Brief analysis of causes of sensitive skin and advances in evaluation of anti-allergic activity of cosmetic products

Targeted screening of multiple anti-inflammatory components from Chrysanthemi indici Flos by ligand fishing with affinity UF-LC/MS

Chrysanthemi indic Flos (CIF) has been commonly consumed for the treatment of inflammation and related skin diseases. However, the potential bioactive components responsible for its anti-inflammatory and sensitive skin (SS) improvement activities, and the correlated mechanisms of action still remain unknown. In this work, it was firstly found that the CIF extract (CIFE) displayed arrestive free radical scavenging activity on DPPH and ABTS radicals, with no significant difference with positive control Trolox (p > 0.05). Then, compared to the negative group, CIFE markedly decreased the productions of the pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, PEG2, TNF-α, IFN-γ, NO) in LPS induced RAW264.7 cells in a dose-dependent manner (p < 0.01). Besides, CIFE strongly inhibited the COX-2 and hyaluronidase (HAase) with the IC50 values of 1.06 ± 0.01 μg/mL and 12.22 ± 0.39 μg/mL, indicating higher inhibitory effect than positive control of aspirin of 6.33 ± 0.05 μg/mL (p < 0.01), and comparable inhibitory effect with indometacin of 0.60 ± 0.03 μg/mL, and ascorbic acid of 11.03 ± 0.41 μg/mL (p > 0.05), respectively. Furthermore, kinetic assays with Lineweaver-Burk plot (Michaelis Menten equation) suggested that CIFE reversibly inhibited the COX-2 and HAase, with a mixed characteristics of competitive and non-competitive inhibition. Thereafter, multi-target affinity ultrafiltration liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (UF-LC/MS) method was employed to fast fish out the potential COX-2 and HAase in CIFE. Herein, 13 components showed various affinity binding degrees to the COX-2 and HAase, while those components with relative binding affinity (RBA) value higher than 3.0, such as linarin and chlorogenic acid isomers, were deemed to be the most bioactive components for the anti-inflammatory and SS improvement activities of CIFE. Finally, the interaction mechanism, including binding energy, inhibition constant, docking sites, and the key amino acids involved in hydrogen bonds between the potential ligands and COX-2/HAase were simulated and confirmed with the molecule docking analysis. In summary, this study showcased the prominent anti-inflammatory and SS improvement activities of CIF, which would provide further insights on this functional medicinal plant to be a natural anti-SS remedy.

Effects of a Postbiotic Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus Ferment Complex on the Scalp Microbiome of Chinese Women with Sensitive Scalp Syndrome

Introduction

Sensitive scalp is one of the most frequent complaints related to sensitive skin syndrome, characterized by unpleasant sensory reactions in the absence of visible signs of inflammation. In this study, the effects of topical application of postbiotic Himalaya-derived Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus ferment complex (SLFC) on the bacterial and fungal scalp microbiome at the taxonomic level and alleviation of sensitive skin syndrome were investigated.

Methods

Firstly, healthy female participants (aged 30-45) were classified into a healthy scalp group and a sensitive scalp group based on the questionnaire. Thereafter, topical application of SLFC on sensitive scalp as well as scalp microbiome was evaluated, with the difference in the distribution of microbial taxa between healthy and sensitive scalp communities was assessed using 16S rRNA and ITS1 sequencing analysis. In addition, the effect of SLFC on scalp microbiome at the species level for Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Malassezia restricta was evaluated by the qPCR assessment.

Results

After treatment with SLFC for 28 days, the abundance of Staphylococcus, Lawsonella, and Fusarium in the sensitive scalp group was highly significantly increased (p < 0.001), while the abundance of Cutibacterium and Malassezia was highly significantly decreased (p < 0.001). Furthermore, the self-assessment questionnaire indicated a syndrome alleviation effect of 100% after 28 days with a twice-daily application of the SLFC.

Discussion

The obtained results would help to better understand the microbial community of the sensitive scalp and provide useful information on utilization of SLFC for maintaining a healthy scalp and modulating the scalp microbiome.

Systematic Study of Paeonol/Madecassoside Co-Delivery Nanoemulsion Transdermal Delivery System for Enhancing Barrier Repair and Anti-Inflammatory Efficacy

