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Rosik N, Preece JA, Fryer PJ, McRobbie I, Zhang ZJ. A review of artificial sebum formulations, their compositions, uses and physicochemical characteristics. Int J Cosmet Sci 2025; 47:168-189. [PMID: 39246274 PMCID: PMC11788007 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13022] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/04/2024] [Revised: 08/14/2024] [Accepted: 08/20/2024] [Indexed: 09/10/2024]
Abstract
Sebum is a complex mixture of skin lipids responsible for lubrication, moisture retention and skin protection from external factors such as bacteria and fungi. The physicochemical properties of natural sebum are not well understood and are not easily accessible. Artificial sebum is widely used for sebum-related research such as dermal bioaccessibility, fingerprint production, dermatology, removal and sebum studies. It was found that the composition of artificial sebum affects the bioaccessibility of metals and drugs as well as the growth of some strains of bacteria. Squalene present in sebum was also found to be responsible for creating yellow stains on fabrics, whereas an increased concentration of fatty acids and triglycerides can lead to higher malodour of fabrics. Moreover, sebum and artificial sebum are poorly characterized with only 20 of 81 formulations characterized by certain techniques such as differential scanning calorimetry, nuclear magnetic resonance and thin-layer chromatography. This article reviews the artificial sebum formulations reported in the open literature between 1965 and 2023. We have discussed the compositions, uses and characterization techniques of artificial sebum used in the previous work and compared their properties to those of human sebum. A total of 81 artificial sebum formulations were found across the literature with 17 new formulations identified. The artificial sebum composition varies greatly between publications and there is no consistent formulation. There is a wide range of chemicals that are used as the main components of artificial sebum. We have highlighted the effect of chemical composition and individual compounds on the overall properties of the artificial sebum reported, and recommend that there is a great potential for creating personalized cosmetics and home care products once the characteristics of sebum are better understood.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nicole Rosik
- School of Chemical EngineeringUniversity of BirminghamEdgbastonUK
| | - Jon A. Preece
- School of ChemistryUniversity of BirminghamEdgbastonUK
| | - Peter J. Fryer
- School of Chemical EngineeringUniversity of BirminghamEdgbastonUK
| | - Ian McRobbie
- Innospec Ltd, Innospec Manufacturing ParkCheshireUK
| | - Zhenyu J. Zhang
- School of Chemical EngineeringUniversity of BirminghamEdgbastonUK
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Champmartin C, Seiwert C, Aubertin M, Joubert E, Marquet F, Chedik L, Cosnier F. Percutaneous absorption of two bisphenol a analogues, BPAF and TGSA: Novel In vitro data from human skin. CHEMOSPHERE 2024; 367:143564. [PMID: 39424152 DOI: 10.1016/j.chemosphere.2024.143564] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/21/2024] [Revised: 10/15/2024] [Accepted: 10/16/2024] [Indexed: 10/21/2024]
Abstract
Bisphenol AF (BPAF) and TGSA are analogues of Bisphenol A (BPA). BPAF is used in polymer synthesis, while TGSA is applied in thermal papers. The EU classifies BPAF as toxic to reproduction and TGSA as a skin sensitizer. However, TGSA's other health effects remain unclear. BPAF contamination has been noted among electronic waste workers, and TGSA exposure is documented in various professions. Despite the significance of skin contact, data on skin permeation rates for BPAF and TGSA are limited. This study aimed to generate percutaneous absorption data for BPAF and TGSA following OECD guidelines. [14C]-labeled BPAF or TGSA was applied to human skin samples in vitro using Franz diffusion cells for 20 and 40 h, respectively. Key parameters such as steady-state flux, lag time, and skin permeability coefficient (Kp) were calculated. Furthermore, the distribution of the dose across different compartments, particularly within the skin, was evaluated at the conclusion of the experiment. Sequential strippings and epidermis-dermis separation were conducted for BPAF to predict the potential absorption of the remaining dose present within the skin. The permeability coefficients for BPAF and TGSA were found to be 1.9 E-03 and 1.6 E-03 cm/h, with 22% and 23% of the applied doses absorbed, respectively. Both chemicals are classified as "fast" penetrants based on their Kp values. These findings suggest that BPAF and TGSA are absorbed through the skin, highlighting potential occupational risks through dermal exposure. The new percutaneous absorption data will enhance the assessment of the occupational risks.
