Explore highly relevant questions in the Baumann skin type questionnaire through the digital skin analyzer: A retrospective single-center study in South Korea

BACKGROUND

Baumann skin type questionnaire (BSTQ) has been widely used for evaluating skin types in dermatology. However, it requires excessive assessment time and lacks sufficient clinical validation for the Asian population.

AIMS

We aimed to establish optimized BSTQ based on dermatological assessment of the Asian population.

METHODS

This was a single-center retrospective study, where the patient completed a modified BSTQ and a digital photography examination. The answers to four question groups for evaluating skin properties, including oily versus dry (O-D), sensitive versus resistant (S-R), pigmented versus non-pigmented (P-N), and wrinkled versus tight (W-T) were compared with the measurements. Highly relevant questions are selected using two different strategies and used to determine the threshold level, which was compared with skin-type measurement.

RESULTS

In O-D, S-R, P-N, and W-T, 3-5 out of 6, 2-6 out of 9, 3-6 out of 7, and 4-9 out of 11 questions were selected, respectively. As a result, skin type scores from two strategies and measurements showed similar Pearson correlation coefficient values compared to modified BSTQ (for O-D and sebum, 0.236/0.266 vs. 0.232; for O-D and porphyrin, 0.230/0.267 vs. 0.230; for S-R and redness, 0.157/0.175 vs. 0.095; for S-R and porphyrin, 0.061 vs. 0.051; for P-N and melanin pigmentation, 0.156/0.208 vs. 0.150; for W-T and wrinkle, 0.265/0.269 vs. 0.217).

CONCLUSION

Two strategies for optimizing BSTQ are proposed and validated for Asian patients. Compared to the BSTQ, our methods show comparable performance with a significantly reduced number of questions.

Effectiveness of Three Types of Moisturizers on Senile Dry Skin: A Randomized Controlled Pilot Trial

Background

For dry skin, the application of a hypoallergenic moisturizer twice daily is recommended in elderly individuals. However, it is not known which is the most effective and appropriate moisturizer among the commercially available moisturizers.

Aims

In this study, we aimed to investigate the efficacy of the three widely used moisturizers for the treatment of senile dry skin. Patients/Methods. This interventional study involved elderly individuals aged >65 years who were living in a nursing home. The participants were randomly divided into the interventional (moisturizers A, B, and C) and conventional care groups. Moisturizers A, B, and C were applied on the skin of each member of the three intervention groups twice daily for 8 weeks. The water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated before and after the intervention. Changes in these parameters among the groups were compared using two-way analysis of variance and a posthoc test.

Results

Moisturizers A, B, and C and conventional care groups comprised six, seven, five, and four participants, respectively. The water content of the stratum corneum was significantly higher in the moisturizer A (p = 0.01) and B (p = 0.047) groups than in the conventional care group. There was no significant difference in TEWL among the groups.

Conclusions

In terms of the appearance of the skin, white powder and small scales were both reduced in group A. Taken together with the water content, this was considered a clinically significant change.

Electrical Bioimpedance Analysis for Evaluating the Effect of Pelotherapy on the Human Skin: Methodology and Experiments

BACKGROUND

Pelotherapy is the traditional procedure of applying curative muds on the skin's surface-shown to have a positive effect on the human body and cure illnesses. The effect of pelotherapy is complex, functioning through several mechanisms, and depends on the skin's functional condition. The current research objective was to develop a methodology and electrodes to assess the passage of the chemical and biologically active compounds of curative mud through human skin by performing electrical bioimpedance (EBI) analysis.

METHODS

The methodology included local area mud pack and simultaneous tap water compress application on the forearms with the comparison to the measurements of the dry skin. A custom-designed small-area gold-plated electrode on a rigid printed circuit board, in a tetrapolar configuration, was designed. A pilot study experiment with ten volunteers was performed.

RESULTS

Our results indicated the presence of an effect of pelotherapy, manifested by the varying electrical properties of the skin. Distinguishable difference in the measured real part of impedance (R) emerged, showing a very strong correlation between the dry and tap-water-treated skin (r = 0.941), while a poor correlation between the dry and mud-pack-treated skin (r = 0.166) appeared. The findings emerged exclusively in the frequency interval of 10 kHz …1 MHz and only for R.

CONCLUSIONS

EBI provides a promising tool for monitoring the variations in the electrical properties of the skin, including the skin barrier. We foresee developing smart devices for promoting the exploitation of spa therapies.

Human glabrous skin contains crystallized urea dendriform structures in the stratum corneum which affect the hydration levels

Glabrous skin is hair-free skin with a high density of sweat glands, which is found on the palms, and soles of mammalians, covered with a thick stratum corneum. Dry hands are often an occupational problem which deserves attention from dermatologists. Urea is found in the skin as a component of the natural moisturizing factor and of sweat. We report the discovery of dendrimer structures of crystalized urea in the stratum corneum of palmar glabrous skin using laser scanning microscopy. The chemical and structural nature of the urea crystallites was investigated in vivo by non-invasive techniques. The relation of crystallization to skin hydration was explored. We analysed the index finger, small finger and tenar palmar area of 18 study participants using non-invasive optical methods, such as laser scanning microscopy, Raman microspectroscopy and two-photon tomography. Skin hydration was measured using corneometry. Crystalline urea structures were found in the stratum corneum of about two-thirds of the participants. Participants with a higher density of crystallized urea structures exhibited a lower skin hydration. The chemical nature and the crystalline structure of the urea were confirmed by Raman microspectroscopy and by second harmonic generated signals in two-photon tomography. The presence of urea dendrimer crystals in the glabrous skin seems to reduce the water binding capacity leading to dry hands. These findings highlight a new direction in understanding the mechanisms leading to dry hands and open opportunities for the development of better moisturizers and hand disinfection products and for diagnostic of dry skin.

Facial Skin Microbiome: Aging-Related Changes and Exploratory Functional Associations with Host Genetic Factors, a Pilot Study

In this exploratory study, we investigate the variation in the facial skin microbiome architecture through aging and their functional association with host genetic factors in a cohort of healthy women, living in the same area and without cutaneous diseases. Notably, facial skin microbiota (SM) samples were collected from a cohort of 15 healthy Caucasian females, firstly divided into three age groups (younger women aged 20–35 years old; middle aged women of 36–52 years old; and older women aged 53–68 years old). Then, the recruited cohort was divided into two groups based on their facial hydration level (dry and normal skin). The facial SM revealed a different composition in the three analyzed aging groups and between normal and dry skins. The middle-aged women also revealed functional variations associated with collagen biosynthesis and oxidative stress damage repair. Otherwise, the association between selected host SNPs (single nucleotide polymorphisms) and the facial SM profile showed significant associations, suggesting a negative correlation with collagen metabolism and ROS damage protection. Finally, the composition and functionality of the facial SM seemed to affect the aging process through the two aging-correlated pathways of host ROS damage repair and collagen metabolism. Our exploratory data could be useful for future studies characterizing the structure, function, and dynamics of the SM in the aging process to design personalized therapeutic agents focusing on potential genomic targets, microbes, and their metabolites.

Efficacy and Tolerability of Cosmetic Serums Enriched with Five Forms of Hyaluronic Acid as Part of Biweekly Diamond Tip Microdermabrasion Treatments for Facial Skin Dryness and Age-Associated Features

Purpose

There is growing interest in combining topical treatments with aesthetic procedures to combat signs of aging skin. This study aimed to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a novel cosmetic serum containing 5 different forms of HA (HA⁵ DG) when used via a proprietary diamond-tip microdermabrasion procedure (DG) to treat skin dryness, fine lines/wrinkles, rough texture, and dullness.

