Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin - Contribution of glycolic acid

Structural and functional imaging of psoriasis for severity assessment and quantitative monitoring of treatment response using high-resolution optoacoustic imaging

Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease, characterized by thick scaly plaques. It imposes a notable disease burden with varying levels of severity affecting the quality of life significantly. Current disease severity assessment relies on semi-objective visual inspection based on the Psoriasis Area and Severity index (PASI) score that might not be sensitive to sub-clinical changes. Histology of psoriasis skin lesions necessitate invasive skin biopsies. This indicates an unmet need for a non-invasive, objective and quantitative approach to assess disease severity serially. Herein, we employ multispectral Raster-Scanning Optoacoustic Mesoscopy (ms-RSOM) derived structural and microvascular functional imaging metrics to examine the lesional and non-lesional skin in psoriasis subjects across different severities and also evaluate the treatment outcome in a subject with topical steroids and biologics, such as adalimumab. ms-RSOM derived structural metrics like epidermal thickness and total blood volume (TBV) and microvascular functional information such as oxygen saturation (sO2) are evaluated by spectrally resolving the endogenous chromophores like melanin, oxy-, and deoxy-hemoglobin. Initial findings reveal an elevated sO2 and TBV with severity in lesional and non-lesional psoriasis skin, thus representing increasing inflammation. An increase in epidermal thickness is also noted with the degree of severity, corresponding to the inflammation and increased abnormal cell growth. As a marker to evaluate the treatment response, we observed a decrease in epidermal thickness, sO2, and TBV in a psoriasis patient post-treatment, which is consistent with the decrease in the PASI score from 4.1 to 1.9. We envision that ms-RSOM has a huge potential to be translated into routine clinical setting for the diagnosis of severity and assessment of treatment monitoring in psoriasis subjects.

Chitosan-Glycolic Acid Gel Modification of Chloride Ion Transport in Mammalian Skin: An In Vitro Study

Chitosan, a polyaminosaccharide with high medical and cosmetic potential, can be combined with the beneficial properties of glycolic acid to form a gel that not only moisturizes the skin, but also has a regenerative effect. Its involvement in the activation of biochemical processes may be associated with the activity of skin ion channels. Therefore, the aim of the research was to evaluate the immediate (15 s) and long-term (24 h) effect of chitosan-glycolic acid gel (CGG) on the transepithelial electric potential and the transepithelial electric resistance (R) of skin specimens tested in vitro. Stimulation during immediate and prolonged application of CGG to skin specimens resulted in a significant decrease in the measured minimal transepithelial electric potential (PDmin). The absence of any change in the R after the CGG application indicates that it does not affect the skin transmission, or cause distortion, microdamage or changes in ion permeability. However, the reduction in potential may be due to the increased transport of chloride ions, and thus water, from outside the cell into the cell interior. Increased secretion of chloride ions is achieved by stimulating the action of the CFTR (cystic fibrosis transmembrane conductance). It can be assumed that chitosan gently stimulates the secretion of chlorides, while maintaining a tendency to reduce the transport of sodium ions, without causing deformation or tissue damage.

Are cosmetics based on alpha hydroxy acids safe to use when purchased over the internet?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used in dermatology for topical treatment of skin disorders. Some regulatory bodies, including Food and Drug Administration (FDA), recommended labeling cosmetic products with sunburn alerts and proposed limitations regarding concentrations of AHAs in cosmetic products. In addition, The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel recommended 10% of AHAs in products as the maximal safe concentration. With a rapidly increasing trend of online purchasing of cosmetic products, it is important that their labels convey the necessary warnings and that they be harmonized with regulatory bodies regarding the recommended concentrations of AHAs. The aim of this report was to investigate whether or not the sunburn alert, as well as AHA recommendations mostly used for exfoliating cosmetic products, was visible to consumers during the online purchasing. The compliance with FDA and CIR Expert Panel standards was analyzed in the first 50 cosmetic products obtained after the conducted investigation on the Amazon.com e-commerce company website using the search term “AHA anti-aging.” It was found that exfoliating cosmetic products contained AHAs in a broad range of concentrations, from 2.5 up to 70%. Nineteen out of 50 products contained a concentration of AHAs greater than recommended. Twelve products did not contain any data at all regarding the concentration of AHAs. Sunburn alerts were present in 16 out of 50 analyzed product pages. In conclusion, more efforts should be made in providing users with information and the necessity of protection from potential complications after topical AHAs product treatments

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Chemical peeling with 35% glycolic acid for the treatment of disseminated facial verruca plana: a randomized, split-face, evaluator-blinded trial

Disseminated facial verruca plana is a chronic disorder that causes significant psychological distress. However, safe and effective treatment is lacking. This study aimed to explore the efficacy and safety of 35% glycolic acid for the treatment of disseminated facial verruca plana. A split-face clinical trial was conducted to explore the efficacy and safety of using chemical peeling with 35% glycolic acid for the treatment of disseminated facial verruca plana. One side of the face was applied with 35% GA once every fortnight for a total of three times. Adapalene gel was applied every night to the other side of the face as the control. The clearance rate of lesions was evaluated at different time points. Between June 2020 and December 2020, thirty patients with disseminated verruca plana who visited the Dermatology Hospital of Southern Medical University were enrolled. After three chemical peelings with 35% glycolic acid that was applied at 2-week intervals, 15(50%) patients achieved >70% lesion reduction. The same effective rate in the adapalene gel-treated side of the face was documented in eight patients. Subgroup analysis showed a higher clearance rate in patients with a shorter disease duration. Moreover, concurrent improvements in facial roughness were observed in the 35% glycolic acid-treated group. Adverse effects including mild erythema and desquamation were observed during chemical peeling with 35% glycolic acid. In conclusion, chemical peeling with 35% glycolic acid could be a safe and effective option for treating disseminated facial verruca plana, especially for those who desire skin improvement. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Insights from a Box-Behnken Optimization Study of Microemulsions with Salicylic Acid for Acne Therapy

The present study brings to attention a method to develop salicylic acid-based oil in water (O/W) microemulsions using a tensioactive system based on Tween 80, lecithin, and propylene glycol (PG), enriched with a vegetable oat oil phase and hyaluronic acid. The systems were physically characterized and the Quality by design approach was applied to optimize the attributes of microemulsions using Box–Behnken modeling, combined with response surface methodology. For this purpose, a 3³ fractional factorial design was selected. The effect of independent variables namely X1: Tween 80/PG (%), X2: Lecithin (%), X3: Oil phase (%) was analyzed considering their impact upon the internal structure and evaluated parameters chosen as dependent factors: viscosity, mean droplet size, and work of adhesion. A high viscosity, a low droplet size, an adequate wettability—with a reduced mechanical work—and clarity were considered as desirable for the optimal systems. It was found that the optimal microemulsion which complied with the established conditions was based on: Tween 80/PG 40%, lecithin 0.3%, oat oil 2%, salicylic acid 0.5%, hyaluronic acid 1%, and water 56.2%. The response surface methodology was considered an appropriate tool to explain the impact of formulation factors on the physical properties of microemulsions, offering a complex pattern in the assessment of stability and quality attributes for the optimized formulation.

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.