Biosurfactants for cosmetic applications

Potential anti-aging applications of microbial-derived surfactantsin cosmetic formulations

The skin aging process is a complex interaction of genetic, epigenetic, and environmental factors, such as chemical pollution and UV radiation. There is growing evidence that biosurfactants, especially those of microbial origin, have distinct age-supportive effects through different mechanisms, such as stimulation of fibroblast growth, high antioxidant capacities, and favorable anti-inflammatory properties. With a growing financial contribution of more than 15 m€per year, microbial surfactants (MSs) display unique biological effects on the skin including improved cell mobility, better nutrient access, and facilitated cellular growth under harsh conditions. Their biodegradable nature, unusual surface activity, good safety profile and tolerance to high temperature and pH variations widen their potential spectrum in biomedical and pharmaceutical applications. MSs typically have lower critical micelle concentration (CMC) levels than chemical surfactants enhancing their effectiveness. As natural surfactants, MSs are considered possible "green" alternatives to synthetic surfactants with better biodegradability, sustainability, and beneficial functional properties. This review therefore aims to explore the potential impacts of MSs as anti-aging ingredients.

Microbial Biosurfactants as Key Multifunctional Ingredients for Sustainable Cosmetics

A polar head and an apolar tail chemically characterize surfactants, they show different properties and are categorized by different factors such as head charge and molecular weight. They work by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases to facilitate the formation of one homogeneous mixture. In this respect, they represent unavoidable ingredients, their main application is in the production of detergents, one of if not the most important categories of cosmetics. Their role is very important, it should be remembered that it was precisely soaps and hygiene that defeated the main infectious diseases at the beginning of the last century. Due to their positive environmental impact, the potential uses of microbial sourced surfactants are actively investigated. These compounds are produced with different mechanisms by microorganisms in the aims to defend themselves from external threats, to improve the mobility in the environment, etc. In the cosmetic field, biosurfactants, restricted in the present work to those described above, can carry high advantages, in comparison to traditional surfactants, especially in the field of sustainable and safer approaches. Besiede this, costs still remain an obsatcle to their diffusion; in this regard, exploration of possible multifunctional actions could help to contain application costs. To highlight their features and possible multifunctional role, on the light of specific biological profiles yet underestimated, we have approached the present review work.

Effect of molecular structure of eco-friendly glycolipid biosurfactants on the adsorption of hair-care conditioning polymers

Pseudo-binary mixtures of different glycolipids, four different rhamnolipids (RL) and an alkyl polyglucoside (APG), with poly(diallyl-dimethylammonium chloride) (PDADMAC) have been studied in relation to their adsorption onto negatively charged surfaces to shed light on the impact of the molecular structure of surfactants from natural sources (instead of synthetic surfactant, such as sodium laureth sulfate) on the adsorption of hair-conditioning polymers. For this purpose, the self-assembly of such mixtures in aqueous solution and their adsorption onto negatively charged surfaces mimicking the negative charge of damaged hair fibres have been studied combining experiments and self-consistent field (SCF) calculations. The results show that the specific physico-chemical properties of the surfactants (charge, number of sugar rings present in surfactant structure and length of the hydrocarbon length) play a main role in the control of the adsorption process, with the adsorption efficiency and hydration being improved in relation to conventional sulfate-based systems for mixtures of PDADMAC and glycolipids with the shortest alkyl chains. SCF calculations and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectroscopy (EDS) analysis on real hair confirmed such observations. The results allow one to assume that the characteristic of the surfactants, especially rhamnolipids, conditions positively the adsorption potential of polyelectrolytes in these model systems. This study provides important insights on the mechanisms underlying the performance of more complex but eco-friendly washing formulations.

A novel microbial technique for producing high-quality sophorolipids from horse oil suitable for cosmetic applications

Horse oil contains linoleic, palmitoleic and unsaturated fatty acids that are similar to those in human skin, and may therefore be an ideal substance from which to isolate biosurfactants for cosmetic products to improve human skin quality. Herein, an innovative approach was developed to synthesise sophorolipids from horse oil by hydrolysis, followed by fermentation using the yeast Candida bombicola. The yield of sophorolipids from direct fermentation of horse oil and hydrolysed horse oil was 40.6 ± 1.3 g l^-1 and 58.4 ± 1.8 g l^-1 respectively. To further increase the yield, 30-40 g l^-1 glucose was added in a fed-batch fermentation process to maintain the pH between 4.0 and 4.5, resulting in a conversion yield of 71.7 ± 0.8 g l^-1 . The purity and structure of the synthesised sophorolipids were analysed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance. An in vitro human dermal fibroblast model was used as a surrogate for human skin to measure elastase inhibition activity. Antiwrinkle properties of isolated sophorolipids were better than those of horse oil or hydrolysed horse oil in several in vitro assays. Furthermore, no cytotoxicity was observed at a concentration of 50 μg ml^-1 , and wound-healing capacity was evident in a cell culture model. Additionally, the synthesised sophorolipids attenuated lipopolysaccharide-induced expression of inflammatory cytokines in macrophages, and efficiently inhibited several strains of bacteria and yeast. In conclusion, fed-batch fermentation of hydrolysed horse oil is a novel and efficient approach for producing high-quality and high-yield sophorolipids that exhibit great potential as cosmetic ingredients.

