New cosmetic emulsions for dry skin

Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function-improving capabilities of ceramide-containing formulations: A qualitative review

A decrease in the ceramide content of the stratum corneum is known to cause dry and barrier-disrupted skin. In this literature review, the clinical usefulness of preparations containing natural or synthetic ceramides for water retention and barrier functions was evaluated. The PubMed, Cochrane Library, and Igaku Chuo Zasshi databases were searched using keywords such as "ceramide", "skincare products", "barrier + hydration + moisture + skin", and "randomized trial". All database searches were conducted in February 2019. Forty-one reports were selected based on the following criterion: comparative control studies that evaluated the effects of ceramide-containing formulations based on statistical evidence. Among the 41 reports, 12 were selected using the patient, intervention, comparison, and outcome approach. These 12 reports showed that external ceramide-containing preparations can improve dry skin and barrier function in patients with atopic dermatitis. However, a double-blinded comparative study with a large sample size is warranted for appropriate clinical use.

Safety and risk assessment of ceramide 3 in cosmetic products

Ceramide 3 is used mainly as a moisturizer in various cosmetic products. Although several safety studies on formulations containing pseudo-ceramide or ceramide have been conducted at the preclinical and clinical levels for regulatory approval, no studies have evaluated the systemic toxicity of ceramide 3. To address this issue, we conducted a risk assessment and comprehensive toxicological review of ceramide and pseudo-ceramide. We assumed that ceramide 3 is present in various personal and cosmetic products at concentrations of 0.5-10%. Based on previously reported exposure data, the margin of safety (MOS) was calculated for product type, use pattern, and ceramide 3 concentration. Lipsticks with up to 10% ceramide 3 (MOS = 4111) are considered safe, while shampoos containing 0.5% ceramide 3 (MOS = 148) are known to be safe. Reported MOS values for body lotion applied to the hands (1% ceramide 3) and back (5% ceramide 3) were 103 and 168, respectively. We anticipate that face cream would be safe up to a ceramide 3 concentration of 3% (MOS = 149). Collectively, the MOS approach indicated no safety concerns for cosmetic products containing less than 1% ceramide 3.

Breaking of the Bancroft rule for multiple emulsions stabilized by a single stimulable polymer

We investigated emulsions of water and toluene stabilized by (co)polymers consisting of styrene (S) and 2-(dimethylamino)ethyl methacrylate (DMAEMA) monomer units with different compositions and structures such as a PDMAEMA homopolymer, a P(S-co-DMAEMA) random copolymer and various PS-b-PDMAEMA and PS-b-(S-co-DMAEMA) block copolymers. The model system is used to study the fundamental conditions under which the different kinds of polymer-stabilized emulsions (direct oil in water, inverse water in oil and multiple emulsions) are stabilized or destabilized by pH change (at constant temperature). Polymer properties like chain conformation at the toluene-water interface as probed by SANS and neutron reflectivity at the liquid-liquid interface, the oil-water partitioning of the polymer chains (Bancroft's rule of thumb) as determined by UV spectroscopy and interfacial tensions measured by the rising and spinning drop techniques are determined. Overall, results evidence that the curvature sign, as defined by positive and negative values as the chain segments occupy preferentially the water and toluene sides of the interface respectively, reliably predicts the emulsion kind. In contrast, the Bancroft rule failed at foreseeing the emulsion type. In the region of near zero curvature the crossover from direct to inverse emulsions occurs through the formation of either unstable coexisting direct and inverse emulsions (i) or multiple emulsions (ii). The high compact adsorption of the chains at the interface as shown by low interfacial tension values does not allow to discriminate between both cases. However, the toluene-water partitioning of the polymeric emulsifier is still a key factor driving the formation of (i) or (ii) emulsions. Interestingly, the stabilization of the multiple emulsions can be tuned to a large extent as the toluene-water polymer partitioning can be adjusted using quite a large number of physico-chemical parameters linked to polymer architecture like diblock length ratio or polymer total molar mass, for example. Moreover, we show that monitoring the oil-water partitioning aspect of the emulsion system can also be used to lower the interfacial tension at low pH to values slightly higher than 0.01 mN m(-1), irrespective of the curvature sign.

Formation and stability of oil-in-water nanoemulsions containing rice bran oil: in vitro and in vivo assessments

BACKGROUND

Nanoemulsions have practical application in a multitude of commercial areas, such as the chemical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Cosmetic industries use rice bran oil in sunscreen formulations, anti ageing products and in treatments for skin diseases. The aim of this study was to create rice bran oil nanoemulsions using low energy emulsification methods and to evaluate their physical stability, irritation potential and moisturising activity on volunteers with normal and diseased skin types.

RESULTS

The nanoemulsion developed by this phase diagram method was composed of 10% rice bran oil, 10% surfactants sorbitan oleate/PEG-30 castor oil, 0.05% antioxidant and 0.50% preservatives formulated in distilled water. The nanoemulsion was stable over the time course of this study. In vitro assays showed that this formulation has a low irritation potential, and when applied to human skin during in vivo studies, the nanoemulsion improved the skin's moisture and maintained normal skin pH values.

CONCLUSION

The results of irritation potential studies and in vivo assessments indicate that this nanoemulsion has potential to be a useful tool to treat skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.