Patients and Methods

In this open-label, single-center study, participants received HA⁵ DG as part of a biweekly DG procedure on the face and neck for 12 weeks. Study participants also applied another take-home HA⁵ serum to the face twice daily at home, along with a basic skincare regimen. The efficacy of the combined treatment was measured by clinical quantification of multiple skin appearance features, analysis of bioinstrumental measurements, and digital photography.

Results

This study enrolled 27 participants, with an average age of 42.7 years and Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I-III (59.3%), IV (18.5%), and V-VI (22.2%), and 23 participants completed the study. The combined treatment had effects in fine lines/wrinkles, skin dryness, smoothness, radiance, firmness, and hydration 15 minutes post-DG. Furthermore, the significant improvements observed in dryness, fine lines/wrinkles, skin smoothness, and radiance were still visible 3 days after and maintained at week 12. Additionally, smoothing of coarse lines/wrinkles, improvement of skin tone evenness, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, and transepidermal water loss were observed at week 12. The treatment had a favorable tolerability profile and was perceived as efficacious and highly satisfactory.

Conclusion

This novel combined treatment delivered immediate and prolonged skin hydration and high participant satisfaction, proving it can be an excellent approach for skin rejuvenation.

A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches.

METHODS

We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results.

RESULTS

The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered.

Skin hydration level cutoff value to predict wound healing potential in diabetic foot ulcers

AIMS

Transcutaneous oxygen pressure (TcPO₂) is a reliable predictor of wound healing in diabetes patients; however, measurements are cumbersome. Previously, we demonstrated that skin hydration in the feet of patients with diabetic foot ulcers (DFU) is influenced by microcirculation rather than peripheral nerve function. Furthermore, skin hydration level before recanalization can predict wound healing better than TcPO₂. This study investigated the skin hydration level cutoff value to predict DFU healing.

METHODS

We retrospectively enrolled 834 patients with DFU. Wound healing outcomes were graded as healed without amputation or with minor/major amputation. Receiver operating characteristic analysis was used to evaluate the ability of skin hydration to predict wound healing outcomes and determine the optimal cutoff value for subsequent analyses.

RESULTS

Average skin hydration values in the healed without and with amputation groups were 25.0 ± 7.4 arbitrary units (a.u.) and 17.5 ± 5.7 a.u., respectively (P < 0.001). The healing rate without amputation increased with skin hydration. A skin hydration value ≥ 21 a.u. significantly lowered the incidence of amputation. The cutoff value was 21 a.u. [(Youden's index, sensitivity, specificity, P-value) = (1.6, 92, 69.6, P < 0.001)].

CONCLUSIONS

A minimal skin hydration value of 21 a.u. is required for diabetic wound healing.

Stratum corneum hydration in healthy adult humans according to the skin area, age and sex: a systematic review and meta-analysis

Stratum corneum (SC) hydration is one of the most important skin biophysical parameters, which is affected by age, sex and anatomic site. We conducted a systematic review and meta-analysis to provide detailed information on baseline values of SC hydration in healthy human adults, according to the skin area, age and sex. The databases Medline, Embase, Web of Science and Scopus were searched for primary reports, with in vivo corneometry measurements, which were conducted on disease-free skin of human subjects, aged 18+ years in English. Risk of bias was evaluated using the critical appraisal tools for JBI Systematic Reviews, and only low-risk studies were selected. The comparison was performed in each skin area between males and females and also between young- and middle-age subjects. Among 323 Retrieved titles, full texts of 259 articles were read, and 240 studies were excluded due to unclear or insufficient reporting of SC hydration, as well as high or medium risk of bias. 19 studies (including 113 records) providing data about SC hydration in 12 skin areas were included in the final data synthesis. Pooled sample sizes ranged from n = 32 for lips to a maximum of n = 3202 for cheeks. The lowest hydration of 12.5 [95% CI 11.05-13.94] was reported for the back, and the highest hydration of 64.34) [95 CI% 62.07-64.59] for the periorbital area. Facial skin showed higher water content compared with other areas. There were also site-dependent differences in the hydration level of the facial skin. Comparisons between two age groups, and male and female participants, did not show any statistically significant differences. The main limitation was we included studies using only one measurement device. The quality of reporting SC hydration in humans should be increased in future studies.

Development, characterization, and clinical investigation of Spinacia oleracea based ultra-high pressure homogenized emulsion system for facial physiological parameters

BACKGROUND

Spinacia oleracea (SO) exhibits radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibition activity indicating potential as a depigmenting agent.

AIMS

To develop and characterize a stable emulsified system containing SO extract through ultra-high pressure homogenization, evaluate skin permeability, and enumerate in-vivo performance in terms of melanin index, skin spots analysis, and related skin physiological parameters.

METHOD

Free radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibition potential of SO extract was quantified through DPPH radical scavenging and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay respectively. 6 SO extract loaded ultra-high pressure emulsified systems (UHSO) were developed using ultra-high pressure homogenizer and assessed for size and polydispersity index (PDI). Among the prepared formulations the optimized formulation (UHSO6) was subjected to 90 days stability studies performed at 8 ºC, 25 ºC, 40 ºC, and 40 ºC+75% RH (relative humidity) for organoleptic features, pH, and rheology. Ex-vivo skin permeability studies were performed on abdominal skin from male albino rat. Changes in skin physiological parameters were evaluated in healthy female volunteers (n=13) for 12 weeks utilizing mexameter®, corneometer® and sebumeter®. Skin spots were analyzed through computerized analysis of high-resolution images by visioFace®.

RESULTS

SO extract exhibited promising antioxidant (88±0.0096%) and tyrosinase inhibition potential (90.6±0.0015 mg of Kojic Acid Eq/g of extract). Optimized UHSO was found to be stable with respect to stability evaluation, globule size (1110 nm), zeta potential (-27.6), and PDI (0.34). Ex-vivo skin permeation of UHSO was significantly higher than SO loaded coarse emulsion. Moreover, the formulation showed a significant decrease in skin melanin, spot count, and spot % area, whereas skin hydration index was improved significantly.

CONCLUSION

Stable SO extract loaded emulsion system was successfully developed by a novel, cost-effective technique of ultra-high pressure homogenization which showed improved performance in terms of skin permeation and other skin physiological parameters.

Performance and Acceptability of a New Dexpanthenol-Containing Hand Cream in Subjects with Sensitive and Very Dry Skin: A Randomized Controlled Study

A new dexpanthenol-containing hand cream (ND-HC) was developed for people with dry, sensitive, and/or environmentally stressed hands. To explore the performance and acceptability of ND-HC, we conducted a randomized, intraindividual comparison study in 40 healthy adult subjects with sensitive and very dry skin on the hands. Instrumental measurements determined the effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after single and/or 4 weeks’ use of ND-HC. Single and continued at least four times daily applications of ND-HC to very dry skin of the hand for 4 weeks triggered significant increases in SC hydration. On day 29, the mean change in skin capacitance from baseline was significantly greater when ND-HC was applied to the test area compared with the untreated area on the contralateral hand (12.41 vs. 4.46 a.u.; p < 0.001). Upon use of ND-HC over 4 weeks, mean TEWL decreased significantly (bilateral difference: −1.8 vs. 1.0 g/m2/h; p = 0.003), indicating an improvement in SC barrier function. A reduction in dry hand symptoms was observed over the study course. ND-HC was well tolerated and achieved a high level of acceptance and satisfaction. Our findings suggest that ND-HC complies with the required features of a state-of-the-art hand cream.

