The diversity of the human hair colour assessed by visual scales and instrumental measurements. A worldwide survey

How different is human hair? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification

This review critically appraises the reported differences in human hair fibre within three related domains of research: hair classification approaches, fibre characteristics and properties. The most common hair classification approach is based on geo-racial origin, defining three main groups: African, Asian and Caucasian hair. This classification does not account sufficiently for the worldwide hair diversity and intergroups variability in curl, shape, size and colour. A global classification into eight curl types has been proposed but may be too complex for reproducibility. Beyond that, hair cross-sectional shape and area have been found to have an inverse relation to curl: straighter fibres are circular with larger cross-sectional area, whilst the curlier fibres are elliptical with smaller cross-sectional area. These geometrical differences have been associated with bilateral vs homogenous distribution of cortical cell in curly vs straight hair respectively. However, there is no sufficient data demonstrating significant differences in hair amino composition, but proteomic studies are reporting associations of some proteins with curly hair. Eumelanin's relative abundance has been reported in all hair colours except for red hair which has a high pheomelanin content. Higher tensile and fatigue strength of straight hair are reported, however, curly hair fragility is attributed to knotting, and crack and flow formations rather than the structural variations. African hair has been found to have the highest level of lipids, whilst the water sorption of Caucasian hair is the highest, and that of Asian hair the lowest. Not all comparative studies clearly report their hair sampling approaches. Therefore, to strengthen the robustness of comparative studies and to facilitate cross-study data comparisons, it is recommended that the following hair defining characteristics are reported in studies: hair cross sectional diameter/area, curl type, hair assembly colour, as well as where possible donor data (age/gender) and sample pooling approach.

Virtual approach of the aesthetical fit between hair colours and skin tones in women of different ethnical origin backgrounds

OBJECTIVE

To determine the aesthetical accordance between a given skin tone and the 11 possible colours of head hairs, covered by a marketed hair colouration product.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The photographs of professional top models, representing several ancestries (non-Hispanic European and Euro-American, East Asian, Hispanic Euro-American, and African-American ancestries), were used to virtually modify skin tones (from light, medium to dark) and hair colour by an artificial intelligence (AI)-based algorithm. Hence, 117 modified photographs were then assessed by five local panels of about 60 women each (one in China, one in France and three in US). The same questionnaire was given to the panels, written in their own language, asking which and how both skin tones and hair colours fit preferentially (or not appreciated), asking in addition the reasons of their choices, using fixed wordings.

RESULTS

Answers from the five panels differed according to origin or cultural aspects, although some agreements were found among both non-Hispanic European and Euro-American groups. The Hispanic American panel in US globally much appreciated darker hair tones (HTs). Two panels (East Asian in China and African American in US) and part of non-Hispanic European panel in France declared appreciating all HTs, almost irrespective with the skin tone (light, medium and dark). This surprising result is very likely caused by gradings (in %) that differ by too low values, making the establishment of a decisive or significant assessment. By nature highly subjective (culturally and/or fashion driven), the assessments should be more viewed as trends, an unavoidable limit of the present virtual approach. The latter offers nevertheless a full respect of ethical rules as such objective could hardly be conducted in vivo: applying 10 or 11 hair colourations on the same individual is an unthinkable option.

CONCLUSION

The virtual approach developed in the present study that mixes two major facial coloured phenotypes seems at the crossroad of both genetic backgrounds and the secular desire of a modified appearance. Nonetheless, this methodology could afford, at the individual level in total confidentiality, a great help to subjects exposed to some facial skin disorders or afflictions.

Interrelationships between Skin Structure, Function, and Microbiome of Pregnant Females and Their Newborns: Study Protocol for a Prospective Cohort Study

Background

Pregnancy leads to several skin changes, but evidence about structural and functional skin changes is scarce. Findings on skin structure and function in children in their first year reveal rapid skin maturation, but evidence indicates that in particular, water holding and transport mechanisms are different from adults. Important questions include whether maternal cutaneous properties predict infant skin condition, and if so, how. This is especially relevant for the skin's microbiome because it closely interacts with the host and is assumed to play a role in many skin diseases. Therefore, the study objective is to explore characteristics of skin and hair of pregnant women and their newborns during pregnancy and in the first six months after delivery and their associations.

Methods

The study has an observational longitudinal design. We are recruiting pregnant females between 18 and 45 years using advertisement campaigns in waiting areas of gynecologists and hospital's outpatient services. A final sample size of n = 100 women is the target. We perform noninvasive, standardized skin, hair, and skin microbiome measurements. We establish the baseline visit during pregnancy until at the latest four weeks before delivery. We schedule follow-up visits four weeks and six months after birth for mothers and their newborns. We will calculate descriptive statistical methods using frequencies and associations over time depending on scale levels of the measurements. Discussion. The majority of previous studies that have investigated infants' skin microbiome and its associations used cross-sectional designs and focused on selected characteristics in small samples. In our longitudinal study, we will characterize a broad range of individual and environmental characteristics of mothers and their newborns to evaluate interrelationships with skin parameters and their changes over time. Considering the combination of these multiple variables and levels will allow for a deeper understanding of the complex interrelationship of the newborn's skin maturation. This trial is registered with ClinicalTrials.gov (Identifier: NCT04759924).

Unique Hair Properties that Emerge from Combinations of Multiple Races

The fusion of ethnicity in human populations is becoming increasingly common, so the conventional definition of ethnicity is going to become deficient. The aim of this study was to investigate the hair properties which emerge from combinations of multiple races. Hair fibers collected from mixed-race subjects were investigated and classifications of hair shape as well as measurements of thickness, ellipticity and surface damage were carried out. The results show that hair shapes varied widely: straight hair and very curly hair often existed together on the heads of individuals with mixed ethnicity. Curly hair tended to be thicker than loose wavy hair. As for damage to the hair surface, the hairs of mixed-race subjects showed a very unique property in that they were much more severely damaged near the root (the proximal end) than the hairs of monoracial subjects. The hair shape (curly or loose wavy) was not related to the level of damage. The severe damage near the proximal end is thought to be caused by entanglement, due to the presence of various curl phases. This study reports the unique characteristics of hairs of subjects with mixed ethnicity, which have never been noted in the previous studies on subjects with a monoracial background.