Two superior antioxidants: Ferulic acid and ascorbic acid in reducing signs of photoaging-A split-face comparative study

Photoaging: Current Concepts on Molecular Mechanisms, Prevention, and Treatment

Photoaging is the consequence of chronic exposure to solar irradiation, encompassing ultraviolet (UV), visible, and infrared wavelengths. Over time, this exposure causes cumulative damage, leading to both aesthetic changes and structural degradation of the skin. These effects manifest as rhytids, dyschromia, textural changes, elastosis, volume loss, telangiectasias, and hyperkeratosis, collectively contributing to a prematurely aged appearance that exceeds the skin's chronological age. The hallmarks of photoaging vary significantly by skin phototype. Skin of color tends to exhibit dyschromia and features associated with "intrinsic" aging, such as volume loss, while white skin is more prone to "extrinsic" aging characteristics, including rhytids and elastosis. Moreover, susceptibility to different wavelengths within the electromagnetic spectrum also differs by skin phototype, influencing the clinical presentation of photoaging, as well as prevention and treatment strategies. Fortunately, photoaging-and its associated adverse effects-is largely preventable and, to some extent, reversible. However, effective prevention and treatment strategies require careful tailoring to an individual's skin type. In this review, we summarize molecular mechanisms underlying photoaging, examine its clinical manifestations, outline risk factors and prevention strategies, and highlight recent advancements in its treatment.

Typha pollen extract inhibit melanogenesis via α-MSH/MC1R signaling pathway in B16 and melasma mouse model

The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of Typha Pollen extract on melanogenesis in B16 and melasma mouse model. The effects of TP extract on B16 viability, melanin content of B16, MC1R content and TYR activity were studied by MTT assay, NaOH method, ELISA assay and dopa oxidation assay, respectively. In melasma mouse model, the effects of TP extract on MC1R content, MITF content and TYR activity were studied by ELISA assay, immunofluorescence staining and dopa oxidation assay, respectively. The results showed that the appropriate concentration of TP extract does not affect cell viability, and that TP extract inhibit B16 melanin, MC1R content and TYR activity. The results showed that TP extract inhibit skin MC1R content, MITF content and TYR activity. TP extract inhibit B16 melanin, inhibit proteins of α-MSH/MC1R signaling pathway such as MC1R, MITF and TYR. So TP extract is a natural and effective potential whitening agent.

A Case Series With Cysteamine-Isobionicamide Complex: Clues for Skin-Rejuvenating Activity

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is inevitable. Wrinkles, skin texture abnormalities, senile hyperpigmentation, loss of skin tone, dryness, atrophy, and telangiectasias represent some of the hallmarks of aged skin. Skin rejuvenation can be addressed by topical therapies, such as topical retinoids and antioxidants or physical modalities with energy-based devices, all providing acceptable outcomes. In this case series, we aimed to test the rejuvenating potential of the combination of cysteamine (a naturally occurring antioxidant) and isobionicamide (a derivative of the anti-aging molecule niacinamide) applied topically.

METHODS

Healthy male and female patients (N = 7) aged between 25 and 70 years and having Fitzpatrick skin types I-VI were recruited. Topical application of a cysteamine-isobionicamide formula was done once daily. Treatment lasted for 16 weeks. Clinical high-resolution photos were acquired using LifeViz 3D at recruitment and after 16 weeks. Blinded dermatological examinations and scoring were performed. Self-assessment and quality of life (QoL) questionnaires were collected.

RESULTS

Clinical photos showed improvement in skin luminosity, increased evenness of skin tone, and reduction of fine wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation. Patients as well as clinical investigators blinded to the chronology of photos observed the improvements in skin texture, luminosity, and radiance, the brightening of the dark spots, as well as the reduction of both number and volume of wrinkles after 16 weeks of daily application. Furthermore, a significant improvement in patients' quality of life was recorded.

CONCLUSION

This case series represents the first evidence that topical application of cysteamine isobionic-amide complex could be considered as a safe and effective option in the reversal of skin photoaging.

