Soybean extract showed modulation of retinoic acid-related gene expression of skin and photo-protective effects in keratinocytes

Extracellular Vesicles and PlantCrystals for Improved Bioavailability of Curcumin as a BCS Class IV Drug

The limited water solubility of active compounds remains a significant challenge for efficient dermal drug delivery, particularly for BCS class IV drugs such as curcumin. This study aimed to enhance curcumin's dermal penetration using two strategies: extracellular vesicles (EVs) and plantCrystals derived from soybeans. EVs were isolated using classical methods. However, plantCrystals containing extracellular vesicles (PCEVs) were formed during the preparation of plantCrystals through bead milling. Curcumin was either added after PCEVs were formed, resulting in curcumin-added PCEVs, or added to the soybean dispersion before bead milling, forming curcumin-loaded PCEVs. The formulations were characterized for their physicochemical properties and assessed for dermal penetration efficacy using quantitative dermatokinetic and semi-quantitative ex vivo porcine ear models. The results indicated that curcumin-loaded PCEVs achieved higher penetration efficacy compared to curcumin-added PCEVs and curcumin-loaded EVs, with approximately 1.5-fold and 2.7-fold increases in penetration efficacy, respectively. Additionally, curcumin-loaded PCEVs showed superior penetration depth, while curcumin from the curcumin-loaded EVs remained in the stratum corneum. These findings suggest that the plantCrystals strategy via bead milling offers a more effective approach than the classical EVs strategy for improving the topical delivery of class IV drugs like curcumin.

Extracts Rich in Nutrients as Novel Food Ingredients to Be Used in Food Supplements: A Proposal Classification

Consumers' commitment to healthy lifestyles and a varied diet has experienced rapid growth in recent decades, causing an increase in the demand of better food quality and variety. The food industry has opted for innovation and the search for new sources of food, and these trends led to the need to develop a European regulatory framework. Novel foods are under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (formerly Regulation (EC) No 258/97), and this concept includes all food not used in an important measure for human consumption in the EU before 15 May 1997, and which is included in any of the food categories established. Currently, there are 26 extracts authorized as novel foods or ingredients, being one of the most numerous groups. These extracts are concentrated sources of nutrients, and 23 of them can be used in food supplements. Given their heterogeneous composition and the perceptive risk assessments performed, sometimes, the authorizations are limited to certain population groups. The present work is a comprehensive review of the extracts rich in nutrients authorized as novel ingredients to be used in food supplements within the EU. A classification is proposed according to their source of origin, resulting in four main groups: extracts of plant, animal, algae, and fungal origins. A description of each extract as well as the evaluation of the potential use restriction and health benefits are also addressed.

Eisenia bicyclis Extract Repairs UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging In Vitro and In Vivo: Photoprotective Effects

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) is a major cause of skin aging. The aim of the present study was to determine the photoprotective effect of a 30% ethanol extract of Eisenia bicyclis (Kjellman) Setchell (EEB) against UVB-induced skin aging. By treating human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68) with EEB after UVB irradiation, we found that EEB had a cytoprotective effect. EEB treatment significantly decreased UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein 1 (AP-1) signaling and enhancing the protein expression of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). EEB was also found to recover the UVB-induced degradation of pro-collagen by upregulating Smad signaling. Moreover, EEB increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin in UVB-irradiated human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). EEB decreased UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation by upregulating glutathione peroxidase 1 (GPx1) and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) expression via nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) activation in Hs68 cells. In a UVB-induced HR-1 hairless mouse model, the oral administration of EEB mitigated photoaging lesions including wrinkle formation, skin thickness, and skin dryness by downregulating MMP-1 production and upregulating the expression of pro-collagen type I alpha 1 chain (pro-COL1A1). Collectively, our findings revealed that EEB prevents UVB-induced skin damage by regulating MMP-1 and pro-collagen type I production through MAPK/AP-1 and Smad pathways.

