Increase in hydration and protective function of horny layer by glycerol and a W/O emulsion: are these effects maintained during long-term use?

Multi parametric biophysical assessment of treatment effects on xerotic skin

Background

Topical moisturizing products are widely used to alleviate the problems associated with xerotic skin. Their use affects many properties of the stratum corneum (SC) in a complex and interrelated manner. The range of measurement techniques available to the researcher has increased in recent years. However, few studies have looked for correlations between the different techniques for assessing how aspects of xerotic skin change over time as a result of topical moisturizer usage.

Objectives

A 3‐week in vivo study using an oil‐in‐water based moisturizing product and an untreated site was conducted to determine the clinical significance of and any correlations between a range of different approaches for the measurement of skin lipid content and also skin hydration and visual grading of dry skin.

Methods

A range of traditional and more recently developed skin measurement techniques have been used to examine a variety of SC properties in normal and xerotic skin during topical moisturizer usage.

Results

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and analysis of SC lipids from tape strips both showed an increase in SC lipid level and organization after 3 weeks of moisturizer usage on xerotic skin. Hydration, measured both optically and electrically, also increased and skin barrier function improved, with strong correlations between the different measures of dryness being observed.

Conclusions

Strong correlations were observed between the skin measurements for lipid assessment and skin hydration with regard to the assessment of xerotic skin, providing valuable new information for future in vivo clinical research into dry and atopic skin.

Keywords

biophysical assessment, skin barrier, skin hydration, topical moisturizers, Xerosis

Association of glycerol and paraffin in the treatment of ichthyosis in children: an international, multicentric, randomized, controlled, double-blind study

BACKGROUND

Efficacy and tolerance should be considered in topical treatments of chronicle affections with impaired skin barrier function such as ichthyosis.

OBJECTIVES

To demonstrate the efficacy of Dexeryl in reducing severity of ichthyosis.

METHODS

A prospective, multicentre, randomized, placebo controlled study was performed with patients under 18 years suffering from a non-bullous form of ichthyosis. A double-blind period using Dexeryl (an emollient cream containing glycerol 15% and paraffin 10%) or placebo (its vehicle) during 4 weeks followed by an open label period with all patients treated by Dexeryl for 8 weeks. Improvement of ichthyosis was assessed by cutaneous xerosis evolution (SRRC score): the percentage of patients with 50% reduction of the SRRC score at D28 was the primary criterion. The assessment of pruritus [visual analogue scale (VAS)], global evaluation and safety were secondary.

RESULTS

The percentage of patients with at least 50% reduction of SRRC score at D28 was significantly higher in Dexeryl group (60.3%) vs. vehicle group (43.5%; P = 0.008). Reduction of pruritus on VAS was significantly higher at D28 with Dexeryl (-2.16) compared to that in placebo (-1.49), P < 0.05. The improvement continues through the open label period: at D84 we observed -2.5 of SRRC score in the Dexeryl group vs.-1.8 for the group previously treated by vehicle. Investigators found Dexeryl efficacy as satisfying for about 80% of treated patients vs. 50% with vehicle. Concerning safety, most of the adverse events were not related to treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

Dexeryl showed a significant improvement of xerosis and related symptoms in children with ichthyosis and was well tolerated.

Randomized, double-blind study with glycerol and paraffin in uremic xerosis

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES

Uremic xerosis is a bothersome condition that is poorly responsive to moisturizing and emollient therapy.

DESIGN, SETTING, PARTICIPANTS, & MEASUREMENTS

A randomized, double-blind, intraindividual (left versus right comparison), multicentric clinical study was performed on 100 patients with moderate to severe uremic xerosis for 7 days, during which the patients applied twice daily an emulsion combining glycerol and paraffin (test product) on one allocated lower leg, and the emulsion alone (comparator) on the other lower leg. This was followed by an open-labeled use of the test product on all of the xerotic areas for 49 days. The main efficacy parameter was treatment response on each lower leg, as defined by a reduction from baseline of at least two grades in a five-point clinical score on day 7.

RESULTS

Among the 99 patients analyzed, the test product was highly effective with a treatment response in 72 patients (73%), whereas 44 patients (44%) responded to the comparator (P<0.0001, intergroup analysis). This was associated with an objective reduction in the density and thickness of the scales on day 7 (P<0.0001 compared with the comparator) and a substantial improvement of the uremic pruritus (75%) and quality of life of the patients at study end (P<0.001, intragroup analysis). The test product was very well tolerated, with product-related local intolerance (exacerbated pruritus, local burning, or erythema) occurring in only five patients (5%).

CONCLUSIONS

Uremic xerosis can be managed successfully when an appropriate emollient therapy is used.

Measuring the effects of topical moisturizers on changes in stratum corneum thickness, water gradients and hydration in vivo

BACKGROUND

Moisturizers are the most commonly used topically applied product for the treatment of dry skin conditions. They affect many properties and functions of the stratum corneum but some moisturizers have been reported to be detrimental to barrier function. Stratum corneum barrier function is a composite of its total structure and thickness but few studies have taken this into account. As a biosensor, the stratum corneum (SC) will change its structure in response to treatment and a swelling effect has been clearly demonstrated by skin hydration. Recently several moisturizing agents have been shown to have an effect on SC swelling behaviour with conflicting results. However, there is a paucity of data reported for measuring the effects of long-term usage of moisturizers on SC thickness in vivo as, until recently, traditional techniques did not have the resolution to measure the effects of moisturizers on nonpalmoplantar body sites. The development of confocal Raman spectroscopy for use in human subjects provides noninvasive, real-time, in vivo measurement of SC water concentration profiles and we have also used this state of the art equipment to measure the effect of the long-term use of moisturizers on SC thickness for the first time.

