The Yellowing and Bleaching of Wool

Textile ageing due to atmospheric gases and particles in indoor cultural heritage

Textile fibre degradation can be due to many factors. The most common cause is light exposure, but upon the lifespan of a textile, many other environmental factors are to be taken into account. This study focuses on the role of atmospheric compounds-both particulate and gaseous species-on natural textiles ageing, more specifically cotton, silk and wool. To achieve this, reference samples of textiles were exposed to contrasted environments (marine, urban and semi-rural museums and historical buildings) for natural ageing. These conditions were also reproduced in an experimental chamber dedicated to the study of the impact of airborne pollutants on heritage materials. Experimental ageing allowed to highlight degradation mechanisms for each fibre: SO₂ and HCOOH cause the cleavage of cotton's glyosidic links and silk's peptide bonds, while NO₂ promotes the oxidation of the fibres. The most harmful pollutant towards cotton is NO₂ since it causes both its oxidation and hydrolysis. The case of wool is more complicated: HCOOH provokes peptide link cleavage (similarly to silk) but this fibre is less sensitive to SO₂ attacks than silk and even seems to be protected against future alterations after having been firstly exposed to this pollutant. In any case, this experimental study evidences that damages caused by gaseous pollutants are fostered by the presence of particles, regardless of the chemical composition of the particle coating.

Oxidative Modification of Trichocyte Keratins

Oxidation of keratin results in a range of deleterious effects, including discolouration and compromised physical and mechanical properties. Keratin oxidative degradation is driven by molecular-level events, with accumulation of modifications at the protein primary level resulting directly in changes to secondary, tertiary and quaternary structure, as well as eventually changes in the observable physical and chemical properties. Advances in proteomic analysis techniques provide an increasingly clearer insight into the cascade of molecular modification underpinning keratin oxidation and how this translates through to higher order changes in properties. This chapter summarises the effects of oxidation on keratin-based materials, the types of molecular modification associated with this, and advances in techniques and approaches for characterising this modification.

Proteomic characterisation of hydrothermal redox damage

BACKGROUND

Peptide and protein damage contributes to the loss of quality and value in protein-based food and textile products as well as to the degeneration of biological tissues such as hair and skin. The effects of elevated temperature on such substrates at the molecular level are, however, relatively unknown. This paper examines the response of peptides and proteins to hydrothermal damage using mass spectrometry and reports the location of molecular markers of hydrothermal damage within wool proteins.

RESULTS

The hydrothermal exposure of model peptides containing the oxidatively sensitive residues tryptophan and tyrosine revealed the formation of a number of products such as hydroxytryptophan and dihydrophenylalanine. A variety of degradation products were also observed in intermediate filament proteins, including products arising from deamidation and from oxidation of histidine, tyrosine and tryptophan residues.

CONCLUSION

The products observed to form during hydrothermal exposure indicated the involvement of reactive oxygen species. Molecular markers were identified within a proteinaceous system to allow the evaluation of damage type or severity. These findings have important implications for the thermal processing of foods and textiles.

The photoyellowing of stilbene-derived fluorescent whitening agents--mass spectrometric characterization of yellow photoproducts

The application of fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) significantly accelerates the photoyellowing of wool and silk under exposure to the ultraviolet and visible components of sunlight <500 nm. The photochemistry involved in this process is poorly understood, particularly the role of photoproducts derived directly from the FWA itself. Hydroxylation was identified as the key initial mechanism of photodegradation leading to coloration of the solution in the irradiation of the stilbene-derived FWA 4,4'-bis(2-sulfostyryl)biphenyl (DSBP) in the presence of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Polyhydroxylated DSBP derivatives were implicated as critical intermediates in the formation of yellow photoproducts under these conditions. The formation of trace quantities of DSBP quinone derivatives subsequent to hydroxylation was identified as the key cause of DSBP photoyellowing. These results are the first successful characterization of yellow photoproducts resulting directly from irradiation of a stilbene-based FWA. Formation of these yellow stilbene-based FWA-derived photoproducts may occur on the surface of FWA-treated wool exposed to simulated sunlight, as previous work has shown that H2O2 is photogenerated when wet FWA-treated wool is exposed to light. These results therefore suggest that yellow FWA-derived photoproducts contribute to the accelerated photoyellowing of FWA-treated wool.

Characterisation of photo-oxidation products within photoyellowed wool proteins: tryptophan and tyrosine derived chromophores

Understanding the photodegradation of complex protein systems represents a significant goal in protein science. The photo-oxidation and resultant photoyellowing of wool in sunlight is a severe impediment to its marketability. However, although some photomodifications have been found in irradiated model amino acid systems, direct identification of the chromophoric photoproducts responsible for photoyellowing in irradiated wool itself has proved elusive. We here describe the direct characterisation and location of yellow chromophores and related photomodifications within the proteins of photoyellowed wool fabric, utilising a quasi-proteomic approach. In total, eight distinct photoproducts were characterised. Of these, five were derived from tryptophan; namely hydroxytryptophan, N-formylkynurenine, kynurenine, residues consistent with the dehydration of kynurenine, and hydroxykynurenine, while three were derived from tyrosine; namely dihydroxyphenylalanine, dityrosine, and a cross-linked residue consistent with a hydroxylated dityrosine residue. Fourteen modified peptide sequences were identified and the positions of modification for thirteen of these were located within the primary structure of known wool proteins. The nature of the photoproducts characterised offer valuable insight into the reaction pathways followed in the UV-induced photoyellowing of wool proteins.

Determination of Photo-oxidation Products Within Photoyellowed Bleached Wool Proteins

Photo-oxidative processes occurring in wool can lead to significant photoyellowing of the fiber. In particular, wool that has been chemically bleached photoyellows more rapidly and to a greater degree than untreated wool. Direct identification of the chromophores responsible for such yellow discoloration in irradiated wool has proven to be elusive for many years. This article describes the characterization and location of yellow photo-oxidation products within the proteins of photoyellowed bleached wool fabric, using advanced protein chemistry techniques. The discolored fabric was enzymatically digested and chromatographed by high-pressure liquid chromatography, with monitoring at 400 nm, to select out fractions containing yellow chromophoric species. Thorough tandem mass spectrometric analysis was then used to sequence peptides and, in turn, to characterize modifications to key amino acid residues that had resulted in yellow chromophore formation. In total, 11 separate yellow chromophoric species were identified, ten derived from tryptophan residues and one from tyrosine. The tryptophan-derived modifications characterized included hydroxytryptophan, N-formylkynurenine, hydroxyformylkynurenine, kynurenine, hydroxykynurenine, carbolines, tryptophandiones and nitrotryptophan. The tyrosine-derived modification of tyrosine to dopa was also identified. The range of photomodifications we observed provides insight into the photo-oxidation pathways occurring within irradiated fibrous proteins leading to the formation of yellow chromophores.