Topical and nutricosmetic products for healthy hair and dermal antiaging using "dual-acting" (2 for 1) plant-based peptides, hormones, and cannabinoids

Overview of Peptides and Their Potential Roles in Skin Health and Beauty

Peptides are molecules that consist of at least two amino acids linked by peptide bonds. The difference between peptides and proteins is primarily based on size and structure. Typically, oligopeptides consist of fewer than about 10-20 amino acids, and polypeptides consist of more than 20 amino acids, whereas proteins usually are made up more than 50 amino acids and often contain multiple peptide subunits as stated in the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry rules. Beyond the nutritional properties, peptides are also structural components of hormones, enzymes, toxins, and antibiotics and play several fundamental physiological roles in the body. Since the introduction of the first commercial peptide drug, insulin, peptide-based drugs have gained increased interest. So far, more than 80 peptide-based drugs have reached the market for a wide range of conditions, such as diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, and urological disorders. Meanwhile, peptides have also gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry because of their potential in boosting skin health. In this review, peptides were comprehensively summarized in the aspects of sources, function, the use of peptides in cosmetics and skin care, and indications for the delivery of cosmetic peptides.

Molecular Mechanisms of Hair Follicle Development

Hair is an intricate biological structure that originates from hair follicles (HFs), which are complex mini-organs embedded in the skin. Each HF undergoes continuous cycles of growth (anagen), regression (catagen), and rest (telogen), driven by intricate signaling pathways and interactions between epithelial and mesodermal cells. The development of HFs requires the interplay of several key signaling pathways, including Wnt, Shh, Notch, and BMP. The Wnt pathway is primarily involved in induction, Shh is essential for early organogenesis and later stages of cytodifferentiation, Notch signaling governs the fate of HF stem cells, and BMP plays a role in cytodifferentiation. Hair health is closely associated with psychological well-being and personal distress. While hair loss (alopecia) does not impact biological health, it significantly affects social well-being. Therefore, a deep understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying HF development is crucial for developing treatments for hair-related problems and improving hair health. This knowledge has led to significant advancements in therapeutic applications, particularly in treating hair loss disorders, enhancing wound healing, and developing cosmetic treatments. This paper aims to review the molecular mechanisms involved in HF development, with an emphasis on their potential impact on human health and well-being.

Assessing the efficacy of mesotherapy products: Ultra Exo Booster, and Ultra S Line Plus in hair growth: An ex vivo study

In this study, scalp tissues from Korean adults between 20 and 80 without skin disease were used. Scalp tissues were processed, and hair follicles were isolated and cultured with different treatments (including Bioscalp, Ultra Exo Booster, and Ultra S Line Plus) from Ultra V company. Over 12 days, observations and measurements of hair follicle characteristics were recorded at intervals (Days 0, 3, 6, 9, and 12). The study assessed the impact of these substances on hair follicle growth and morphology. Bioscalp, combined with Ultra Exo Booster and Ultra S Line Plus, showed significant hair elongation in ex vivo. Preservation of hair bulb diameter was observed, indicating potential for sustained hair growth by exosome-based products. The hair growth cycle analysis suggested a lower transition to the catagen stage in test products from Ultra V compared to non-treated groups. The research findings indicated that the tested formulations, especially the combination of Bioscalp, Ultra Exo Booster, and Ultra S Line Plus, demonstrated significant effectiveness in promoting hair growth, maintaining the integrity of the hair bulb, and reducing the transition to the catagen stage. The study suggests promising alternative treatments for hair loss, illustrating results that were as good as those of the conventional testing product groups.

Exploiting the bioactive properties of essential oils and their potential applications in food industry

Fruits are an abundant source of minerals and nutrients. High nutritional value and easy-to-consume property have increased its demand. In a way to fulfil this need, farmers have increased production, thus making it available for consumers in various regions. This distribution of fruits to various regions deals with many associated problems like deterioration and spoilage. In a way, the common practices that are being used are stored at low temperatures, preservation with chemicals, and many more. Recently, edible coating has emerged as a promising preservation technique to combat the above-mentioned problems. Edible coating stands for coating fruits with bioactive compounds which maintains the nutritional characteristics of fruit and also enhances the shelf life. The property of edible coating to control moisture loss, solute movement, gas exchange, and oxidation makes it most suitable to use. Preservation is uplifted by maintaining the nutritional and physicochemical properties of fruits with the effectiveness of essential oils. The essential oil contains antioxidant, antimicrobial, flavor, and probiotic properties. The utilization of essential oil in the edible coating has increased the property of coating. This review includes the process of extraction, potential benefits and applications of essential oils in food industry.

Are South African Wild Foods the Answer to Rising Rates of Cardiovascular Disease?

The rising burden of cardiovascular disease in South Africa gives impetus to managerial changes, particularly to the available foods in the market. Since there are many economically disadvantaged groups in urban societies who are at the forefront of the CVD burden, initiatives to make healthier foods available should focus on affordability in conjunction with improved phytochemical diversity to incentivize change. The modern obesogenic diet is deficient in phytochemicals that are protective against the metabolic products of sugar metabolism, i.e., inflammation, reactive oxygen species and mitochondrial fatigue, whereas traditional southern African food species have high phytochemical diversity and are also higher in soluble dietary fibres that modulate the release of sugars from starches, nurture the microbiome and produce digestive artefacts that are prophylactic against cardiovascular disease. The examples of indigenous southern African food species with high horticultural potential that can be harvested sustainably to feed a large market of consumers include: Aloe marlothii, Acanthosicyos horridus, Adansonia digitata, Aloe ferox, Amaranthus hybridus, Annesorhiza nuda, Aponogeton distachyos, Bulbine frutescens, Carpobrotus edulis, Citrullus lanatus, Dioscorea bulbifera, Dovyalis caffra, Eleusine coracana, Lagenaria siceraria, Mentha longifolia, Momordica balsamina, Pelargonium crispum, Pelargonium sidoides, Pennisetum glaucum, Plectranthus esculentus, Schinziophyton rautanenii, Sclerocarya birrea, Solenostemon rotundifolius, Talinum caffrum, Tylosema esculentum, Vigna unguiculata and Vigna subterranea. The current review explains the importance of phytochemical diversity in the human diet, it gives a lucid explanation of phytochemical groups and links the phytochemical profiles of these indigenous southern African foods to their protective effects against cardiovascular disease.

