A preliminary investigation of the impact of oily skin on quality of life and concordance of self-perceived skin oiliness and skin surface lipids (sebum)

Microemulsions and Nanoemulsions for Topical Delivery of Tripeptide-3: From Design of Experiment to Anti-Sebum Efficacy on Facial Skin

The targeted delivery of a hydrophilic Tripeptide-3 to the skin using microemulsions or nanoemulsions for facial oil reduction was the focus of this study. The impact factors affecting oil/water transparent dispersion formation, such as the surfactant system, HLB value, and co-solvent, were identified through the water titration method and pseudoternary phase diagram plots. The interfacial tension between caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT oil) and water was significantly reduced by the surfactant/co-surfactant combination (Smix) of Cremophore® RH40 and a double-tails co-surfactant, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, at an HLB of 13 together with a water-to-co-solvent (PG) ratio of 1:1. A two-level full factorial design of experiment (FFD-DoE) emphasized the independent variables of the HLB value, co-solvent, and CCT oil contents affecting the optimal compositions for micro- or nanoemulsion formation. The low-energy spontaneous emulsification of the optimized combination at a low Smix content (10%) yielded the translucent oil-in-water Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions with an internal droplet size of 25.7 ± 1.20 nm, a narrow polydispersity index of 0.237 ± 0.129, and 70.6 ± 0.58% transmittance. The in vitro skin permeation study revealed a significantly higher skin penetration and retention of the Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions compared to the high surfactant microemulsions and coarse emulsions. Skin irritation and oil control efficacy were evaluated in healthy volunteers before and after product application for 28 days. The obtained nanoemulsions not only decreased sebum production but also enhanced skin moisture levels. In conclusion, the meticulously designed nanoemulsions, incorporating suitable excipients, show a promising delivery system for hydrophilic peptides to control sebum overproduction in oily facial skin.

Enhanced triglyceride adsorption by steam-activated bamboo charcoal based on molecular dynamics investigations

In this study, ordinary bamboo charcoal was activated at 750 °C with a steam flow rate of 6.25 L/min for 1.5 h. The effects of triglyceride adsorption by activated bamboo charcoal were investigated using an orthogonal design, and the adsorption mechanism was explored through molecular dynamics. Experimental results revealed that the adsorption capacity of activated bamboo charcoal for triglycerides reached 27.0%. The activated bamboo charcoal exhibited a specific surface area of 560.0 m2/g. The average pore diameter of activated bamboo charcoal was 1.6 nm, whereas that of ordinary bamboo charcoal was 7.2 nm. Molecular dynamics simulations revealed an interaction energy of - 145.12 kcal/mol between the molecular layers of activated bamboo charcoal and the triglyceride molecules, as well as an interaction energy of - 132.73 kcal/mol between the molecular layers of ordinary bamboo charcoal and the triglyceride molecules. The quantity of triglyceride molecules adsorbed by activated bamboo charcoal per gram was estimated to be 1.77 × 1021 while ordinary bamboo charcoal could adsorb merely 1.56 × 1019 triglyceride molecules per gram. This stark contrast in adsorption capacity underscores the superior performance of activated bamboo charcoal than its counterpart.

Improvements in acne and skin oiliness with tazarotene 0.045% lotion in patients with oily skin

BACKGROUND

Excessive sebum production is a factor in acne development. Tazarotene 0.045% lotion has demonstrated reductions in acne lesions and acne-induced sequelae.

OBJECTIVE

Evaluate efficacy, changes in skin oiliness, and safety with tazarotene 0.045% lotion in participants with moderate-to-severe acne and oily skin.

METHODS

In two phase 3, double-blind, 12-week studies (NCT03168321; NCT03168334), participants aged ≥ 9 years with moderate-to-severe acne were randomized 1:1 to once-daily tazarotene 0.045% lotion or vehicle lotion (N = 1614). This pooled, post hoc analysis included only participants self-categorized with oily skin at baseline on the Acne-Specific Quality of Life questionnaire item 19 (scores: 0 [extremely oily] to 6 [not at all oily]). Inflammatory/noninflammatory lesion counts, treatment success, skin oiliness, treatment-emergent adverse events (TEAEs), and cutaneous safety/tolerability were evaluated.

RESULTS

In all participants with oily skin (n = 793), tazarotene provided greater reductions in inflammatory/noninflammatory lesions (p < 0.001, both) and greater treatment success rates versus vehicle (p < 0.01) at week 12. Over two-thirds of polymeric lotion-treated participants had subjective skin oiliness reductions by week 12, with around a third reporting 'low/not' oily skin. Tazarotene TEAE rates were similar to the overall population.