Occupational exposure assessment with solid substances: choosing a vehicle for in vitro percutaneous absorption experiments

Percutaneous occupational exposure to industrial toxicants can be assessed in vitro on excised human or animal skins. Numerous factors can significantly influence skin permeation of chemicals and the flux determination. Among them, the vehicle used to solubilize the solid substances is a tricky key step. A "realistic surrogate" that closely matches the exposure scenario is recommended in first intention. When direct transposition of occupational exposure conditions to in vitro experiments is impossible, it is recommended that the vehicle used does not affect the skin barrier (in particular in terms of structural integrity, composition, or enzymatic activity). Indeed, any such effect could alter the percutaneous absorption of substances in a number of ways, as we will see. Potential effects are described for five monophasic vehicles, including the three most frequently used: water, ethanol, acetone; and two that are more rarely used, but are realistic: artificial sebum and artificial sweat. Finally, we discuss a number of criteria to be verified and the associated tests that should be performed when choosing the most appropriate vehicle, keeping in mind that, in the context of occupational exposure, the scientific quality of the percutaneous absorption data provided, and how they are interpreted, may have long-range consequences. From the narrative review presented, we also identify and discuss important factors to consider in future updates of the OECD guidelines for in vitro skin absorption experiments.

Facial Skin Revitalization with Cohesive Polydensified Matrix-HA20G: Results from a Randomized Multicenter Clinical Study

Background:

There is a growing interest in the application of hyaluronic acid (HA) derivatives in skin quality improvement. The aim of this study was to confirm safety and effectiveness of cohesive polydensified matrix-hyaluronic acid + glycerol (CPM-HA20G; Belotero Revive) in revitalization of early-onset photodamaged facial skin.

Methods:

A total of 159 subjects with early signs of facial photodamaged skin were randomized in a 2:1 ratio to multiple- or single-dose treatment with CPMHA20G. Effectiveness assessments included biophysical measurements of skin hydration; elasticity, firmness, and roughness; investigator- and subject-assessed Global Aesthetic Improvement Scales; and FACE-Q Skin Changes and Treatment Satisfaction questionnaires.

Results:

In both treatment groups, skin hydration improved from baseline to all follow-up visits in subjects with dry or very dry skin. This improvement was significant at week 16 after initial treatment in the multiple-dose group (P = 0.0013). Investigator- and subject-reported outcomes showed that the majority of subjects across all skin hydration types benefited from treatment, with higher satisfaction rates observed in the multiple-dose group. According to investigator-assessed Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale, 90.7% of subjects at week 12 in the multiple-dose and 74.6% of subjects at week 4 in the single-dose group were rated as at least “improved.” All related treatment-emergent adverse events were transient, expected injection-site reactions of mild to moderate intensity.

Conclusions:

Effectiveness of CPM-HA20G for skin hydration in subjects with dry or very dry skin was demonstrated up to 9 months after last injection. Overall, CPM-HA20G demonstrated effective and safe use in facial skin revitalization among subjects with early-onset photodamaged skin.

Biophysical and Subject-Based Assessment of the Effects of Topical Moisturizer Usage on Xerotic Skin—Part I: EpsilonTM 2D Skin Hydration

As new biophysical methods become available to the skin researcher, it is important to understand the type of information that they are capable of measuring, and how it relates to consumer perception of topical moisturizing products. This work was aimed at understanding how two-dimensional (2D) skin hydration mapping can be used to describe skin properties beyond the traditional ‘single number’ approach to skin hydration. Two-dimensional skin hydration measurement data were collected at baseline and after 1 week of in vivo usage of a topical moisturizing product. In addition, subject feedback regarding their skin condition obtained during the study was collected and assessed. Dividing the 2D hydration measurement device images into zones of different electrical permittivity scores enabled analysis of different aspects of the skin compared with traditional electrical skin hydration measurements. Improvement in skin flexibility as a result of use of the topical test product was demonstrated. Complete description of the skin’s hydration state through the creation of hydration histograms to describe its electrical characteristics was performed. Subject feedback data showed improvements in aspects of skin assessed using 2D hydration measurement.

Characterization of Classical Flexural and Nummular Forms of Atopic Dermatitis in Childhood with Regard to Anamnestic, Clinical and Epidermal Barrier Aspects

Nummular (coin-shaped) and classical (flexural) atopic dermatitis differ morphologically, but no other distinguishing features are known. The aim of this study was to determine differences and similarities of both variants in children. Detailed interviews, clinical examinations, biophysical measurements and electron microscopic analyses were performed on 10 children with nummular atopic dermatitis, 14 with classical atopic dermatitis and 10 healthy controls. Nummular atopic dermatitis affected more boys than girls and manifested less frequently within the first year of life than classical atopic dermatitis. Localization, distribution and morphology of the eczema varied more over time, and expression of keratosis pilaris was more severe in children with nummular atopic dermatitis. Both disease groups showed reduced hydration, increased transepidermal water loss and reduced intercellular lipid lamellae in lesional skin areas compared with non-lesional areas. These findings underline the separate classification of both variants. Further research is necessary to investigate the potential of diverging therapeutic approaches.

Enhancement of stratum corneum lipid structure improves skin barrier function and protects against irritation in adults with dry, eczema-prone, skin

BACKGROUND

The skin of atopic dermatitis (AD) patients is characterised by abnormal stratum corneum (SC) lipid levels. Consequently, the lamellar matrices are disrupted and skin barrier function is diminished, increasing skin sensitivity to irritants and allergens.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether a cream containing ceramides, triglycerides and cholesterol in a multi-vesicular emulsion can reinforce the skin barrier, and protect against skin irritation.

METHODS

A randomized observer-blind intrasubject-controlled study in 34 adults with dry, eczema-prone, skin was conducted. Each participant underwent 4 weeks treatment with the test cream on one forearm and lower leg and a reference emollient cream on the other. Skin properties were determined before and after treatment. Lipid structure was assessed by FTIR spectroscopy using a novel interface.

RESULTS

Skin barrier integrity was greater at sites treated with the Test cream (effect size -161.9 area-under-the-TEWL-curve, 95% CI -205.5, -118.3), and skin sensitivity to sodium lauryl sulfate reduced (-0.5 points [97.57% CI -1.00, -0.25] visual redness and -15.34 g/m² /h [95% CI -20.28, -10.40] TEWL) compared to the reference. Sites treated with the test cream displayed enhanced lipid chain ordering, which was significantly associated with skin barrier integrity (r0.606). Compared to the reference, treatment with the Test cream increased hydration (8.61 capacitance units, 95% CI 6.61 to 10.60) and decreased signs of dryness.

CONCLUSION

The Test cream facilitates skin barrier restoration and protects the skin from dryness and irritation. Compared to a commonly prescribed emollient in the UK, the Test cream is highly suited to the management of dry, sensitive, skin.

An objective skin-type classification based on non-invasive biophysical parameters

BACKGROUND

Despite the invention of various non-invasive bioengineering tools, skin-type analysis has largely been based on subjective assessments. However, advancements in the functional cosmetic industry and artificial intelligence-assisted dermatology are creating a greater demand for an objective skin-type classification system.

OBJECTIVES

To propose an objective skin-type classification system solely based on non-invasive, bioengineering devices; provide reference values applicable to the Korean population; and compare our reference values with those of published studies.

