Characteristics of bakuchiol - the compound with high biological activity and the main source of its acquisition - Cullen corylifolium (L.) Medik

Clinical Studies Using Topical Melatonin

Melatonin is ubiquitously present in all animals and plants, where it exerts a variety of physiological activities thanks to its antioxidant properties and its key role as the first messenger of extracellular signaling functions. Most of the clinical studies on melatonin refer to its widespread oral use as a dietary supplement to improve sleep. A far smaller number of articles describe the clinical applications of topical melatonin to treat or prevent skin disorders by exploiting its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. This review focuses on the clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin as a photoprotective, anti-aging, or hair growth-promoting agent. The methodologies and results of such studies are discussed to provide an overall picture of the state of the art in this intriguing field of research. The clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin before exposure to radiation (UV, sunlight, and high-energy beams) were all characterized by an appropriate design (randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled) and strongly support its clinical efficacy in preventing or reducing skin damage such as dermatitis, erythema, and sunburn. Most of the studies examined in this review do not provide a clear demonstration of the efficacy of topical melatonin as a skin anti-aging or as a hair growth-promoting agent owing to limitations in their design and/or to the use of melatonin combined with extra active ingredients, except for one trial that suggests a possible beneficial role of melatonin in treating some forms of alopecia in women. Further research efforts are required to reach definitive conclusions concerning the actual benefits of topical melatonin to counteract skin aging and hair loss.

Bakuchiol regulates TLR4/MyD88/NF-κB and Keap1/Nrf2/HO-1 pathways to protect against LPS-induced acute lung injury in vitro and in vivo

Bakuchiol (Bak) possesses a protective effect in acute lung injury (ALI). Nonetheless, the molecular processes that regulate the protective activity of Bak in ALI remain elusive. Lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated rats and RLE-6TN cells were used as the ALI models in vivo and in vitro to investigate the function and mechanism of Bak. Rats were divided into four groups: control, LPS, LPS + Bak (30 mg/kg), and LPS + Bak (60 mg/kg). RLE-6TN cells were assigned into four groups: control, LPS, LPS + Bak (10 µM), and LPS + Bak (20 µM). Myeloperoxidase (MPO) and 4-hydroxy-2-nonenal (4-HNE) levels were detected by immunohistochemistry (IHC). The levels of TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β were quantified by ELISA. Apoptosis was analyzed by TdT-mediated dUTP nick-end labeling (TUNEL) staining and flow cytometry. Malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), and reactive oxygen species (ROS) were assayed to evaluate oxidative stress. In LPS-induced rats, Bak attenuated pathological injury, lung wet/dry weight ratio, MPO expression, and protein concentration and cell number in bronchial alveolar lavage fluid (BALF). Bak decreased the secretion of TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β in BALF. Bak reduced MDA content and 4-HNE expression, and increased SOD and GSH-Px activities in lung tissues. Bak also repressed pulmonary apoptosis by decreasing Bax expression and enhancing Bcl-2 expression. In LPS-treated RLE-6TN cells, Bak downregulated the mRNA levels of TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β and inhibited the protein expression of iNOS and COX2. Bak decreased MDA level and ROS production and increased SOD and GSH-Px activities. Bak also suppressed cell apoptosis, reduced Bax expression, and increased Bcl-2 expression. Moreover, Bak decreased the expression of TLR4, MyD88, p-IκBα, and p-p65. Additionally, Bak inhibited Keap1 expression and increased Nrf2 and HO-1 levels. Bak protects against LPS-induced inflammation, oxidative stress, and apoptosis in ALI by regulating TLR4/MyD88/NF-κB and Keap1/Nrf2/HO-1 pathways.

Development of a new chromatographic method for the determination of bakuchiol in cosmetic products

The aim of this study was to develop and validate a simple, fast, and universal reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography method with fluorescence detection for the quantitation and evaluation of the stability of bakuchiol in cosmetic products. The analyte was extracted by tetrahydrofuran and separated on a Zorbax Eclipse Plus C18 analytical column (100 × 4.6 mm, 3.5 μm particle size) by a gradient elution program with the mobile phase consisting of water and acetonitrile and a flow rate of 1.0 mL min-1. The column temperature was held at 25 °C and fluorescence detection was performed at excitation and emission wavelengths of 264 and 338 nm, respectively. The stability studies of bakuchiol in cosmetic products were conducted under various conditions, including thermal and photolytic degradation, according to International Conference on Harmonization Guidelines. The calibration curve was linear in the range of 0.5-50.0 μg g-1 with a correlation coefficient greater than 0.9999. The limits of detection and quantification of the method were 0.1 and 0.5 μg g-1, respectively. Recovery values were in the range of 93.37-106.39 μg g-1, with relative standard deviations less than 6%. The method has been successfully applied to analyze different types of cosmetic products and proved to be reliable.

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

A Brief Review of Natural Products with Urate Transporter 1 Inhibition for the Treatment of Hyperuricemia

Hyperuricemia is a common disease caused by a high level of uric acid. Urate transporter 1 (URAT1) is an important protein and mediates approximately 90% of uric acid reabsorption. Therefore, the URAT1 inhibitor is a class of uricosuric medicines widely used in the clinic for the treatment of hyperuricemia. To find the new medicine with stronger URAT1 inhibition and lower toxicity, researchers have been exploring natural products. This study systematically summarizes the natural products with URAT1 inhibition. The results show that many natural products are potential URAT1 inhibitors, such as flavonoids, terpenoids, alkaloids, coumarins, stilbenes, and steroids, among which flavonoids are the most promising source of URAT1 inhibitors. It is worth noting that most studies have focused on finding natural products with inhibition of URAT1 and have not explored their activities and mechanisms toward URAT1. By reviewing the few existing studies of the structure-activity relationship and analyzing common features of natural products with URAT1 inhibition, we speculate that the rigid ring structure and negative charge may be the keys for natural products to produce URAT1 inhibition. In conclusion, natural products are potential URAT1 inhibitors, and exploring the mechanism of action and structure-activity relationship will be an important research direction in the future.

Skin Depigmenting Agents in Anti-Aging Cosmetics: A Medicinal Perspective on Emerging Ingredients

Human skin aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Uneven pigmentation is one of the major changes of extrinsic aging. Many compounds have been tested for depigmenting activity but only a few are actually used by the cosmetic industry, which is continually looking for new ingredients. In this study, the trends in the use of skin depigmenting ingredients in a panel of anti-aging formulations commercialized in the Portuguese pharmacy market were analyzed, by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018 (59% and 74%, respectively). The analysis of the top 12 ingredients put forward three novelties for 2018: tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and 4-butylresorcinol. Regarding their mechanisms of action, tranexamic acid inhibits melanin synthesis through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. Bakuchiol depigmenting efficacy was attributed to the ability to block both α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and tyrosinase activation, while 4-butylresorcinol exerts its action through the inhibition of both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). Industry-optimized and efficient synthetic methodologies that embrace green chemistry, reducing the environmental impact, are commonly used. This analysis aims to bring insights to both formulators, involved in the development of depigmenting cosmetic products, and chemists performing the synthesis of new and existing compounds intended for this purpose.