Preliminary 1 month stability screening of cosmetic multiple emulsions (W/O/W) prepared using cetyl dimethicone copolyol and Polysorbate 80

Optimization and development of stable w/o/w cosmetic multiple emulsions by means of the Quality by Design approach

OBJECTIVES

The aim of our present work was to develop stable water-in-oil-in-water (w/o/w) cosmetic multiple emulsions that are proper for cosmetic use and can also be applied on the skin as pharmaceutical vehicles by means of Quality by Design (QbD) concept. This product design concept consists of a risk assessment step and also the 'predetermination' of the critical material attributes and process parameters of a stable multiple emulsion system. We have set up the hypothesis that the stability of multiple emulsions can be improved by the development based on such systematic planning - making a map of critical product parameters - so their industrial usage can be increased.

METHODS

The risk assessment and the determination of critical physical-chemical stability parameters of w/o/w multiple emulsions to define critical control points were performed by means of quality tools and the leanqbd(™) (QbD Works LLC, Fremont, CA, U.S.A.) software.

RESULTS

Critical materials and process parameters: Based on the results of preformulation experiments, three factors, namely entrapped active agent, preparation methodology and shear rate, were found to be highly critical factors for critical quality attributes (CQAs) and for stability, whereas the nature of oil was found a medium level risk factor. The results of the risk assessment are the following: (i) droplet structure and size distribution should be evaluated together to be able to predict the stability issues, (ii) the presence of entrapped active agents had a great impact on droplet structure, (iii) the viscosity curves represent the structural changes during storage, if the decrease in relative viscosity is >15% the emulsion disintegrates, and (iv) it is enough to use the shear rate between 34g and 116g relative centrifugal force (RCF). CQAs: By risk assessment, we discovered that four factors should be considered to be high-risk variables as compared to others: droplet size, droplet structure, viscosity and multiple character were found to be highly critical attributes.

CONCLUSION

The preformulation experiment is the part of a development plan. On the basis of these results, the control strategy can be defined and a stable multiple emulsion can be ensured that meets the relevant stakeholders' quality expectations.

Rosmarinus officinalis L. extract and some of its active ingredients as potential emulsion stabilizers: a new approach to the formation of multiple (W/O/W) emulsion

Nowadays, novel topical formulations loaded with natural functional actives are under intense investigations. Therefore, the aim of our study was to evaluate how the rosemary extract and some of its active ingredients [rosmarinic acid (RA), ursolic acid (UA) and oleanolic acid (OA)] affect technological characteristics of multiple emulsion. Formulation has been prepared by adding investigated solutions (10%) in water/oil/water (W/O/W) multiple emulsion consisting of different lipophilic phases: olive oil and liquid paraffin, with 0.5% emulsifying agent (complex of sodium polyacrylate and polysorbate 20) under constant stirring with mechanical stirrer at room temperature. The emulsion parameters were evaluated using centrifugation test, freeze-thaw cycle test, microscopical and texture analyses. Rosemary's triterpenic saponins UA and OA showed the highest emulsion stabilizing properties: they decreased CI from 3.26% to 10.23% (p < 0.05). According to obtained interfacial tension data, the effect of rosemary active ingredients is not surfactant-like. Even though emulsifier itself at low concentration intends to form directly the multiple emulsion, the obtained results indicate that rosemary extract containing active ingredients does not only serve as functional cosmetic agent due to a number of biological activities, but also offer potential advantages as a stabilizer and an enhancer of W/O/W emulsions formation for dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations.