Preparation and evaluation of polymer-encapsulated UV filter nanocapsules with miniemulsion polymerization

Chitosan-coated mesoporous silica particles as a plastic-free platform for photochemical suppression and stabilization of organic ultraviolet filters

Photochemical instability and reactivity of organic ultraviolet (UV) filters not only degrade the performance of sunscreen formulations but also generate toxic photodegradation products and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Although the encapsulation of organic UV filters into synthetic polymer particles has been widely investigated, synthetic plastics were recently banned for personal care and cosmetic products due to marine and coastal pollution issues. Here we present a plastic-free, photochemically stable and inactive UV filter platform based on chitosan-coated mesoporous silica microparticles, denoted 'mSOCPs', incorporating octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) as a sunscreen agent. Sunlight induced the degradation of ∼80% free OMC in artificial sweat in 1 h at room temperature, while only 20% of OMC degraded for 3 h when encapsulated within mSOCPs. Moreover, mSOCPs efficiently suppressed the photochemical generation of ROS by about 99% through the combined effects of the mesoporous silica structure and chitosan coating. Accordingly, mSOCPs substantially increased the cell viability of fibroblasts exposed to UV irradiation. This work demonstrates that the biopolymer coatings of mesoporous inorganic particles can be a promising approach to the plastic-free encapsulation of organic UV filters for suppressing their photochemical reactivity and degradation.

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.