Three-dimensional joint moments analysis in a vertical quadrupedal posture associated with a leg release

Assessment of fluency dynamics in climbing

The aim of this study was to investigate the hold-by-hold climbing fluency dynamics by using an instrumented holds system that measured the contact time on each hold. Forty-four competitive climbers have been analysed in a regional lead climbing competition during a route composed of 41 instrumented holds on 11 m high artificial climbing wall and with a grade of difficulty 6b on the French scale (IRCRA reported scale: 13). After removing 10 climbers who fell before the top of the route, the 34 remaining climbers who completed the route were clustered according to their total contact time on each hold. The hierarchical cluster analysis distinguished four profiles of climbing fluency dynamics, on the basis of six 'crux' points, showing that the fastest climbers at the crux points were those with the shortest climbing time. This new instrumented-holds system appeared very innovative as it provides an instantaneous feedback to coaches regarding inter-limbs fluency and subsequent motor organisations.

Idiosyncratic control of the center of mass in expert climbers

Here, we studied posture and movement coordination adopted by expert climbers. The investigation of such expertise might be of particular interest to gain understanding about the mechanisms underlying the biomechanical control of vertical quadrupedal locomotion. A novel custom setup was developed to analyze the motion of the center-of-mass (COM) and complementary information about the dynamic distribution of vertical reaction forces under the feet during climbing in nine elite climbers (EC) and nine control subjects. Two adaptive features were found in EC. First, unexpectedly they tended to maintain larger COM distances from the wall relative to controls, during both the static and dynamic phases of vertical motion (by ∼5 cm in both cases). Second, while the control subjects tended to restrain the lateral motion of the COM, all EC demonstrated systematic COM oscillations (∼1.3 times larger) associated with a significant alternating dynamic redistribution of the body weight between the limbs during the double support phase. The latter phenomenon likely reflects an adopted basic climbing strategy in experts. Furthermore, a convergence of the optimal solution towards a more diagonal climbing strategy in EC may shed light on the origin of the diagonal gait in primates and early hominids habituated to quadrupedal vertical locomotion.

3D analysis of the body center of mass in rock climbing

The purpose of the present study was to search for common patterns and for differences in climbing strategies in a group of recreational climbers. Twelve participants were involved in the study. Each participant climbed a simple indoor route consisting of a 3m horizontal shift followed by a 3m ascent for five times. Climbers could choose their own style, their preferred speed and holds. Their motion was recorded through motion capture based on passive markers. Results suggested that two main climbing strategies were used: the first preferring agility over force and the second preferring force over agility. We also found that our best climbers tried to minimize power during all trials.