Sensitive skin is defined as skin with low tolerance and high reactivity. Natural products, such as paeoniflorin and madecassoside, have unique skin care functionality. However, because they are hampered by the skin barrier, paeoniflorin and madecassoside have difficulty penetrating the stratum corneum, resulting in weakened skin barrier repair and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, there is a lack of detailed studies on the efficacy of paeonol and madecassic in human skin, especially in 3D skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we developed nanoemulsions (PM-NEs) loaded with paeonol and madecassoside to improve their delivery efficiency and promote sensitive skin repair and anti-inflammation effects. Furthermore, systematic evaluations of the efficacy in cell line models, 3D skin models, and clinical trials were conducted. The PM-NEs effectively improved the efficacy of paeonol and madecassoside glucoside transdermal penetration and retention and enhanced cellular uptake. Cellular assays and 3D epidermal models showed that the PM-NEs significantly promoted the secretion of filamentous protein, aquaporin 3, Claudin-1, and hyaluronic acid, and considerably inhibited the secretion of interleukin 1α, interleukin 6, tumor necrosis factor-α, and prostaglandin E₂ compared to free components. Notably, clinical trial data showed that the PM-NEs significantly reduced transepidermal water loss, a* values, erythropoietin, the amount of non-inflammatory acne, and the amount of inflammatory acne in the facial skin. Three levels of systematic studies suggest that co-delivery of paeoniflorin and madecassoside via nanoemulsions is a promising strategy to improve topical delivery efficiency and anti-inflammatory repair efficacy in sensitive skin.

Can Performance and Gentleness Be Reconciled? A Skin Care Approach for Sensitive Skin

People with self-reported sensitive skin may reluctantly use performing anti-ageing skin care products as it could elicit skin discomfort. We thus aimed to design and test an anti-ageing skin care routine that is suitable for people reporting sensitive skin. Key principles for developing products for sensitive skin were applied and formulas were screened for their mildness in vitro using the Reconstructed Human Epidermis ET50 method. Anti-ageing efficacy and mildness was evaluated during a clinical study in China, with 33 female volunteers aged 40–65 years, with sensitive skin. The anti-ageing benefits were measured using Primos 3D, the cutometer and clinical evaluation. Hallmarks for sensitive skin such as skin hydration, skin barrier, skin redness and response to lactic acid were also measured. The ET50 method yielded values suggesting moderate to mild expected irritancy effect in vivo for most of them, and non-irritating effect for the serum. During the clinical study, no physical or functional signs of discomfort were reported with twice-daily usage of the routine. Instrumental evaluation of Wrinkle depth, skin elasticity/firmness, skin hydration, skin barrier and skin redness revealed improvement at 4 and 8 weeks. Clinical evaluation evidenced skin smoothness, skin suppleness and radiance improvements. The skin was less reactive to lactic acid stimuli, while the sensitive skin burden was lowered according to the dermatological quality of life index. Lastly, a separate investigation suggested the potential relief aspect of such routines to alleviate discomforts from mask wearing. With the right formulation design, the benefits of layering products from a routine can be made accessible to people with sensitive skin while simultaneously alleviating the burden of sensitive skin.

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

OBJECTIVE

Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.

METHODS

A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.

CONCLUSION

This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

Online comment-based prediction of cosmetic ingredient's sensory irritation using gradient boosting algorithm

BACKGROUND

The worldwide prevalence of "sensitive skin" group is estimated at being close to 40%. The main trigger for sensitive skin is the misuse of cosmetics products. Majority of the in vitro studies on cosmetic ingredients developed for topical application to the skin are not able to describe sensory irritation, such as stinging, burning, itching, and tingling. Besides, most of the in vivo tests often encounter problems such as limited number of subjects and usage scenarios deviate from reality.

OBJECTIVE

A gradient boosting algorithm is adopted in our context to integrate multisource of information including skin types, sensory response, and cosmetics ingredients to predict sensory irritation.

METHOD

In this study, online comments were preprocessed to construct a multi-dimensional structured data including skin types, sensory response, and cosmetics ingredients. A gradient boosting regression model was developed where sensory response was predicted based on the abovementioned structured input. The predictions were validated by in vivo test and were shown favorably when comparing with the state-of-the-art results from related works.

RESULT

46 007 samples were collected after data cleaning and were used in model developing. Results showed that the model was capable to predict the sensory response of 16 skin types to different ingredients (R = 0.71, P < 10^-10 ). In addition, this model was validated using data from in vivo studies and presented a value of 75% on specificity, 88.9% on sensitivity, and 82.4% on accuracy.

CONCLUSION

Our approach that is based on a variant of the gradient boosting algorithm provided an adequate solution for understanding the sensory irritation of cosmetic ingredients.

Association between lactic acid sting test scores, self-assessed sensitive skin scores and biophysical properties in Chinese females

Background

Lactic acid sting test (LAST) is a classical method to identify sensitive skin. However, some subjects with self‐perceived sensitive skin are negative for LAST.

Objective

To determine whether LAST scores are associated with specific phenotype of sensitive skin.

Methods

A total of 292 subjects with self‐perceived sensitive skin were enrolled in this study. The Sensitive Scale was used to evaluate the severity of burning, stinging, itching, tautness, erythema and scaling based on 0–10 scale scores. In addition to the assessment of LAST scores, epidermal biophysical properties were measured using an MPA system.

