stabilising mud-dominated coastlines. A chenier is a body of wave-reworked, coarse-grained sediment consisting of sand and shells overlying a muddy substrate. In this paper we present and analyse a week of field observations of the dynamics of a single chenier along the coast of Demak, Indonesia. Despite relatively calm hydrodynamics during the one-week observational period, the chenier migrated surprisingly fast in the landward direction. The role of the tide and waves on the cross-shore chenier dynamics is explored using velocity moments as a proxy for the sediment transport. This approach shows that both tide and waves are capable of transporting the sediment of the chenier system. During calm conditions (representative for the south-east monsoon season), the tides generate a landward-directed sediment transport when the chenier crest is high relative to mean sea level. Waves only generate substantial sediment transport (direct, via skewness, and indirect, via stirring) when the chenier is submerged during periods with higher waves. The cross-shore chenier dynamics are very sensitive to the timing of tide and waves: most transport takes place when high water levels coincide with (relatively) high waves.

Long-Term Observations of Beach Variability at Hasaki, Japan

Long-term beach observation data for several decades are essential to validate beach morphodynamic models that are used to predict coastal responses to sea-level rise and wave climate changes. At the Hasaki coast, Japan, the beach profile has been measured for 34 years at a daily to weekly time interval. This beach morphological dataset is one of the longest and most high-frequency measurements of the beach morphological change worldwide. The profile data, with more than 6800 records, reflect short- to long-term beach morphological change, showing coastal dune development, foreshore morphological change and longshore bar movement. We investigated the temporal beach variability from the decadal and monthly variations in elevation. Extremely high waves and tidal anomalies from an extratropical cyclone caused a significant change in the long-term bar behavior and foreshore slope. The berm and bar variability were also affected by seasonal wave and water level variations. The variabilities identified here from the long-term observations contribute to our understanding of various coastal phenomena.

Improved Calculation of Nonlinear Near-Bed Wave Orbital Velocity in Shallow Water: Validation against Laboratory and Field Data

A new parameterization for calculating the nonlinear near-bed wave orbital velocity in the shallow water was presented. The equations proposed by Isobe and Horikawa (1982) were modified in order to achieve more accurate predictions of the peak orbital velocities. Based on field data from Egmond Beach in the Netherlands, the correction coefficient and maximum skewness were determined as functions of the Ursell number. The obtained equations were validated against measurements from Egmond Beach, and with laboratory data from small-scale wave flume experiments at Delft University of Technology and from large-scale wave flume experiments at Delft Hydraulics. Inter-comparisons with other previously developed parameterizations were also carried out. The model simulations by the present study were in good agreement with the measurements and have been improved compared to the previous ones. For Egmond Beach, the root-mean-square errors for the peak onshore (uc) and offshore (ut) orbital velocities were approximately 21%. The relative biases were small, approximately 0.013 for uc and −0.068 for ut. The coefficient of determination was in the range between 0.64 and 0.68. For laboratory experiments, the root-mean-square errors in a range of 7.2%–24% for uc, and 7.9%–15% for ut.

Effects of Wave Orbital Velocity Parameterization on Nearshore Sediment Transport and Decadal Morphodynamics

Nearshore morphological modelling is challenging due to complex feedback betweenhydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphology bridging scales from seconds to years.Such modelling is, however, needed to assess long-term effects of changing climates on coastalenvironments, for example. Due to computational efficiency, the sediment transport driven bycurrents and waves often requires a parameterization of wave orbital velocities. A frequently usedparameterization of skewness-only was found to overfeed the coast unrealistically on a timescale ofyears—decades. To improve this, we implemented a recently developed parameterization accountingfor skewness and asymmetry in a morphodynamic model (Delft3D). The objective was to compare theeffects of parameterizations on long-term coastal morphodynamics. We performed simulations withdefault and calibrated sediment transport settings, for idealized coastlines, and compared the resultswith measured data from analogue natural systems. The skewness-asymmetry parameterization wasfound to predict overall stable coastlines within the measured envelope with wave-related calibrationfactors within a factor of 2. In contrast, the original parameterization required stronger calibration,which further affected the alongshore transport rates, and yet predicted erosion in deeper areas andunrealistic accretion near the shoreline. The skewness-asymmetry parameterization opens up thepossibility of more realistic long-term morphological modelling of complex coastal systems.

Performance Evaluation of Wave Input Reduction Techniques for Modeling Inter-Annual Sandbar Dynamics

In process-based numerical models, reducing the amount of input parameters, known as input reduction (IR), is often required to reduce the computational effort of these models and to enable long-term, ensemble predictions. Currently, a comprehensive performance assessment of IR-methods is lacking, which hampers guidance on selecting suitable methods and settings in practice. In this study, we investigated the performance of 10 IR-methods and 36 subvariants for wave climate reduction to model the inter-annual evolution of nearshore bars. The performance of reduced wave climates is evaluated by means of a brute force simulation based on the full climate. Additionally, we tested how the performance is affected by the number of wave conditions, sequencing, and duration of the reduced wave climate. We found that the Sediment Transport Bins method is the most promising method. Furthermore, we found that the resolution in directional space is more important for the performance than the resolution in wave height. The results show that a reduced wave climate with fewer conditions applied on a smaller timescale performs better in terms of morphology than a climate with more conditions applied on a longer timescale. The findings of this study can be applied as initial guidelines for selecting input reduction methods at other locations, in other models, or for other domains.

Observations and Modelling of Shoreface Nourishment Behaviour

Shoreface nourishments are commonly applied for coastal maintenance, but their behaviour is not well understood. Bathymetric data of 19 shoreface nourishments located at alongshore uniform sections of the Dutch coast were therefore analyzed and used to validate an efficient method for predicting the erosion of shoreface nourishments. Data shows that considerable cross-shore profile change takes place at a shoreface nourishment, while an impact at the adjacent coast is hard to distinguish. The considered shoreface nourishments provide a long-term (3 to ∼30 years) cross-shore supply of sediment to the beach, but with small impact on the local shoreline shape. An efficient modelling approach is presented using a lookup table filled with computed initial erosion–sedimentation rates for a range of potential environmental conditions at a single post-construction bathymetry. Cross-shore transport contributed the majority of the losses from the initial nourishment region. This transport was driven partly by water-level setup driven currents (e.g., rip currents) and increased velocity asymmetry of the waves due to the geometrical change at the shoreface nourishment. Most erosion of the nourishment takes place during energetic wave conditions ( H m 0 ≥ 3 m) as milder waves are propagated over the nourishment without breaking. A data-model comparison shows that this approach can be used to accurately assess the erosion rates of shoreface nourishments in the first years after construction.

Impact of sea-level rise on cross-shore sediment transport on fetch-limited barrier reef island beaches under modal and cyclonic conditions

A one-dimensional wave model is combined with an analytical sediment transport model to investigate the likely influence of sea-level rise on net cross-shore sediment transport on fetch-limited barrier reef and lagoon island beaches. The modelling considers if changes in the nearshore wave height and wave period in the lagoon induced by different water levels over the reef flat are likely to lead to net offshore or onshore movement of sediment. The results indicate that the effects of SLR on net sediment movement are highly variable and controlled by the bathymetry of the reef and lagoon. A significant range of reef-lagoon bathymetry, and notably shallow and narrow reefs, appears to lead hydrodynamic conditions and beaches that are likely to be stable or even accrete under SLR. Loss of reef structural complexity, particularly on the reef flat, increases the chance of sediment transport away from beaches and offshore.