METHODS

Biophysical parameter measurements were obtained from the 2018 International Skin Characteristics Data Bank Project conducted by the Foundation of Korea Cosmetic Industry Institute. The participants were 434 healthy South Korean adults. Each participant was assessed using eight bioengineering devices (Tewameter^® , pH-meter^® , Corneometer^® , Sebumeter^® , Cutometer^® , Spectrophotometer^® , PRIMOS^® lite, and Janus^® ). The measurements were divided into tertiles to determine reference points.

RESULTS

Our objective skin-type classification consists of five main categories (sensitivity, hydration, oiliness, elasticity, and skin tone) and five corresponding subcategories (erythema, roughness, pores, wrinkles, and pigmentation, respectively). Each skin type was assigned based on the reference point of the biophysical parameter, which was established as the tertile value associated with 'unfavourable' skin characteristics. Individuals were categorized as having sensitive skin when the TEWL scores were over 18.0 g/m² /h or the pH was over 5.45; dehydrated skin when the corneometric value measured below 47.17 A.U.; oily skin when the sebumetric value exceeded 70 μg/cm² ; and loose skin when the cutometric R² value was below 0.68 E/mm.

CONCLUSIONS

This study is the first to provide a comprehensive skin-type classification system based solely on non-invasive biophysical parameters. As measurement data accumulate, the reference points will progress to become more accurate, and they will be subdivided according to gender, age, and ethnic group. Therefore, our classification system serves as a basis for artificial intelligence-based skin-type analysis.

A Biomimetic Combination of Actives Enhances Skin Hydration and Barrier Function via Modulation of Gene Expression: Results of Two Double-Blind, Vehicle-Controlled Clinical Studies

INTRODUCTION

Xerosis cutis is characterized by a decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration and an impaired skin barrier function. Urea, the most prevalent natural moisturizing factor (NMF), is currently considered the gold standard. Its efficacy can further be increased by combining urea with other NMF and skin barrier lipids (SBLs).

OBJECTIVE

We set out to evaluate physiological effects of a novel functional moisturizer containing 10% urea, additional NMF components, and a combination of SBLs on skin hydration and skin barrier integrity on a cellular and phenotypic level in female volunteers suffering from xerosis.

METHODS

Two double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical studies were conducted. In the first study, 44 female subjects having very dry body skin applied the moisturizer or its vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms. Twenty-four hours after a single product application as well as 24 h after 2 weeks of treatment, SC hydration was measured by corneometry. Skin barrier function was assessed by transepidermal water loss 24 h and 48 h after 2 weeks of regular use. Twenty-four hours after 2 weeks of application, skin tape stripping was performed, and urea content was determined in the 3rd strip by means of high-performance liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry. In the second study, 22 women with self-reported very dry skin applied the moisturizer or vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms for 2 weeks. Then, suction blister samples were obtained for gene expression analysis using RT-PCR.

RESULTS

Application of the actives led to significantly improved skin hydration and barrier function at all points in time. Compared to the vehicle, application of the moisturizer for 2 weeks resulted in a significant increase in SC urea content. Relative gene expression data revealed significant upregulation of genes associated with skin barrier function, hydration, differentiation, and lipid metabolism compared to the vehicle-treated area.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, our data demonstrate that the functional moisturizer provides an adequate bioavailability of urea and a beneficial biophysical impact on xerotic skin. Topical treatment with a combination of urea and additional NMF as well as SBL can modify mRNA expression of important epidermal genes stimulating cellular processes and functions. The well-tolerated novel functional moisturizer stimulates molecular mechanisms involved in skin hydration and barrier function and is a profoundly effective treatment option for xerosis cutis.

Three New Dexpanthenol-Containing Face Creams: Performance and Acceptability after Single and Repeated Applications in Subjects of Different Ethnicity with Dry and Sensitive Skin

Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) were conducted with healthy adults of three ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) with dry/sensitive skin. Effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC lipid content, and skin elasticity were quantified by established noninvasive methods during the 4-week studies. After single and repeated once-daily applications of the face creams, facial hydration significantly increased from baseline. On day 28, the mean increments in skin hydration amounted to 27%, 26%, and 27% (p < 0.0001 each) for DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC, respectively. Favorable effects of DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC on facial moisturization were observed in all three ethnic groups. The enhancements in SC hydration were not paralleled by improvements in skin elasticity parameters but lipid analyses showed significant increases in SC cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramide levels. All three face creams were well tolerated and achieved a high product satisfaction and acceptability by study participants. Our findings support the once-daily use of the face creams in adults of different ethnicities with dry and sensitive skin.

Reliability and validity of the Japanese version of the overall dry skin score in older patients

BACKGROUND

Dry skin is the most common skin problem, especially in the elderly. However, there is no effective instrument to assess dry skin in Japan. This study aimed to evaluate the reliability and validity of the Japanese version of the overall dry skin score (ODS-J), the gold standard for dry skin assessment.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A cross-sectional study was conducted on 47 patients aged > 65 years. Images of skin on their limbs were captured using a digital camera; both upper and lower limbs were assessed (n = 4/patient). One dermatologist; two wound, ostomy, and continence nurses; and three nursing researchers independently evaluated the images using the ODS-J to assess the intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) for inter-rater reliability. Stratum corneum hydration (SCH) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were the external criteria used to verify concurrent and known-groups validity.

RESULTS

In total, 182 sites at which the SCH and TEWL could be measured were evaluated for the ODS-J. The ICC for inter-rater reliability of the six raters was 0.939 (p < 0.001). A higher ODS-J was associated with lower SCH (ρ = -0.374; p < 0.001) and lower TEWL (ρ = -0.287; p < 0.001) values. The ODS-J for the lower legs was significantly higher than that of the forearms (p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

The ODS-J showed good inter-rater reliability, concurrent validity, and known-groups validity. It can be used by clinical nurses in Japan to observe patients' skin and is an effective indicator for the evaluation of skin care.

The effect of a basic skin care product on the structural strength of the dermo-epidermal junction: An exploratory, randomised, controlled split-body trial

Skin ageing is associated with various structural alterations including a decreased strength of the dermo‐epidermal adhesion increasing the risk for shear type injuries (skin tears). Topical applications of basic skin care products seem to reduce skin tear incidence. The suction blister method leads to the artificial and controlled separation of dermis and epidermis. Therefore, time to blister formation may be used as outcome measuring the strength of dermo‐epidermal adhesion. We conducted an exploratory, randomised, controlled trial with a split‐body design on forearms in healthy female subjects (n = 12; mean age 70.3 [SD 2.1] years). Forearms assigned to the intervention were treated twice daily with petrolatum for 8 weeks. Suction blisters were induced on forearms after 4 and 8 weeks and time to blister formation was measured. Stratum corneum and epidermal hydration were measured and epidermal thickness was assessed via optical coherence tomography. Time to blistering was longer and stratum corneum as well as epidermal hydration was consistently higher in intervention skin areas. We conclude that topical application of basic skin care products may improve mechanical adhesion of the dermo‐epidermal junction and that the parameter “time to blistering” is a suitable outcome to measure dermo‐epidermal adhesion strength in clinical research.