OBJECTIVES

To validate the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) to measure SC thickness and then use it to investigate the short- and long-term effects of moisturizers (one of which is known to improve SC barrier function) on SC thickness, water gradients and hydration.

METHODS

Two studies were conducted: (i) to validate the use of CRS for measuring SC thickness through comparison with optical coherence tomography (OCT); and (ii) once validated to use CRS to measure the long-term effects of three commercially available moisturizers (A, B, C) on SC thickness and water gradients, together with total hydration, over a 3-week period (2 weeks of treatment and 1 week regression) and compare the spectroscopy-derived hydration value with instrumentally derived capacitance hydration values.

RESULTS

(i) A strong, positive correlation in SC thickness was obtained between CRS and OCT (OCT-derived thickness = 0.96 x CRS-derived thickness, r(2) = 0.93; P <0.0001). OCT was shown, however, to have a lower resolution than CRS in distinguishing SC thickness on thinner nonpalmoplantar body sites. Using the CRS method, differences in SC thickness were readily apparent on different body sites (cheek 12.8 +/- 0.9 microm, volar forearm 18.0 +/- 3.9 microm, leg 22.0 +/- 6.9 microm). (ii) Examining the effects of moisturizers in a blinded, randomized 3-week study in human volunteers (n = 14) demonstrated that only one commercially available formulation (A) changed SC water gradients, thickness and hydration as measured by CRS. These hydration data did not directly correlate with capacitance hydration values.

CONCLUSIONS

(i) In vivo CRS was validated as a technique to measure SC thickness on both palmoplantar and, particularly, on nonpalmoplantar skin sites. (ii) Moisturizers improve skin moisturization but in this study only formulation A improved SC thickness, water gradients and hydration as measured by CRS. We hypothesize that this was due to compositional differences between the products. We believe that niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin B(3)) is probably contributing significantly to this effect, as it has been proven to increase epidermal lipogenesis and SC barrier function in other studies. These results show that by using CRS, we were able for the first time to determine the effect of moisturizer on multiple SC barrier endpoints including SC thickness, and water content as a function of depth and total SC water content.

Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions

Glycerol is a trihydroxy alcohol that has been included for many years in topical dermatological preparations. In addition, endogenous glycerol plays a role in skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity and epidermal barrier repair. The aquaporin-3 transport channel and lipid metabolism in the pilosebaceous unit have been evidenced as potential pathways for endogenous delivery of glycerol and for its metabolism in the skin. Multiple effects of glycerol on the skin have been reported. The diverse actions of the polyol glycerol on the epidermis include improvement of stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier function and skin mechanical properties, inhibition of the stratum corneum lipid phase transition, protection against irritating stimuli, enhancement of desmosomal degradation, and acceleration of wound-healing processes. Even an antimicrobial effect has been demonstrated. Topical application of glycerol-containing products improves skin properties in diseases characterized by xerosis and impaired epidermal barrier function, such as atopic dermatitis. The increase of epidermal hydration by glycerol is critical in skin conditions aggravated by dry and cold environmental conditions, e.g. winter xerosis. This paper provides a review on effects of glycerol on the skin, the mechanisms of its action, and the potential applications of glycerol in dermatology.

How do dermatological vehicles influence the horny layer?

Emulsifying agents in aqueous solution lead to dehydration of the horny layer of the epidermis and damage to the barrier. This is only partly true if emulsifying agents are constituents of emulsions. Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions cause an improvement in the hydration of the horny layer and barrier function. In the case of an additional effect of wash solutions, a partial or complete abolition of the drying out and barrier-damaging effect of the wash solution results. Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions without glycerol have no effect on the moisture of the horny layer or indeed increase it, but they lead to considerable damage to the barrier and irritation. In wash tests, they do not induce any protective effect. With micro-emulsions this is still more the case and, moreover, they can also lead to exsiccation. As a result of the addition of glycerol, the barrier-damaging effect can be abolished. Also in stress tests with wash solutions, the damage to the horny layer is reduced by glycerol-containing O/W emulsions. Whereas the penetration-promoting effect of O/W emulsions without glycerol is best, only W/O emulsions or glycerol-containing O/W emulsions are suitable for atopic dermatitis. A hydrating effect on the stratum corneum was also found in a propylene glycol ointment.

[Effects of emulsions on the stratum corneum barrier and hydration]

The appearance of the skin depends greatly on the hydration of the stratum corneum which is regulated by water binding substances of the corneocytes and also by the quality of the stratum corneum lipids. Furthermore these lipids are responsible for the barrier function. In patients with atopic dermatitis, the water binding capacity and the barrier function of the stratum corneum are reduced even in clinically healthy skin areas. Emollients can damage the stratum corneum and lead to desiccation and a disturbance of the barrier. This effect is a result of an increased permeability of the barrier lipids and direct damage to the keratinocytes and corneocytes. The degree of damage of the barrier caused by emollients in dermatological vehicles has not been sufficiently investigated. As suggested by hypothetical considerations, such an effect is not expected and cannot be demonstrated in water-in-oil-emulsions. Oil-in-water-emulsions without glycerol as well as lipophilic and hydrophilic microemulsions do damage the barrier function. Both types of microemulsions additionally lead to a dehydration of the stratum corneum. The damaging effect of oil-in-water-emulsions can be reduced by the addition of glycerol and urea.