[Association between trunk muscle activation and wall inclination during various static climbing positions: implications for therapeutic climbing]

Cardiorespiratory demands of competitive rock climbing

Rock climbing has become a mainstream sport, contested on the Olympic stage. The work/rest pattern of bouldering is unique among disciplines, and little is known about its physiological demands. This study characterised the cardiorespiratory responses to simulated competition. Eleven elite boulderers (7 male) volunteered to participate (age = 23.3 ± 4.5 years; mass = 68.2 ± 9.7 kg; stature = 1.73 ± 0.06 m; body fat = 10.4% ± 5%). Subjects completed incremental treadmill running to determine maximal capacities. On a separate day, they undertook a simulated Olympic-style climbing competition comprising 5 boulder problems, each separated by 5 min of rest. Pulmonary ventilation, gas exchange, and heart rate were assessed throughout. Total climbing time was 18.9 ± 2.7 min. Bouldering elicited a peak oxygen uptake of 35.8 ± 7.3 mL·kg^-1·min^-1 (∼75% of treadmill maximum) and a peak heart rate of 162 ± 14 beats·min^-1 (∼88% of maximum). Subjects spent 22.9% ± 8.6% of climbing time above the gas exchange threshold. At exercise cessation, there was an abrupt and significant increase in tidal volume (1.4 ± 0.4 vs. 1.8 ± 0.4 L; p = 0.006, d = 0.83) despite unchanged minute ventilation. Cardiorespiratory parameters returned to baseline within 4 min of the rest period. In conclusion, competitive bouldering elicits substantial cardiorespiratory demand and evidence of tidal volume constraint. Further studies are warranted to explore the effect of cardiorespiratory training on climbing performance. Novelty: Competitive bouldering evokes a high fraction of maximal oxygen uptake and prolonged periods above the gas exchange threshold. Climbing appears to impose a constraint on tidal volume expansion. Cardiorespiratory indices in elite climbers return to baseline within 2-4 min.

Comparative analysis of trunk muscle activities in climbing of during upright climbing at different inclination angles

[Purpose] This study was performed to provide evidence for the therapeutic exercise approach through a compative analysis of muscle activities according to climbing wall inclination. [Subjects and Methods] Twentyfour healthy adult subjects without climbing experience performed static exercises at a therapeutic climbing at with various inclination angles (0°, 10°, 20°), and the activities of the trunk muscles (rectus abdominis, obliquus externus abdominis, obliquus internus abdominis, erector spinae) were measured using surface electromyography (EMG) for 7 seconds. [Results] Significant differences were found between the inclination angles of 10° and 0°, as well as 20° in the rectus abdominis, obliquus internus abdominis, right obliquus externus abdominis, and right erector spinae. [Conclusion] Based on measurements of trunk muscle activity in a static climbing standing position at different angles, significant changes in muscle activity appear to be induced at 10 degrees. Therefore, the results appear to provide clinically relevant evidence.