Two New Dexpanthenol-Containing Wash Gels: Skin Hydration, Barrier Function and Cosmetic Performance upon Single and Repeated Usage in Subjects with Dry Skin

Two novel body/face wash gels enriched with emollient ingredients (including dexpanthenol) were developed for the daily care of dry skin. Two similarly designed 2-week studies (N = 42 each) were conducted to assess the biophysical and cosmetic performance of each of the new wash gels in healthy adults with dry skin. Instrumental measurements quantified the effects of the wash gels on stratum corneum (SC) hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (with and without a previous sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) challenge) after single and repeated usage. Following single and repeated applications of the face wash gel to facial skin, as well as to dry SLS-undamaged and SLS-damaged skin of the forearm, skin hydration significantly increased. Similarly, after single and repeated usage of the body wash gel to dry SLS-undamaged and SLS-damaged skin of the forearm, skin moisturization increased significantly from baseline; comparisons with control areas provided inconsistent results for SLS-undamaged skin. No effects on TEWL were observed for either product. Both wash gels were well tolerated and the cosmetic performances were appreciated by the subjects. The study results suggest that daily use of the new wash gels was associated with significant skin-moisturizing effects without adversely affecting skin barrier function and repair.

Performance and Tolerability of a New Topical Dexpanthenol-Containing Emollient Line in Subjects with Dry Skin: Results from Three Randomized Studies

Three studies were conducted with three new dexpanthenol-containing emollients containing increasing lipid contents (Emollients 1–3) to assess their performances in healthy adults with dry skin. All three studies (N = 42 each) followed virtually the same design. A single skin application of the study product was performed followed by once-daily usage. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin biomechanical properties, and lipid content of the stratum corneum (SC) were regularly assessed over the 28-day study period; a subset (N = 22) underwent a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) challenge prior to product application. All three emollients were well tolerated and showed good performances with only minor differences in instrumental measurements. After single and prolonged once-daily applications of Emollients 1–3 to dry skin and dry SLS-damaged skin, skin hydration significantly increased from baseline (BL) (by 38.1–72.4% in unchallenged skin, p < 0.001 for all three). This was paralleled by significant increases in skin elasticity parameters. Usage of Emollients 1 and 3 caused increases from BL in SC cholesterol (by 9.8–12.5%, p < 0.05 for both) and SC free fatty acid levels (by 3.7–26.3%, p < 0.05 for both) at the end of the study. No sustained effects on TEWL were recorded. Our findings support the once-daily use of all three emollients in adults with dry skin.

Design of Sodium Alginate/Gelatin-Based Emulsion Film Fused with Polylactide Microparticles Charged with Plant Extract

This study aimed at designing emulsion films based on sodium alginate, gelatin, and glycerol, and their modification by the addition of lipids (cottonseed oil and beeswax). Film composition with the most promising properties was further modified by the incorporation of polylactide (PLA) microparticles with Calendula officinalis flower extract. PLA microspheres were obtained by the emulsion/solvent evaporation method. The size distribution of oily particles in emulsions was investigated. Mechanical properties, moisture content, UV-Vis spectra, and the color of films were analyzed, while biophysical skin parameters were assessed after their application to the skin. Moreover, the contact angles were measured, and the surface free energy of polymeric films was determined. An investigation of the amount of Calendula officinalis flower extract which can be incorporated into PLA microparticles was performed. The modification of the composition of films significantly influenced their physicochemical properties. The selected active ingredient in the form of plant extract was successfully incorporated into polymeric microparticles that were further added into the developed emulsion film. The condition of the skin after the application of obtained emulsion films improved. The prepared materials, especially containing microparticles with plant extract, can be considered for designing new cosmetic forms, such as cosmetic masks, as well as new topical formulations for pharmaceutical delivery.

Moisturizing effect of skin patches with hydrophobic and hydrophilic electrospun fibers for atopic dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (eczema), one of the most common disease and also most difficult to treat, is seeking for novel development not only in medicine but also in bioengineering. Moisturization is the key in eczema treatment as dry skin triggers inflammation that damages the skin barrier. Thus, here we combine electrospun hydrophobic polystyrene (PS) and hydrophilic nylon 6 (PA6) with oils to create patches helping to moisturize atopic skin. The fibrous membranes manufactured using electrospinning: PS, PA6, composite PS - PA6 and sandwich system combining them were characterized by water vapor transmission rates (WVTR) and fluid uptake ability (FUA). To create the most effective moisturizing patches we use borage, black cumin seed and evening primrose oil and tested their spreading. We show a great potential of our designed patches, the oil release tests on a skin and their moisturizing effect were verified. Our results distinctly reveal that both fiber sizes and hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity of polymer influence oil spreading, release from membranes and WVTR measurements. Importantly, the direct skin test indicates the evident increase of hydration for both dry and normal skin after using the patches. The electrospun patches based on the hydrophobic and hydrophilic polymers have outstanding properties to be used as oil carriers for atopic dermatitis treatment.

Impact of Breast Reconstruction on Biophysical Parameters of Mammary Skin in Patients Receiving Postmastectomy Radiotherapy for Breast Cancer

PURPOSE

In this study, we examined the impact of reconstruction using tissue expander insertion (TEI) on the risk of radiation dermatitis in patients undergoing postmastectomy radiotherapy (PMRT).

METHODS

Between August 2015 and March 2019, patients with breast cancer who had received systemic chemotherapy and PMRT were prospectively included. Skin parameters, including melanin, erythema, hydration, sebum, and elasticity, were measured using a multi-probe instrument at 6 time points: before the initiation of radiotherapy (pre-RT), at weeks 1, 3, and 5 during radiotherapy (weeks 1-5), and 1 and 3-month after radiotherapy (post-RT-1m and post-RT-3m). Patient-reported outcomes (PROs) were assessed at each time point. Changes in biophysical parameters and PRO were compared between patients with and without TEI (TEI+ vs. TEI-).

RESULTS

Thirty-eight patients, including 18 with TEI+ and 20 with TEI-, were analyzed. The pattern of time-course changes in biophysical parameters and PRO did not differ between TEI+ and TEI- patients. The melanin index was highest at post-RT-1m, while the erythema index was highest at week 5. At post-RT-3m, TEI+ patients presented higher melanin values than TEI- patients, with no statistical significance (coefficient, 47.9 vs. 14.2%; p = 0.07). In all patients, water content decreased throughout the measurement period. At post-RT-3m, TEI+ patients demonstrated a further decrease in water content, while the TEI- group nearly recovered the water content to pre-RT status (coefficient, -17.1, -2.5; p = 0.11). The sebum and elasticity levels were not altered by TEI.

CONCLUSION

In patients undergoing PMRT, TEI did not significantly affect the changing patterns of skin biophysical parameters and PRO during radiotherapy.

Sensory words may facilitate certain haptic exploratory procedures in facial cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Many people want to have healthy facial skin. They tend to check their skin's condition by touching their face with their hands. In the cosmetic industry, we need to understand what consumers are perceiving in a tactile sense when touching their own facial skin. The purpose of this study was to investigate these observation methods in order to systematically understand people's haptic exploratory procedures (HEPs).

METHODS

Thirty-four participants living in the United States and twenty-two participants living in Japan freely explored their faces and answered which side felt more closely related to the six tactile adjectives. A new analysis was applied to classify the observed HEPs into six classifications within two categories and three sizes of contact area by experts.

RESULT

It was confirmed that the new task was useful to observe the HEPs for participants from United States and Japan. The US participants' HEPs for 'moisturized' were mainly a middle-sized contact area using a stroking motion. On the other hand, Japanese participants' HEPs for 'moisturized' ('shittori' in Japanese) mainly used a pushing movement. Moreover, the US participants' HEPs for 'soft' included both pushing and stroking, but Japanese participants HEPs for 'soft' ('yawarakai' in Japanese) were again mainly pushing.