Results

The Sensitive Scale scores of stinging, itching, tautness and scaling were significantly different between the LAST‐positive and ‐negative groups. However, burning and erythema scores did not differ between the LAST‐positive and ‐negative groups. LAST scores were positively correlated with the Sensitive Scale scores for stinging, itching, tautness and scaling, but not for burning and erythema scores. Moreover, LAST scores negatively correlated with stratum corneum hydration, but positively with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) rates.

Conclusions

Lactic acid sting test scores positively correlated with TEWL rates. LAST scores could be used to identify subjects with sensitive skin characterized mainly by stinging and itching, but not those mainly by burning and erythema.

Characterization of circadian human facial surface lipid composition

BACKGROUND

The circadian rhythm is an endogenous clock that governs a wide range of physiological functions. In the skin, rhythmic changes in skin barrier function have been investigated at the physiological level; however, few studies at the molecular level have been reported. Additionally, there is no study on lipidomic profile variations of skin surface lipid (SSL), which could potentially explain the rhythmic changes in skin status.

OBJECTIVES

The SSL profile of healthy young women was analysed to assess SSL variations and to assess the skin status during the circadian cycle.

METHODS

Ultra performance liquid chromatography/quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry and multivariate data analysis were performed to assess SSL variations.

RESULTS

The lipidomic profile showed significant differences with the circadian rhythm. Multivariate data analysis indicated that glycerolipids were the lipids majorly affected by the circadian rhythm. Additionally, in the SSL profile, both the average chain length and the content of free fatty acids (FFAs) were higher at 20:00 than at 08:00.

CONCLUSIONS

The SSL profile significantly varied with respect to the circadian rhythm. The rhythm-altered triacylglycerol level, FFA chain length and FFA content resulted in rhythmic changes in skin barrier function, including transepidermal water loss alteration and pH variation.

Analysis of sensitive skin barrier function: basic indicators and sebum composition

OBJECTIVES

Sensitive skin (SS) is a condition characterised by high reactivity, low tolerance, and susceptibility to allergies of the skin. Owing to changes in the environment and marketing strategies, as well as the increasing public awareness about skin care, attention to skin condition is gradually increasing. The aim of this study is to explore the differences in the skin barrier of SS and normal skin (NS).

METHODS

A questionnaire survey was conducted and basic indicators of the skin barrier were analysed. It was found that sebum secretion in the SS group was lower than that in the NS group, suggesting that the development of SS might be associated with sebum secretion and its specific components. Next, an ultra performance liquid chromatography-quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometer was used to identify facial sebum components in female volunteers.

RESULTS

The results showed that the sebum of female volunteers with SS had high levels of ceramides, glycerophosphoethanolamines, and diacylglycerols, and low levels of glucosylceramides, glycerophosphoserines, glycerophosphocholines, and triacylglycerols.

CONCLUSION

Analysis of lipid functions suggested that the main reason for SS development in women might be a barrier dysfunction caused by excessive apoptosis and lack of water. Therefore, anti-allergy additives in cosmetic products that could inhibit apoptosis of keratinocytes and methods to maintain the stability of water molecules in the skin should be further studied.

Application of lipidomics to reveal differences in facial skin surface lipids between males and females

PURPOSE

To analyze and compare differences in facial skin surface lipids (SSL) between 18- to 25-year-old males and females.

METHODS

Ultra-performance liquid chromatography quadrupole time of flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-Q-TOF-MS) technology was used to measure the facial SSL composition of 18- to 25-year-old males and females. Measurement results were combined with the orthogonal projections to latent structures discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA) model for analysis and comparisons, and differences in lipids with significance were selected.

RESULTS

There were significant differences in facial SSL composition between 18- to 25-year-old males and females. Under selected conditions, 37 types of lipids with significant differences were obtained (P ≤ .05). All of them had higher content in females, and primarily included ceramides (Cers), glucosylceramide (GlcCer), phosphatidylserine (PS), phosphatidylcholine (PC), and others.

CONCLUSIONS

There are significant differences in facial SSL between 18- to 25-year-old males and females.

The mechanism of skin lipids influencing skin status

Skin lipids, compose of sebocyte-, keratinocyte-, and microbe- derived lipids, dramatically influence skin status by different mechanisms. (I) Physical chemistry function: They are "mortar" to establish the physico-chemical barrier function of skin; (II) Biochemistry function: They function as signals in the complex signaling network originating at the epidermal level; (III) Microecology function: Sebocyte- and keratinocyte-derived lipids vary the composition of microbial skin flora, and microorganisms metabolize them to produce lipids as signal starting signaling transduction. Importantly, further research needs lipidiomics, more powerful analytical ability and high-throughput manner, to identify skin lipid components into individual species. The validation of lipid structure and function to research the process that lipid species involved in. Additional, the integration of lipidomics data with other omics strategies can develop the power to study the mechanism of skin lipids influencing skin status.