Homogeneous distribution of fatty ester-based active cosmetic ingredients in hydrophilic thin films by means of nanodispersion

Gelatin Methacryloyl (GelMA)-Based Biomaterial Inks: Process Science for 3D/4D Printing and Current Status

Tissue engineering for injured tissue replacement and regeneration has been a subject of investigation over the last 30 years, and there has been considerable interest in using additive manufacturing to achieve these goals. Despite such efforts, many key questions remain unanswered, particularly in the area of biomaterial selection for these applications as well as quantitative understanding of the process science. The strategic utilization of biological macromolecules provides a versatile approach to meet diverse requirements in 3D printing, such as printability, buildability, and biocompatibility. These molecules play a pivotal role in both physical and chemical cross-linking processes throughout the biofabrication, contributing significantly to the overall success of the 3D printing process. Among the several bioprintable materials, gelatin methacryloyl (GelMA) has been widely utilized for diverse tissue engineering applications, with some degree of success. In this context, this review will discuss the key bioengineering approaches to identify the gelation and cross-linking strategies that are appropriate to control the rheology, printability, and buildability of biomaterial inks. This review will focus on the GelMA as the structural (scaffold) biomaterial for different tissues and as a potential carrier vehicle for the transport of living cells as well as their maintenance and viability in the physiological system. Recognizing the importance of printability toward shape fidelity and biophysical properties, a major focus in this review has been to discuss the qualitative and quantitative impact of the key factors, including microrheological, viscoelastic, gelation, shear thinning properties of biomaterial inks, and printing parameters, in particular, reference to 3D extrusion printing of GelMA-based biomaterial inks. Specifically, we emphasize the different possibilities to regulate mechanical, swelling, biodegradation, and cellular functionalities of GelMA-based bio(material) inks, by hybridization techniques, including different synthetic and natural biopolymers, inorganic nanofillers, and microcarriers. At the close, the potential possibility of the integration of experimental data sets and artificial intelligence/machine learning approaches is emphasized to predict the printability, shape fidelity, or biophysical properties of GelMA bio(material) inks for clinically relevant tissues.

Encapsulation of Vitamin C by Glycerol-Derived Dendrimers, Their Interaction with Biomimetic Models of Stratum corneum and Their Cytotoxicity

Vitamin C is one of the most sensitive cosmetic active ingredients. To avoid its degradation, its encapsulation into biobased carriers such as dendrimers is one alternative of interest. In this work, we wanted to evaluate the potential of two biobased glycerodendrimer families (GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(AmidoAmine) (GD-PAMAMs) or GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(Propylene Imine) (GD-PPIs)) as a vitamin C carrier for topical application. The higher encapsulation capacity of GD-PAMAM-3 compared to commercial PAMAM-3 and different GD-PPIs, and its absence of cytotoxicity towards dermal cells, make it a good candidate. Investigation of its mechanism of action was done by using two kinds of biomimetic models of stratum corneum (SC), lipid monolayers and liposomes. GD-PAMAM-3 and VitC@GD-PAMAM-3 (GD-PAMAM-3 with encapsulated vitamin C) can both interact with the lipid representatives of the SC lipid matrix, whichever pH is considered. However, only pH 5.0 is suggested to be favorable to release vitamin C into the SC matrix. Their binding to SC-biomimetic liposomes revealed only a slight effect on membrane permeability in accordance with the absence of cytotoxicity but an increase in membrane rigidity, suggesting a reinforcement of the SC barrier property. Globally, our results suggest that the dendrimer GD-PAMAM-3 could be an efficient carrier for cosmetic applications.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Adsorption of Cationic Contaminants by Cyclodextrin Nanosponges Cross-Linked with 1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic Acid and Poly(vinyl alcohol)

Cationic organic pollutants (dyes and pesticides) are mainly hydrosoluble and easily contaminate water and create a serious problem for biotic and abiotic species. The elimination of these dangerous contaminants from water was accomplished by adsorption using cyclodextrin nanosponges. These nanosponges were elaborated by the cross-linking between 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid and β-cyclodextrin in the presence of poly(vinyl alcohol). Their physicochemical characteristics were characterized by gravimetry, acid-base titration, TGA, 13C NMR, ATR-FTIR, Raman, X-ray diffraction, and Stereomicroscopy. The BP5 nanosponges displayed 68.4% yield, 3.31 mmol/g COOH groups, 0.16 mmol/g β-CD content, 54.2% swelling, 97.0% PQ removal, 96.7% SO removal, and 98.3% MG removal for 25 mg/L of initial concentration. The pseudo-second-order model was suitable for kinetics using 180 min of contact time. Langmuir isotherm was suitable for isotherm with the maximum adsorption of 120.5, 92.6, and 64.9 mg/g for paraquat (PQ), safranin (SO), and malachite green (MG) adsorption, respectively. Finally, the reusability performance after five regeneration times reached 94.1%, 91.6%, and 94.6% for PQ, SO, and MG adsorption, respectively.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopic Imaging for Evaluation of Distribution of Nano-Formulated Hydrophobic Active Cosmetic Ingredients in Hydrophilic Films