CONCLUSION

This study suggests that the proposed analysis method enables the systematic understanding of HEPs when checking the skin, along with the cross-cultural differences affecting those procedures. These systematic findings could allow cosmetic formulators to have a better understanding of the tactile sensations consumers themselves are feeling in a variety of different global markets.

Assessment of skin barrier function using skin images with topological data analysis

Recent developments of molecular biology have revealed diverse mechanisms of skin diseases, and precision medicine considering these mechanisms requires the frequent objective evaluation of skin phenotypes. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is commonly used for evaluating skin barrier function; however, direct measurement of TEWL is time-consuming and is not convenient for daily clinical practice. Here, we propose a new skin barrier assessment method using skin images with topological data analysis (TDA). TDA enabled efficient identification of structural features from a skin image taken by a microscope. These features reflected the regularity of the skin texture. We found a significant correlation between the topological features and TEWL. Moreover, using the features as input, we trained machine-learning models to predict TEWL and obtained good accuracy (R² = 0.524). Our results suggest that assessment of skin barrier function by topological image analysis is promising.

Skin Recovery After Discontinuation of Long-Term Moisturizer Application: A Split-Face Comparison Pilot Study

Introduction

Facial moisturizers are commonly used by healthy women and increasingly men of all age groups. This study aimed to investigate the effects of moisturizer discontinuation and the subsequent evolution of symptoms.

Methods

Two prospective observational split-face comparison pilot studies were performed in Switzerland and enrolled (I) 20 healthy women aged 17–25 years in winter and (II) 36 female subjects 15–20 and 40–55 years of age in summer. Moisturizers were stopped on the investigational half of the face. On the control side, the usual skin care regimen was continued. Daily subjective (I/II) and objective (I) skin assessments for the occurrence of typical symptoms of dry skin (dryness, itching, scales, redness, wrinkles) were collected.

Results

In the winter study (cohort I) in both the subjective and objective assessment, all skin changes increased significantly within 1 day after discontinuation. On day 7, dryness (p < 0.001), itching (p < 0.025), redness (p < 0.001) and scales (p < 0.049) were significantly different in the subjective assessment and redness (p < 0.004) and scales (p < 0.001) in the objective assessment. Skin dryness reverted to baseline levels after 6 days in the objective assessment and 10 days in the subjective assessment. The control side’s condition was reached after 6 days. In the summer study (II), only among the 15–20-year-olds was dryness significantly higher on the intervention side from day 1 (p < 0.028) to day 14 (p < 0.009). Their recovery time was 11 days until dryness intensity scores comparable to baseline were reached, and 21 days until the control side’s values were matched. Over a 7-day period, the overall mean dryness score was significantly different between the interventional and control sides for both young and old participants.

Conclusions

Both healthy young and aging female subjects react with typical symptoms of temporary dryness to a sudden stop of a previous long-term moisturizer treatment but regain normal levels quickly without continuation of moisturizers. The skin recovery time for skin dehydration is 1–3 weeks in young female subjects with varying intensities depending on the season.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (10.1007/s13555-020-00453-0) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

The effectiveness of ferulic acid and microneedling in reducing signs of photoaging: A split-face comparative study

Photoaging is closely related to ultraviolet-induced oxidative stress. Ferulic acid is a plant-based antioxidant with antiaging activity. Combining ferulic acid peel with microneedling enhances its transdermal penetration. This study was designed to evaluate the efficacy of 14% ferulic acid peel combined with microneedling for facial photoaging. Sixteen women aged 45 to 60 years with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III were enrolled in this trial. All patients received eight treatment sessions with a full face application of chemical peeling based on 14% ferulic acid in 1-week intervals. During each session, on the right half of patient's face, peeling application was followed by microneedling. Efficacy was measured using Multi Probe Adapter (Courage + Khazaka electronic). The measurement of hydration, elasticity, melanin index, and erythema index were taken before treatments, after eighth session and 1 month after the last application. The objective evaluation showed statistically significant improvement in all measured skin parameters (P < .05), after ferulic acid peel application, as well as ferulic acid peel followed by microneedling. Combined therapy showed significantly greater improvement especially in skin elasticity, comparing to peeling administered alone. Ferulic acid has a significant bleaching, antiredness, smoothing, and moisturizing activity. When combined with microneedling, the efficiency is increased, in particular regarding skin elasticity.

Favorable effect of creams with skimmed donkey milk encapsulated in nanoliposomes on skin physiology

The use of donkey milk has a long history in external dermal application for cosmetic and medical purposes. The encapsulation of different drugs into nanoliposomes and nutrients may have many benefits for the delivery of the targeted substance. The aim of the present study is to test creams with nanoliposomes encapsulated with skimmed donkey milk, reported in our registered patent, compared with effect of the placebo cream and the untreated skin. To investigate the effect of formulated cream, we have measured the electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss and the skin pH value. The study included 15 healthy volunteers (11 women and 4 men). The patented creams exhibited satisfactory moisturizing properties very soon after application, while hydration was reached earlier in the spots treated with night cream. Transepidermal water loss slightly decreased only after 4 weeks of treatment in each of the spots assessed. The pH value was similar after each of the treatments. Tested creams may enhance the moisture of skin very soon after application, in this way potentially enable deeper permeation of phospholipids and essential proteins, without changing the pH. It may also contribute to additional anti-aging effects.

Combination of minimum wiping pressure and number of wipings that can remove pseudo-skin dirt: A digital image color analysis

BACKGROUND

Excessive wiping friction in skin care may lead to skin damage. Bed baths are required to remove skin dirt without affecting the skin barrier function; the wiping pressure and number of wipings that satisfy these two requirements have not been clarified. This study aimed to determine the minimum wiping pressure and number of wipings that can remove skin dirt.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In this quasi-experimental study, 50 healthy adults received an adhesion of pseudo-oily and aqueous dirt, randomly assigned to the left and right forearms. Each participant was wiped three times with wiping pressure classified into six randomly assigned categories. The dirt removal rate was calculated by color-analyzing images captured before and after each wiping, and its dependence on the combination of wiping pressure and number of wipings was assessed using a linear mixed model.

RESULTS

The combinations achieving oily dirt removal rates of 80% or more were wiping once and pressure ≥50 mmHg, wiping twice and pressure ≥40 mmHg, and wiping thrice and pressure ≥10 mmHg. Aqueous dirt was removed almost completely by wiping once, even with pressure ≥5 mmHg.

CONCLUSION

Wiping with at least 10 mmHg or more three times can sufficiently remove both oily and aqueous dirt. Dirt removal rates with weak pressure can be made about as effective as those achieved with strong pressure by increasing the number of wipings. This result can be applied to daily nursing, home care, and long-term care health facilities.

Prospective Evaluation of the Efficacy of a Food Supplement in Increasing Photoprotection and Improving Selective Markers Related to Skin Photo-Ageing

INTRODUCTION

Skin exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) can cause oxidative stress, particularly in the absence of adequate protective measures or in individuals with a sensitive skin type. Most commonly, protection from UVR entails the use of topical sunscreens. Sunscreens, however, have various limitations. The objective of this study was to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of an oral food supplement containing a combination of actives with mainly antioxidative properties (vitamins A, C, D3, E, selenium, lycopene, lutein, as well as green tea, polypodium and grape extracts) in the context of photoprotection.

