Secondary Prevention of HAPE in a Mount Everest Summiteer

Altitude illnesses

Millions of people visit high-altitude regions annually and more than 80 million live permanently above 2,500 m. Acute high-altitude exposure can trigger high-altitude illnesses (HAIs), including acute mountain sickness (AMS), high-altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) and high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE). Chronic mountain sickness (CMS) can affect high-altitude resident populations worldwide. The prevalence of acute HAIs varies according to acclimatization status, rate of ascent and individual susceptibility. AMS, characterized by headache, nausea, dizziness and fatigue, is usually benign and self-limiting, and has been linked to hypoxia-induced cerebral blood volume increases, inflammation and related trigeminovascular system activation. Disruption of the blood-brain barrier leads to HACE, characterized by altered mental status and ataxia, and increased pulmonary capillary pressure, and related stress failure induces HAPE, characterized by dyspnoea, cough and exercise intolerance. Both conditions are progressive and life-threatening, requiring immediate medical intervention. Treatment includes supplemental oxygen and descent with appropriate pharmacological therapy. Preventive measures include slow ascent, pre-acclimatization and, in some instances, medications. CMS is characterized by excessive erythrocytosis and related clinical symptoms. In severe CMS, temporary or permanent relocation to low altitude is recommended. Future research should focus on more objective diagnostic tools to enable prompt treatment, improved identification of individual susceptibilities and effective acclimatization and prevention options.

Swallow-breathing coordination during incremental ascent to altitude

Swallow and breathing are highly coordinated behaviors reliant on shared anatomical space and neural pathways. Incremental ascent to high altitudes results in hypoxia/hypocapnic conditions altering respiratory drive, however it is not known whether these changes also alter swallow. We examined the effect of incremental ascent (1045 m, 3440 m and 4371 m) on swallow motor pattern and swallow-breathing coordination in seven healthy adults. Submental surface electromyograms (sEMG) and spirometry were used to evaluate swallow triggered by saliva and water infusion. Swallow-breathing phase preference was different between swallows initiated by saliva versus water. With ascent, saliva swallows changed to a dominate pattern of occurrence during the transition from inspiration to expiration. Additionally, water swallows demonstrated a significant decrease in submental sEMG duration and a shift in submental activity to earlier in the apnea period, especially at 4371 m. Our results suggest that there are changes in swallow-breathing coordination and swallow production that likely increase airway protection with incremental ascent to high altitude. The adaptive changes in swallow were likely due to the exposure to hypoxia and hypocapnia, along with airway irritation.

Acute high-altitude sickness

At any point 1–5 days following ascent to altitudes ≥2500 m, individuals are at risk of developing one of three forms of acute altitude illness: acute mountain sickness, a syndrome of nonspecific symptoms including headache, lassitude, dizziness and nausea; high-altitude cerebral oedema, a potentially fatal illness characterised by ataxia, decreased consciousness and characteristic changes on magnetic resonance imaging; and high-altitude pulmonary oedema, a noncardiogenic form of pulmonary oedema resulting from excessive hypoxic pulmonary vasoconstriction which can be fatal if not recognised and treated promptly. This review provides detailed information about each of these important clinical entities. After reviewing the clinical features, epidemiology and current understanding of the pathophysiology of each disorder, we describe the current pharmacological and nonpharmacological approaches to the prevention and treatment of these diseases.

Lack of acclimatisation is the main risk factor for acute altitude illness; descent is the optimal treatmenthttp://ow.ly/45d2305JyZ0

Drug Use and Misuse in the Mountains: A UIAA MedCom Consensus Guide for Medical Professionals

Donegani, Enrico, Peter Paal, Thomas Küpper, Urs Hefti, Buddha Basnyat, Anna Carceller, Pierre Bouzat, Rianne van der Spek, and David Hillebrandt. Drug use and misuse in the mountains: a UIAA MedCom consensus guide for medical professionals. High Alt Med Biol. 17:157-184, 2016.-Aims: The aim of this review is to inform mountaineers about drugs commonly used in mountains. For many years, drugs have been used to enhance performance in mountaineering. It is the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation-Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme) Medcom's duty to protect mountaineers from possible harm caused by uninformed drug use. The UIAA Medcom assessed relevant articles in scientific literature and peer-reviewed studies, trials, observational studies, and case series to provide information for physicians on drugs commonly used in the mountain environment. Recommendations were graded according to criteria set by the American College of Chest Physicians.

RESULTS

Prophylactic, therapeutic, and recreational uses of drugs relevant to mountaineering are presented with an assessment of their risks and benefits.

CONCLUSIONS

If using drugs not regulated by the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA), individuals have to determine their own personal standards for enjoyment, challenge, acceptable risk, and ethics. No system of drug testing could ever, or should ever, be policed for recreational climbers. Sponsored climbers or those who climb for status need to carefully consider both the medical and ethical implications if using drugs to aid performance. In some countries (e.g., Switzerland and Germany), administrative systems for mountaineering or medication control dictate a specific stance, but for most recreational mountaineers, any rules would be unenforceable and have to be a personal decision, but should take into account the current best evidence for risk, benefit, and sporting ethics.

Real-time electrocardiogram transmission from Mount Everest during continued ascent

The feasibility of a real-time electrocardiogram (ECG) transmission via satellite phone from Mount Everest to determine a climber’s suitability for continued ascent was examined. Four Taiwanese climbers were enrolled in the 2009 Mount Everest summit program. Physiological measurements were taken at base camp (5300 m), camp 2 (6400 m), camp 3 (7100 m), and camp 4 (7950 m) 1 hour after arrival and following a 10 minute rest period. A total of 3 out of 4 climbers were able to summit Mount Everest successfully. Overall, ECG and global positioning system (GPS) coordinates of climbers were transmitted in real-time via satellite phone successfully from base camp, camp 2, camp 3, and camp 4. At each camp, Resting Heart Rate (RHR) was transmitted and recorded: base camp (54–113 bpm), camp 2 (94–130 bpm), camp 3 (98–115 bpm), and camp 4 (93–111 bpm). Real-time ECG and GPS coordinate transmission via satellite phone is feasible for climbers on Mount Everest. Real-time RHR data can be used to evaluate a climber’s physiological capacity to continue an ascent and to summit.

Physiology and pathophysiology with ascent to altitude

With increasing altitude, there is a fall in barometric pressure and a progressive fall in the partial pressure of oxygen. Acclimatization describes the physiologic changes that help maintain tissue oxygen delivery and human performance in the setting of hypobaric hypoxemia. These changes include a marked increase in alveolar ventilation, increased hemoglobin concentration and affinity, and increased tissue oxygen extraction. In some individuals, these physiologic changes may be inadequate, such that the sojourn to altitude and the attendant hypoxia are complicated by altitude-associated medical illness. The rate of ascent, the absolute change in altitude, and individual physiology are the primary determinants whether illness will develop or not. The most common clinical manifestations of altitude illness are acute mountain sickness, high altitude pulmonary edema, and high altitude cerebral edema.