Untapped Resources: Biotechnological Potential of Peptides and Secondary Metabolites in Archaea

Archaea are an understudied domain of life often found in “extreme” environments in terms of temperature, salinity, and a range of other factors. Archaeal proteins, such as a wide range of enzymes, have adapted to function under these extreme conditions, providing biotechnology with interesting activities to exploit. In addition to producing structural and enzymatic proteins, archaea also produce a range of small peptide molecules (such as archaeocins) and other novel secondary metabolites such as those putatively involved in cell communication (acyl homoserine lactones), which can be exploited for biotechnological purposes. Due to the wide array of metabolites produced there is a great deal of biotechnological potential from antimicrobials such as diketopiperazines and archaeocins, as well as roles in the cosmetics and food industry. In this review we will discuss the diversity of small molecules, both peptide and nonpeptide, produced by archaea and their potential biotechnological applications.

Self-Organisation, Thermotropic and Lyotropic Properties of Glycolipids Related to their Biological Implications

Glycolipids are amphiphilic molecules which bear an oligo- or polysaccharide as hydrophilic head group and hydrocarbon chains in varying numbers and lengths as hydrophobic part. They play an important role in life science as well as in material science. Their biological and physiological functions are quite diverse, ranging from mediators of cell-cell recognition processes, constituents of membrane domains or as membrane-forming units. Glycolipids form an exceptional class of liquid-crystal mesophases due to the fact that their self-organisation obeys more complex rules as compared to classical monophilic liquid-crystals. Like other amphiphiles, the supra-molecular structures formed by glycolipids are driven by their chemical structure; however, the details of this process are still hardly understood. Based on the synthesis of specific glycolipids with a clearly defined chemical structure, e.g., type and length of the sugar head group, acyl chain linkage, substitution pattern, hydrocarbon chain lengths and saturation, combined with a profound physico-chemical characterisation of the formed mesophases, the principles of the organisation in different aggregate structures of the glycolipids can be obtained. The importance of the observed and formed phases and their properties are discussed with respect to their biological and physiological relevance. The presented data describe briefly the strategies used for the synthesis of the used glycolipids. The main focus, however, lies on the thermotropic as well as lyotropic characterisation of the self-organised structures and formed phases based on physico-chemical and biophysical methods linked to their potential biological implications and relevance.

Chemical structure, property and potential applications of biosurfactants produced by Bacillus subtilis in petroleum recovery and spill mitigation

Lipopeptides produced by microorganisms are one of the five major classes of biosurfactants known and they have received much attention from scientific and industrial communities due to their powerful interfacial and biological activities as well as environmentally friendly characteristics. Microbially produced lipopeptides are a series of chemical structural analogues of different families and, among them, 26 families covering about 90 lipopeptide compounds have been reported in the last two decades. This paper reviews the chemical structural characteristics and molecular behaviors of surfactin, one of the representative lipopeptides of the 26 families. In particular, two novel surfactin molecules isolated from cell-free cultures of Bacillus subtilis HSO121 are presented. Surfactins exhibit strong self-assembly ability to form sphere-like micelles and larger aggregates at very low concentrations. The amphipathic and surface properties of surfactins are related to the existence of the minor polar and major hydrophobic domains in the three 3-D conformations. In addition, the application potential of surfactin in bioremediation of oil spills and oil contaminants, and microbial enhanced oil recovery are discussed.

Bronsted acid-type biosurfactant for heterocyclization: a green protocol for benzopyran synthesis

Synthesis of benzopyran from the various salicylaldehydes and cyclic 1,3-diketones using catalytic amount of lemon extract as a green biosurfactant.

Aqueous extract of Balanites roxburghii fruit: a green dispersant for C–C bond formation

A natural dispersant exhibiting recyclable buffer property is obtained from aqueous extract ofBalanites roxburghiifruit and used as a highly efficient catalytic medium for C–C bond constructionviaKnoevenagel condensation and tandem Knoevenagel–Michael reaction.