CONCLUSIONS

Once-daily treatment with tazarotene 0.045% polymeric emulsion lotion may help improve patient-perceived skin oiliness in those with moderate-to-severe acne.

An optimal method for quantifying the facial sebum level and characterizing facial sebum features

BACKGROUND

Evidence suggests that sebum content is important in skin disorders such as acne. However, sebum levels change depending on the external environment, and quantifying skin sebum levels is challenging. Here, we propose an optimal method for quantifying the facial sebum level.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Four hundred and sixty participants (160 males and 300 females) aged 20-40 were enrolled in this study. A Sebumeter SM 810 was used to measure the sebum level at five facial locations: the forehead, the chin, the left cheek, the right cheek, and the nose. The participants were divided into two groups; one group underwent a one-time measurement (n = 390, male: female = 120: 270), and the other underwent three consecutive measurements (n = 70, male: female = 40: 30). The casual sebum level (CSL) was measured in all patients after a 30-min acclimatization; subsequently, the sebum removal process was conducted, followed by a resting period of 1 h to determine the sebum excretion rate (SER). Spearman's correlation analysis and the Wilcoxon signed-rank test were used to compare the sebum level consistency and differences between the groups.

RESULTS

Although three consecutive measurements better reflected the sebum content, the one-time measurement also represented the relative sebum level. One hour after sebum removal, the sebum level recovered to 70%-90%; thus, this method was applicable for use in SER quantification. Of the five testing points, the sebum content was highest in the nose and lowest in the cheeks (both left and right). In addition, the cheeks were the most stable sites in terms of testing points, testing times, and CSL/SER values. A one-time measurement of the CSL could represent the SER 1 h after the sebum removal. In our cohort, the sebum level of males with oily skin was decreased at age 32-35, and that of males with non-oily skin increased at 28-35. The opposite trend was observed in female participants.

CONCLUSION

Sebum measurement methods were assessed, including testing times, indices (interval of time) and sites in a conditioned external environment. A one-time measurement of the CSL 1 h after sebum removal was sufficient to determine the sebum level and SER, and the cheeks are recommended as the testing site. Sex and skin type differences were observed in sebum level changes with age.

Protective effects of a day/night dual-antioxidant serum on skin: A randomized, regimen-controlled study in Chinese women exposed to air pollution

BACKGROUND

Chronic exposure to air pollution can negatively affect skin health.

AIMS

To assess the efficacy of the LUMIVIVE^® System (LVS), a skincare system consisting of individual day and night serums, in Chinese women exposed to air pollution.

PATIENTS/METHODS

In this single-center, vehicle-controlled study, eligible females (mean age, 49.02 years) were randomized 1:1 to treatment group (LVS plus basic moisturizer) or control group (basic moisturizer). Skin color, sebum content, barrier function, elasticity, and texture were measured at baseline and at each follow-up visit (days 28, 56, and 84). Air pollution parameters were collected throughout the study.

RESULTS

Air pollution levels, including PM_2.5 and NO₂ , were consistently high during the study. The treatment group showed significantly higher skin color L* (p ≤ 0.0001) and lower a* values (p ≤ 0.05) at all follow-up visits compared with the control group, indicating lower skin pigmentation and redness, respectively. Skin color L* and a* values remained unchanged over time for the control group but were significantly different at all follow-up visits compared to baseline (p ≤ 0.0001 and p ≤ 0.05, respectively) for the treatment group. There was an increasing trend for sebum content in the control group, which was not observed in the treatment group. Both groups showed improvements over time in other skin physiology parameters.

CONCLUSIONS

The current analysis demonstrates the efficacy of LVS plus basic moisturizer compared with basic moisturizer alone to reduce skin pigmentation and redness, as well as to mitigate sebum production, in Chinese women exposed to air pollution.

Effect of oral administration of Triphala, a polyphenol-rich prebiotic, on scalp sebum in patients with scalp seborrhea a randomized clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Although there are various therapeutic options to control oily skin, they have potential side effects and limitations especially in long-term use. Pre/probiotics may have beneficial effects in atopic dermatitis' acne, dandruff, and seborrhea, demonstrated by some clinical trials. This trial conducted to determine whether the herbal prebiotic Triphala is effective in reducing scalp sebum secretion in patients with scalp seborrhea.

METHODS

In this 8 week patient and outcome assessor-blinded, placebo-controlled trial participants with scalp seborrhea aged 14-50 years were randomized to Triphala or placebo groups. 1 g of Triphala (standardized as 91.82 ± 0.5 mg gallic acid) or placebo (wheat flour) were administered BID. Scalp sebum levels were detected objectively using Sebumeter^® sm 815, and treatment satisfaction was measured using a score between 0 and 100. [Registration no. IRCT2014070218332N1].