METHODS

Photoprotective efficacy was assessed in a 12-week-long, open, prospective and monocentric clinical study with 30 subjects (27 women and 3 men) having a Fitzpatrick skin type I-III and manifesting clinical ageing signs. The study included several visits (14, 28, 56, and 84 days after starting supplement intake), in which photoprotection was evaluated by the measurement of the minimal erythema dose (MED), while the antioxidant capacity of the skin was assessed through ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and malondialdehyde (MDA) assays. Additionally, several skin parameters (including radiance, elasticity, and moisture) were evaluated. Product evaluation was performed throughout the length of the study by means of a self-assessment questionnaire, and safety was monitored through a self-recording of all observed adverse reactions.

RESULTS

The MED levels increased significantly compared to baseline throughout the study visits, reaching an increase of + 8.1% at T84, p < 0.001. FRAP results also indicated a significant increase in the antioxidant capacity of the skin compared to baseline (+ 22.7% at T84, p < 0.001), while the MDA assay showed a significant decrease in MDA concentration compared to baseline (- 6.4% at T84, p < 0.001) which, in line with the FRAP results, indicated enhanced antioxidative protection of the skin. All assessed skin parameters, including radiance (+ 36.1% at T84, p < 0.001), gross elasticity (+ 13.2% at T84, p < 0.001), net elasticity (+ 28.0% at T84, p < 0.001), and moisture (+ 13.8% at T84, p < 0.001) were also significantly improved. The product was well tolerated as no adverse events were attributed by the investigators to the use of the product. Additionally, the global score obtained from the self-assessment questionnaires provided overwhelmingly positive feedback from the study subjects.

CONCLUSIONS

The food supplement evaluated in this study was effective and well-tolerated by the subjects, demonstrating a beneficial effect in terms of photoprotection, enhancing the antioxidative status of the skin and improving general skin condition.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Retrospectively registered 3rd October 2019, ISRCTN18121679.

Measurement of skin hydration with a portable device (SkinUp® Beauty Device) and comparison with the Corneometer®

BACKGROUND

Epidermis hydration measurement is an important tool to assess its health. SkinUp^® is a portable device that measures moisture and oil levels of skin through impedance method, it is cheap and has small dimensions, but this equipment has not yet been cited in the scientific literature. Thus, the objective of this work was to validate SkinUp^® equipment by comparing its results with Corneometer^® CM825.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty subjects had skin hydration measurement on forearm, cheeks, and forehead. Measurements obtained with the two instruments were correlated by calculating the Pearson correlation coefficient and the P-value significance. The sensitivity of the equipment to different regions and treatments and their accuracy were also evaluated.

RESULTS

Positive correlations between equipment were found for skin hydration, with P ≤ .001. Both instruments presented high sensitivity to the different treatments (P < .001). When sensitivity to different regions was evaluated, both showed greater hydration in the cheek and forehead when compared to the forearm (P < .005). The measurements between the cheek and forehead showed no significant difference when compared to each other. In addition, the two devices have good repeatability in the measurements.

CONCLUSION

These results indicate that SkinUp^® can be used in the future for skin analysis in in vivo assays.

The anti-sebum property of chitosan particles

BACKGROUND

Seborrhea is linked to several medical and mental conditions. Although it is common, effective agents and the standardized sebum level for seborrhea are not elucidated.

AIMS

To determine the efficacy of chitosan particles (CP) formulation on controlling sebum secretion, its extended effects on skin redness and texture after combining with proretinal nanoparticles (CP-PRN), and a correlation of the clinical grading with sebum levels that affect mental health.

PATIENTS/METHODS

A four-week clinical trial with forty subjects was conducted. Subjects applied either CP formulation or CP-PRN during nighttime. Objective measurements including sebum levels, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin corneometry, skin redness, and texture were analyzed. Subjects completed a self-assessment clinical grading of skin oiliness at every visit.

RESULTS

Both CP and CP-PRN significantly decreased sebum levels (P ≤ .01) at week 4 compared to baseline. CP also resulted in significant decreases in TEWL (P ≤ .05) and skin corneometry (P ≤ .05) throughout the study. A significant improvement in skin redness was observed with CP-PRN (P ≤ .01). A moderate correlation between the clinical grading and sebum levels was detected (coefficient of 0.5, P ≤ .001), with a sebum level of 106 μg cm^-2 indicating emotional discomfort. One subject experienced local irritation with the CP-PRN. Mild pruritic symptoms were reported in both groups.

CONCLUSIONS

Chitosan particles exhibited an interesting anti-sebum effect. It could be combined with PRN to extend benefits without losing the sebum controlling effect. The clinical grading may be useful in practice due to a modest correlation with sebum levels.

Quantitative assessment of radiodermatitis through a non-invasive objective procedure in patients with breast cancer

Assessment of skin condition is necessary for providing advice regarding skin self-care to patients with breast cancer who have undergone radiation therapy. Acute and chronic phases of radiodermatitis were analyzed in patients using objective assessment tools in the present study. A total of 18 women who received radiation therapy for breast cancer were enrolled in the present study and their skin surface temperature (SST), hydration level of the skin surface (HL), melanin intensity (MI) and erythema intensity (EI) were measured prior to radiation therapy and six months thereafter. Furthermore, skin condition was assessed using the Common Terminology Criteria for Adverse Events (CTCAE). EI and MI levels at the irradiated site peaked upon the completion of radiation therapy and declined to baseline at 6 months. In contrast, SST levels were elevated at the irradiated site during radiation therapy (P<0.05) and plateaued after its completion. The same parameters in non-irradiated control sites remained unchanged during the study period. HL reached the minimum in irradiated and non-irradiated sites upon completion of radiation therapy. Although HL returned to baseline in the non-irradiated site 6 months after radiation therapy, it remained low in the irradiated site. No relationship between the CTCAE and EI level was observed. In conclusion, the present study demonstrated that objective assessment tools, including SST and EI levels, were useful for assessing skin condition during radiodermatitis. The combination of the CTCAE and objective assessment tools will enable a more accurate assessment of radiodermatitis.

A Collagen Supplement Improves Skin Hydration, Elasticity, Roughness, and Density: Results of a Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Blind Study

The purpose of this randomized, placebo-controlled, blind study was to investigate the effects of the drinkable nutraceutical ELASTEN^® (QUIRIS Healthcare, Gütersloh, Germany) on skin aging and skin health. Drinking ampoules provides a blend of 2.5 g of collagen peptides, acerola fruit extract, vitamin C, zinc, biotin, and a native vitamin E complex. This controlled interventional trial was performed on 72 healthy women aged 35 years or older. They received either the food supplement (n = 36) or a placebo (n = 36) for twelve weeks. A skin assessment was carried out and based on objective validated methods, including corneometry (skin hydration), cutometry (elasticity), the use of silicon skin replicas with optical 3D phase-shift rapid in-vivo measurements (PRIMOS) (roughness), and skin sonography (density). The verum group was followed for an additional four weeks (without intake of the test product) to evaluate the sustainability of the changes induced by the intake of the test product. The test product significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity, roughness, and density. The differences between the verum group and the placebo group were statistically significant for all test parameters. These positive effects were substantially retained during the follow-up. The measured effects were fully consistent with the subjective assessments of the study participants. The nutraceutical was well tolerated.

Evaluation of moisturizing and irritation potential of sacha inchi oil

OBJECTIVE

The moisturizing and irritation effects of sacha inchi oil were evaluated.