In vitro protective effects of marine-derived Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract on H2O2-stressed primary human fibroblasts

Nowadays, there is a huge interest in natural products obtained from marine organisms that can promote human health.The aim of the present study is to evaluate for the first time, the in vitro effects of marine Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract against oxidative stress in human fibroblasts, and its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. The strain was isolated from the Mediterranean Sea star, Echinaster sepositus, and identified according to ITS molecular sequence homology as a member of Aspergillus section versicolores.To gain insight on the bioactivity underpinning the effects of TM124-S4 extract on oxidative stress, we examined a panel of a hundred genes as well as cell viability. Initially, Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 promoted cell viability.The change in gene transcripts revealed that Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extracts exhibited skin protection properties by mediating cell proliferation (EPS8, GDF15, CASP7, VEGFA), antioxidant response (CAT, SOD1, TXN, GPX1), skin hydration (CD44, CRABP2, SERPINE) and DNA repair (PCNA, P21). The extract also modulated the expression of genes involved in skin pigmentation and aging (TYR, FOXO3).These findings indicate that Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract possesses significant in-vitro skin protection activity against induced oxidative stress.Furthermore, new insights are provided into the beneficial role of fungal bioactive compounds in skin related research.

Skin anti-photoaging properties of ginsenoside Rh2 epimers in UV-B-irradiated human keratinocyte cells

Ginseng, one of the most widely used herbal medicines, has a wide range of therapeutic and pharmacological applications. Ginsenosides are the major bioactive ingredients of ginseng, which are responsible for various pharmacological activities of ginseng. Ginsenoside Rh2, known as an antitumour ginsenoside, exists as two different stereoisomeric forms, 20(S)-ginsenoside Rh2 [20(S)-Rh2] and 20(R)-ginsenoside Rh2 [20(R)-Rh2]. This work aimed to assess and compare skin anti-photoaging activities of 20(S)-Rh2 and 20(R)-Rh2 in UV-B-irradiated HaCat cells. 20(S)-Rh2, but not 20(R)-Rh2, was able to suppress UV-B-induced ROS production in HaCat cells. Both stereoisomeric forms could not modulate cellular survival and NO level in UV-B-irradiated HaCat cells. Both 20(S)-Rh2 and 20(R)-Rh2 exhibited suppressive effects on UV-B-induced MMP-2 activity and expression in HaCat cells. In brief, the two stereoisomers of ginsenoside Rh2, 20(S)-Rh2 and 20(R)-Rh2, possess skin anti-photoaging effects but possibly in different fashions.

Stereoselective skin anti-photoaging properties of ginsenoside Rg3 in UV-B-irradiated keratinocytes

Ginsenosides are major bioactive constituents that are responsible for the diverse pharmacological activities of ginseng. This work aimed to assess the skin anti-photoaging activities of the two stereoisomeric forms of ginsenoside Rg3, 20(S)-Rg3 and 20(R)-Rg3. When the two Rg3 stereoisomers were added to cultured human keratinocyte HaCaT cells prior to irradiation with 70 mJ/cm(2) UV-B, 20(S)-Rg3, but not 20(R)-Rg3, decreased the UV-B-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in a concentration-dependent manner, as detected by both fluorometric and confocal microscopic analyses. Likewise, 20(S)-Rg3, but not 20(R)-Rg3, decreased the UV-B-induced ROS levels in human dermal fibroblast cells. Both stereoisomers were unable to modulate the nitric oxide levels in HaCaT cells under UV-B irradiation, and induced no cytotoxicity in cultured keratinocytes and fibroblasts. 20(S)-Rg3 suppressed the UV-B-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 activities in HaCaT cells. Taken together, these results indicate that 20(S)-Rg3 possesses both ROS-scavenging and MMP-2 inhibitory activities, while 20(R)-Rg3 possesses neither activity. These findings imply that ginsenoside Rg3 stereoselectively demonstrates skin anti-photoaging activities.

Identification of daidzein as a ligand of retinoic acid receptor that suppresses expression of matrix metalloproteinase-9 in HaCaT cells

Retinoids have been used as therapeutics for diverse skin diseases, but their side effects limit clinical usage. Here, we report that extracts of two soybeans, Glycine max and Rhynchosia nulubilis, and their ethyl acetate fractions increased the transcriptional activity of retinoic acid receptors (RARs), and that daidzin and genistin were the major constituents of the active fractions. Daidzin and its aglycone, daidzein, induced transcriptional activity of RAR and RARγ. FRET analysis demonstrated that daidzein, but not daidzin, bound both RAR and RARγ with EC50 values of 28μM and 40μM, respectively. Daidzein increased expression of mRNA of RARγ through direct binding of RAR and recruitment of p300 to the RARγ2 promoter. Further, mRNA and gelatinolytic activity of matrix metalloproteinase-9 were decreased by daidzein in HaCaT cells. Together, these results indicate that daidzein functions as a ligand of RAR that could be a candidate therapeutic for skin diseases.