Film-forming systems are highly relevant to the topical administration of active ingredients (AI) to the body. Enhanced contact with the skin can increase the efficacy of delivery and penetration during prolonged exposure. However, after the evaporation of volatile solvents to form a thin film, the distribution of the ingredient should remain homogenous in order to ensure the effectiveness of the formula. This is especially critical for the use of hydrophobic molecules that have poor solubility in hydrophilic films. In order to address this concern, hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) of Punica granatum seed oil were prepared as a nanosuspension stabilised by poloxamers (NanoPHE). NanoPHE was then added to a formulation containing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as a film forming agent, Glycerol as a plasticiser and an antimicrobial agent, SepicideTM HB. Despite their reliability, reference methods such as high-performance liquid chromatography are increasingly challenged due to the need for consumables and solvents, which is contrary to current concerns about green industry in the cosmetics field. Moreover, such methods fail to provide spatially resolved chemical information. In order to investigate the distribution of ingredients in the dried film, Confocal Raman imaging (CRI) coupled to Non-negatively Constrained Least Squares (NCLS) analysis was used. The reconstructed heat maps from a range of films containing systematically varying PHE concentrations highlighted the changes in spectral contribution from each of the ingredients. First, using NCLS scores it was demonstrated that the distributions of PVA, Glycerol, SepicideTM HB and PHE were homogenous, with respective relative standard deviations (RSD) of 3.33%, 2.48%, 2.72% and 6.27%. Second, the respective relationships between ingredient concentrations in the films and their Raman responses, and the spectral abundance were established. Finally, a model for absolute quantification for PHE was be constructed using the percentage of spectral abundance. The prepared %w/w concentrations regressed against predicted %w/w concentrations, displaying high correlation (R2 = 0.995), while the Root Mean Squared Error (0.0869% w/w PHE) confirmed the precision of the analysis. The mean percent relative error of 3.75% indicates the accuracy to which the concentration in dried films could be determined, further supporting the suitability of CRI for analysis of composite solid film matrix. Ultimately, it was demonstrated that nanoformulation of hydrophobic PHE provides homogenous distribution in PVA based film-forming systems independent of the concentration of NanoPHE used in the formula.

Adsorption of Paraquat by Poly(Vinyl Alcohol)-Cyclodextrin Nanosponges

The contamination of hydrosoluble pesticides in water could generate a serious problem for biotic and abiotic components. The removal of a hazardous agrochemical (paraquat) from water was achieved by adsorption processes using poly(vinyl alcohol)-cyclodextrin nanosponges, which were prepared with various formulations via the crosslinking between citric acid and β-cyclodextrin in the presence of poly(vinyl alcohol). The physicochemical properties of nanosponges were also characterized by different techniques, such as gravimetry, thermogravimetry, microscopy (SEM and Stereo), spectroscopy (UV-visible, NMR, ATR-FTIR, and Raman), acid-base titration, BET surface area analysis, X-ray diffraction, and ion exchange capacity. The C10D-P2 nanosponges displayed 60.2% yield, 3.14 mmol/g COOH groups, 0.335 mmol/g β-CD content, 96.4% swelling, 94.5% paraquat removal, 0.1766 m2 g-1 specific surface area, and 5.2 × 10-4 cm3 g-1 pore volume. The presence of particular peaks referring to specific functional groups on spectroscopic spectra confirmed the successful polycondensation on the reticulated nanosponges. The pseudo second-order model (with R2 = 0.9998) and Langmuir isotherm (with R2 = 0.9979) was suitable for kinetics and isotherm using 180 min of contact time and a pH of 6.5. The maximum adsorption capacity was calculated at 112.2 mg/g. Finally, the recyclability of these nanosponges was 90.3% of paraquat removal after five regeneration times.

Identification of Tyrosyl Oleate as a Novel Olive Oil Lipophenol with Proliferative and Antioxidant Properties in Human Keratinocytes

Lipophenols are an emerging subclass of phenolic compounds characterized by the presence of a lipid moiety. Recently, hydroxytyrosyl oleate (HtyOle), a derivative of hydroxytyrosol, has been identified in olive oil and by-products. Furthermore, HtyOle possesses anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and tissue regenerating properties. In this work, the potential occurrence of tyrosyl oleate (TyOle) in olive oil was investigated based on the hypothesis that its precursors tyrosol and oleic acid, both present in relatively high amount can be coupled together. Moreover, TyOle effects have been investigated in human keratinocytes to verify its proliferative and antioxidant properties. The quantitative determination of TyOle was carried out by the external standard method in liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (LC/MS), in negative mode using multiple reaction monitoring (MRM). The proliferative properties of TyOle on immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCat) were evaluated by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiasol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. Morphological changes were observed by fluorescent staining with phalloidin (for F-actin) or 4,6-diamidino-2-phenylindole (DAPI, for chromatin) dye. The antioxidant activity was assessed at the level of production of mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced with UV exposure. TyOle was identified in all the oil samples investigated. Interestingly, TyOle concentration was higher in defective or low-quality oils than in extra virgin oils. The formation of TyOle likely occurs during the crushing and kneading processes and its concentration is related to the increase of rancidity and of the concentration of free precursors. Herein we show that TyOle induced an increase in the viability of HaCat cells and cytoskeletal remodeling.