Comparative Study on Epidermal Moisturizing Effects and Hydration Mechanisms of Rice-Derived Glucosylceramides and Ceramides

Ceramide (Cer) plays an important role in skin barrier functions in the stratum corneum (SC). The ingestion of food-derived glucosylceramides (GlcCer) attenuates transepidermal water loss (TEWL). However, the moisturizing effects of single molecules of GlcCer and Cer remain unclear. Therefore, we herein purified 13 GlcCer and 6 Cer, including elasticamide, which has the same structure as human Cer[AP], from rice and compared their epidermal moisturizing effects in a reconstructed human epidermal keratinization model. The results obtained showed that 10 µM of 5 GlcCer[d18:2] with a 4E,8Z sphingadienine and C18 to C26 fatty acids and 10 µg/mL of 3 Cer with C23 or C24 fatty acids significantly reduced TEWL. The moisturizing effects of these GlcCer were dependent on the length of fatty acids. Furthermore, 10 µg/mL of elasticamide increased the SC Cer contents by promoting the expression of GlcCer synthase. Electron microscopic observations revealed that 1 µM of GlcCer[d18:2(4E,8Z)/26:0] increased the number of keratohyalin granules and desmosomes. Immunostaining and Western blotting indicated that 1 µM of GlcCer[d18:2(4E,8Z)/26:0] up-regulated the expression of filaggrin and corneodesmosin, which contribute to epidermal hydration. This comparative study on epidermal moisturization by GlcCer and Cer isolated from rice revealed differences in their hydration mechanisms.

Bioassay-Guided Characterization, Antioxidant, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Pueraria thunbergiana L. Leaf Extracts in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (HaCaT) Cells

Although the roots and flowers of P. thunbergiana are known to have various physiologically active effects, studies on the anti-melanin production and anti-photoaging effects of its leaf extracts and cellular mechanisms are still lacking. In this study, we evaluated the possibility of using Pueraria thunbergiana leaves as a natural material for skin whitening and anti-aging-related functional cosmetics. The 30% ethyl alcohol (EtOH) extract from P. thunbergiana leaves was fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol, and aqueous solution to measure their whitening, and anti-aging effects. The EtOAc fraction contained a high content of phenolic and flavonoids and showed higher 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) radical scavenging activities than the other fractions. It was also confirmed that the EtOAc fraction markedly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In addition, the EtOAc fraction showed a protective effect against ultraviolet B (UVB) in HaCaT cells and increased the collagen synthesis that was decreased due to UVB exposure. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity and MMP-1 protein expression were reduced in human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. These results indicate that the EtOAc fraction has superior antioxidant activity, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-photoaging effects compared to the other fractions. Therefore, in this study, we confirmed the potential of P. thunbergiana leaf extract as a functional cosmetic ingredient, and it can be used as basic data for the physiological activity of P. thunbergiana leaf extracts.