Brassica rapa hairy root extracts promote skin depigmentation by modulating melanin production and distribution

The Untapped Potential of Hairy Root Cultures and Their Multiple Applications

Plants are rich sources of specialized metabolites, such as alkaloids, terpenes, phenolic acids, flavonoids, coumarins, and volatile oils, which provide various health benefits including anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antiaging, skin-altering, and anti-diabetic properties. However, challenges such as low and inconsistent yields, environment and geographic factors, and species-specific production of some specialized metabolites limit the supply of raw plant material for the food, cosmetic, or pharmaceutical industries. Therefore, biotechnological approaches using plant in vitro systems offer an appealing alternative for the production of biologically active metabolites. Among these, hairy root cultures induced by Rhizobium rhizogenes have firmed up their position as "green cell factories" due to their genotypic and biosynthetic stability. Hairy roots are valuable platforms for producing high-value phytomolecules at a low cost, are amenable to pathway engineering, and can be scaled up in bioreactors, making them attractive for commercialization. This review explores the potential of hairy roots for specialized metabolites biosynthesis focusing on biotechnology tools to enhance their production. Aspects of morphological peculiarities of hairy roots, the diversity of bioreactors design, and process intensification technologies for maximizing biosynthetic capacity, as well as examples of patented plant-derived (green-labeled) products produced through hairy root cultivation at lab and industrial scales, are addressed and discussed.

Biotechnological Approaches to Producing Natural Antioxidants: Anti-Ageing and Skin Longevity Prospects

Plants are the main source of bioactive compounds that can be used for the formulation of cosmetic products. Plant extracts have numerous proven health benefits, among which are anti-ageing and skin-care properties. However, with the increased demand for plant-derived cosmetic products, there is a crucial prerequisite for establishing alternative approaches to conventional methods to ensure sufficient biomass for sustainable production. Plant tissue culture techniques, such as in vitro root cultures, micropropagation, or callogenesis, offer the possibility to produce considerable amounts of bioactive compounds independent of external factors that may influence their production. This production can also be significantly increased with the implementation of other biotechnological approaches such as elicitation, metabolic engineering, precursor and/or nutrient feeding, immobilization, and permeabilization. This work aimed to evaluate the potential of biotechnological tools for producing bioactive compounds, with a focus on bioactive compounds with anti-ageing properties, which can be used for the development of green-label cosmeceutical products. In addition, some examples demonstrating the use of plant tissue culture techniques to produce high-value bioactive ingredients for cosmeceutical applications are also addressed, showing the importance of these tools and approaches for the sustainable production of plant-derived cosmetic products.

Urea-extracted sericin is potentially better than kojic acid in the inhibition of melanogenesis through increased reactive oxygen species generation

Background

Hyperpigmentation is a skin disorder, which is caused by an excess production of melanin. The reduction in melanin content without causing undesirable effects is required for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Sericin is increasingly used as a hyperpigmentation treatment because of its antityrosinase activity. However, the various methods of sericin extraction have an effect on the composition and biological properties. The purpose of this study was to investigate the antioxidant and anti-melanogenic properties of sericin using different extraction methods including acid, base, heat, and urea extraction.

Methods

The chemical properties of extracted sericin were assessed in terms of amino acid components, thermal behavior, and UV–vis absorption. The inhibitory effects of sericin on melanogenesis were explored by determining the melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells.

Results

Sericin from urea extraction provided different properties when compared with the other extraction methods. Our results indicate that urea-extracted sericin reduced the melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity more effectively than the other extraction methods. Interestingly, the potential anti-melanogenic activity was more effective than kojic acid, a depigmenting agent used to treat hyperpigmentation. Moreover, treatment of urea-extracted sericin induced reactive oxygen species and subsequently activated antioxidant activity in B16F0 cells.

Conclusions

Our results present the potential inhibitory effect of urea-extracted sericin on melanogenesis. The therapeutic potential of urea-extracted sericin can be used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and its complications.