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Affiliation(s)
- Catherine Champmartin
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
| | - Claire Seiwert
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
| | - Matthieu Aubertin
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
| | - Emmy Joubert
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
| | - Fabrice Marquet
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
| | - Lisa Chedik
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
| | - Frédéric Cosnier
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
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Marquet F, Champmartin C, Seiwert C, Aubertin M, Viton S, Chedik L, Cosnier F. Human in vitro percutaneous absorption of bisphenol S: Assessment of the skin reservoir and occlusion effects. Toxicol In Vitro 2024; 99:105886. [PMID: 38945377 DOI: 10.1016/j.tiv.2024.105886] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/07/2023] [Revised: 06/25/2024] [Accepted: 06/26/2024] [Indexed: 07/02/2024]
Abstract
Bisphenol S (BPS) was introduced in many industrial and commercial applications as a presumed safer alternative to bisphenol A. However, concerns have been raised surrounding skin absorption and potential persistence of BPS and its related toxic effects in humans. A previous study revealed the likelihood of a reservoir building up in exposed skin. Here, we studied the interactions of BPS solubilized in acetone, ultrapure water, or artificial sebum with freshly excised human skin samples. In vitro tests were performed in static Franz diffusion cells, to explore reservoir and occlusion effects, absorption and metabolism. Most BPS passed through the skin without metabolization - <10% was recovered as glucuronide or sulfate conjugates. Importantly, a substantial amount of BPS persisted in the skin, especially in the stratum corneum. This reservoir could lead to prolonged diffusion into the body after surface cleaning. Occlusion, that may occur with protective clothing, amplified BPS absorption up to six-fold. These findings have implications for occupational settings, highlighting the persistence of BPS contamination even after washing the skin's surface and the need to ensure protective equipment is correctly maintained and used.
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Affiliation(s)
- Fabrice Marquet
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité, rue du Morvan, CS 60027, 54519 Vandoeuvre les Nancy, Cedex, France.
| | - Catherine Champmartin
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité, rue du Morvan, CS 60027, 54519 Vandoeuvre les Nancy, Cedex, France
| | - Claire Seiwert
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité, rue du Morvan, CS 60027, 54519 Vandoeuvre les Nancy, Cedex, France
| | - Matthieu Aubertin
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité, rue du Morvan, CS 60027, 54519 Vandoeuvre les Nancy, Cedex, France
| | - Stéphane Viton
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité, rue du Morvan, CS 60027, 54519 Vandoeuvre les Nancy, Cedex, France
| | - Lisa Chedik
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité, rue du Morvan, CS 60027, 54519 Vandoeuvre les Nancy, Cedex, France
| | - Frédéric Cosnier
- Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité, rue du Morvan, CS 60027, 54519 Vandoeuvre les Nancy, Cedex, France
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Simon K, Reichardt P, Luch A, Roloff A, Siewert K, Riedel F. Less efficient skin penetration of the metal allergen Pd 2+ compared to Ni 2+ and Co 2+ from patch test preparations. Contact Dermatitis 2024; 91:11-21. [PMID: 38676576 DOI: 10.1111/cod.14569] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/14/2023] [Revised: 03/01/2024] [Accepted: 04/17/2024] [Indexed: 04/29/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Contrary to Ni2+- and Co2+-induced allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), reactions against Pd2+ are rare. However, Pd2+ activates a larger T cell fraction in vitro, suggesting an inefficient skin penetration. OBJECTIVES This study compares Ni2+, Co2+ and Pd2+ skin penetration from commonly used diagnostic patch test preparations (PTPs) and aqueous metal salt solutions. METHODS Using Franz diffusion cell assays, we applied the metals in PTPs (5% NiSO4, 1% CoCl2, 2% PdCl2 and 3% Na2PdCl4) and in solution to pigskin for 48 h, thereby mirroring the time frame of a patch test. The different compartments were analysed individually by inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry. RESULTS Metal ions were mainly retained in the upper stratum corneum layers. After application of PTPs, concentrations in the viable skin were lower for Pd2+ (1 and 7 μM) compared to Ni2+ and Co2+ (54 and 17 μM). CONCLUSIONS Ni2+ and Co2+ penetrated the skin more efficiently than Pd2+ and thus may sensitize and elicit ACD more easily. This was observed for ions applied in petrolatum and aqueous solutions. We hypothesize that the differently charged metal complexes are responsible for the varying skin penetration behaviours.