Cosmeceuticals: A Newly Expanding Industry in South Africa

Africa is counted amongst the cosmetic market contributors; however, South Africa’s remarkable plant diversity is still largely untapped in terms of its potential for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Thus, we aim to provide a critical assessment of the advancements made in South African cosmeceuticals with emphasis towards online local companies/brands that are manufactured by small, medium and micro enterprises (SMMEs). For the current study, we limited our search of herbal cosmeceutical products to SMMEs with online websites, or products traded in other online cosmetic directories such as ‘Faithful to Nature’ and ‘African Botanicals’ using a simple Google search. We recorded more than 50 South African SMME companies/brands involved in the trade of cosmeceuticals. Skin and hair care were the major product categories widely traded in these online platforms. Furthermore, few patents were recorded from South African researchers and institutions thereof, which is quite alarming considering the extensive research that has been undertaken to study these commercially valuable plants. Based on the increasing number of new products and the wide pool of economically important plants coupled to their associated rich indigenous knowledge systems, the cosmeceutical sector can contribute to the economy, job creation, entrepreneurship skills, socio-economic development and intellectual property generation.

Fundamental Chemistry of Essential Oils and Volatile Organic Compounds, Methods of Analysis and Authentication

The current text provides a comprehensive introduction to essential oils, their biosynthesis, naming, analysis, and chemistry. Importantly, this text quickly brings the reader up to a level of competence in the authentication of essential oils and their components. It gives detailed descriptions of enantiomers and other forms of stereoisomers relevant to the study of natural volatiles and essential oils. The text also describes GC-MS work and provides tips on rapid calculation of arithmetic indices, how to interpret suggested names from the NIST mass spectral library, and what additional efforts are required to validate essential oils and defeat sophisticated adulteration tactics. In brief, essential oils are mixtures of volatile organic compounds that were driven out of the raw plant material in distillation, condensed into an oil that is strongly aroma emitting, and collected in a vessel as the top layer (uncommonly bottom layer) of two phase separated liquids: oil and water. Essential oils commonly include components derived from two biosynthetic groups, being terpenes (monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes and their derivatives) and phenylpropanoids (aromatic ring with a propene tail). The current text provides details of how terpenes and phenylpropanoids are further categorised according to their parent skeleton, then recognised by the character of oxidation, which may be from oxygen, nitrogen, or sulphur, or the presence/absence of a double bond. The essential oil's science niche is an epicentre of individuals from diverse backgrounds, such as aromatherapy, pharmacy, synthetic and analytical chemistry, or the hobbyist. To make the science more accessible to the curious student or researcher, it was necessary to write this fundamentals-level introduction to the chemistry of essential oils (i.e., organic chemistry in the context of essential oils), which is herein presented as a comprehensive and accessible overview. Lastly, the current review constitutes the only resource that highlights common errors and explains in simplistic detail how to correctly interpret GC-MS data then accurately present the respective chemical information to the wider scientific audience. Therefore, detailed study of the contents herein will equip the individual with prerequisite knowledge necessary to effectively analyse an essential oil and make qualified judgement on its authenticity.

South Africa's Best BARK Medicines Prescribed at the Johannesburg Muthi Markets for Skin, Gut, and Lung Infections: MIC's and Brine Shrimp Lethality

Indigenous trade of medicinal plants in South Africa is a multi-million-rand industry and is still highly relevant in terms of primary health care. The purpose of this study was to identify today's most traded medicinal barks, traditionally and contemporaneously used for dermatological, gastrointestinal, and respiratory tract infections; then, to investigate the antimicrobial activity and toxicity of the respective extracts and interpret outcomes in light of pharmacokinetics. Thirty-one popularly traded medicinal barks were purchased from the Faraday and Kwa Mai-Mai markets in Johannesburg, South Africa. Information on the medicinal uses of bark-based medicines in modern commerce was recorded from randomly selected traders. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) method was used for antimicrobial screening, and brine shrimp lethality was used to determine toxicity. New medicinal uses were recorded for 14 bark species. Plants demonstrating some broad-spectrum activities against tested bacteria include Elaeodendron transvaalense, Erythrina lysistemon, Garcinia livingstonei, Pterocelastrus rostratus, Rapanea melanophloeos, Schotia brachypetala, Sclerocarya birrea, and Ziziphus mucronata. The lowest MIC value of 0.004 mg/mL was observed against Staphylococcus epidermidis for a dichloromethane bark extract of E. lysistemon. The tested medicinal barks were shown to be non-toxic against the Artemia nauplii (brine shrimp) bioassay, except for a methanol extract from Trichilia emetica (69.52% mortality). Bacterial inhibition of bark extracts with minimal associated toxicity is consistent with the safety and valuable use of medicinal barks for local muthi market customers. Antimicrobial outcomes against skin and gastrointestinal pathogens are feasible because mere contact-inhibition is required in vivo; however, MIC values against respiratory pathogens require further explaining from a pharmacokinetics or pharmacodynamics perspective, particularly for ingested rather than smoked therapies.