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The anti-melanogenic effect of urea-extracted sericin was significantly better than kojic acid.

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Urea-extracted sericin suppressed melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity through the induction of ROS.

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Urea-extracted sericin activated the expression of Nrf2 and its downstream target genes for modulation of melanogenesis.

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Urea-extracted sericin could be considered as an effective anti-melanogenic agent.

Microwave Hydrodiffusion and Gravity (MHG) Extraction from Different Raw Materials with Cosmetic Applications

Microwave hydrodiffusion and gravity (MHG) and ethanolic solid-liquid extraction were compared using selected plant sources. Their bioactive profile, color features, and proximate chemical characterization were determined. MHG extracts, commercial antioxidants, and three distinct types of thermal spring water were used in a sunscreen cream formulation. Their bioactive capacity, chemical and rheological properties were evaluated. MHG Cytisus scoparius flower extract provided the highest bioactive properties. Pleurotus ostreatus MHG liquor exhibited the highest total solid extraction yield. The Brassica rapa MHG sample stood out for its total protein content and its monosaccharide and oligosaccharide concentration. Quercus robur acorns divided into quarters supplied MHG extract with the lowest energy requirements, highest DPPH inhibition percentage, total lipid content and the highest enzyme inhibition. The chemical and bioactive capacities stability of the sunscreen creams elaborated with the selected MHG extracts and the thermal spring waters showed a similar behavior than the samples containing commercial antioxidants.

Plant and Microalgae Derived Peptides Are Advantageously Employed as Bioactive Compounds in Cosmetics

Bioactive peptides (BP) are specific protein fragments that are physiologically important for most living organisms. It is proven that in humans they are involved in a wide range of therapeutic activities as antihypertensive, antioxidant, anti-tumoral, anti-proliferative, hypocholesterolemic, and anti-inflammatory. In plants, BP are involved in the defense response, as well as in the cellular signaling and the development regulation. Most of the peptides used as ingredients in health-promoting foods, dietary supplements, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical preparations are obtained by chemical synthesis or by partial digestion of animal proteins. This makes them not fully accepted by the consumers because of the risks associated with solvent contamination or the use of animal derived substances. On the other hand, plant and microalgae derived peptides are known to be selective, effective, safe, and well tolerated once consumed, thus they have got a great potential for use in functional foods, drugs, and cosmetic products. In fact, the interest in the plant and microalgae derived BP is rapidly increasing and in this review, we highlight and discuss the current knowledge about their studies and applications in the cosmetic field.

Phytochemical screening and antityrosinase activity of carvacrol, thymoquinone, and four essential oils of Lebanese plants

OBJECTIVE

In our study, we aim to explore the ability of four essential oils (EO) of Lebanese plants to inhibit the tyrosinase activity and to correlate their efficiency level to their phytochemical compositions.

METHODS

The EO have been extracted by hydrodistillation using a Clevenger apparatus and have been studied by GC-MS analysis. Active compounds of Origanum species were identified and antityrosinase activities of EO and active molecules (carvacrol and thymoquinone) have been tested in tubo.

RESULTS

Antityrosinase activities were obtained as follows: EO of Origanum syriacum (80.41% ± 2.00%), EO of Origanum ehrenbergii (45.33% ± 2.20%), EO of Salvia fruticosa (14.62% ± 2.30%), EO of Calamintha origanifolia (16.51% ± 5.80%), Carvacrol (56.55% ± 3.10%), and Thymoquinone (19.49% ± 1.50%).

CONCLUSION

Origanum essential oils resulted in the highest antityrosinase activity due to their high content in carvacrol. However, when present together with carvacrol, thymoquinone decreases the efficiency of carvacrol, which is the case of O. ehrenbergii essential oil. Thus, for improved antityrosinase activity, O. syriacum and O. ehrenbergii should be harvested during flowering stage where carvacrol is present at its highest dosage and thymoquinone at its lowest.