RESULTS

Eighty patients completed the study (40 in Triphala group and 40 in placebo group). Participants in the Triphala group experienced 25.34 scores (95% CI, 0.39-50.29: p = .047) more improvement in scalp sebum levels compared with the placebo group. The mean percentage of patients' satisfaction was 37.91 (24.88) in the Triphala group and 17.89 (25.80) in the placebo group (p = .001).

CONCLUSION

Herbal prebiotic Triphala significantly reduced scalp sebum scores compared to placebo.

Skin-lightening practices behind the veil: An epidemiological study among Saudi women

BACKGROUND

Women are adopting skin-lightening practices worldwide in an attempt to enhance their skin tone. The reasons and beliefs behind such practices vary from culture to culture. Scarce data are available for this phenomenon among Saudi women. We carried out this study to determine the practices, reasons, and correlates of skin-lightening practices among women in the northern region of Saudi Arabia.

METHOD

Using nonprobability convenient sampling, an analytical cross-sectional study was carried out among women attending two multispecialty hospitals in the Al-Jouf region. A prevalidated, self-administered questionnaire containing 35 items about demographic characteristics, skin-lightening practices, knowledge of skin-lightening products (SLPs), reasons, and perceptions about lighter skin tone was used to collect data.

RESULTS

Among 605 sampled women, usage of skin-lightening practices was found in 382 participants (63.1%). All participants had relatively lighter skin. Skin type and education affected skin-lightening practices significantly (P values = 0.002 and 0.012, respectively). The prevalent reason for using SLPs was cosmetic (66%). One-third of users faced side effects from these products. The SLP users believed that lighter skin tone plays a role in self-esteem, perception of beauty, social class, marriage, and employment opportunities (P values < 0.01) as compared to nonusers. Media was found to influence the use of SLPs (P values < 0.001).

CONCLUSION

Skin-lightening practices are prevalent among Saudi women. Such practices are reinforced by a belief that fairer skin is associated with beauty, self-esteem, and financial and social advantages. A public health educational campaign is needed to decrease the usage of SLPs.

Anti-sebum efficacy of guava toner: A split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Guava has benefit phytochemicals that are important for skin-disorder treatment. Nevertheless, its efficacy against oily skin has never been reported.

AIMS

The guava toner was developed and clinical evaluated.

METHODS

The base toner was formulated, accelerated stability tested, and sensory-evaluated in 10 volunteers. The highest preference base was incorporated with guava extract, stability examined, and skin irritation assessed in 21 volunteers by a single application close patch test. Anti-sebum efficacy was split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled evaluated in 21 volunteers for 28 days and monitored by Sebutape^® on forehead and nose.

RESULTS

The stable toner base with the greatest preference (83.20 ± 1.85%) was incorporated with 3%, 4.5%, and 6% of guava extract. The toners were stable with none of skin irritation. The toner with 6% guava extract was selected for efficacy evaluation. Guava toner significantly reduced oiliness of forehead (13.10 ± 3.67%, P < 0.05) and nose (21.43 ± 3.21%, P < 0.001) better than the base toner. The activity on nose was significantly noted (10.72 ± 3.51%, P < 0.05) since the 3rd week of application.

CONCLUSIONS

Anti-sebum guava toner was efficiently evidence approved and suitable for a daily application to improve the efficacy.

Use of Advanced Imaging Techniques for the Characterization of Oily Skin

Excessively oily skin leads to clinical signs that cause discomfort to patients, such as excessive shine, enlarged pores, acne, and an imbalance of the hydrolipidic layer. In this context, a constant demand for the research and development of products that prevent these features, has been noted in the field of cosmetics and dermatology. Thus, the objective of this study is to evaluate the cutaneous characteristics of oily skin due an excessive production of sebum through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. 19 participants with different skin types were selected and the following parameters were evaluated: pore count, determination of the number of sebaceous glands and amount of sebum in infundibulum, determination of cutaneous microrelief, count of comedones, evaluation of epidermis thickness, characterization of the cellular, and comedone size and its characteristics. These evaluations were done through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The obtained results showed that different regions of the face presented different characteristics related to oiliness, quantity, and the appearance of pores and comedones. The malar region had a lower epidermis thickness and a larger number of large pores. Moreover, in this region excessive sebum production, which can be related to pores, not comedones, was noted. The nose region presented higher sebum content in the infundibulum and lower active sebaceous glands, showing a higher activity of sebaceous production in this region. The chin region presented a positive correlation between the sebum content, roughness parameter and the number of pores and comedones. As different skin properties are related and influence the appearance of undesirable clinical signs, we identified the need for a multifactorial approach for the effective treatment of oily skin. The rational development of multifunctional cosmetic products that promote the control of oily skin, that regulate the keratinization process, improve the microrelief and leads to a better epidermis and dermis structure, will not only improve oily skin conditions but will also allow for the reduction or disappearance of clinical signs that result from excessive oiliness, all of which causes concern and results in a relentless search for cosmetic and dermatological products that address the unaesthetic nature of these conditions.