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Affiliation(s)
- Konstantin Simon
- Department of Chemical and Product Safety, German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), Berlin, Germany
- Department of Biology, Chemistry, Pharmacy, Institute of Pharmacy, Freie Universität Berlin, Berlin, Germany
| | - Philipp Reichardt
- Department of Chemical and Product Safety, German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), Berlin, Germany
| | - Andreas Luch
- Department of Chemical and Product Safety, German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), Berlin, Germany
- Department of Biology, Chemistry, Pharmacy, Institute of Pharmacy, Freie Universität Berlin, Berlin, Germany
| | - Alexander Roloff
- Department of Chemical and Product Safety, German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), Berlin, Germany
| | - Katherina Siewert
- Department of Chemical and Product Safety, German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), Berlin, Germany
| | - Franziska Riedel
- Department of Chemical and Product Safety, German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), Berlin, Germany
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Chen Q, Yi S, Yang L, Zhu L. Penetration pathways, influencing factors and predictive models for dermal absorption of exobiotic molecules: A critical review. THE SCIENCE OF THE TOTAL ENVIRONMENT 2024; 927:172390. [PMID: 38608904 DOI: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2024.172390] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/28/2024] [Revised: 04/08/2024] [Accepted: 04/08/2024] [Indexed: 04/14/2024]
Abstract
This review provides a comprehensive summary of the skin penetration pathways of xenobiotics, including metals, organic pollutants, and nanoparticles (NPs), with a particular focus on the methodologies employed to elucidate these penetration routes. The impacts of the physicochemical properties of exogenous substances and the properties of solvent carriers on the penetration efficiencies were discussed. Furthermore, the review outlines the steady-state and transient models for predicting the skin permeability of xenobiotics, emphasizing the models which enable realistic visualization of pharmaco-kinetic phenomena via detailed geometric representations of the skin microstructure, such as stratum corneum (SC) (bricks and mortar) and skin appendages (hair follicles and sebaceous gland units). Limitations of published research, gaps in current knowledge, and recommendations for future research are highlighted, providing insight for a better understanding of the skin penetration behavior of xenobiotics and associated health risks in practical application contexts.
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Affiliation(s)
- Qiaoying Chen
- Key Laboratory of Pollution Processes and Environmental Criteria, Ministry of Education, Tianjin Key Laboratory of Environmental Remediation and Pollution Control, College of Environmental Science and Engineering, Nankai University, Tianjin 300350, PR China
| | - Shujun Yi
- Key Laboratory of Pollution Processes and Environmental Criteria, Ministry of Education, Tianjin Key Laboratory of Environmental Remediation and Pollution Control, College of Environmental Science and Engineering, Nankai University, Tianjin 300350, PR China.
| | - Liping Yang
- Key Laboratory of Pollution Processes and Environmental Criteria, Ministry of Education, Tianjin Key Laboratory of Environmental Remediation and Pollution Control, College of Environmental Science and Engineering, Nankai University, Tianjin 300350, PR China
| | - Lingyan Zhu
- Key Laboratory of Pollution Processes and Environmental Criteria, Ministry of Education, Tianjin Key Laboratory of Environmental Remediation and Pollution Control, College of Environmental Science and Engineering, Nankai University, Tianjin 300350, PR China
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Chedik L, Baybekov S, Cosnier F, Marcou G, Varnek A, Champmartin C. An update of skin permeability data based on a systematic review of recent research. Sci Data 2024; 11:224. [PMID: 38383523 PMCID: PMC10881585 DOI: 10.1038/s41597-024-03026-4] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/18/2023] [Accepted: 01/30/2024] [Indexed: 02/23/2024] Open
Abstract
The cutaneous absorption parameters of xenobiotics are crucial for the development of drugs and cosmetics, as well as for assessing environmental and occupational chemical risks. Despite the great variability in the design of experimental conditions due to uncertain international guidelines, datasets like HuskinDB have been created to report skin absorption endpoints. This review updates available skin permeability data by rigorously compiling research published between 2012 and 2021. Inclusion and exclusion criteria have been selected to build the most harmonized and reusable dataset possible. The Generative Topographic Mapping method was applied to the present dataset and compared to HuskinDB to monitor the progress in skin permeability research and locate chemotypes of particular concern. The open-source dataset (SkinPiX) includes steady-state flux, maximum flux, lag time and permeability coefficient results for the substances tested, as well as relevant information on experimental parameters that can impact the data. It can be used to extract subsets of data for comparisons and to build predictive models.
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Affiliation(s)
- Lisa Chedik
- Institut national de recherche et de sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France.
| | - Shamkhal Baybekov
- Laboratoire de Chémoinformatique UMR 7140 CNRS, Institut Le Bel, University of Strasbourg, 4 Rue Blaise Pascal, 67081, Strasbourg, France
| | - Frédéric Cosnier
- Institut national de recherche et de sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France
| | - Gilles Marcou
- Laboratoire de Chémoinformatique UMR 7140 CNRS, Institut Le Bel, University of Strasbourg, 4 Rue Blaise Pascal, 67081, Strasbourg, France
| | - Alexandre Varnek
- Laboratoire de Chémoinformatique UMR 7140 CNRS, Institut Le Bel, University of Strasbourg, 4 Rue Blaise Pascal, 67081, Strasbourg, France
| | - Catherine Champmartin
- Institut national de recherche et de sécurité pour la prévention des accidents du travail et des maladies professionnelles (INRS), Dept Toxicologie et Biométrologie, 1 rue du Morvan, 54519, Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France
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