Lignin extraction from lignocellulosic biomass and its valorization to therapeutic phenolic compounds

Lignocellulosic biomass is a sustainable alternative to finite petroleum resources, with lignin emerging as a major component of biomass for producing circular economy products. Maximizing extraction and valorization of lignin to platform chemicals, biofuels, and bioactive compounds is crucial. Unlocking lignin's full potential lies in exploring the therapeutic properties of lignin-derived phenolics, which can definitely boost the economic viability of integrated biorefineries. This review provides a broad vision of lignin valorization stages, covering various techniques of its extraction from lignocellulosic biomass with high yield and purity and its further depolymerization to phenolics. Therapeutic potential of lignin-derived phenols as antioxidants, antimicrobials, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer agents is comprehensively discussed. Lignin, with high phenolic hydroxyl content up to 97% purity, can be extracted using deep eutectic solvents (DES) and organosolv processes. Oxidative and reductive catalytic depolymerization methods efficiently break down lignin into valuable phenolic compounds like alkyl phenolics and vanillin, even at mild temperatures, making them a preferred choice for lignin valorization. Potential of lignin derived phenolics as versatile bioactive compounds with health promoting benefits is highlighted. Phenolics such as vanillin, ferulic acid, and syringic acid have demonstrated the ability to modulate cellular pathways involved in the pathogenesis of diseases like cancer and diabetes. The interplay between high purity lignin extraction and therapeutic potential of lignin-derived phenolics unveils a new frontier in sustainable healthcare solutions.

Ferulic acid: extraction, estimation, bioactivity and applications for human health and food

Ferulic acid ((E)-3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-phenyl) prop-2-enoic acid) is a derivative of caffeic acid found in most plants. This abundant phenolic compound exhibits significant antioxidant capacity and a broad spectrum of therapeutic effects, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, antidiabetic, cardiovascular and neuroprotective activities. It is absorbed more quickly by the body and stays in the bloodstream for a longer period compared with other phenolic acids. It is widely used in the food (namely whole grains, fruits, vegetables and coffee), pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The current review highlights ferulic acid and its pharmacological activities, reported mechanisms of action, food applications (food preservative, food additive, food processing, food supplements and in food packaging in the form of edible films) and role in human health. In the future, the demand for ferulic acid in the food and pharmaceutical industries will increase. © 2024 The Author(s). Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Chemical Industry.

Molecular Insights on Coffee Components as Chemical Antioxidants

Coffee is not only a delicious beverage but also an important dietary source of natural antioxidants. We live in a world where it is impossible to avoid pollution, stress, food additives, radiation, and other sources of oxidants that eventually lead to severe health disorders. Fortunately, there are chemicals in our diet that counteract the hazards posed by the reactive species that trigger oxidative stress. They are usually referred to as antioxidants; some of them can be versatile compounds that exert such a role in many ways. This review summarizes, from a chemical point of view, the antioxidant effects of relevant molecules found in coffee. Their mechanisms of action, trends in activity, and the influence of media and pH in aqueous solutions, are analyzed. Structure-activity relationships are discussed, and the protective roles of these compounds are examined. A particular section is devoted to derivatives of some coffee components, and another one to their bioactivity. The data used in the analysis come from theoretical and computational protocols, which have been proven to be very useful in this context. Hopefully, the information provided here will pro-mote further investigations into the amazing chemistry contained in our morning coffee cup.   Resumen. El café no solo es una bebida deliciosa, sino también una importante fuente dietética de antioxidantes naturales. Vivimos en un mundo donde es imposible evitar la contaminación, el estrés, los aditivos alimentarios, la radiación y otras fuentes de oxidantes que eventualmente conducen a trastornos de salud graves. Afortunadamente, existen sustancias químicas en nuestra dieta que contrarrestan los peligros planteados por las especies reactivas que desencadenan el estrés oxidativo. Por lo general, se les denomina antioxidantes; algunos de ellos pueden ser compuestos versátiles que ejercen dicho papel de muchas maneras. Este artículo de revisión resume, desde un punto de vista químico, los efectos antioxidantes de moléculas relevantes encontradas en el café. Se analizan sus mecanismos de acción, tendencias en la actividad y la influencia del medio y el pH en soluciones acuosas. Se discuten las relaciones estructura-actividad, y se examinan los roles protectores de estos compuestos. Se dedica una sección particular a los derivados de algunos componentes del café, y otra a su bioactividad. Los datos utilizados en el análisis provienen de protocolos teóricos y computacionales, que han demostrado ser muy útiles en este contexto. Se espera que la información proporcionada aquí promueva investigaciones futuras sobre la química contenida en nuestra taza de café matutina.

The Impact of Carboxytherapy and Treatments Combining Carboxytherapy and Selected Chemical Peels on Vascular and Pigmentary Components of the Dark Circles

Objective

Particular attention is given to the enhancement of melanin-related pigmentation (dark circles, photoaging) and vascular circles, which are commonly located in the tear trough. The objective of the study is to provide an objective evaluation of the impact of carboxytherapy and the treatment regimen combining carboxytherapy with lactobionic acid (20%, pH 2.1) or ferulic acid (14%, pH 4.0-5.0) and ascorbic acid (12%) on skin defects in the eye area.