STUDY DESIGN

The moisturizing effect on the skin was clinically assessed using a regression study design. Sacha inchi oil or olive oil (benchmark) was applied on the left or right lower leg of the subjects for 14 days followed by application discontinuation for 2 days. The TEWL, skin moisture content and dryness appearance were observed.

METHODS

The fatty acid composition and characteristics of cold-pressed sacha inchi seed oil were determined. Skin tissues cultured ex vivo were used to assess primary irritation induced by the oil by examining keratin 1 expression and TNF-α and IL-1α release from the oil-applied tissues.

RESULTS

The sacha inchi oil contained 42.3% linolenic acid and 39.5% linoleic acid. This oil's saponification, iodine, acid and peroxide values were 168.58 ± 1.55 mg KOH/g, 203.00 ± 0.04 g I₂ /100 g, 1.68 ± 0.03 mg KOH/g, and 1.95 ± 0.26 mEq peroxide/kg, respectively. Compared with nontreated skin tissues, induced secretion of TNF-α and IL-1α and disruption of keratin 1 integrity in the stratum corneum layer were not found in the sacha inchi oil-treated tissues. In a clinical study with 13 volunteers, the improvement in moisture content and skin dryness appearance at the sacha inchi oil-applied site was comparable with that observed at the olive oil-applied site.

CONCLUSIONS

The sacha inchi oil was mild to the skin and benefited dry skin.

Medical compression stockings on the skin moisture in patients with chronic venous disease

Background: Because of side effects like skin dryness and consecutive symptoms like itching the therapy of chronic venous insufficiency (CVI) with medical compression stockings (MCS) can lead to a diminished wear comfort and restricted compliance. Compression stockings with integrated skin care may have a positive influence on the skin hydration and moreover a positive effect on patients compliance. Patients and methods: In this monocentric, randomized prospective, controlled trial a below knee conventional MCS was compared to a medical compression stocking with integrated skin care (MCS-SC), interface pressure range 23-32 mmHg. Participants: 50 patients with CVI. Primary outcome: skin hydration. Secondary outcomes: transepidermal water loss, skin roughness, leg volume, interface pressure and questionnaires about quality of life and wear comfort. Results: In patients wearing MCS the skin moisture decreased (p = 0.021) and the skin roughness increased significantly (p = 0.001), whereas in patients wearing the MCS-SC skin moisture and skin roughness changed only slightly (n.s.). These protective effects of MCS-SC compared to MCS were most common in patients with CVI at stage 3 (p = 0.046), in male patients (p = 0.013) and patients with initial dry skin (p = 0.034). Both MCS reduced lower leg volume, MCS by 80 ml (p < 0.001) and MCS-SC by 60 ml (p < 0.001), both MCS improved quality of life: leg complaints (p = 0.0003); functional status (p = 0.010), well-being and life satisfaction (p = 0.030). Wear comfort: In terms of tightness, constriction in bond area and strenuous donning the MCS-SC was assessed significantly more comfortable than MCS (p < 0.001). Conclusions: MCS-SC revealed to be superior to MCS with regard to skin moisture, particularly in patients with low skin humidity, in male patients and in patients with C3, varicose veins accompanied by edema.

Understanding rates of genital-anal injury: Role of skin color and skin biomechanics

PURPOSE

A series of studies suggest that non-Hispanic White women have significantly more injuries than non-Hispanic Black women after sexual assault and consensual sexual intercourse. One explanation for this difference is that the degree of skin protection may vary as skin mechanics and skin pigmentation vary. The aim of the study was to determine the association among genital-anal injury, skin color, skin viscoelasticity and skin hydration in women following consensual sexual intercourse when controlling for age, smoking history, body mass index (BMI), sun exposure, and health status.

PROCEDURES

We employed a prospective cohort study design to enroll women 21 years of age or older at two study sites. They underwent two data collection sessions, baseline and follow-up after consensual sexual intercourse. Baseline genital-anal injury identification occurred with a standard forensic examination (direct visualization, nuclear staining with toluidine blue contrast, and colposcopy examination) and measurements of other variables (skin color, skin viscoelasticity, skin hydration, age, smoking history, body mass index [BMI], sun exposure, and health status). Participants were then asked to have consensual sexual intercourse with a male partner of their choice and to return for a second forensic examination for injury detection. Genital-anal injury was regressed on skin color, skin viscoelasticity, skin hydration, age, smoking history, BMI, sun exposure, and health status.

FINDINGS

We enrolled 341 participants, 88 non-Hispanic White (25.8%), 54 non-Hispanic Black (15.8%), 190 Hispanic/Latina (55.7), and 9 Other Identities (2.6%). At baseline the genital-anal injury prevalence was 57.77% and at follow-up after consensual sexual intercourse, injury prevalence was 72.73%. External genital injury prevalence was associated with increased L* (lightness) values (Adjusted Odds Ratio [AOR] = 1.98, 95% Confidence Interval [CI] = 1.03, 4.04) and decreased skin elasticity (AOR = 0.96, 95% CI = 0.93, 0.99) at baseline. Increased skin hydration was associated with a significantly higher frequency of external, internal, anal, and total genital-anal injuries (Adjusted Rate Ratio [ARR] > 1.27) at follow-up. Also at the follow-up examination, Hispanic/Latina participants had significantly lower external genital and total genital-anal injury prevalence and frequency as compared to non-Hispanic White participants (AOR < 0.40).

CONCLUSIONS

Our findings provide qualified support for the importance of skin color during the forensic examination. Women with lighter skin tones may have skin that is more easily injured than women with darker tones. In contrast, external genital injuries may be more easily identified in women with light as compared to dark skin, a situation that is important in both the health care and criminal justice systems. Additionally, women with decreased viscoelasticity and increased hydration may be more easily injured. These findings support the need to develop forensic procedures that are effective in people across the range of skin colors and to interpret forensic findings considering the innate properties of the skin.

Skin Hydration Level as a Predictor for Diabetic Wound Healing: A Retrospective Study

BACKGROUND

In the diabetic foot, the skin may crack and develop fissures, potentially increasing vulnerability to ulceration and infection. Therefore, maintaining adequate skin hydration may be crucial for diabetic wound healing. However, no clinical study has addressed this issue. This study aimed to determine and compare the effect of the skin hydration level on diabetic wound healing with that of the tissue oxygenation level, which is recognized as the most reliable parameter in predicting diabetic wound healing.

METHODS

This retrospective study included 263 diabetic patients with forefoot ulcers. Skin hydration and transcutaneous oxygen pressure data collected before and after percutaneous transluminal angioplasty were analyzed. Skin hydration and tissue oxygenation were graded as poor, moderate, or acceptable. Wound healing outcomes were graded as healed without amputation, minor amputation, or major amputation. Wound healing outcomes were compared using four parameters: skin hydration at baseline, transcutaneous oxygen pressure at baseline, post-percutaneous transluminal angioplasty skin hydration, and post-percutaneous transluminal angioplasty transcutaneous oxygen pressure.

RESULTS

Each of the four parameters exhibited statistically significant correlations with wound healing outcomes. In the concurrent analysis of both skin hydration and transcutaneous oxygen pressure, skin hydration was a dominant parameter (p = 0.0018) at baseline, whereas transcutaneous oxygen pressure was a dominant parameter (p < 0.0001) following percutaneous transluminal angioplasty.

CONCLUSIONS

Skin hydration level might be a useful predictor for diabetic wound healing. In particular, the skin hydration level before recanalization was found to be superior to transcutaneous oxygen pressure in predicting wound healing.

CLINICAL QUESTION/LEVEL OF EVIDENCE

Risk, III.