Physicochemical characterization of natural-like branched-chain glycosides toward formation of hexosomes and vesicles

Synthetic branched-chain glycolipids have become of great interest in biomimicking research, since they provide a suitable alternative for natural glycolipids, which are difficult to extract from natural resources. Therefore, branched-chain glycolipids obtained by direct syntheses are of utmost interest. In this work, two new branched-chain glycolipids are presented, namely, 2-hexyldecyl β(α)-D-glucoside (2-HDG) and 2-hexyldecyl β(α)-D-maltoside (2-HDM) based on glucose and maltose, respectively. The self-assembly properties of these glycolipids have been studied, observing the phase behavior under thermotropic and lyotropic conditions. Due to their amphiphilic characteristics, 2-HDG and 2-HDM possess rich phase behavior in dry form and in aqueous dispersions. In the thermotropic study, 2-HDG formed a columnar hexagonal liquid crystalline phase, whereas in a binary aqueous system, 2-HDG formed an inverted hexagonal liquid crystalline phase in equilibrium with excess aqueous solution. Furthermore, aqueous dispersions of the hexagonal liquid crystal could be obtained, dispersions known as hexosomes. On the other hand, 2-HDM formed a lamellar liquid crystalline phase (smectic A) in thermotropic conditions, whereas multilamellar vesicles have been observed in equilibrium with aqueous media. Surprisingly, 2-HDM mixed with sodium dodecyl sulfate or aerosol OT induced the formation of more stable unilamellar vesicles. Thus, the branched-chain glycolipids 2-HDG and 2-HDM not only provided alternative nonionic surfactants with rich phase behavior and versatile nanostructures, but also could be used as new drug carrier systems in the future.

Characterization and emulsification properties of rhamnolipid and sophorolipid biosurfactants and their applications

Due to their non-toxic nature, biodegradability and production from renewable resources, research has shown an increasing interest in the use of biosurfactants in a wide variety of applications. This paper reviews the characterization of rhamnolipid and sophorolipid biosurfactants based on their hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity and their ability to form microemulsions with a range of oils without additives. The use of the biosurfactants in applications such as detergency and vegetable oil extraction for biodiesel application is also discussed. Rhamnolipid was found to be a hydrophilic surfactant while sophorolipid was found to be very hydrophobic. Therefore, rhamnolipid and sophorolipid biosurfactants in mixtures showed robust performance in these applications.

Lipopeptides in cosmetics

Lipopeptides are biosurfactants extensively used in cosmetics. The consumption of cosmetics containing lipopeptides is increasing as a result of the exceptional surface properties and diverse biological activities of lipopeptides which facilitate a vast number of applications not only in the pharmaceutics industry which includes cosmetics but also in the food industry. Cosmetics containing lipopeptides are available in various dosage forms according to their beneficial surface properties, which include anti-wrinkle and moisturizing activities and cleansing cosmetics. The microbial production of lipopeptides particularly those with biological and surface activities applicable to cosmetics are summarized based on appropriate studies and patents up to the year 2008 to manage the information and sufficiently review the data.

Natural surfactants used in cosmetics: glycolipids

Cosmetic surfactant performs detergency, wetting, emulsifying, solubilizing, dispersing and foaming effects. Adverse reactions of chemical synthesis surfactant have an effect on environment and humans, particularly severe in long term. Biodegradability, low toxicity and ecological acceptability which are the benefits of naturally derived surfactant that promises cosmetic safety are, therefore, highly on demand. Biosurfactant producible from microorganisms exhibiting potential surface properties suitable for cosmetic applications especially incorporate with their biological activities. Sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mannosylerythritol lipids are the most widely used glycolipids biosurfactant in cosmetics. Literatures and patents relevant to these three glycolipids reviewed were emphasizing on the cosmetic applications including personal care products presenting the cosmetic efficiency, efficacy and economy benefits of glycolipids biosurfactant.

Fed-batch bioreactor production of mannosylerythritol lipids secreted by Pseudozyma aphidis

Two strains of Pseudozyma aphidis, DSM 70725 and DSM 14930, were used for the bioreactor production of mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs). Foam formation interfered substantially with the cultivation process. Soybean oil was simultaneously employed as both carbon source and anti-foam agent. Primary MEL formation occurred after nitrate limitation. After a first short time-period of nitrate limitation and further nitrate addition, MELs were secreted in spite of nitrate excess. The sedimentation of MEL-enriched beads indicated enhanced product formation. Maximum yield, productivity and yield coefficient of 165 g l(-1), 13.9 g l(-1) day(-1) and 0.92 g g(-1) were achieved using strain DSM 14930 with additional substrate-feeding (glucose, sodium nitrate, yeast extract) and a foam-controlled soybean oil supply.

Biosurfactants: moving towards industrial application

Chemically synthesized surface-active compounds are widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, petroleum and food industries. However, with the advantages of biodegradability, and production on renewable-resource substrates, biosurfactants may eventually replace their chemically synthesized counterparts. So far, the use of biosurfactants has been limited to a few specialized applications because biosurfactants have been economically uncompetitive. There is a need to gain a greater understanding of the physiology, genetics and biochemistry of biosurfactant-producing strains, and to improve process technology to reduce production costs.