Evaluation of Sebostatic Activity of Juniperus communis Fruit Oil and Pelargonium graveolens Oil Compared to Niacinamide

As a facial skin condition, oily skin causes cosmetic problems, such as large pores, shiny appearance, and the feeling of greasiness and heaviness. Furthermore, extensive sebum production leads to common skin disorders such as acne vulgaris or seborrheic dermatitis. This study investigated the efficacy of sebum control tonics containing Juniperus communis fruit oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, or niacinamide. The effects of Juniperus communis fruit oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, and niacinamide on sebum excretion rates were investigated using Sebumeter®. Sebum measurements (Sebumeter® SM 815, Courage & Khazaka®, Köln, Germany) were made on the skin surface in three places by applying the sebumeter probe to the forehead after 10, 60, and 120 min from application of the tonic. The results indicated that the application of the tonic maintained a lower sebum secretion 10 min and 60 min after the application of the cosmetic, compared to those before it. However, a visible sebum-reducing efficacy after 2 h was reported only for tonic containing 0.25% Pelargonium graveolens oil and for the tonic with the addition of 3% niacinamide. After 2 h, the values of sebum measurements were 44 ± 5.13 a.u. and 58 ± 9.07 a.u., respectively. Our results show that the tonic with the addition of 0.25% Pelargonium graveolens oil is the most effective in reducing sebum production.

Facial skin pigmentation is not related to stratum corneum cohesion, basal transepidermal water loss, barrier integrity and barrier repair

OBJECTIVE

Hypotheses have been developed for the evolutionary selection of skin pigmentation one of which relates to improved skin barrier function. The aim of this study was to compare facial skin condition on photoexposed (cheek) and photoprotected (post-auricular) sites of naturally pigmented subjects of different ethnicities (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II/III and V/VI) and Albino African subjects to understand better the relationship between facial stratum corneum (SC) barrier function, skin surface pH and skin pigmentation.

METHODS

Expert grading of skin conditions, capacitance, skin surface pH and skin barrier function measurements were performed. For the latter, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements before (basal TEWL), after 3, 6 and 9 consecutive tape strippings (SC integrity) and 3.5 and 24 h post tape stripping (barrier recovery) were taken. Amounts of SC protein removed during stripping were estimated using infrared densitometry (SC cohesion).

RESULTS

Firstly, correlation analysis of the biometric data of the Black African and Caucasian subjects showed there to be no relationship between skin surface pH and ITA° values nor pH and ITA° with basal TEWL. Neither skin surface pH nor ITA° correlated with SC integrity and barrier recovery measurements, but skin surface pH correlated with SC cohesion. ITA° values were correlated with skin hydration. Secondly, on comparing the three ethnic groups, severe skin photodamage was observed in the Albino African subjects and their SC was thicker. Whereas their basal TEWL was elevated, superior values for SC integrity and barrier recovery were measured. No differences in basal TEWL, SC integrity and barrier recovery were found between the other two subject groups. Equally, SC cohesion and skin surface pH values were similar among the three groups.

CONCLUSION

There was no relationship between ITA° values and basal TEWL, SC integrity, SC cohesion and barrier recovery, but ITA° was correlated with skin hydration. Skin surface pH, irrespective of ITA° values, correlated with SC cohesion, indicating a greater intracorneal cohesion at lower pH values. Thus, pigmentation has no effect on SC barrier properties but was related to skin hydration. On comparing the three ethnic groups, Albino African SC was found to be superior to the Caucasian and Black African subjects in terms of SC integrity and barrier recovery but not basal TEWL. The Albino African subjects also have a thicker SC which contributes to their better SC integrity. No differences in skin barrier functionality or skin surface pH were observed for the other two groups. Skin hydration was, however, greatest in the Black African subjects. Our data support the evolutionary hypothesis that pigmentation protects the skin from UV irradiation and thereby the skin barrier but not the skin pigmentation-/pH-driven adaptive skin barrier hypothesis.