Materials and Methods

A group of 39 Caucasian people were subjected to a series of five carboxytherapy treatments (right eye area) and five treatments combining carboxytherapy with a selected chemical peel for the skin around the eyes (left eye area). The efficacy of therapy was assessed based on parameters (MI and EI) measured with the Mexameter probe. Measurements were made in the tear trough and the middle of the lower eyelid.

Results

We demonstrated that a series of carboxytherapy (right side) significantly statistically influenced the EI parameter (in different measurement points: P <0.0001, P = 0.015, P = 0.002), which reflects the intensity of vascular circles under the eyes. Improvement of this parameter by 7.2 units was also shown in the tear trough in 82.1% of participants after the application of carboxytherapy combined with acids (left side) on the valley of tears for this parameter (EI). Lactobionic acid and carboxytherapy were associated with a statistically significant improvement (P = 0.011) in the tear trough. In this study, a reduction in the combined pigmentation (MI plus EI) for both the right and left sides (p = 0.001 and p = 0.015, respectively) was observed.

Conclusion

The study provides objective evidence for the effectiveness of sole carboxytherapy and carboxytherapy combined with acids in the reduction of dark circles, in particular vascular circles in the tear trough. Lactobionic acid, ferulic acid, and ascorbic acid can be used as safe supplements to enhance carboxytherapy.

Open-label topical application of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone containing serum improves the appearance of photoaging and uneven pigmentation

BACKGROUND

Skin photoaging and uneven pigmentation are common dermatological concerns. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) and acetyl zingerone (AZ) are potent antioxidants that have been shown to have anti-photoaging and anti-pigmentation effects. THDA is a more stable and penetrable form of vitamin C. AZ is an antioxidant derived from ginger which has clinical evidence for improving photoaging. However, no studies have assessed how they may synergistically act on the skin.

AIMS

This study aims to assess whether a serum containing both THDA and AZ can improve photoaging and the appearance of uneven facial pigmentation.

PATIENTS/METHODS

This open-label study was conducted on 35 healthy individuals aged 21-55. All subjects were instructed to use three to five drops of the topical serum (Power-C Serum, Image Skincare, Lantana, FL) daily for 12 weeks. Videomicroscopy and high-resolution photography and various skin biophysical measurements were taken at baseline, 1, 4, and 12 weeks. Outcomes included skin tone and pigmentation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin smoothness, firmness, and elasticity.

RESULTS

Compared to baseline, the results at 12 weeks revealed significant decreases in skin pigmentation (p < 0.0001), decreased fine lines and wrinkles (p < 0.0001), and increased smoothness (p < 0.0001), firmness (p < 0.0001), and elasticity (p < 0.0001). Additionally, transepidermal water loss was significantly decreased at 4 weeks compared to baseline (p = 0.01), indicating an increased epidermal barrier integrity.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, these findings provide evidence for the combined use of THDA and AZ to address skin photoaging and dyspigmentation changes.

A Cost-Based Analysis of Anti-aging Products Across Four Major United States Retailers

Background In the field of aesthetic dermatology, there is currently very little data on affordability and cost analysis regarding cosmeceuticals as more demand from patients showing interest in cosmeceutical products to reduce and prevent aging continues to grow. Photoaging, a form of extrinsic aging from sun exposure, can be ameliorated by applying sunscreen and retinol products. Topical ascorbic acid and niacinamide have been shown to target the oxidative stress process that contributes to photoaging. These four products have been identified as the cosmeceutical ingredients with the most evidence-based data on photoaging prevention and treatment. Objective Given the demand for effective skin care, the paucity of data on cost differentiation, and the availability of cosmeceutical products, we analyzed the unit cost of four anti-aging products from major online and physical retailers in the United States. Such a cost comparison may facilitate more economically appropriate recommendations on skin care to consumers. Methods and materials We analyzed sunscreen, topical vitamin C (ascorbic acid), topical vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and topical vitamin A (retinol) products sold by four major United States retailers: Walmart, Ulta, Walgreens, and Amazon. The average cost in dollars per ounce (dollar/oz) was calculated for each product category at each retailer. Statistical analyses were done to determine statistical significance for each product category between retailers as well as between each category of product. Results Between the four retailers, Walmart offered the lowest cost per ounce for every product. In contrast, Amazon offered the highest cost per ounce for every product except for sunscreen. We also found that sunscreen products are less expensive per ounce as compared to retinol, ascorbic acid, and niacinamide products. Conclusion Dermatologists should be knowledgeable of product costs when providing patients with anti-aging product recommendations. Our study provides data on the financial cost by retail location of evidence-based anti-aging cosmeceuticals to better guide physicians in patient consulting and economical resource sharing.